Samd
10 MW
Looking good!
DH dual motor = LR mid drive + Grin all-axle front hub
- Thread starter John Bozi
- Start date
izeman
1 GW
I hope those were empty batteries in that video. I would never ever let those bare connectors dangle around like that with only the slightest chance to touch each other. 
. I always do one wire after the other and isolate the other side while doing so.
But the method of removing the plug by heating it is great. I just cut them off and have 20 of those red housings with bullets in it. *ggg*
. I always do one wire after the other and isolate the other side while doing so. But the method of removing the plug by heating it is great. I just cut them off and have 20 of those red housings with bullets in it. *ggg*
John Bozi
100 kW
Izeman I'll be honest I tried what that guy was doing in the vid but for the life of me I could remove the housing from the bullets.
I wasn't using hk lipos just some ebay presoldered wires into bullets...... and yes that video I was freaking out just watching the guy...
Anyway apart from renovations and family stuff I find a tiny space to work on my battery....
Have roughly finished the design on one side.
[youtube]s7BrpkBA3y4[/youtube]
[youtube]oxSFPIM2yfA[/youtube]
I wasn't using hk lipos just some ebay presoldered wires into bullets...... and yes that video I was freaking out just watching the guy...
Anyway apart from renovations and family stuff I find a tiny space to work on my battery....
Have roughly finished the design on one side.
[youtube]s7BrpkBA3y4[/youtube]
[youtube]oxSFPIM2yfA[/youtube]
Pretty cool! Not sure if I seen anyone do this before. How durable is this stuff? I know bouncing on the trails will test durability of this stuff. Or you adding extra support? Could use this stuff also to creatively mount a controller.
r3volved
100 kW
Great idea bro!
How much did that stuff cost you?
Edit: Ah nm I see your other posts...
How much have you used so far for that one side?
How much did that stuff cost you?
Edit: Ah nm I see your other posts...
How much have you used so far for that one side?
John Bozi
100 kW
There is a post on ES where everyone is quite negative toward the material because of its durability and weight and temperature characteristics.
That's why there isn't anyone using it for battery boxes.
To be honest it started feeling heavy so I started removing areas and will continue to do so with more time. I want to keep the over all weight around 1kg, so about $30 au.
At the moment on that side there's about 350g.
ALu is too hard to bend and weld and $ (if I paid someone) complex shapes
The other plastics are way to hard to weld together, I have tried, and now think plastic welding is too hard for anything unless thick. They are dam expensive like $250 for a big sheet that I would need to make things properly with. All the glues I have tried aren't that great and are expensive too.
This stuff is really easy to remelt and reshape and add bits to. It basically turns to glue.
I am testing a piece in the sun on my current bike which I basically wrapped a strip around a motorcycle pulley tensioner to make it guide better for a bicycle chain. It solved my recent chain drop problem. It's great for prototyping because you can get any shape product to test things. I just melt the strip while I had power on so that the chain would push and mold it a bit too. Will see how it holds up to continuous chain rub and sun and radiant heat from the bitumen and motor.
The other option if I notice that it is drooping or losing shape is to use it as a mould for fiber glass / carbon epoxy box.
I still have lots more tests to do such as how it bonds to other plastic like PVC and also to fabrics. The bit that was hot enough I tested on one corner of the battery box bonded like glue, dam hard to get off. But heating the battery is not the way to go obviously.
its actually called polycaprolactone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone
EDIT
Did a test against fabric and it stuck pretty well while hot but was relatively easy to peel off when room temp. So it would work to bond fabric down for non structural elements, but nothing more.
That's why there isn't anyone using it for battery boxes.
To be honest it started feeling heavy so I started removing areas and will continue to do so with more time. I want to keep the over all weight around 1kg, so about $30 au.
At the moment on that side there's about 350g.
ALu is too hard to bend and weld and $ (if I paid someone) complex shapes
The other plastics are way to hard to weld together, I have tried, and now think plastic welding is too hard for anything unless thick. They are dam expensive like $250 for a big sheet that I would need to make things properly with. All the glues I have tried aren't that great and are expensive too.
This stuff is really easy to remelt and reshape and add bits to. It basically turns to glue.
