E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

CD, I've been curious about the stock forks. You're not the first person that's noticed wear on them. I can't find much information about them. Is there actually any maintenance you can do to them?

I have no idea about maintenance for them. As I said I've just cleaned them and that's it. I have noticed minor amounts of oil leaking out of the rebound nob on the lower right leg for about a year now...I just wipe it off periodically.

The missus just informed me that I won't be getting new forks unless the current one's completely flake out.

So I might be attempting to service these RST's after all.

Cheers

 

[biknut]

CD, I've been curious about the stock forks. You're not the first person that's noticed wear on them. I can't find much information about them. Is there actually any maintenance you can do to them?

I have no idea about maintenance for them. As I said I've just cleaned them and that's it. I have noticed minor amounts of oil leaking out of the rebound nob on the lower right leg for about a year now...I just wipe it off periodically.

The missus just informed me that I won't be getting new forks unless the current one's completely flake out.

So I might be attempting to service these RST's after all.

Cheers

I haven't been able to find any information about the stock RST forks. There's doesn't seem to be a working website for them, and I can't even find anyone that sells them. The Stealth factory website doesn't list a link about them either. I starting the tiink they really must be some kind of cheap crap that will need to be replaced eventually unless they can be serviced.

What would be nice is if anyone could show pics of a set taken apart. I was under the impression that they're cartridge forks,

 

[Rix]

Theo, my RST were a "seperate function fork", the same concept as the 2012 KXF250. Seperate function forks means compression and rebound are handled in one leg via valving, and the other leg is spring preload. This works and works well with most MTB forks. The problems with the RSTs is you cant feel the compression or rebound input changes because the valveing isn't very good. My RST external preload adjustment didn't yeild any difference from all of the way soft to all of the way hard. So I just turned everything to max at the same time and compared perceived rebound, compression, and dampening with every turned all of the way out. Barely any difference. This lead me to the purchase of the 888 Marzocchi. I can actually feel the adjustment inputs 2 clicks at at time on this. Makes tuning easier. In defense of the RST Ones, I think they are one super strong fork. They flexed less than my 888s. What I really mean to say is, the 888s have a little flex, the RST had zero flex. Even though a little bit flex is actually good, if I could have sorted out the valving on the RSTs, I would have kept them for ever.

 

[Allex]

Yeah I dont understand why they dont list it on their page:
http://www.rst.com.tw/en/spare.aspx

Here is a video of servising one RST
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kT8weWMu34A

Maybe if you contact them, they could assist with spares and a manual.

Contacted Stealth and they said:
don't have a full workshop manual on the RST forks sorry, and I don't know the info you are after. I think the full details are available through the RST site

Thats a really strange strategy, how can they sell a bike and do not have support/manuals/knowledge for the parts?

 

[Rix]

Allex, don't blame Stealth for the lack of info on the fork. I contacted RST via email last year and asked for valving mods. They sent the link you posted in your comment. I couldn't get anything to open up. As far as servicing the fork, it doesn't need servicing, it needs to be re-valved. You can pull that fork apart 100 times and put new seals and stuff in it, but without re-valving, the problems I had wont be solved.

 

[Allex]

If they do not know how to get spares and service their standard fork, which most of buyers have, than they should not equip the bike with it from the beginning. For that kind of money we put in to get our bikes we should get better stuff. What I am saying is that some of the details on the bike is really, really low/sneaky quality.
Take the pedals. The screw holes is not a perfect match for the side covers. The cover screws are regular steel, they rust from the first drop of rain. The paint peels of around the screw holes when you open up the cover. The paint work should be better, needs a clear coat over standard paint.
Sometimes when I turn the ignition on the CA does not turn on, or the display of the CA lits up but I dont see any text. but this last problem could be a CA issue.
The good side of it is that's about it, no more to complain about...well maybe they should have better brakes as standard!

 

[Justtoby]

My stealth is near 4 yrs old, the side cover bolts are still fresh and I have ridden in the rain loads. I can do stoppies and lock the rear wheel still on std orig pads. My rst have not needed a rebuild yet. My ca didn't work a few times but stealth replaced the key switch.

The frame is powder coated, not painted on mine so clear coat wouldn't do anything.

 

[Rix]

If they do not know how to get spares and service their standard fork, which most of buyers have, than they should not equip the bike with it from the beginning. For that kind of money we put in to get our bikes we should get better stuff. What I am saying is that some of the details on the bike is really, really low/sneaky quality.
Take the pedals. The screw holes is not a perfect match for the side covers. The cover screws are regular steel, they rust from the first drop of rain. The paint peels of around the screw holes when you open up the cover. The paint work should be better, needs a clear coat over standard paint.
Sometimes when I turn the ignition on the CA does not turn on, or the display of the CA lits up but I dont see any text. but this last problem could be a CA issue.
The good side of it is that's about it, no more to complain about...well maybe they should have better brakes as standard!

