Drew12345 Trek Fuel (AFT Mid Drive, Gauges)

I decided this morning to paint the rest of motor bracket black and install the new ISIS bottom bracket and chainrings since it's too cold to ride right now.

But before I do that, here are couple pics of how much my backpack weighs. The total weight is 16 lb 7oz or 7.46 kg. The camelbak hawg backpack consist of 11 lb battery in a pelican case and some tools. No water but rarely ride with water anyway.

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Getting minor surgery right now so no riding for next month [DISAPPOINTED FACE] I'll least work on my bike. Stuff you see in pic above is still in same state. Will paint after I feel better in a week.
 
Been long time since I posted. So no riding ebike for two months - doctors orders. Two months almost up so went for ride a little early (other ebike). It's amazing how fast 18s seems after not riding awhile.

I also found out prior to surgery that have couple bulging disc in my lower back. Got this from running. But also degenerative. So that spoils my normal setup to having battery on my back which I love. I can at least ride with my frame bag. So doing that now.

Im in process of trying to figure what to do. I want a stealthier setup than my big additive frame bag. I might go with a stealth fighter or NYX frame. A dedicated ebike frame to hide batteries and doesn't stand out too much. Dunno.

Also, my aft drive is completely off my bike. Painted rest of it black but too lazy to put back together.
 
Sorry to hear about your health :cry: Does the doctor recommend a pedal bike that would go slower?
 
Probably the best and easiest solution to get the battery out of your back pack for your Trek fuel since it has a nice big open triangle is the MINI EM3ev triangle pack , this should fit in their ?

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=158

With the Samsung 25R INR18650-25R - 14.7Ah , and the 25R should be able to power a controller with Max current up to around 50 or 60A which will be enough for the 2880w peak.
 
@dbaker
Thanks man. Doctor actually said not good to ride on the trails because of all the pounding. So I'm thinking that is really not a choice. I think I will just go with batteries on bike and bigger suspension :)

@John
Unfortunantly it will not fit on those frames. It needs a tube to mount to. I might still mount on the same bike. I'm not sure yet. Paid a lot of money so would like to make it work somehow. Plus, it's a lot of fun on the trail.

@jk1
Hmmmm, never thought about putting triangle pack there. Will give that a thought. Thanks.

It was such a beautiful day and wanted to go riding sooooo bad but already had plans with others for the night. Found out later in the day that they couldn't make it. And was too late to charge my batteries. And raining tomorrow. So will need to wait....
 
Just get a sheet of aluminium man, make a base plate. Less solid material in my experience so far is better as I can keep changing my cell combinations. tape and some cheap plastic and lots of velcro :)....

I have lots of plastic forming tools and stuff ready but don't want to make stuff to great because the battery spec keeps changing...
 
I agree. It's just so time consuming Last time I tried I was staying up several late nights. I liked the end product but not sure with the hassle. Dunno. I was thinking about a dh comp though. I love the design of that bike and makes for very stealthy config. The box for that wouldn't be too bad.
 
Hi Drew i am just building a DH comp for my next bike and would agree it is a great starting point for an e bike build.
As for your kit not fitting something with no down tube you could fab a bracket to bolt it up easily with a hacksaw and a file.
Darren
I may have a spare dh comp frame soon as i have 2 .
 
Thanks for tip Darren. Yes, let me know about the dh comp. What size is it? Saw your LR build. Looks awesome.
 
It is a medium and is the one you have seen on my build thread as the other is at the welders.
Cant wait to get it running,super excited for this.
Darren
 
Tech question for high powered mid drivers:

What's the most power you run and why don't you have torque arms? What is different about power of the same level being put through the chain or directly through the hub?

Has any mid driver out there ruined dropouts due to torque?
 
You doesn't need torque arms with mid drive becouse motor is not in dropouts(it is not forcing them) Flexing force from motor is transferred through motor mounting plates. Thats why these are so thick and secured with strong clamp to the frame.

With high power mid drive chain force often becomes a problem - it flexes frame swingarm to one side. (you can easily avoid this by mounting motor directly on swingarm)
 
Hey John. Thanks for checking in. I got a steroid shot in my back and in physical therapy. I'm still riding but mainly on street. Will strengthen my back and get back on the trails.

I'm ordering a flux frame (with hub) and will get big suspension with that so better on back. Still haven't put my mid drive back together. Just too lazy :)
 
Lol. Not yet. I started build but waiting on some wheels from Roadrash. Also, been working lot of hours past few days so had to take a break from build.
 
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