E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

Ok, I did some more testing today.

I discovered that although I thought I had set 150% speed for mode 3 previously, it hadn't actually saved. So the 46kph I was seeing was based of the value it had before which was 124%...no idea why it was set to that btw.

Anyway, I tried setting 130% and 45A FW and it reaches 50kph now. I also tried 140%, but it barely makes it over 50kph down a slight hill and the amps is dropping off, so I don't think it really wants to go any faster than that.

What is the stock mode 3 speed from LMX? 130%?

Also, I'm using a 2.8" tire on the rear. I would expect this to increase my speed, but could it be messing with my wheel diameter settings? I probably need to change that value.

While I was at it, I explored some of the new settings in the updated firmware. I used the advanced mode settings to disable PAS in mode 3 as I found it too dangerous and unpredictable with the delays in PAS activating/deactivating. I also toned down my PAS level to 75% from 85% as it was too much even in mode 2.
I have mode 1 set to around 850W and mode 2 is around 1850W. Mode 3 is the full 50A or 2600W, but will push nearly 3KW hot off the charger. I've played around increasing it to 55-60A, and it's nice, but the battery heats up pretty quick and it's not good for the cells, so I toned it back down to 50A.

What do others have their modes set to?

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Yes teh stock speed 3 is 130%.
I think the speed stuck at 124% is a known bug, you can ask the nucular team about this.
Adam

 

[TorEddy]

@bzhwindtalker

Are there any other advantages to the new Silixcon controller besides the immediate start and stop of the motor when pedal power is applied?

 

[Joe]

Can't help you with the dropper Simon, but I will say that my Brand-X ASCEND II 125mm Dropper has more than enough travel for me.

I am about 170cm tall and with the seat-post clamped as low as is possible with the rear shock, I rarely lower it completely and never need the full height either.

An update on my belt drive. It's still going strong, with lots of bombing around my local area and back streets. Here's some pics:
DSC_5910.JPG

The belt is clearly wearing away on this roller, but nothing too concerning yet.
DSC_5911.JPG

The spring is contacting the frame, but I have frame protection here so not too concerned. Should I be?
DSC_5912.JPG

These two photo's show the top sprocket guide and where it contacts the outer sprocket cover. If you look closely you can see where it's slowly wearing away the guide and the aluminium cover.
DSC_5913.JPG
DSC_5914.JPG
I think it will eventually just 'wear in' so not too concerned. It's just a slightly annoying sound in the mean time.

I should also add, I dropped my mode 3 phase amps down slightly to 180. I might bump it back up later, but for now this is enough for me.

Cheers

Hello Cowardlyduck
I too had this scrapping of the belt tensioner and spent some time a couple of weeks ago to fix it straight away. Sorry I didn‘t read your post earlier.
Anyway. Remove the belt, Remove the wheel, add the belt tensioner holding clamp, remove the belt tensioner bracket. Add a 0.5mm washer under the bracket at the first screw position. This tilts the bracket away from the belt guide ring. The screw has to be filed before fitting, or it will be scraping. Take about 1mm off the top of the screw.
See pictures. I had firstly tried a 1mm washer, but this was too much. When tightening the bracket up, hold the bracket up, to gain as much of the slack movement in the bracket to lift it up away from the belt tensioner. The spring needs to sit clear of the guide. (Pic 5) I rotated it, but it always loads up-side down.
First pic shows it touching.
Second pic shows the improvement.
Third pic shows the filed screw head. Look carefully at the head top. It‘s filed to give more room.
The forth pic shows the 0.5mm washer in-between frame and bracket. This tilts the bracket.
These tiny little changes and the tensioner bracket is contact free. Been riding for 2 weeks without any problems.

One other thing, when you next take your rear wheel off, grease the freewheel bearings with lots of special silicon grease. I used fomblin vacuum grease, but I am sure another will do the job as well. The freewheel clicking will disappear. Make sure to get the grease right into the clickers.(ratchets) This is a massive noise reduction, because it only stops clicking when you peddle.
If you watch your video, look at the drop in the meter when you apply the rear brake.

