Drew12345 Alpha Flux, Max-E, MXUS 4T

John Bozi said:
Envious of this one mate. :mrgreen:

Yeah I suck at soldering too. Had about 5 sessions to do my harness over the last few weeks and just kept giving up. I was suspecting the iron is not transferring the heat and went and tested my dads old one bang everything heats up instantly.... So I am blaming my tools too!

I reckon you are going to pee your pants when you ride this the first time. NO weight on the back, big suspension.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's one case where I don't mind peeing in my pants :)

Mammalian04 said:
I'm digging those black spokes...

And I too am not a good solderer. I have generally given up on most soldering irons and just jet butane torches when I can. Sometimes I am forced to drag out the soldering iron for the small stuff but try to avoid it. One of these days, I will skip the cheap and mid-price soldering irons. I could have bought a nice one for all the money I have spent on garbage and mediocre irons.
Click to expand...

Actually, I was thinking the same thing on getting a butane. My soldering iron is not powerful enough for heavy stuff. I'll use it for small wires. I know icecube uses a butane torch so must be a good enough.
 
Nice build, will be interesting to see how it compares to your other bikes. This will have a lot more power but it will also be a lot heavier ? And handling with more weight in the wheel compared to the mid drive.
 
It will handle like crap. I don't expect it to handle as well as mid drive. But this will be a lot of fun! I do plan on high powered mid drive though. I think that will be my next build. Something along lines of LMX.
 
Whoa, that's the big butane torch. You are no joke. I bet you can solder stuff real quick. You have much more stuff than I do. I think I will get a butane torch within next few days. I never went to bullet connectors because I could never get it hot enough. Should be no problem than.
 
It heats up 6mm bullets really quick! Just Be sure to get one with an igniter built in. It's really a pain to light when you have one hand holding a wire and the other holding the torch and need a third hand to spark the striker to ignite.
 
the key is shape of the tip. If I wasn't almost done Id design a bits of alu drilled with holes the size of the bullet. Once the tip can wrap around the bullet it heats up really fast.

Try that with one point and you will be there all day not getting the temps.

Wonder what my heat gun can do....
 
Yeah, I'm using pointed tip. I think I've seen several others recommending flat tip. I'll see if I can just buy the tip along with my butane torch.
 
Here is pic with battery in. It's not mounted. I'm in middle of trying to figure how to secure it. I'm mounting my controller internally also right above it.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442886613.013700.jpg
 
I think I know how to secure this. I'm going to drill couple holes in bottom fold on each side and zip tie the battery down. The battery is such a snug fit, I don't need to mount it super secure.

In addition, I'll add a piece of thin wood on top of battery and have controller on top of that. The same zip tie will hold the controller down also. Since wood is poor conductor, I'm hoping controller doesn't transfer any heat to battery.

In couple weeks, I'll add an internal fan to top folds to keep controller cool. But will be riding already to see how hot it gets without fan.
 
It's steel so doubt a couple of holes in the top for the controller would be a problem either? Might even be nice to do the controller upside down with longer screws, so that the whole body of the controller is heat sunk up hard against the frame and you could even throw in a few gobs of thermal paste. Or if you wanted to get extreme since you are already in an enclosed environment remove the controller case and heatsink that up against the bike frame.

Fan sounds complicated, blowing against a controller case? blowing hot air around in a small area.....

I know your aiming for a neat look, but just so that you get an idea on the possibilities of opening up the controller, my mate Newb had his controller on his downtube and had it vented with a fan and a filter. If he can get away with that outside the frame for off road riding I think you got a lot more chances of venting yours inside the frame.
 
Its definitely advantageous to ditch the fan and just bolt to the frame. You're going from a radiant surface area of a few hundred square centimeters to a hundred times that amount.
Enormous heatsink with a seat and wheels.
 
Thanks guys. Do you think it will run cooler without controller cover? I thought the cover was a heatsink?

My initial plan was to mount the controller upside down. I even made a mounting plate already. My concern was that upside down, the controller was very close to battery and would heat the battery up. Not even sure it would melt the heat shrink on battery. I'll show a pic in an hour after i drop kids off at school. I might have more room if I take cover off.
 
Ideally you want to get the fet bars directly contacting the frame. Hard to do up there. You might want to mount the controller to the bottom surface and then put the battery above it with a seperating shelf.

