E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners
- Thread starter Cowardlyduck
- Start date
jimmywazer
10 mW
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2020
- Messages
- 26
Blake2020 said:
Same top speed same torque, just running cooler. The 40mm motor can handle more amps bcs of the bigger mass of copper. I guess you could throw some more amps at it but then it would overheat just as fast as before. What you described would be with a bigger rear sprocket (110t+) then you'd have more torque and less top speed. It would also run cooler since the motor spins at higher rpm for same speeds... anyone has a source for bigger than 100t rear kart sprockets?
briangv99
1 kW
jimmywazer said:
Biggest I've bought off the shelf are 105t
https://cometkartsales.com/-219-Rocket-Sprockets-Two-Piece-Split.html
benjamin84
100 W
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 177
I'm confused, are there different motor options? I will be using my bike exclusively off road on mostly technical trails, many of them quite steep 
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Most of the 64T are equipped with the 30mm (by default). All 64H have to use the 40mm.
In the future, only the 40mm will be available.
The 30mm is 0.7kg lighter, that is what I use on our M test bike.
Only the continuous power/torque is different. Peak values vith defaut programming are very similar.
In the future, only the 40mm will be available.
The 30mm is 0.7kg lighter, that is what I use on our M test bike.
Only the continuous power/torque is different. Peak values vith defaut programming are very similar.
benjamin84
100 W
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 177
Thanks, that clears it up 
courcheval
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
- Messages
- 140
jimmywazer said:
I bought a 2020 LMX 64, so i think i already have a 40 mm motor on...
courcheval
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
- Messages
- 140
My second ride got much more pleasant. Instead of using mode 4, i used mode 5 accelerator only on steep gradients, assisting with some relaxed peddling and the motor held the pace without power loss this time. It seems that for 100+ kilos charge, it s preferable to use the accelerator to keep a steady motor speed.
I did a few other adjustments : V shaped handlebar (+3 inches) and a thicker saddle, and i m now starting to seriously enjoy the ride. Little adjustments make all the difference. Inflating the tyres from 1.5 bars to 3 bars also helped a lot with stability on asphalt.
A few suggestions tho to improve the overall experience :
the speed magnet would be safer placed on the rear brake rather than on the spokes.
riding by night makes it a bit difficult to find the speed assistance commands. A small led light placed on the command would really increase confort.
A "pushing" mode would allow to push the bike on high gradients with one hand on the saddle, which is much more confortable than handling both sides of the handlebar.
A long bolt to allow to adjust the front light setting. Once you change the handlebar to a higher shape, the light and honk hub move loosely and there is no way to set it.
A small white mark on the battery plug side and hole side to find out quickly how to adjust both without using your phone light.
Showing the motor temperature on the main menu, to find out when to accelerate to cool off the engine...
I lent the bike to a few lighter riders and everyone of them got extremely enthousiastic.
That s all for now folks
Edit : If this was possible, may be a way to easily set in the menu the force multiplication applied on peddling mode would help heavier riders keep enjoying the mode 4 on steeper sections...
I did a few other adjustments : V shaped handlebar (+3 inches) and a thicker saddle, and i m now starting to seriously enjoy the ride. Little adjustments make all the difference. Inflating the tyres from 1.5 bars to 3 bars also helped a lot with stability on asphalt.
A few suggestions tho to improve the overall experience :
the speed magnet would be safer placed on the rear brake rather than on the spokes.
riding by night makes it a bit difficult to find the speed assistance commands. A small led light placed on the command would really increase confort.
A "pushing" mode would allow to push the bike on high gradients with one hand on the saddle, which is much more confortable than handling both sides of the handlebar.
A long bolt to allow to adjust the front light setting. Once you change the handlebar to a higher shape, the light and honk hub move loosely and there is no way to set it.
A small white mark on the battery plug side and hole side to find out quickly how to adjust both without using your phone light.
Showing the motor temperature on the main menu, to find out when to accelerate to cool off the engine...
I lent the bike to a few lighter riders and everyone of them got extremely enthousiastic.
That s all for now folks
Edit : If this was possible, may be a way to easily set in the menu the force multiplication applied on peddling mode would help heavier riders keep enjoying the mode 4 on steeper sections...
hkj
100 W
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2018
- Messages
- 106
I just came home from a high speed bash in the woods, awesome fun, but on the way home I could hear like a ticking sound when using pedal assist. Disabling motor completely removed the noise. Also, running the motor just on throttle does not produce the noise. Anyone got an idea what it could be? Noise is coming from the crank area.
Never had this issue before. Need your help to figure it out.
My initial thought was debris or something but couldn't see anything. Running with belt drive.
Thanks in advance.
Never had this issue before. Need your help to figure it out.
