E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Joe]

The firmware up-date didn‘t work for me.
OK.My battery wasn‘t fully charged. I didn‘t think this would make a difference.
After the up-date I had a 1000wh battery. I changed to 850wh, but the charge was still saying 850 (fully charged) but I know I had only 275wh left. I loaded my config but still saying 850wh. The rest I‘ll forget right now.
I‘ve taken the battery out and started to charge.
Why couldn‘t the software know what I had left in the tank. I‘ll try again tomorrow.
Also after the first installation the controller was called 15. After a second attempt the controller was again 10??
I had the flash card in all the time. Maybe I should have removed it before the save.
Does the battery have to be fully charged before this firmware up-date?

 

[Joe]

Found and fixed the low clicking noise.

Pushing the bike backwards the click could be heard.

Removed the belt, cover and pulley wheel. Inspected everything and re-installed.
The clicking is now gone.

I suppose.

The Woodruff square key had moved a little. The tension on the belt is high and this tiny movement on the shaft caused the noise.

Now when I push the bike backward, there is no noise.
Suggestion. The pulley wheel cover needs to have a deeper middle. One which fits right up the the shaft. At the moment the cover is leaving a space between the shaft and the the cover allowing the key to move out of position. Also use higher quality allen bolts. The soft aluminum bolts are too soft. I‘ve already had to replace 4 and they are a pain in the neck to remove once the allen key has turned.

 

[hkj]

Joe, when did you hear the noise, under which conditions? For me, there's no noise at all when running the motor without me on it like if I run it with the bike on a stand it sounds normal. Running the bike only on throttle barely makes the noise, but with me pedaling hard, I definitely hear it. Started to hear this last time I was out riding and could hear it today as well.

I'm gonna do as you suggested and remove the cover for the front sprocket, make sure the key and the sprocket is fully fitted and also check the rear sprocket. My main concern is that I hear the noise coming from the motor.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The firmware update seems to reset the display and restoring config only applies to the controller. So you'll have to reconfigure the display settings.
The PAS scale setting seems to only control the speed at which PAS cuts out... It doesn't effect the power of it like I hoped.
I've also found my mode 1/2 speed has dropped to 35kp/h. Need to investigate further.
Cheers

 

[Joe]

Joe, when did you hear the noise, under which conditions? For me, there's no noise at all when running the motor without me on it like if I run it with the bike on a stand it sounds normal. Running the bike only on throttle barely makes the noise, but with me pedaling hard, I definitely hear it. Started to hear this last time I was out riding and could hear it today as well.

I'm gonna do as you suggested and remove the cover for the front sprocket, make sure the key and the sprocket is fully fitted and also check the rear sprocket. My main concern is that I hear the noise coming from the motor.

Mine sounded like the motor bearing was clicking. The frame would have this noise. Using the old screwdriver trick to listen to the motor, I was convinced the motor bearing was clicking. I just walk the bike backwards with my ear on the screwdriver.
After removing the belt, the motor shaft felt perfect. Spinning it per hand and trying to find any movement. Nothing. I am quite sure the pulley wheel was wobbling on the shaft. After the key was again fully inserted and everything tight. The noise was gone. It only takes 5 mins to take apart and put back together, if you use a gear/bearing puller, to get the pulley wheel off.
Also my peddle chain needs more cleaning and some oil. This too is noisy. (Rattles)

 

[hkj]

You where right Joe! A loose front sprocket was the issue for me. I removed the cover plate and could see that the key was not fully seated. Gave the sprocket and the key a whack and went for a ride. Now it's silent again. Glad it was an easy fix!

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Yep this is why we install them with some thread lock, that makes it hard to remove the sproket sometimes but prevents this noise.
Adam

 

[hkj]

OK, next time it happens I'll apply some.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Ok, I've sorted out the speed issue after firmware update...again.
Similarly to last time, my wheel size reset, so putting it back to the 27.5 (wheel) x 2.8 (tire) which is 2281mm had it back to 39-40kph. Still not ideal, so I did another auto-detect for the motor. After a bit of a stuff up where it could not spin the motor for the angle correction, I tried again and got a good motor tune and it now spins at 43kph at nominal voltage of 52V. Roughly back to where it was...actually a bit better.

Mode 3 at 150% field weakening and 50A boost is a bit insane I turned it down to 35A boost which is a bit more reasonable.