In this thread you'll find one of Kepler's https://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/

Someone also did a flux alpha with one of my 80v 80a controllers in the flux thread. Must have a look.

You could also mount a plate to the top as you've shown.
 
Ah that pic says it all... I was under the impression the top had a flat rectangular patch to the outside of the frame....

My comment about upside down was actually intended the opposite to your picture of your controller upsidedown. The logical way is to have the ends of the controller screw in as you have which I meant is the right way up. Upside down to this you'd longer screws so that the fets were up against the frame...

anyways as Sam says maybe the bottom then....

As you have in your picture now I imagine as you do, the heat will radiate into the battery. I wouldn't want anything up against the surface of the controller either personally.....

I see your idea for the fan now..... but not sure where the cool air would come from.

Is a styrofoam type material on the battery side an ok material to guard off the heat?
 
Samd said:
Ideally you want to get the fet bars directly contacting the frame. Hard to do up there. You might want to mount the controller to the bottom surface and then put the battery above it with a seperating shelf.

In this thread you'll find one of Kepler's https://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/

Someone also did a flux alpha with one of my 80v 80a controllers in the flux thread. Must have a look.

You could also mount a plate to the top as you've shown.
Click to expand...

Thanks Sam. I think I'm going with option of either mounting it upside down on the plate or on top of battery with wood between like originally thought. I will need to come back and figure better approach. I'm so itching to get out and ride. I don't have any ebikes up right now :cry:

John Bozi said:
Ah that pic says it all... I was under the impression the top had a flat rectangular patch to the outside of the frame....

My comment about upside down was actually intended the opposite to your picture of your controller upsidedown. The logical way is to have the ends of the controller screw in as you have which I meant is the right way up. Upside down to this you'd longer screws so that the fets were up against the frame...

anyways as Sam says maybe the bottom then....

As you have in your picture now I imagine as you do, the heat will radiate into the battery. I wouldn't want anything up against the surface of the controller either personally.....

I see your idea for the fan now..... but not sure where the cool air would come from.

Is a styrofoam type material on the battery side an ok material to guard off the heat?
Click to expand...

Glad it makes more sense now with the pics. It's so hard to explain some things without pictures. The cool air would come from two big holes near front of frame. Not sure how effective this will be. If it comes down to it, I'll just mount it externally but that will be last resort. Regarding styrofoam, I just put that there so battery doesn't bounce off round metal section in back. But never thought about heat-wise.

I do plan on getting some thermal padding and some ideas others have tried. John, I think you mentioned thermal paste.
 
Just got circuit breaker in from Amazon. Just love their 2 day shipping. It's the Midnite Solar-MNEDC100.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442959066.998536.jpg
 
Here is test fit of controller and battery mounted. I haven't tied the battery down yet because I don't want to waste my zip ties. I have about .5 inches or 12.7 mm of space between controller and battery. I decided to mount controller to frame to see if I can use it as heat sink as some have suggested. I also thought of another way to mount the fet bar to frame but that will be later as more work.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443026676.566135.jpg
 
Im no frabicator so just trying to find stuff around garage and local hardware to make this work. Here is type of plate used on my last 3 bikes for controller. Used jb weld to mount two together. The one on left is old one and on right for flux frame.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443027033.349755.jpg

I also had to drill some holes for the zip ties. I wish flux had these holes already.

 
I know on your first ride you'll take your tool to open up the battery compartment so that you can test the temperatures transferring to the battery....

My only worry for you is that you may regret your vent holes in the frame if you decide to put the controller outside.

How many kw were you running again? If it is beyond continuous ratings for the controller even with vent holes it's going to get hot if you push the bike hard. I know my controllers always ran hot even when outside. Doubt your mxus will get a chance to get fully explored under 3kw.

Good luck the weekend's near
 
Yup, will check quite often on first rides. I'm going to get one of this infrared thermometers too.

Re: vent holes, those are part of frame. They gave us covers but I will leave them off while controller inside.

I'm not sure how many kW yet. Maybe 5kw. I'm not sure.

My first few rides will take some time to dial in the controller. I will just leave controller at default settings for this weekend.

I'll try to take a vid of first ride. I'm sure something interesting will happen.
 
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