Well, the RSTs are a price point fork. You can get a brand new RST One fork from Taiwan for about $400 US but shipping is another $140 bucks. This was last years quote when I contacted them. So at that price, I am not surprised that spare parts aren't an option because of shipping costs. Some people like the RSTs, I do for what they are. If RST would valve them to control compression, rebound, dampening, and eliminate the stiction issue, I would run those exclusively. The fork looks great, stiff as shit, and I love how the front axle uses left hand threads and the offset for super simple wheel removal and install. Hey RST, if you are listening, fix your valving on the RST One forks. :x

 

[stritzky]

Please help, Motor wont run.

Hi

I just bought a used Stealth Bomber and test rode it quite a bit and everything worked great. But I had to take the back wheel off and disconnect the wires to get it home. (Space issues)

But when I put it back together again the motor wouldn’t run longer than 1 - 2 seconds before it cuts out. But If I let go of the throttle an reengage the throttle the wheel starts spinning again for 1 - 2 seconds.

And when it runs it runs very ruff. It makes a rumbling sound.

What is wrong ?

 

[Allex]

Did you connect the three phase wires right? Try to swap them

 

[stritzky]

Well they are color coded Green to Green, Yellow to Yellow, Blue to Blue. And i am guessing this is correct.

 

[remf]

Sounds more like the Hall connector. Disconnect it & inspect the pins then reconnect making sure all pins insert & connect properly.

 

[Justtoby]

Sounds more like the Hall connector. Disconnect it & inspect the pins then reconnect making sure all pins insert & connect properly.

Agreed on above. Have a fiddle and I bet this will work. There are some posts on here by dlogic earlier than page 100 about replacing with a waterproof RS connector, I did the same on mine and it worked brilliantly

Where are u based, add a location as someone may be local to help

 

[proper159]

Good to know there is a solution to waterproof the connector. I get paranoid when I'm riding in the rain.

 

[stritzky]

i think the connection on the HAL sensor cable is ok. And it only fits one way so there shouldn't be any problems there. i might be wrong. But I have a suspicion it is the throttle grip on the handlebar. Because when i slightly puled on the cable on the throttle it wouldn't work at all. And now it's completely dead. Does anybody know hove the throttle work ?

 

[Hyena]

Here's the vid I mentioned the other day of my batshit fighter vs a bomber for those that wanted to see it. The camera is on the bomber, it's a 2012 model. Drag race first and then a hill climbing test.
The bomber is running what I assume is the 5404 and I noted peaks while riding of ~5000w. The CA showed peak current of 100a but I'm guessing this was just a transient spike and it was more like ~70a under load.
The battery in my fighter is shagged so only running ~6000w. 100 amps peak but less voltage than the bomber sagging down to ~60v under full throttle. Even so she did alright... :wink:

[youtube]Do7UdnC2JhI[/youtube]

 

[Rix]

Great vid. Your Croclone really is quick. If that's a stock Bomber, it should have the 5403 in it. Thanks for posting the vid. Great to see how the Bomber stacks up to the Hyena ultrafast Fighter.

Rick

 

[Hyena]

I'll let sigmacom confirm but I think top speed is around 70km/hr which made me think it was the 5404. I'm surprised he didnt get the drop on me down low.
As I noted in the video I found it seems to have good torque down low then taper off in the midzone then pick up again up top. Have others noticed this with their bombers or is this a quirk of this particular motor ?

 

[Rix]

Thats not exactly what mine does Jay, its mellow initially, then pick ups, then flattens out on top. I was told a while back by John K himself that this was achieved with software programming in the controller. To say that this is standard with all Bombers would be in-accurate. Stealth is constanly expirementing with settings and I am under the impression that it changes from time to time. The fact that the Top Speed is 70KPH tells me that you are correct with the 5404 assesment. My Bomber goes about 44-45MPH hot off the charger with the 5404 which comes out to 72KPH. My 5403 goes about 10mph faster but not as quick off the line. I thought 5404 would jump you off the line and then you would pass it. The video looks like you took it from the begining.

 

[remf]

i think the connection on the HAL sensor cable is ok. And it only fits one way so there shouldn't be any problems there. i might be wrong. But I have a suspicion it is the throttle grip on the handlebar. Because when i slightly puled on the cable on the throttle it wouldn't work at all. And now it's completely dead. Does anybody know hove the throttle work ?

OK so you pulled on the throttle cable slightly and now it's dead. Do you mean the throttle or the bike? Is the CA illuminated? Have you checked the throttle connector? It may not be connected properly or not connected at all. Beyond that if the CA doesn't fire up then it could be a Hall sensor / controller cascade where a failed sensor in the motor takes out a FET in the controller, requiring a fairly straightforward sensor & FET replacement.

 

[QMS]

Is anyone close enough to the Stealth factory to be able to gleam a clue about how sales are going now, compared to past sales?

Just based on my unscientific survey of frame numbers it looks like 2013 sales, may have been something like double 2012 sales?

More than that. Its secret though, if I told you the actual number, I would have to kill myself.

