Drilling holes in side covers?

ebike11

1 MW
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
Messages
2,009
Location
far away
Hi guys
Is there a particular way/pattern that you cool your hub motor by drilling holes in the side cover?
Do you do both sides and how large of holes?
Also wouldnt there be a risk of dirt etc getting inside the motor?
Sorry for all the queations!
 
Water will get in there and start rusting so you need to paint the inside with insulation varnish.

A good watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwlbAJLzI_w

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=91251&p=1330428&hilit=drilled+cover+dirt#p1330428
 
some posts about this (not everything is relevant)

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=drill+covers&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=drilled+covers&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=drilled+cover&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=drill+cover&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=drill*+cover*&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search
 
My own opinion is that cooling holes mostly just let a motor cool faster once you have stopped. This can save your halls. At that point the pattern does not matter so much, once stopped the low holes suck air, and the high ones vent it out. I do think you should make your holes so you can see windings through them. That's the hot part after all. And you can monitor their color over time.

Pushing the motor that much beyond its rated wattage, gets you into more trouble than its worth, but cooling holes might have specialty utility, such as racing situations. When I pushed a motor too hard, cooling holes made a nice display, as the flames shot out the holes.

Yes, they let in everything, dirt, water, whatever is out there. The one good thing I noticed, was that while briefly paused, I could tell the temp of the motor by smell.

But the bottom line, don't push any motor too far. trying to run 4000w through a 500w motor was too much. Those same cheap dd motors behave well when given 2000w though. At that point, cooling holes are not needed provided the motor is not seriously overloaded.
 
I recall, LFP had proved in a vid that dick shape holes are more fun to watch when a motor does spit blue plasma flames. :mrgreen:
 
For cooling
- The mass and weight are important to store heat and for it to somehow shed that built up heat, a large MXUS 3kw vs a small 9C
- Using Statorade (Ferro Fluid)
- Some have used Aluminum cooling fins between the flanges to help shed heat. Others have tried to flar the cover holes to scoop air in, while others have tried using small fans inside the motor.

I posted this in Electric Vehicles by Accident, was meaning for it to be in Electric Bicycles, but EV is good enough section to be in.
Understanding Everything about Hub Motor Drive Systems - Spezi 2020 Live Presentation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c96n0Ma2rLY&list=PLH8T1SX8ZJv_-5jh18xosYCH08jmdL_-T

Justin LeMore has done other videos, including more lecture type videos.
Grin Tech YT Video Library
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbKIWz7uAeDSMgulTonKk6w/videos?pbjreload=10
LECTURE - Introduction to Ebike Conversion Kits, filmed live at 2019 BC Bike Show - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnhuoUrwhIw
Statorade (Ferro Fluid) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZU-mhlNcqE
Statorade - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bvS0aZ4VpA
 
The real-world is sometimes counter-intuitive. Side plate holes do let moisture in, but when the stator gets warm, the holes also get the vapor out. As mentioned by the previous posters, its prudent to spray all interior surfaces with a recommended hi-temp motor varnish (listed in the motor section stickies), to prevent rust.

It also let's in dirt and grit. So buy a spare set of axle bearings (not expensive, but a PITA to change-out).

A coffee cups' worth of synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), can connect the stator to the aluminum side plates. Cheap and readily available. Works well, but...in spite of the best efforts it also has an occasional oily drip...

A thicker cast aluminum stator-support will absorb heat spikes, and dissipate that heat over time. More expensive and heavier than the stamped steel core.

Ferro-Fluid is near ideal, maybe 5ml-10ml per year? If you use FF or ATF, you probably dont need the more expensive cast aluminum stator-support...

However, the thinner 0.35mm laminations are always worth it (instead if the common 0.50mm), regardless of any other measures taken...
 
Yes, bottom line is better motor the best approach, vs hammering a motor way too hard for its design.

However, even very tiny holes, like 1/8 inch, that keep out larger sand particles, still let out water vapor, and along with it, the smell if you happen to be overdoing it.

For me, smelling a cooking motor in time was far more useful than the cooling effect of big holes.
 
A temperature gauge works well, I wasnt able to smell the windings cooking until I got up close to it and barely smelled anything, not until I undid the cover bolts, then you take a good deep whiff in and have a new "clean" date, tell that to your buddies!
 
Hello Ebike 11,

Rick from Quincy here.

See Justin's video "all about hub motors": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c96n0Ma2rLY

Thermal cooling about one hour into the video and holes about 1 hour and 25 minutes.

Well worth watching and the size of the holes are impressive.
 
Back
Top