E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

1. no
2. yes

3. no, it wont be strong to handle the torque comming from the motor considering the weight of the bike, your weight, battery weight, wind, terain

ok so, here is the situation

i have been looking into doing same thing you have shown on the picture and did some research, asked people who new and so on

finaly after all, i went to bike shop here in scaumburg preformance bicycles and spoke to guy who converted bicycles to both electric and gass

he told me
"....."
do not get freewheel hub get cassette hub with disc brake

1. your motor will strip the threads on the freewheel hub, freewheel is nothing but problems after problems especialy if setup is done with after market parts, you are not riding BMX
2. threaded hubs are not strong and will not last you long time as you are running heavy, here look at this one its destroyed customer wouldn't listen to me and look
3. the cassette hub is strong and cheep worth money spent even if it gets destroyed i will sell you one for $15, i have never had customer come back complaining
4. mount cog or sprocket on to disk brake mount and tighten the mount with steel bend this will last you long time, all my gass bike customers have it and so far no problems
5. if you want freewheel on motor side install it directly on the motor or make the gear box for it

then he gave me price for new wheels, tires, tire tubes, 3 cogs, and i was like indirectly f you man cost is to high

so now i dont know if my new setup will actualy work with my heavy bike but will see, i will have the whole setup done by sunday probably so just wait and see if i succeeeeed follow my built instructions and you will be safe
 
If you look thru my CrazyBike2 stuff in my Electricle Blog and early posts in the CB2 thread, you'll see that I ran chain drive at high torque levels thru a regular freewheel-thread-on type hub without problems on the hub itself. I stripped out some of the smaller sprocket teeth, and I bent up a lot of front chainrings and broke some chains, even bent an axle and crushed a rim with the torque of a chain derailment, but I never damaged the hub itself. ;)

Keep in mnd this is a 150lb bike with the same weight in rider, AND I can carry cargo on it (at the rear wheel) of 80-200lbs.

I break spokes and rims, and bend axles, but not hubs, and I don't strip the threads, either.

If he's having problems stripping the threads, he's probably using cheap aluminum threaded hubs, with steel freewheels that dont' have perfectly-matching threads (meaning the threads cut into one don't fully seat into and mesh with the threads in the other, leaving a gap that allows "play" or sliding over the top of each other, like a loose-fitting bolt/nut combo--that WILL let threads strip).

FWIW, it's not all that uncommon on various hubmotors, especially older ones, to strip the threads on the disc brake mounts (before they started using ISO bolt holes on the motors themselves), and sometimes on the freewheel threads, too. But on regular bike hubs, even crappy ones, I haven't managed it yet.
 
amber is correct if you can get the good steel hub and lace the new spokes you should be kin my case the cost plays main rolle
 
darkangel said:
amber is correct if you can get the good steel hub and lace the new spokes you should be kin my case the cost plays main rolle
Click to expand...
Just about everything I used for those wheels on CrazyBIke2 was recycled stuff off old junk bikes. ;) Most of the wheels started life on the bike as complete wheels off the other bikes, but as I broke more of the spokes and rims with weight/potholes/etc, I had to rebuild them with parts from other wheels that had less damage (until eventually I broke everything *except* the hubs on most of them). Some were steel, some were aluminum, but all had no problems with the torque levels I put thru the threads/freewheel. IIRC I even broke one freewheel (jammed pawls), but it didn't do anything to the threads on the hub.

You'd have to go back thru the blog posts about CB2's "adventures" for all the details, though, as I don't directly recall most of it anymore.
 
ok guys just tried to drill 15t got one hole and almost got killed by sprocket, such a strong material

f... it i'll just order already drilled one on ebay

went to shop today and this is my bike now so light
View attachment 2
View attachment 1

this is the strangest thing guy added some sort of epoxy thing to make it stronger, go figure a
 
ok so i got on there 4 slas

the motor is smoking but works, didnt want to force it so i dont kill it

have no idea why it smokes, even with no load on it maybe it should smoke on first run

sprocket 16t
motor sprocket 11t
bicycle chain loose as hell
 
wtf ... now engine is worm but it cuts off in middle of ride, checked battery 11.5v so its not battery

maybee its controller

what do you think guys why it keeps shutting off???
 
i was just told by some guy that i need the run capacitor,

the engine keeps shuting down, goes and shuts then throtle again it goes then it shuts i just cant figure why

do you guys know why?????
 
now when i lift the back wheel and throtle up engine works fine, when i sit on it it goes and shuts off. i am confused


why motor or controller is cutting out under load guys???
 