I am testing a piece in the sun on my current bike which I basically wrapped a strip around a motorcycle pulley tensioner to make it guide better for a bicycle chain. It solved my recent chain drop problem. It's great for prototyping because you can get any shape product to test things. I just melt the strip while I had power on so that the chain would push and mold it a bit too. Will see how it holds up to continuous chain rub and sun and radiant heat from the bitumen and motor.
The other option if I notice that it is drooping or losing shape is to use it as a mould for fiber glass / carbon epoxy box.
I still have lots more tests to do such as how it bonds to other plastic like PVC and also to fabrics. The bit that was hot enough I tested on one corner of the battery box bonded like glue, dam hard to get off. But heating the battery is not the way to go obviously.
its actually called polycaprolactone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone
EDIT
Did a test against fabric and it stuck pretty well while hot but was relatively easy to peel off when room temp. So it would work to bond fabric down for non structural elements, but nothing more.
John Bozi
100 kW
drew12345 said:
Definately not use near anything like a motor or controller. I will be monitoring my wiring for heat too. Obviously if anything gets near 60 C this thing melts.
If batteries get hot they are both damaged from usage and will melt the structure, which in the case of a fire would actually be a good thing if everything falls to the concrete.
John Bozi
100 kW
Should have it in a month.
The to do list:
I will have to put a torque brace = bit angle alu, fixed this chain retension device hole.
Similar to this:
I've been playing a waiting game on the HV satiator release. I am not sure how long I will wait until I just buy a 20s charger from greentime....
I have an old crystalyte half twist can't remember how well it worked or if only changed it out because I wanted one with a regen button on my dual motor bike. so I still might need to buy a new one.
My battery box is about 70% complete, just can't work on it when I want to because of the noisy air gun required to remelt parts, but it's getting there.
Still can't decide on colour of cover to protect from the sun. Red to match bike (not my fav) White to reflect the most heat or Camo to downplay its existence in the environment where I will mostly ride.
EDIT 28/10
Thinking of buying 3 of the lightest of these, no idea how well this will bond with polymorph.
Been thinking of even spraying a thin coat on the controller to downplay how bright it is. NOt sure how much it would heat more due to the paint though. I do know it will be under its full potential so it might be better than making a fabric bag for it.
The to do list:
I will have to put a torque brace = bit angle alu, fixed this chain retension device hole.
I've been playing a waiting game on the HV satiator release. I am not sure how long I will wait until I just buy a 20s charger from greentime....
I have an old crystalyte half twist can't remember how well it worked or if only changed it out because I wanted one with a regen button on my dual motor bike. so I still might need to buy a new one.
My battery box is about 70% complete, just can't work on it when I want to because of the noisy air gun required to remelt parts, but it's getting there.
Still can't decide on colour of cover to protect from the sun. Red to match bike (not my fav) White to reflect the most heat or Camo to downplay its existence in the environment where I will mostly ride.
EDIT 28/10
Thinking of buying 3 of the lightest of these, no idea how well this will bond with polymorph.
Been thinking of even spraying a thin coat on the controller to downplay how bright it is. NOt sure how much it would heat more due to the paint though. I do know it will be under its full potential so it might be better than making a fabric bag for it.
cheekybloke
1 kW
John Bozi said:Should have it in a month.
The to do list:
I will have to put a torque brace = bit angle alu, fixed this chain retension device hole.
Similar to this:
Not sure you will be able to tighten up your torque brace if you put it there.
Also not sure the angle is enough to take out the twist.
try using the front shock mount with some mini hiem joints and threaded bar.
Darren
John Bozi
100 kW
cheekybloke said:
Darren this is my biggest fear at the moment with the choice of this bike I didnt really pay attention to the need for the torque brace.
Mike said the shock mount would function more as a pivot.,,,
So now I wonder whether I should do both.
I took a look at Heim on wikipedia, looks like an awesome invention but probably rather heavy and do I really need a bearing in there? Interestingly off topic designed by germans wwII for their air craft....
cheekybloke
1 kW
They make really tiny joints with the same dia hole as your shock bolt.
I did think the adjustable bar would enable you to tighten it really well .
What about the top shock linkage with a custom bolt in it? that looks in the right place.
Stick with it mate its nearly there .
Darren
its not a bearing its a floating olive type thing that means the 2 items do not need to be parralel.
I did think the adjustable bar would enable you to tighten it really well .
