E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Rod, your blue phasor is going to look neat with the rim and tire combo. I really like how that shaping up. That white on white frame looks better than I though it would. Man, you will have a garage with super trick Phasors :mrgreen: .

Rick
 
Hey Rod how do the the polished side panels fit? Better than the plastic? Really like how they look on your frame.
 
Insider said:
Yesterday received my frame!

Looks VERY beautifull! :D

View attachment 2

With 9 LiFepo4 Zippies:

View attachment 1

But unfortunately I found a mismatch :(
Suspension bolt does not fit the appropriate hole (~1mm mismatch)



Insider, I had same problem with suspension bolt.
Try to fit it through other side, might go in. I had to sand it down for a few minutes to get it to fit.
 
Insider, your new frame looks super trick with the carbon fiber panels. What do you plan on using for a hub motor? Are those the 4s 8400mAH packs from Hobbyking? Looks like a perfect fit 8)

Rick
 
Scratch1973 said:
Hey Rod how do the the polished side panels fit? Better than the plastic? Really like how they look on your frame.


The aluminium panels fit similar to the plastic but look neater as they're not as thick. The frame wouldnt be water proof. Sealing the frame similar to what Cowardlyduck did to his fighter if riding in heavy rain would be an option.
 
Well when I had my first phasor frame I noticed that the plastic side panels seemed to bubble up in some areas and didn't sit flush on the frame. I was curious if it was that way with the aluminum as well
 
Scratch1973 said:
Well when I had my first phasor frame I noticed that the plastic side panels seemed to bubble up in some areas and didn't sit flush on the frame. I was curious if it was that way with the aluminum as well

Scratch the panels are tight. But there are some areas where it's not siting flush to the frame. Yesterday I purchased a 1/4 inch T-bar elen key to help with fitting he side panels.
 
I've changed all my connections from Andersons to the 6mm bullet XT160.

So I'll see how these go. Also changed the phase wire from the controller to the 3580 wires to 8 guage. I'm also looking for better phase wire to the 4080 from the motor which handles the heat better but will still go though the axle which is better than the crystalytes.

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Today I fitted my Lyens 18 fet controller. Will be interesting to see the difference in performance from the Lyens 12 fet.

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I have also changed my front brake to a Shimano dual control level. I had this set up on the Norco.

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A close up shot of the side panels. As I said previously the T-bars a good investment for installing the side panels.

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All coming together nicely. Still need to remove the andersons from the main isolaton switch and solder on the 6mm bullets install the 3 speed switch and throttle. Hope to be testing the new controller during the week.

Still need to bleed the brakes which is a first for me.

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dimpirate said:
Anyone using a kickstand on phasor??
What kind?


dimpirate I fitted a kickstand today had to modify as it wasn't longer enough. Had an old kickstand which I used to lengthen it.

Not sure what brand it is but its working ok without batteries the test will be when it has another 10 kilo of batteries.

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I wasn't sure where to mount it on the frame but forward on the frame has been a good result.

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Still 25mm to the wheel and pedal.

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Those ally side covers look the goods! I reckon you will get some added strength there too, which is important given the light material it's made of.

I've still got a stack of bullet connectors if you wanted to use them. Have you upgraded the phase wire connectors to bullets?

Edit - I pressed the UP arrow a few times and found the answer :roll: :lol:
 
Yes I've upgraded them Chris. Hoping that they will handle the heat better than the andersons. Yes I may need to use some of your bullets down the track. Been interesting using solder but I'm improving. Purchased a gas iron from Jaycar. Works really well.
 
Hammerhead tip for your soldering iron is the trick with bigger guage wires. CHRiS gave
me a nice Weller 200watt iron, i used it for the first time last week soldering
6mm bullets to 8 gauge phase wires, it makes reeeeeal short work of it gets
the solder soo freakin hot...

Bike looks good anywayz Rodney, look forward to seeing it in person soon... ;)

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Hammerhead tip for your soldering iron is the trick with bigger guage wires. CHRiS gave
me a nice Weller 200watt iron, i used it for the first time last week soldering
6mm bullets to 8 gauge phase wires, it makes reeeeeal short work of it gets
the solder soo freakin hot...

Bike looks good anywayz Rodney, look forward to seeing it in person soon... ;)

KiM

Actually it was only an 80 W iron, but the big hammer head means you can store (and dump) a lot of heat very quickly. It takes a while to warm up though. I can lend you a pair of 200 W irons if you need them ;)

Caution: Chris' 200 W irons may cause electrocution.
 
Thanks for the kickstand pics Rodney!
Didn't think of that method. Drilling into bottom of frame. I actually have a two leg kickstand laying around at home. Going on a trip for a few days. When I get back ill give it a shot.
Should have some goodies waiting for me when I get home.
-high speed schlumpf ordered
-jrh should have wheel build done an shipped in next few days.
-hobby king packs are on the way. Once I get them get exact measurements for ice cube battery harness. Some hvc/lvc 4S boards from methods and I should be good to go :D
Apart from seat, pedals, other little stuff....
 
Rod, I really like the blue with the aluminum panels. Beutiful. Can't wait to hear your ride report with the 4080 on the 17' rim and the 24"mtb rim with the bermaster. With your 18 fet controller, what kind of peak KW will you be flowing now? Also, like the other guys mentioned, the weller soldering gun will make you an expert solderer. At least thats what it did for me. For years, I used a variable 25-50 watt soldering pen gun. I could never solder worth a shit with it. Well it burnt out on my when I was soldering the xt160 bullets to my 5404 halls wires. So bought me a 140 watt Weller gun and some more electrical solderflux. Wow what a difference, I finished soldering the the xts to the halls and soldered a 11" extension onto my sensor wires. The one bullet I did solder with the pen gun before it burnt out seperated from the wire on my initial ride. Most likely the 50 watts didn't get the bullet hot enough even though the solder was complete liquid when I pressed in the halls wire. Resoldered that with the 140 Weller and haven't had a problems since. Anyway, If the same thing happens to your xt 160, take Jonescg up on his offer. :mrgreen:

Rick
 
Rick peak output will be 6.5 kilowatt. But before I start pushing it I need to upgrade the phase wires from the motor. May try adding shrink wrap first and see if this helps
 
Bill Nye the science guy said:
good work, I am quietly reading along. watch you don't blow a tire by driving too fast. it will take a lot of sliding to get stopped. its a good kit, keeping stealth on their toes.

Hello Bill the science guy, your right about the builds. The up and coming Phasor builds I have been privy too will smoke the stock Stealth Bomber/Fighter. But being a Bomber owner, I can say if I did the same thing the Phasor guys are doing to my Bomber, it would be much quicker also. Rod is going to be running a motorcycle tire on the rear of his Phasor. The Maxxis is US DOT rated for 87MPH or 140KPH. Should be more than fine for Rods build. A while back, I wrote a blog about the pros and cons of using MTB tires VS Motorcycle tires on ebicycles. Based on my experience, the MTB Down Hill wheels/tires are adequate for high powered offroad Ebikes, but just barely. Kids mini motocross rims and tires are way much better. Wait untill you see what Rod has on his bike, you shall see that it will be more than tough enough :mrgreen: .

Rick
 
Started installing the battery today. Chris I've decided not to bolt the packs together this time and soldier 8 gauge wire with the XT150 bullets. So far I've loaded 2 packs. I think it will be a lot safer removing and installing not needing to use a open ender inside the frame. Do you see any issues using this method to join the packs.

Both packs have 3 ml ply on the side and fr4 on the bottom, front and back to prevent downward pressure and deformation of the lower packs.

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