Motor should never smoke; that usually means there is FAR too much current thru it and is burning the windings and/or brushes. This usually happens from wrong gearing, as discussed in the first responses to your thread.

If it will spin without a load on it, but not with a load, then these are the typical reasons. Some may not apply to your system:
--controller's current limit (if any) is being hit so hard it shuts down
--controller's LVC is triggering due to battery voltage sag under the higher current load
--BMS's current limit (if any) is being hit so hard it shuts down
--BMS's LVC is triggering due to battery voltage sag under the higher current load
--Brushed motor is damaged from overheating so that commutator segments are burned/warped or brushholders/brushes are melted/misaligned and are unable to supply enough current to start it going under load
--Brushed motor is damaged from overheating so that windings are shorted out

Possibly other things but that's my 30-second list.

Most likely the motor is already toast, but you'd have to troubleshoot it just like before to find out.


A "run capacitor" is only for AC induction motors, and is not used for DC brushed motors. Same for "start capacitors".
 
i got 4 bateries on it so thats 48v motor is 60v
11t and 16t sprocket bike is 45lbs less on weight so total of 220 lbs versus
300+ i had
didnt ride it with full throtle but half when it started smoking

the motor will run under load for couple of seconds before it shuts, then throtle again it runs and shuts

remember i had 44 t sprocket when same thing happened, now i have 16t

so i cant see anything other then controller being just underdeveloped for what it is ment to run correct?
 
darkangel said:
i got 4 bateries on it so thats 48v motor is 60v
11t and 16t sprocket bike is 45lbs less on weight so total of 220 lbs versus
300+ i had
didnt ride it with full throtle but half when it started smoking

the motor will run under load for couple of seconds before it shuts, then throtle again it runs and shuts

remember i had 44 t sprocket when same thing happened, now i have 16t

so i cant see anything other then controller being just underdeveloped for what it is ment to run correct?
Click to expand...

AFAICT, you've made the problem of gearing MUCH worse, rather than better. If I didnt' miss anything in my going back now, looking at your thread, I don't think you understood my posts describing and showing the math for the gearing and wheel speed vs motor RPM. If I did miss something, and you understood and have compensated for the gearing change, I apologize.

But it looks to me like you needed to put a *larger* sprocket on the wheel, not a smaller one. Smaller will make the wheel go faster, placing a much greater load on the motor, forcing the motor to turn even slower than ti did before, when it smoked becuase the gearing was insufficient. :(

If the new motor's RPM at the specified voltage is lower than the first one, down to the RPM the first motor was actually running at, then you coudl probably have gone with the original sprocket to make it work. But if the new motor's RPM at the specified voltage is the same, or higher, you'd need a larger sprocket to do the work, just like before. As I described before, you have to figure out the motor's RPM at the voltage you're going to feed it, and then provide gearing that lets it run somewhere up near that when you're at the speed you want to be riding at.

I'm sorry that I have been unable to read all of hte posts in your thread each time I have had a moment to drop in, or I might have seen where you were planning an even smaller sprocket and tried to steer you back to a much larger one as I tried to point out in my first post on that subject, where I showed you the path of math to see what hte motor RPM was.
 
Hi Guys


the speed i am looking for is 35mph at least, some hills but mostly flat terrain (impossible without killing it)
to small of a gear will burn this motor, to big of a gear will overload it and kill it

currently i am building 29nr and would like to setup whole thing with

:arrow: This 36 volt controller has 7 connectors.
Rated Voltage: 36 Volts.
Max Current: 40 Amps.
Useable Motors: ≤ 1000 Watts.