What about the top shock linkage with a custom bolt in it? that looks in the right place.
Stick with it mate its nearly there .
Darren
its not a bearing its a floating olive type thing that means the 2 items do not need to be parralel.
John Bozi
100 kW
Thanks for the input that Heim feature is a great tip.
I think for now I will try just going with the initial idea and see it handles, hopefully there is no irreversable damage to something, and I can then add the top shock point too..
I think for now I will try just going with the initial idea and see it handles, hopefully there is no irreversable damage to something, and I can then add the top shock point too..
John Bozi
100 kW
My kit is ready for shipping, Mike confirmed this is mine. 
I just think he has the wrong chain ring on it, as I want to fit a 32t on there. That one looks like 44t or more.
I just think he has the wrong chain ring on it, as I want to fit a 32t on there. That one looks like 44t or more.
r3volved
100 kW
ya buddy! splendid
IanM
100 W
Looks awesome John, can't wait to see that baby on your bike. Should be a blast to ride.
John Bozi
100 kW
Thanks for sharing my excitement...
Since it has been posted I can't wait any longer for the HV Satiator to come out, dam shame, because I was happy to pay the top price for the ability to charge to what ever level and not worry...
I got tired of checking that thread and looking around all the sites with shit house English, so stuck to Greentime.
He has two 84v chargers:
4A and 5-6A
The difference in price with shipping is about $60 AU! so decided to start saving some bucks and get the 4A. 99% of the time I am never in a rush to have a recharge so this will have to do and might as well get the cheapest I can find since maybe I will still fork out for a different one in future.....
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20S-72V-84V-CV-4amp-Li-ion-LiPoly-Battery-Charger-Aluminum-Casing-Electric-Bicycle-Charger/313864_32220754257.html
I have never balanced charged since I started bulk charging! Dam I wasted lots of money on 3 rc balance chargers and 2 power supplies after one started slowing.........
Will have to watch my charging more, I am thinking of getting a timer alarm to set to remind me to keep checking on the bike..... Unless someone knows of a voltage alarm that can be put in line with the charger some how?
EDIT 3/11
Just paid $1.80 aud for a timer alarm, to make sure I don't forget to check the charger. No I don't have a smart phone
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262076345431
Since it has been posted I can't wait any longer for the HV Satiator to come out, dam shame, because I was happy to pay the top price for the ability to charge to what ever level and not worry...
I got tired of checking that thread and looking around all the sites with shit house English, so stuck to Greentime.
He has two 84v chargers:
4A and 5-6A
The difference in price with shipping is about $60 AU! so decided to start saving some bucks and get the 4A. 99% of the time I am never in a rush to have a recharge so this will have to do and might as well get the cheapest I can find since maybe I will still fork out for a different one in future.....
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20S-72V-84V-CV-4amp-Li-ion-LiPoly-Battery-Charger-Aluminum-Casing-Electric-Bicycle-Charger/313864_32220754257.html
I have never balanced charged since I started bulk charging! Dam I wasted lots of money on 3 rc balance chargers and 2 power supplies after one started slowing.........
Will have to watch my charging more, I am thinking of getting a timer alarm to set to remind me to keep checking on the bike..... Unless someone knows of a voltage alarm that can be put in line with the charger some how?
EDIT 3/11
Just paid $1.80 aud for a timer alarm, to make sure I don't forget to check the charger. No I don't have a smart phone
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262076345431
Attachments
John Bozi
100 kW
so in all the excitement of being ready to ship, I forgot to get the deep socket ISIS tool added to my order.....
[youtube]TenswCNzuNM[/youtube]
[youtube]TenswCNzuNM[/youtube]
Almost there! Looks like it's going to be pretty sweet ride.
Same thing almost happened to me about isis socket. Jim at ATF never mentioned it. I just saw it available on his site so asked about it. It seems like this should be required in bold to buy it. How else can you install without it.
Anyway, so how long before you finish?
Same thing almost happened to me about isis socket. Jim at ATF never mentioned it. I just saw it available on his site so asked about it. It seems like this should be required in bold to buy it. How else can you install without it.
Anyway, so how long before you finish?
John Bozi
100 kW
Yeah it got lost in an order list that changed later on... I think half of me was blown away that the kits changed to almost complete and kind mentally blocked out any tools...