It makes me think a 16S battery would be better, but I probably won't do that as I don't like going over 60V DC or 14S for safety reasons.

Speaking of batteries...sorry to disappoint, but I'm probably not going to do my 2Kwh battery any more. I have 14 pouch cells I ordered specifically for it, but they are slightly too large to fit like I hoped, and I have another project they are going to be perfect for. I will probably see if I can do it with slightly smaller cells instead, which will probably mean only 1.5Kwh, but we'll see.

Cheers

 

[jimmywazer]

Ok, I've sorted out the speed issue after firmware update...again.
Similarly to last time, my wheel size reset, so putting it back to the 27.5 (wheel) x 2.8 (tire) which is 2281mm had it back to 39-40kph. Still not ideal, so I did another auto-detect for the motor. After a bit of a stuff up where it could not spin the motor for the angle correction, I tried again and got a good motor tune and it now spins at 43kph at nominal voltage of 52V. Roughly back to where it was...actually a bit better.

Mode 3 at 150% field weakening and 50A boost is a bit insane I turned it down to 35A boost which is a bit more reasonable.

It makes me think a 16S battery would be better, but I probably won't do that as I don't like going over 60V DC or 14S for safety reasons.

Speaking of batteries...sorry to disappoint, but I'm probably not going to do my 2Kwh battery any more. I have 14 pouch cells I ordered specifically for it, but they are slightly too large to fit like I hoped, and I have another project they are going to be perfect for. I will probably see if I can do it with slightly smaller cells instead, which will probably mean only 1.5Kwh, but we'll see.

Cheers

Hey I'll happily buy a 1.5kwh battery from you if you manage to get one together!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hey I'll happily buy a 1.5kwh battery from you if you manage to get one together!

And I would gladly make you one...if you were in Australia.
Unfortunately, although it's quite easy to buy/import lithium for us, it is next to impossible for a small guy like me to export anything.
I have tried (hard) several times and no shipping company wants anything to do with me unless I am regularly shifting large amounts, and meet some ridiculously strict criteria. The only other way is if it's inside a bike, and I've even looked into buying large/cheap ebike frames just so I can ship the batteries I build "inside a bike", but by that stage your looking at $1000-$2000 just for shipping so it's not worth it.
I will happily share my plans for how I do it...once I figure it all out. Brian has actually already done some of this work for me...he reckons we can easily fit 14S7P using 18650's in the frame if we ditch the shark case form factor.
I'm also going to explore 21700's and pouch cells to see what works best...when I have time.
These were what I already ordered and was going to try: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32974873177.html?
The problem with them is they are slightly too thick meaning I could only fit 9 across, not the 10 I had hoped. They also barely fit length way's so the cell tabs are almost touching the frame. Add in connectors, wiring, padding, etc. and it was just not going to be worth the risk IMO.
Something slightly shorter and much thinner would be perfect to cram 14 across the width, but unfortunately there is no way to search for lithium pouch cells purely based on dimensions. It took me many hours of searching before I settles on these and they haven't ended up working.

Anyway...I went for an awesome ride with Brian on the weekend, smashing a bunch of tight, twisty single track. Both our bikes performed brilliantly with no issues at all.


No video, but we did notice something...blue is not necessarily blue!


It's a bit hard to tell in this photo, but the shades of blue between my bike and Brian's are not the same. Mine appears to be a deeper blue, whereas Brian's is more pale.
They both look awesome though IMO. They also both ride nice and quiet with belts on both now.

I also noticed mine is noticeably heavier (2-3KG) than Brian's when lifting it into his ute. Probably due to the extra kit I have loaded on it with tools, spares, kits, and mud-guards, and the thick tube I'm now running up front after I gave up on getting it to work tubeless.

Cheers

 

[hkj]

Would Locktight 660 be suitable for the key for the front sprocket?

 

[briangv99]

just to add to CDs post, can see the slight colour difference a bit more clearly here

 

[Rix]

just to add to CDs post, can see the slight colour difference a bit more clearly here
IMG_20200906_134741_copy_1152x528.jpg

I see the difference, both bikes look great. I like the orange blue combo. Until I saw it, I didn't think those colors would go good together. They do.

