E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller
- Thread starter darkangel
- Start date
ok guys just got back
shop master suggested getting new fixie wheel insead of buying all parts
all parts for the wheel coversion would cots me 150 including; spokes, tools cog, cog lock
good news
my sprocket set/casete is not slide on but screw on so, i do not need freewheel
also he mentioned, that under so much torque fixie hub may unthread
shop master suggested getting new fixie wheel insead of buying all parts
all parts for the wheel coversion would cots me 150 including; spokes, tools cog, cog lock
good news
my sprocket set/casete is not slide on but screw on so, i do not need freewheel
also he mentioned, that under so much torque fixie hub may unthread
ok guys under so much cost it is not worth converting this bicycle so like Miles said i am forced to quit this project without any further attempts
29ner mountain bike is just to big to convert
thank you all for suggestions and good luck with your coversions :wink:
29ner mountain bike is just to big to convert
thank you all for suggestions and good luck with your coversions :wink:
this is what i was told
them;
"you need 700cc rear wheel with 135mm quick release hub and brake disk mount holes, so you candrill holes on the cog and mount it on to disc brake mount. the quick release excel/shaft needs to be changed to longer shaft. cost for rear wheel $99, 3 cog set 16, 18, 22tooth $45, new slide on casete $35, the matching front wheel with disk brake $85"
me;
my budget is $100 i cant spend no more than $100, as i need to get new motor
them;
"well, thats your problem"
them;
"you need 700cc rear wheel with 135mm quick release hub and brake disk mount holes, so you candrill holes on the cog and mount it on to disc brake mount. the quick release excel/shaft needs to be changed to longer shaft. cost for rear wheel $99, 3 cog set 16, 18, 22tooth $45, new slide on casete $35, the matching front wheel with disk brake $85"
me;
my budget is $100 i cant spend no more than $100, as i need to get new motor
them;
"well, thats your problem"
DATABASE00
100 mW
- Joined
- May 4, 2012
- Messages
- 41
sorry to hear of all the issues your running into. its hard keeping it looking good while trying to save cash. Im in the middle of that still, but finally got a complete bike s now im trying to figure out batteries and stuff. still like a month away from actual riding thow lol.
i have contacted other supplier to see if he can offer me wheel set for + - $100
the way my bike wheel set is setup, just doesn't work so by changing the wheels on it, the performance and equipment suitability will improve by 100%
database-why don't you run it with slas for couple months and see how it holds up, then make a decision
i still care about looks, i would rather quit the project then ride something that looks like from the junk yard, but that is just me i guess the way i am
so don't you guys take it personally, every mans creation is his reflection. look what Miles built the damn thing lookes awesome
the way my bike wheel set is setup, just doesn't work so by changing the wheels on it, the performance and equipment suitability will improve by 100%
database-why don't you run it with slas for couple months and see how it holds up, then make a decision
i still care about looks, i would rather quit the project then ride something that looks like from the junk yard, but that is just me i guess the way i am
so don't you guys take it personally, every mans creation is his reflection. look what Miles built the damn thing lookes awesome
hi thank you RJOE
I looked into it and the problem is price $50 for the hub then $35-40 for new spokes custom made not including shipping, that's as much as whole rear wheel would cost me, while all of it would be already setup on it and i wouldn't have to mess with anything.
so that's why i am looking into getting new rear 700cc wheel. I think that quick release wheels come with 135mm nut to nut hubs and disk brake mount on the side so i don't have to worry about stripping the threads.
the rear hub would have to be able to handle 300lbs of pure weight so that's why i think by bolting the sprocket on to disk brake mount would work better then screwing the cog on to the hub (if otherwise let me know guys, maybe i am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time though )
also i need the front wheel with disk brake mount to = rear wheel
my budget is $100 for both disc brake wheels
I looked into it and the problem is price $50 for the hub then $35-40 for new spokes custom made not including shipping, that's as much as whole rear wheel would cost me, while all of it would be already setup on it and i wouldn't have to mess with anything.
so that's why i am looking into getting new rear 700cc wheel. I think that quick release wheels come with 135mm nut to nut hubs and disk brake mount on the side so i don't have to worry about stripping the threads.
the rear hub would have to be able to handle 300lbs of pure weight so that's why i think by bolting the sprocket on to disk brake mount would work better then screwing the cog on to the hub (if otherwise let me know guys, maybe i am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time though
)also i need the front wheel with disk brake mount to = rear wheel
my budget is $100 for both disc brake wheels
Alan B
100 GW
Did you ever solve the gearing problem? If you don't get the motor spinning at the right RPM it will overheat. Match the voltage to the gearing, your voltage was too high on the first try.
will use 4 sla batteries as 6 is to much
i have 11t sprocket from my old motor will use it for the new
direct drive or hub sprocket:
thin but not to thin tires for the new wheels,
computer 12v fan running of 1 sla battery will some how connect to motor, will use the old one to make the fan tupe profile, hell i may start selling those fan cooling profiles.
i have 3 sprockets got it from bike shop 15t 18t 22tooth
to begin with i will use the 15t sprocket and see how hot motor gets after 1 mile.
will see what happens, hope it works.
i have 11t sprocket from my old motor will use it for the new
direct drive or hub sprocket:
thin but not to thin tires for the new wheels,
computer 12v fan running of 1 sla battery will some how connect to motor, will use the old one to make the fan tupe profile, hell i may start selling those fan cooling profiles.
i have 3 sprockets got it from bike shop 15t 18t 22tooth
to begin with i will use the 15t sprocket and see how hot motor gets after 1 mile.
will see what happens, hope it works.
the wheels arrived and new motor arrived
dang wheels are so light compared to my old wheels, it's unlivable what i had on my bike, no wonder my knees were killing me
so now i have to get sprocket cassette, and new tires, will take it to bicycle shop tomorrow, probably will need some sort of spacer for in between hub and rear frame fork.
once all done will post some pictures
dang wheels are so light compared to my old wheels, it's unlivable what i had on my bike, no wonder my knees were killing me
so now i have to get sprocket cassette, and new tires, will take it to bicycle shop tomorrow, probably will need some sort of spacer for in between hub and rear frame fork.
once all done will post some pictures
coldfusion594
10 mW
DATABASE00 said:about the motor that is alot of amps needed. And weight isnt that pretty looks like my treadmill motors. But seems really strong.
4 HP 24 VDC ELECTRIC MOTOR
45 AMPS NO LOAD
140 AMPS FULL LOAD
8000 RPM FULL LOAD
32 INCH POUND OF TORQUE
¾” DIAM. X 1 ¾” SHAFT WITH KEYWAY
MOTOR DIMENSION 4” DIAM. X 7 ¾”
SHPG 24 LB (ESTIMATED)
Also lookup flip flop rear hibs.
it makes it so the back only has one gear on both sides. one side you always have to peddle other side you can coast, you could put the coasting side for you and the motor side for the motor.
So long story short, you can't just put a freewheel on both sides? hmmm
if so...
Can you choose which side to put the freewheel on?
I'm liking the idea though! would something like this be beefy enough to handle the power coming from the motor?
sorry I did not want to open up a whole new thread