Clinton, you machine looks fantastic with the 24/26 combo. Makes the Bomber look physically bigger. Thanks for posting the picture,

QMS, I see what you mean with the stolen Bomber. Its trashed. Find out if the lifted latent finger prints were dusted with ash based powder, or magnetic powder. If it was magnetic and the controller was touched, the first time you run juice through it you will have a massive camera flash type short. A while back, I dusted a computer with magnetic powder and ruined it. Hopefully the police used ash based powerder when they dusted the prints if you want to reuse some of the components for restoration.

Hey Rix
Thanks for the tip. I will make sure i give it a good clean before any power goes through it It may not get resurrected at all at this stage

I would just like to put my two cents in re the shock conversation, the White Brothers Groove 200 shocks would have to be the best or at least up there with the very best shocks I and we have ever used.
The RST's are a great base starting point but for a really plush ride with heaps of control and travel the WB's are absolutely awesome. I thought they may have had a lot of twist as they are inverted with no lower crown but this is really non existent. Gutters feel like pebbles and as they air shocks react completely differently to oil shocks eg; Maz 888's that we have fitted to our demo. After riding on the WB's the Maz's feel like a toy.

 

[QMS]

Was it insured

I've now listed mine on the house insurance, a specified extra covered at home and outside of the home

Hey MexicanBatman
Yes it was insured, but not for the full value

 

[voicecoils]

Allex, don't blame Stealth for the lack of info on the fork. I contacted RST via email last year and asked for valving mods. They sent the link you posted in your comment. I couldn't get anything to open up. As far as servicing the fork, it doesn't need servicing, it needs to be re-valved. You can pull that fork apart 100 times and put new seals and stuff in it, but without re-valving, the problems I had wont be solved.

Here are the files from that link in PDF format:

View attachment R1 SUPER TA.pdf
View attachment R1 PLATFORM TA.pdf
Compression and Rebound assemblies are marked 2 & 3 on the Super TA drawings. It's an inexpensive enough fork that attempting some valving mods could be fun*

*by fun I mean you might make it better or completely destroy it :lol:

 

[Rix]

Allex, don't blame Stealth for the lack of info on the fork. I contacted RST via email last year and asked for valving mods. They sent the link you posted in your comment. I couldn't get anything to open up. As far as servicing the fork, it doesn't need servicing, it needs to be re-valved. You can pull that fork apart 100 times and put new seals and stuff in it, but without re-valving, the problems I had wont be solved.

Here are the files from that link in PDF format:

View attachment 1
Compression and Rebound assemblies are marked 2 & 3 on the drawings. It's an inexpensive enough fork that attempting some valving mods could be fun*
*by fun I mean you might make it better or completely destroy it :lol:

Thanks VC for posting. I checked out both PDF's. Clarify something for me. The R1 Platform has a small cartridge unit in the right stanchion, but looking at the plunger valve for the left leg, the spring side appears to clearly be an "open Oil Bath" unit. If this is the case, its unique for a separate function fork to have a cartridge unit in one leg, and open bath in the other. My guess is, all the shortcomings could be solved with the R1 Platform with re-valving that cartridge unit. Whats your take? The Super TA doesn't look like it could be re-valved with out installing an after market cartridge unit, I don't see one. However, the Super TA could be tuned with different spring weight, different fork oil and playing with oil levels and compression shims. Wish I knew more about MTB forks, they are different than what I am used to working on with my old gassers.

I would just like to put my two cents in re the shock conversation, the White Brothers Groove 200 shocks would have to be the best or at least up there with the very best shocks I and we have ever used.
The RST's are a great base starting point but for a really plush ride with heaps of control and travel the WB's are absolutely awesome. I thought they may have had a lot of twist as they are inverted with no lower crown but this is really non existent. Gutters feel like pebbles and as they air shocks react completely differently to oil shocks eg; Maz 888's that we have fitted to our demo. After riding on the WB's the Maz's feel like a toy.

Damn Quigley, the 888s are pretty decent in stock form, if the WB are that much better, I really shit the bed by not going with the WBs. In fact, one of my winter mods is to have Hippie Tech revalve my Zocks for me. I just want a little more progressive feel when my fork compresses from big hits without needing to increase air pressure. I can achieve this progressive feel by increasing PSI but it comes at the price of feeling "springy/bouncy" because I already have the rebound slowed down as much as I can go.

Rick

 

[Archer]

anyone know of a good thumb throttle to buy for a stealth fighter? the twist throttle is killing my hand

also, can anyone recommend a nice big soft seat, maybe one with a back rest. or is a backrest not necessary?

Saving for a Stealth.In the meantime I'm enjoying reading here.So much to learn.

Anyway I noticed several of you who have wrist problems with the twist throttles much like what I have read on Modern Vespa and several motorcycle sites.I'm not sure if the problems are exactly alike for electric and motor bike throttles but if so many have purchased the Cramp Buster or Throttle Rocker.A piece of plastic that attaches to your twist grip.They greatly reduce wrist fatigue and are proven.Since their so cheap they would be a great go between till you get a thumb throttle or whatever.

http://crampbuster.com/

http://throttlerocker.com/