:arrow: MY1020Z3 36 Volt,
600 Watt, 3300 RPM Non-Gear Reduced / 480 RPM Gear Reduced,
21.3 Amp, permanent-magnet motor.
11 tooth sprocket for #420 chains.
12 gauge power leads.
Gear Ratio: 60:9 (6.67)

i need your recommendation
:arrow: if i go with geared motor what size of sprocket i will need for my 29" or total 31" rear wheel
and if with non geared

rear wheel direct drive
currently on my bike i have 17t sprocket
and and i have second rear wheel with 44t sprocket for just in any case


biycle with me is 220lbs
3 sla batteries 12v 12h

:arrow: got one controller This 48 volt controller has 8 connectors. for just in any case 36v gets shut
Rated Voltage: 48 Volts.
Max Current: 40 Amps.
Usable Motors: ≤ 1000 Watts.



let me know what do you suggest here is the picture of my bike setup currently :p
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=84823
 
"quote"
by DISH » Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:39 pm

I have used and HIGHLY recommend the TNC Scooter 600W GEARED Motor - 36 Volts (Style: MY1020Z3) ($80.00) http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=337.

- Although the NO LOAD speed of the geared motor is rated at ~480 RPM, typical loaded RPM will run around 325 RPM.
- 325 RPM on a 700C wheel is around 25 MPH.
- Assuming 25 MPH sounds OK to you, you would need ONE TO ONE gearing (or close to it) between the motor and the 29 inch wheel.
- The smallest standard rear bicycle gear is 11 tooth. That's close enough to make the system work

but I really don't like putting that much power and torque through that small a gear driving that large a wheel.
 
response for TNC SHOOTERS Chriss

"If you decided to use the geared motor solutions, you will need to realize that your top speed will be limited to the maximum top speed of the motor or about 480 rpms. Also you will need to order a sprocket to fit on the motor that will replace the existing 420 chain sprocket. We have these sprockets available on our web site. If you choose to use the geared motor you can probably use the 16 tooth sprocket already on your wheel. The geared motor already has the torque built into it because its geared.

YES the CT-660B9 controller will work with the 600 Watt GEARED motor. The controller should have no problems with this motor."
 
ok so

over all to get to 35mph speed i will have to weld sort of bigger sprocket on to motor sprocket and keep the existing sprocket on the hub

:arrow: but buy changing the gearing to large motor sprocket i am not sure if that will overheat the motor and kill it

here is my further calculation

motor sprocket 22t
hub sprocket 16t
= 0.73:1 gear ratio
motor under load 300rpm estimated
= 38mph
wind resistance on nice day here in chicago
= 34mph -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndVJ5Ost25E
 
following this build process; http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9207&start=120

changing the gearing to large motor sprocket will overheat the motor and kill it
 
the higher the gearing, the more torque (current) you will need on start up and going up hills. that's what will kill the motor

ps the 660B9 is a great controller with a lot of functionality. I love mine
 
rjoe said:
the higher the gearing, the more torque (current) you will need on start up and going up hills. that's what will kill the motor

ps the 660B9 is a great controller with a lot of functionality. I love mine
Click to expand...

thank you Joe man,

so what size of the sprockets you would recommend me to use with this motor, i just don't want to over heat this motor and kill it
 
ok guys here is the reply from tnc shooters Chris
:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:

Your motor sprocket is too big!

You need to decrease the size of your motor sprocket to something like 11 or 13 tooth max! The larger motor sprocket defeats the purpose of having a geared motor.

You need to increase the size of your hub sprocket 16 tooth. This should be something like 22 tooth.

Your gearing ratio is all wrong. You want the larger sprocket on the wheel and the smaller sprocket on the motor.

With the numbers you have quoted us, you are defeating the purpose of the geared motor. You are actually (un - reducing) the gearing of the motor using the larger sprocket. This will put unnecessary strain on the motor and will eventually result in this motor burning up too.

With the correct gearing, you will not be able to obtain the 35 mph you want, its just not possible. With the gearing you are talking about using, you will burn up yet another motor.

Sorry to say the 600 Watt motors does not have any type of freewheel that can be mounted to it.
 
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