 

[KarlJ]

it IS exactly 10kph when you switch from 14/100 to 12/100

@CD, I see Merlin answered the reason why for my questions to you. I guy my size would gladly sacrifice a 6MPH in top speed to get faster acceleration and hill climbing improvement.

Seems true as the Crystalyte UFO 5565 is MUCH more punchy off the line but taps out 10km/hr or so less than the 5403 and YES I agree. but we're still talking 90km/hr vs 100km/hr for that not down in the 50-60km/hr range. if i was down there then yeah thinking that 10km/hr loss would suck and hence why stealth to LMX CD will be hurting for more speed.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hello Cowardlyduck
I too had this scrapping of the belt tensioner and spent some time a couple of weeks ago to fix it straight away.

Thanks Joe!
That sounds like a lot of effort to go to...I will have to try and find some time to fully understand what you did and try and replicate it...but that won't be for a while...flat out atm.
Thanks again!

Seems true as the Crystalyte UFO 5565 is MUCH more punchy off the line but taps out 10km/hr or so less than the 5403 and YES I agree. but we're still talking 90km/hr vs 100km/hr for that not down in the 50-60km/hr range. if i was down there then yeah thinking that 10km/hr loss would suck and hence why stealth to LMX CD will be hurting for more speed.

It's not quite that bad really. I don't mind the drop in speed for this bike too much for several reasons.
-It's more stealthy than my Stealth so much easier to go unnoticed, but only if speed isn't too high
-The increased torque more than makes up for it
-I can still get over 50kph (just) if I use mode 3 with some field weakening

Also TBH, I've had my fun doing stupid speeds on the Stealth, but I'm lucky to be alive from some of the situations it put me in. Things can come unstuck real fast at 80kph in the bush. I'm (mostly) done with that now...there is just as much fun to be had at 40kph in the right setting.

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Thanks for the pictures and feeback, we are now working on V2 belt kits with a few improvements. We added 2 teeth to the back sproket to increase tension with the same 1728mm belts and have the tensionner further away from the swingarm and have a fixed end stop. We worked with gates to check the teeth profiles and calculate the torque handling and tension.
Our test bike has around 200km so far with no signs of damage to the belt.
Adam

 

[madin88]

@bzhwindtalker

Are there any other advantages to the new Silixcon controller besides the immediate start and stop of the motor when pedal power is applied?

Some time ago i started a thread here about Silixcon controllers:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98246

Maybe Adam want's to answer the questions there.
I would like to know more about the unit with Display and PAS as it might be useable for DIY conversions.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for the pictures and feeback, we are now working on V2 belt kits with a few improvements. We added 2 teeth to the back sproket to increase tension with the same 1728mm belts and have the tensionner further away from the swingarm and have a fixed end stop. We worked with gates to check the teeth profiles and calculate the torque handling and tension.
Our test bike has around 200km so far with no signs of damage to the belt.
Adam

Is there an easier way to modify the existing tensioner than what Joe posted above? Or am I looking at getting the new tensioner design to stop it scraping?

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

The thing is there is some twist of the swingarm section happening due to the welding in this area. This is not someting we noticed or had to check before. you could try to remove the outside flange and run it without, that is what I am testing in the latest vlog.
You will gain 1-1.5mm of clearance there.

[youtube]4CtlC_u3vww[/youtube]

 

[TorEddy]

I love the urban riding, and it looks like a really nice park you have there.
I also love how you keep improving the bike in every way.
I'm really happy with the geometry and suspension of the bike, but what could need some improvements is the pas riding and noise, exactly what you are working on!
On my ride today i kept noticing how the motor not always assists like it should. Sometimes it takes more time before the motor kicks in when you start from stadstill. I hope this will be improved with the Silixcon controller.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for the update Adam.

I might try removing the outer flange and see how it goes.

I don't want to switch controllers. Is there anything that can be done on the Nucular to improve the delay?