 

[jimmywazer]

Got my first ride with the 40mm motor and I must say the difference is huge! No more overheating even on the most technical climbs going full moto... I had to set the field weakening from 30A to 60A to get the same top speed as before (58km/h). And I have a weird "squeaking" noise when I push down my rear suspension... can't tell where it's coming from. Lubed all screws of the sus mount and the tension spring of the chain tensioner... Any advice?

 

[TorEddy]

Got my first ride with the 40mm motor and I must say the difference is huge! No more overheating even on the most technical climbs going full moto... I had to set the field weakening from 30A to 60A to get the same top speed as before (58km/h). And I have a weird "squeaking" noise when I push down my rear suspension... can't tell where it's coming from. Lubed all screws of the sus mount and the tension spring of the chain tensioner... Any advice?

Cool to hear you are happy with the new motor.
But what are the actual differences? What does the measurement 30mm and 40mm refer to?
Is there any difference when riding except for the new motor not overheating?
I guess all new LMX64 is 40mm? and all pre 2020 is 30mm?
What controller are you using?

 

[briangv99]

What does the measurement 30mm and 40mm refer to?

That would be the stator/rotor width Eddy. More copper and active material should mean less heat produced for the same torque. The downsides are weight, width and greater core losses from the extra width.

 

[briangv99]

I like the orange blue combo. Until I saw it, I didn't think those colors would go good together. They do.

Glad the colours don't clash

Figured when I built it I needed something to distinguish it from CDs bike. Also don't mind a bit of bling that the Fox Factory suspension gives it.

 

[hkj]

For those of you who might have an issue with setting not being saved in the Nucular, I have an update. I contacted Nucular support and learned something interesting. In order to have settings permanently saved, apparently the following action is needed.

1. Go to Update Settings, select erase data storage

2. Make configuration changes.

3. Save settings.

Anyone tried this yet? I hope it works, I'm not in the mood of loosing all my settings

 

[Cowardlyduck]

A detour on the way home from work. Bike's working great!






My only complaint (still) is that I can only enjoy this bike for a limited time with it's (relative to my previous bike's) short range.
I must take some of the blame for that though...blasting to work in the morning in mode 3 sure does suck a lot of battery!

Cheers

 

[Rix]

Nice CD, the Roos in the background must like your bike as they can't stop staring at it.

 

[hkj]

Went together with my friend to the local enduro track (for motorcycles..) today. Jees that was about the toughest riding I've ever done. Deep mud, wet, slippery roots, deep sand, rocks and steep hills.

Despite this, I managed to complete a lap of the track, 15 min or something vs my friend on his KTM Freeride Electric. Think he did the lap in 6 minutes . I was sweating buckets! Anyhow, me and the bike are intact except for a few buckets of mud and sand.

 

[jimmywazer]

Nice to hear it's possible how did the battery last you? and were you in the highest mode full moto? Guess that would've been a job for the 161

 

[iacei]

Hi Folks!

I have a LMX64T with Nucular controller and I would like to add something I did not see in this thread.
My goal was to make the bike "legal" with a flip of a switch in case of a Cop encounter when on the road as I had with my LMX81 + Cycle Analyst.

After a bit of fiddling this is what I ended up with, which suits me completely:

Up switch on handle bar sets S1 (25km/h + pedal assist + Thumb Throttle)
Down switch on handle bar sets S2 (25km/h + No pedal assist + Thumb Throttle)
4th Display Button long press sets S3 (full speed no pedal assist)

If I encounter a Cop on S3 I simply turn OFF the bike by using the middle button on the handle bar and if a cop wants to test the bike it will boot in S1 and he willl only be able to put it in S2. I can also disable the S3 by pressing the 4th button on the display.

For this config you have to change settings in the display config + the controller config.

For the throttle not stopping as soon as you stop pedaling or using the thumb-throttle I played with acceleration up and down rate and it worked wonders.

My current nucular controller version is 0.57b

Cheers

 

[benjamin84]

There are more and more articles popping up calling out illegal e-bikes here, and I'm sure that is the case elsewhere too. Would it be possible to set up a key system for the bike where you can set it in legal-mode, locking out all illegal power modes, and then in power mode?

That way I could have the bike in legal mode for road riding, and power-mode when I'm on private property. There are some legit insurance related concerns here that are unfortunately driving me towards getting a regular e-bike despite the LMX-64 being a MUCH better solution.