E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter Rodney64
- Start date
Archer said:
well a mid drive allows a hub motor to spin at higher RPMs and use gearing to reduce RPMs for more mechanical advantage great for climbing......a Hinebrink bike with similar set up they said could do 80 mph its the same principle that allows a tiny turbine engine to hold up a helicopter...
the only disadvantage I can think of is more weight and complexity from the gearing but to get the same performance from hub motor you have to go to a bigger hub motor which is more weight (and more power drain)..and no brake regen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YepQZr_9Itc
Rix
100 TW
At Rodney or Korpin
When you guys installed your Schlumpf high speed drivse on your Phasors, I remember you custom ordered it to fit the Phasor's bottom bracket. Do you guys recall the details on that? I got a guy that contacted me via PM who asked for the component lists I put together a while back, he specifically asked about getting a Schumpf high speed over drive for the Phasor and I cant remember the details. Thanks in advance.
Rick
When you guys installed your Schlumpf high speed drivse on your Phasors, I remember you custom ordered it to fit the Phasor's bottom bracket. Do you guys recall the details on that? I got a guy that contacted me via PM who asked for the component lists I put together a while back, he specifically asked about getting a Schumpf high speed over drive for the Phasor and I cant remember the details. Thanks in advance.
Rick
Rix said:
SG-HSP HIGH SPEED DRIVE
SG-603100 CHAINRING 30T
SG-606080 CONES 1AXLU AND 1XSTEEL
CRANKARMS STRAIGHT 170MM SILVER
EASY SHIFT LEVERS
SG-605400 TROUSER GUARD
SG-810000 LUBE
SG-603400 EXTERNALLY TOOTHED ADAPTER HSD
SG-100400 AXLE L187 (FLYKE)
SG-110400 SHIFTING SHAFT FOR AXLE FLYKE L 200 MM
SG-120400 TUBE BOX FOR FLYKE
do not forget chamfer
Rix
100 TW
Thanks Korpin, I will pass that along.
have an usual problem thought someone here might know...my bike will not go over 46 mph...I set CA for 40 amps and did a few high speed runs at the end of day it said max amps was only 25...
on my Lyen controller the phase current amps are set at 100 and rated current amps at 45 and throttle is set at 120%
on my Lyen controller the phase current amps are set at 100 and rated current amps at 45 and throttle is set at 120%
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Rodney64
100 kW
Korpin what's your maximum C rate discharge of your pack. 40 amps is not high. (40 amps times the voltage and from memory that was 115v which is only 4.6 kilowatt. This isn't enough to get you above 50mph. You need more kilowatt, or try a different type of controller that increases the lead angle. this will only work when the motor is at its maximum motor speed and not wind resistance. My crystalyte controller always seemed to have more top speed than my lyen controller. Your lyen controller has 4115 mossets correct.
Allex
100 MW
Just flash it for 45Amps, It is the stock setting on it. I dont really understand why you have so low amps on you setup?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18605
CA cannot really control amps(make it higher than the controller is programmed for). it is all up to the controller itself. But CA can limit them!
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18605
CA cannot really control amps(make it higher than the controller is programmed for). it is all up to the controller itself. But CA can limit them!
Allex
100 MW
Number one is to check your rshunt value in CA and adjust it correctly for Lyen controller, you could mail him and ask about the correct value. With wrong value the CA will display wrong readings.
Number two is to insure that you use the right software. With some software, when you flash it with 40Amps in real word it would be programmed with lower value. So sometimes you need to flash it with 60 or so. To get to the real 40. Lyen can provide you with the correct info on software.
Number two is to insure that you use the right software. With some software, when you flash it with 40Amps in real word it would be programmed with lower value. So sometimes you need to flash it with 60 or so. To get to the real 40. Lyen can provide you with the correct info on software.
Allex
100 MW
You mean Rodney? I think he does get around 50mph on his 90Volts. But he is running adaptto controller.
All I can say is if you want speed and torque it is better to use low wound motor. It will handle the current better and will be fast and you dont have to use crazy high voltage packs - those things are in the past.
All I can say is if you want speed and torque it is better to use low wound motor. It will handle the current better and will be fast and you dont have to use crazy high voltage packs - those things are in the past.
Rix
100 TW
korpin said:
Korpin, if I recall correctly, you mentioned a while back that your HPC4065 was specifically Spec'd by HPC for high Voltage. Kind of wondering if your motor has an extra turn on the stator winds? That would also explain why you are not seeing 4-5MPH faster top speeds.
Decided to move my controller...when HPC replaced their unit (which only goes to 108 volts max) with the Lyen 18 they ran lead wires underneath the frame instead of THROUGH the back port so it looked horrible and got hit on the trail....I removed box from controller and put heat sink directly to frame....