Now that it's mostly in position I have been keen to get everything wired up......... BUT ran into an unforseen issue.
Phase wires connections are done on both controller and motor end, and the halls thank god had a matching plug for the greentime! wow lucky.
So next step was to get all the wiring headed up to the handle bars BUT.................
All my plans were some how based on that HK silicon wire that just dangles around with no flex issues........
THE PHASE WIRES ON THE LR ARE STIFF and also they in a sheath together with the halls that makes the whole thing super stiff at what its meant for excellent........
So now I am predicting that constantly bending backward and forward over time (even if I could ride it annoyingly stiff affecting steering and possible snagging..........)
eventually I guess these would snap.......
so yeah I mentioned how it might actually fit under but after putting in there its way to tight, and incredibly messy to get to ............
I see I have three options left.
in order of what I prefer the most first.
1. 1 put the contoller ontop of the bike, it's exactly the same length but thinner than the battery. - downside heat on the low temperature thermo plastic is a massive issue I wasn't dreaming of. Now with pedals its hard to get on the bike and get an idea of that extra bit higher between the legs. All my lengths would be wrong............ need to shorten or add more tangle.
2. buy and wait for a smaller more suitable controller and f off all the work I have done and increase my costs.
3. Go ahead as originally planned and wait for broken wires or maybe they are more flexible (but I highly doubt it).
EDIT maybe I am being a stress pot? Maybe if pull them out of their sheath they will be no much different to shifter wires..... But dam shifter wires got huge bows in them to do their thing - this would be like spaghetti exposed on a grand scale.
Now that it's mostly in position I have been keen to get everything wired up......... BUT ran into an unforseen issue.
Phase wires connections are done on both controller and motor end, and the halls thank god had a matching plug for the greentime! wow lucky.
So next step was to get all the wiring headed up to the handle bars BUT.................
All my plans were some how based on that HK silicon wire that just dangles around with no flex issues........
THE PHASE WIRES ON THE LR ARE STIFF and also they in a sheath together with the halls that makes the whole thing super stiff at what its meant for excellent........
So now I am predicting that constantly bending backward and forward over time (even if I could ride it annoyingly stiff affecting steering and possible snagging..........)
eventually I guess these would snap.......
so yeah I mentioned how it might actually fit under but after putting in there its way to tight, and incredibly messy to get to ............
I see I have three options left.
in order of what I prefer the most first.
1. 1 put the contoller ontop of the bike, it's exactly the same length but thinner than the battery. - downside heat on the low temperature thermo plastic is a massive issue I wasn't dreaming of. Now with pedals its hard to get on the bike and get an idea of that extra bit higher between the legs. All my lengths would be wrong............ need to shorten or add more tangle.
2. buy and wait for a smaller more suitable controller and f off all the work I have done and increase my costs.
3. Go ahead as originally planned and wait for broken wires or maybe they are more flexible (but I highly doubt it).
EDIT maybe I am being a stress pot? Maybe if pull them out of their sheath they will be no much different to shifter wires..... But dam shifter wires got huge bows in them to do their thing - this would be like spaghetti exposed on a grand scale.
pendragon8000
100 kW
a coldy.. or 10 or 20 LOL
John Bozi
100 kW
Yes thought about choice 4 - just need to put soft silicon from the stem to the controlller.... There's another couple issues as well,
one is the badge on headtube has sharp thin alu like a knife hook - not sure if I want file that down, will look shit if I ever move the controller, I could polymorph over the edges........
and the other issue is running the wiring through the dual crown forks I don't trust the rubber twistable stops and they are a touch to thin as the sheath stands now, so I might cut out the wiring and make flatter set of wires instead of being round
I will can solve these issues with polymorph too..... I can't say enough how invaluable this stuff is.
after a few more beers... thanks house mate shouted me some vodka and now 6am hangover.....
Thanks guys
ps the bike is fn heavy and it looks like a red version of the hulk.
EDIT
Found a bb tool in Australia that I just ordered, so should be aiming to get on the bike next weekend.
Wrenches are a pain but I got no time to wait from overseas
https://www.bikebug.com/pedros-bottom-bracket-wrench-shimano-8-notch-p-46826.html
John Bozi
100 kW
You know I have done enough with ebikes to know that you should not expect anything to take the time you expect or be as easy as it should be.