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I finally got around to putting together the ride video myself and Brianv99 did the other week.
You can clearly hear the noise of the belt, but it's nothing compared to what it used to be like with the chain. You can also hear the scraping of the outer flange. I'm hoping removing it fixes this when I get around to trying it.
Enjoy!
[youtube]UrR8CyrqVKY[/youtube]

Cheers

 

[Simonten]

Thanks CW for the vid, the hub drive looks pretty quick on the flat but i bet you would have him on the climb. The sound seems really good in my opinion

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks CW for the vid, the hub drive looks pretty quick on the flat but i bet you would have him on the climb. The sound seems really good in my opinion

Yeah exactly right. The hub was certainly a handful in those tight twisty sections, but caught right up on the straights.
What we found interesting is they were pretty evenly matched, even though I think the hub was pushing 4-5KW and the LMX just 1.5-2.5KW.

What wasn't shown (because the footage was just a shaky mess) was the rest of that hill climb near the beginning. That's where I overheated the motor previously...but not this time with the belt.

Now it's time for me to sell my Fighter. This LMX is just too good...why would I wanna ride that pig of a Fighter any more.

Cheers

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Two 64 had very good results in the ebike desert challenge over the exxes bikes and likes. Took first and 6th places.
some pics :

Results :
http://download.ebike-desert-challenge.com/overall.pdf

 

[bzhwindtalker]

[youtube]mt1HLKiKYdU[/youtube]

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Looks like fun.

That video was so strange... they just looked like they were having a blast riding around aimlessly for most of it. Definitely looked like fun, but where was the challenge?
Maybe I'm missing something or there's a language barrier. :lol:

Cheers

 

[Merlin]

https://www.desert-challenge.com/en/

 

[briangv99]

Thanks CW for the vid, the hub drive looks pretty quick on the flat but i bet you would have him on the climb. The sound seems really good in my opinion

Hi Simon, I'm the rider on the hub bike and had a the chance to ride CD's LMX64. My hub bike, an old DH cromo frame bike (Keewee) from the early 2000's with a MXUS45, is surprisingly strong for hill climbing. 30 degree hills are possible without overheating, 100A battery and 250 phase setting on a 12f Infineon does wonders for torque. Where the hub can't compare to the LMX is with traction and control over rocky/rooty single tracks, where the hub bike becomes a bucking/bouncing monster. On those parts of the trail the LMX scoots off into the distance giving confidence to push that much harder and faster.

 

[hkj]

Well shit.. Today my bike gave up on me.
A cable from the brakes going into the Nucular display unit came loose, and the actual connector pin broke off. Probably due to the cable vibrating loose. The pull protection for the cable was insufficient or not properly installed. After soldering that back together I noticed that the power button thingie on the handlebar was very glitchy, until it gave up completely. Bad timing.. Hope I get some spare parts soon!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

That sucks hkj.
I also noticed my handlebar switch is a bit problematic.
It randomly drops down a power level sometimes and the buttons are hard to press and don't always respond.
That's why I ordered a second one when I bought some parts from LMX a while back. Still haven't swapped over to the new one yet, but testing it off the bike it does feel better than my current.

Cheers

 

[hkj]

Since the bike is under warranty 2 year in EU I expect/hope the new parts to be sent for free once they open shop on Monday. I can't see myself being the one causing it.

Hopefully it's a quick replacement and I don't have to replace the Nucular controller..
The more I use the bike the more impressed I am with it. Fantastic bike!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The more I use the bike the more impressed I am with it. Fantastic bike!

Yes it is...so much so that my love affair with Stealth is about to come to an end as I sell my Fighter...the bike that got me started on it all over 9 years ago!

Hey Adam, can you provide some more details on the battery mounting on the underside of the frame from the desert challenge photo's above?
It looks like you figured out a way to make a second battery fit without the front wheel travel being effected. It does look like it could be a problem for clearance over obstacles though...I would be afraid of smashing the battery on a log or rock I hop over.

Cheers

 

[bikerpete]

I've just received my LMX motor and am pulling it apart in order to redesign the end plates for my particular layout.

I got the front bearing off the shaft without too much difficulty (backed out the case bolts, sat the motor on the heads then drove out the shaft with a soft face hammer. Made an extractor to pull it once the initial bond was broken)

The rear bearing is proving a little more difficult.
I haven't tried heat yet, just holding the shaft in soft jaws in the vice and using a punch through the rotor - not a very nice (or successful) technique.

Does anyone have any good techniques?