ONE THING I did not think of...the phasor panels partially cover the heat sink area of frame but I will see how it goes
feel more confident going through water now
ONE THING I did not think of...the phasor panels partially cover the heat sink area of frame but I will see how it goes
feel more confident going through water now
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one thing nice about these Shinko tires....you can ride 'em almost with no air - I have never really filled my tires for the last year or so....used up all my juice bike seemed a little bit harder to pedal than normal had less than 10 pounds in rear tire about 7 in front nice thick sidewalls keep them up!!
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yeah if batteries were liquid you could fit a ton in there, but its unfair to think you'd ever get close, and wouldnt be practical. I thought I'd do something a bit more productive and show how many you can likely fit under most normal circumstances.
my criteria is that it has to easily fit in the frame and have room for padding. The following is the best I could find keeping clearances. the tightest fit is the single pack as it just clears into the frame. The also takes into acount the narrowing of the frame as it approaches the headtube.
Ive picked the 18650's for a safer chemestry. This would be run on a cromotor through a mini-e (in the 40-60amp range for what it pulls i believe)
my biggest question in my configurations is how do you charge it? I'm still learning about batteries, especially how to charge the batteries so they remain balanced. So I'm unsure how to go about setting up a charging station (most chargers seem preset to the voltage of the pack you buy). I'm trying to have something that means I never need to take the battery out of the frame.
Most online kits are "heres the battery, and heres the charger that you hook it up to." not sure how to charge if I had custom batteries made.
As you can see the single battery would be easiest, but also offers the least power/range from my custom setups. could someone help me understanding charging multiple batteries in frame?
pack voltages shown are nominal voltages. highest charged voltage is at 88 (staying under the mini-e's limit)
my criteria is that it has to easily fit in the frame and have room for padding. The following is the best I could find keeping clearances. the tightest fit is the single pack as it just clears into the frame. The also takes into acount the narrowing of the frame as it approaches the headtube.
Ive picked the 18650's for a safer chemestry. This would be run on a cromotor through a mini-e (in the 40-60amp range for what it pulls i believe)
my biggest question in my configurations is how do you charge it? I'm still learning about batteries, especially how to charge the batteries so they remain balanced. So I'm unsure how to go about setting up a charging station (most chargers seem preset to the voltage of the pack you buy). I'm trying to have something that means I never need to take the battery out of the frame.
Most online kits are "heres the battery, and heres the charger that you hook it up to." not sure how to charge if I had custom batteries made.
As you can see the single battery would be easiest, but also offers the least power/range from my custom setups. could someone help me understanding charging multiple batteries in frame?
pack voltages shown are nominal voltages. highest charged voltage is at 88 (staying under the mini-e's limit)
Allex
100 MW
Given that you will use Adaptto controller, the charge thing should be one of you minor concerns.
It has the charge and BMS capabilitys, why even think about another charging solution? That is the beauty of Adaptto, install once and forget for ever, just plug in, charge and ride.
The best way is to make several briks, take 7s in each as an example and then connect 3 of them in series to make 21s just like in your picture. The rest will adaptto take care of, balancing, cut off and charging...all 3 of them at the same time.
It has the charge and BMS capabilitys, why even think about another charging solution? That is the beauty of Adaptto, install once and forget for ever, just plug in, charge and ride.
The best way is to make several briks, take 7s in each as an example and then connect 3 of them in series to make 21s just like in your picture. The rest will adaptto take care of, balancing, cut off and charging...all 3 of them at the same time.
Allex, makes sense. I think I'm getting it now. I had been thinking about it from the point of view of big batteries with bms installed. but I supposed I can just make 7s 2p packs with balance leads and then make the rats next of balance connectors to attach to the adapto, thats what your suggesting right?
When I had started looking at the hipower 74v 13ah battery I was gonna say screw it and just buy the charger that goes with that battery and forget the adapto's bms
maybe now that I'm looking at custom packs I can start thinking about that again.
how about this. to make it easier to connect to the adapto I could do it like this
4s9p packs, 5 of them, giving me a 20s9p pack. that way easy to hook up to the adapto. the wiring for 6s gets me confused quick. this way can keep it 4s
When I had started looking at the hipower 74v 13ah battery I was gonna say screw it and just buy the charger that goes with that battery and forget the adapto's bms
maybe now that I'm looking at custom packs I can start thinking about that again.
how about this. to make it easier to connect to the adapto I could do it like this
4s9p packs, 5 of them, giving me a 20s9p pack. that way easy to hook up to the adapto. the wiring for 6s gets me confused quick. this way can keep it 4s
you may not need all those batteries wingsuit...I have two 52 volt 13 AH batteries in series....I can go 30 miles with climbing and lots of high speed (over 40 mph) runs.....OR I can put them in parallel for slower long distance....
also the weight may become an issue with all those batteries...my bike is around 98 pounds now
also the weight may become an issue with all those batteries...my bike is around 98 pounds now