I learnt from my last build if I said to my mate I just need to change this little thing it could escalate into weeks.
Every turn I take I seem to run into more on this build.
A big reason I could justify the big spend on the big block kit was that it was my dream set up. It is slowly making me less happy every time I go to work on it.
My intention was set in stone to make this 32t the smallest safest gear possible to suit my terrain and yet I got 40 something + somehow, side shifted for whatever reason, and the more I look into how easy it is to just change your chainring the more I feel I have been mislead.
The stock chainring nuts are like butter in the words of the few "vet mechanic monkeys that I have begged to help me."
This gear change is only possible by grinding off whatever weak metal was there and ordering more of the custom length parts to be used only once per chainring change from the same vendor it may seem.
I started off enthusiastic and try to keep it going and keeping positive but the feeling of being let down keeps creeping in. At almost $2000 Australian dollars which is earnt probably the same $2000 US I was hoping that with the ES community behind the venture that this would be my DREAM FINAL BUILD TO FINISH OFF ALL BUILDS WITHOUT HAVING TO TEAR MY HAIR OUT.
However, I let my guard down to the reality of the world.
I told my dad (a mechanic of 40 years+) who has helped me in his 70's through my last through builds that this cost $1k. He said the quality of the chainring system I presented to him was poor...
There is clearly wobble in the freewheel too, which I didn't bother to mention as I am trying to stay focussed that it is not an issue.
I hope still that everything will work out well...
On the same front as the kit I have another with the controller. Having bought it and then not using right away I lost my chance on greentime's sales platform to give him as many negative stars as he deserves for the poorest explanations for a product he sells.
I have been waiting 5 days with no reply for a simple question of how to get the function of an on off switch on a product that cost me almost $200.
What the hell is happening?
I pledge to ES and the community that we must share everything even if vendors will do what they will. I get the feeling that we should be quiet about poor products for the sake for face with the big guys sometimes.
Oh funny my pedal wrench arrived just as I am writing, but it is useless.
Anyway just when I thought my kit was not what I wanted but wanted to ride it I thought just put it all together as it is and give it a ride.
NOPE
The cranks do not clear the kit.
Your sincerely
Fd truly
I learnt from my last build if I said to my mate I just need to change this little thing it could escalate into weeks.
Every turn I take I seem to run into more on this build.
A big reason I could justify the big spend on the big block kit was that it was my dream set up. It is slowly making me less happy every time I go to work on it.
My intention was set in stone to make this 32t the smallest safest gear possible to suit my terrain and yet I got 40 something + somehow, side shifted for whatever reason, and the more I look into how easy it is to just change your chainring the more I feel I have been mislead.
The stock chainring nuts are like butter in the words of the few "vet mechanic monkeys that I have begged to help me."
This gear change is only possible by grinding off whatever weak metal was there and ordering more of the custom length parts to be used only once per chainring change from the same vendor it may seem.
I started off enthusiastic and try to keep it going and keeping positive but the feeling of being let down keeps creeping in. At almost $2000 Australian dollars which is earnt probably the same $2000 US I was hoping that with the ES community behind the venture that this would be my DREAM FINAL BUILD TO FINISH OFF ALL BUILDS WITHOUT HAVING TO TEAR MY HAIR OUT.
However, I let my guard down to the reality of the world.
I told my dad (a mechanic of 40 years+) who has helped me in his 70's through my last through builds that this cost $1k. He said the quality of the chainring system I presented to him was poor...
There is clearly wobble in the freewheel too, which I didn't bother to mention as I am trying to stay focussed that it is not an issue.
I hope still that everything will work out well...
On the same front as the kit I have another with the controller. Having bought it and then not using right away I lost my chance on greentime's sales platform to give him as many negative stars as he deserves for the poorest explanations for a product he sells.
I have been waiting 5 days with no reply for a simple question of how to get the function of an on off switch on a product that cost me almost $200.
What the hell is happening?
I pledge to ES and the community that we must share everything even if vendors will do what they will. I get the feeling that we should be quiet about poor products for the sake for face with the big guys sometimes.
Oh funny my pedal wrench arrived just as I am writing, but it is useless.
Anyway just when I thought my kit was not what I wanted but wanted to ride it I thought just put it all together as it is and give it a ride.
NOPE
The cranks do not clear the kit.
Your sincerely
Fd truly
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