Diy guide to Li ion battery building - a book by mlt34

[macribs]

For those of you that don't already know, es member mlt34 has done a DIY guide to Li ion battery builds.
Hard copy, digital or both. A good read for those of you who are on the fence about making your own pack. Book covers do and don'ts, gives examples of various sized packs, explain things on a level where regular people that are not EE still can follow and understand why and how to make a pack with care.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87300

 

[macribs]

Hey do give a look at https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87434 you no longer require any spot welding or soldering to construct the battery pack any more. Its a new product. Have a look.

Just watched the video. I like your idea. Good stuff it seems. Nice fit posting in this thread

Can you share more details?
What material are the connectors in the sockets made of? It seems the screw and nut are stainless steel. What is the material that is in contact with the battery? And the bus bars, what type of metal are those? The ability to conduct current is lower for stainless steel then various other popular battery bus bars like copper. Also stainless will have higher resistance then copper.

Ideally I would like to have seen either different colors for plus and minus to be more failsafe for first timers trying to make their very own battery pack for the first time.

What if you make a larger pack say 22s10p or 22s16p, will the size and weight of the pack possible cause any sagging of the battery clamps so that cells in the middle of the pack can get bad connection when rattled inside the battery box over bumps, roots, jumps and curbs? It seems that it will be easy to put pressure on the outer rows of cells, pressure from top and bottom to make sure the connection is secure and maximum tight. How could one secure the middle part of the pack? Also for high power builds, high current draw >300 A that many of ebikes here on ES are, the theoretical losses from using stainless steel vs copper might just be big enough to create a concern, like heat build up. And if heat is accumulating under high stress and high current draw stainless steel will be a much poorer heat conductor then copper. And as heat increases so will resistance, causing even more heat and more increase in resistance. And that might turn into a nasty loop.

Have you tested your solution on high current motors, like in repeatedly acceleration from standstill, or slow steep climbing with >12 kw motors drawing > 200 battery A?

I am just thinking out loud here, if you done tests that simulates situations like this let us know.

 

[VRUZEND]

Hey do give a look at https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87434 you no longer require any spot welding or soldering to construct the battery pack any more. Its a new product. Have a look.

Just watched the video. I like your idea. Good stuff it seems. Nice fit posting in this thread

Can you share more details?
What material are the connectors in the sockets made of? It seems the screw and nut are stainless steel. What is the material that is in contact with the battery? And the bus bars, what type of metal are those? The ability to conduct current is lower for stainless steel then various other popular battery bus bars like copper. Also stainless will have higher resistance then copper.

Ideally I would like to have seen either different colors for plus and minus to be more failsafe for first timers trying to make their very own battery pack for the first time.

What if you make a larger pack say 22s10p or 22s16p, will the size and weight of the pack possible cause any sagging of the battery clamps so that cells in the middle of the pack can get bad connection when rattled inside the battery box over bumps, roots, jumps and curbs? It seems that it will be easy to put pressure on the outer rows of cells, pressure from top and bottom to make sure the connection is secure and maximum tight. How could one secure the middle part of the pack? Also for high power builds, high current draw >300 A that many of ebikes here on ES are, the theoretical losses from using stainless steel vs copper might just be big enough to create a concern, like heat build up. And if heat is accumulating under high stress and high current draw stainless steel will be a much poorer heat conductor then copper. And as heat increases so will resistance, causing even more heat and more increase in resistance. And that might turn into a nasty loop.

Have you tested your solution on high current motors, like in repeatedly acceleration from standstill, or slow steep climbing with >12 kw motors drawing > 200 battery A?

I am just thinking out loud here, if you done tests that simulates situations like this let us know.

Hey I have essentially answered all of this in my post https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87434 . It has been under R&D since December 2015 and has been essentially designed for military and police stealth vehicles that would operate on rough roads.