My initial thought was debris or something but couldn't see anything. Running with belt drive.
Thanks in advance.
Freakyfuego1
100 µW
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 7
Nothing to do with the pedals? I hit a stump with my left pedal and also noticed some kind of ticking noise afterwards. I changed the pedal and the noise is gone
hkj
100 W
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2018
- Messages
- 106
Hmm so nothing with pedals or magnet or anything yet visible. Sound is coming from inside the motor I recon. At least from what I can tell when sitting on it and riding it.
I can only hear the noise when power is turned on, I'm sitting on the bike, either pedaling or using throttle. Pedaling the bike without power turned on makes no noise at all.
Running the motor when the bike is stationary under no suspension load does not produce the noise either. Something to do with weight being added and the motor is running.
Gold star to the one helping me nailing this issue.
I can only hear the noise when power is turned on, I'm sitting on the bike, either pedaling or using throttle. Pedaling the bike without power turned on makes no noise at all.
Running the motor when the bike is stationary under no suspension load does not produce the noise either. Something to do with weight being added and the motor is running.
Gold star to the one helping me nailing this issue.
TorEddy
100 W
hkj said:
Have you checked the #219 chain for debris/tiny rocks hitting the small sprocket?
Maybe try to run the motor when on bike stand, and apply some rear brake to see if the sound comes back.
If the sound is only produced when there is load on the bike/seat, maybe it has something to do with the chain tensioner??
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Could be also that the sproket is getting loose.
Check for play of the sproket
Check for play of the sproket
Where can I find v0.7.18?croydon said:For the nucular boys amazing update v0.7.18 pas scale in advanced option try it out it is really amazing update you can fine tune pas perfect per mode.
vasiliy and his team did there an amazing job.
Last one on the Nucular website is still v0.7.12
http://wiki.nucular.tech/en:firmware
Cheers
telegram on windows Nucular Electronics also update for display you need to reset controller and set your setting again.#update Display v0.60B http://wiki.nucular.tech/en:firmwareCowardlyduck said:Where can I find v0.7.18?croydon said:For the nucular boys amazing update v0.7.18 pas scale in advanced option try it out it is really amazing update you can fine tune pas perfect per mode.
vasiliy and his team did there an amazing job.
Last one on the Nucular website is still v0.7.12
http://wiki.nucular.tech/en:firmware
Cheers
It wasn't on there yesterday...is now.croydon said:
Did the update. Will have to play with it for the PAS stuff. I like the new throttle curve...set mine to exponential and it feels much more progressive with my thumb throttle.
Cheers
hkj said:
I have also a low clicking, started about a month ago. I‘m looking for the source. I think it is the motor bearing. Only under low torque can it be heard. Just peddling, not there, Just motor, hard to hear. With peddles and motor more apparent. Is it the crank arm main bearing or the motor bearing or both. I‘m up to about 1500km on the bike. Can‘t really say how much as I reset the controller a year ago without thinking.Up to 700km after the reset. With the belt drive these little noises can be heard, but only just. Seriously loving this bike. I gonna download and install the new firmware tomorrow. If you have a belt drive you need a steel pulley. Has worked wonderfully since I have it. I want a 16 tooth steel pulley. The Kenda rear tire is getting low. I‘m installing the 2.8 DHF and DHR next. Just waiting until I have no tread on the rear. The Kenda tyre has been fantastic. Went out for another 22km run today. Wet, slippery and bumpy. PS, if your brakes feel spongy, check the seals on the trp brake housing. I took mine apart and re-built it. There was a tiny leak. Since then and after bleeding, now absolutely perfect. I could see oil on the rear housing when I squeezed the brake lever.
TorEddy
100 W
I had a ride on the LMX64 today, and now i noticed that me as well have a strange sound coming from the crank/motor area.
I can feel the vibration from the noise in the pedals, and its not there when motor is not engaged.
I would not call it a ticking sound, but more of an unpleasant crunching sound/feel, and its there during throttle only as well.
I can imagine this is how a broken ball bearing would feel.
If I'm not mistaken, LMX changes the motor bearings to SKF bearings, so i doubt it's them..
What else can it be?
I can feel the vibration from the noise in the pedals, and its not there when motor is not engaged.
I would not call it a ticking sound, but more of an unpleasant crunching sound/feel, and its there during throttle only as well.
I can imagine this is how a broken ball bearing would feel.
If I'm not mistaken, LMX changes the motor bearings to SKF bearings, so i doubt it's them..
What else can it be?
briangv99
1 kW
TorEddy said:
Worth checking the motor bearing anyway, there's always a chance some grit of dirt has got past the seals.
If the crunch feel is coming through the pedals, it could well be bottom bracket bearings.
