Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I made this adapter for power take off on my sons B52.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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litespeed
100 kW
Cozen89 said:
I have a dc/dc converter and I’m using the uLight controlled through the Nucular 24F controller. I’ll post pics when I’m done.
Tom
litespeed
100 kW
I use a 63 amp DC breaker. My 8mm battery connectors have anti spark and I charge through the controller so no issues with any of that. 63 amp breaker has been good up to 17,000 watts so far……..I’ll push it to 20,000 at some point but in all honesty 17,000 is too much for me to handle on anything else but a straight line on pavement. That’s wearing a bicycle helmet and tennis shoes. Front end comes up too easy and rear end looses traction too easy on anything remotely loose. Full race gear would warrant some more power……but on bicycle trails 17kw is way too much.
Tom
Tom
Litespeed,
If you don't mind a few more details?
-Where did you get your breaker from and what is it?
-what anti spark connections are you using Powerpoles?
-what gauge wires are you using for your battery?
Thanks for the info in advance! I'm trying to determine my build but im a little in the dark about some of this any help would be great!
If you don't mind a few more details?
-Where did you get your breaker from and what is it?
-what anti spark connections are you using Powerpoles?
-what gauge wires are you using for your battery?
Thanks for the info in advance! I'm trying to determine my build but im a little in the dark about some of this any help would be great!
litespeed
100 kW
Mine has the brake light also.Cozen89 said:
Tom
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
This is a good little rechargeable taillight that also acts as a brake light.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303738077291?var=602974334306
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303738077291?var=602974334306
litespeed
100 kW
1abv,1abv said:
I don’t remember exactly where I bought mine but this is very similar, https://www.solaris-shop.com/midnite-solar-mnedc60-60a-circuit-breaker/
I use the offshore electric 8mm ones because the 10mm were not made when I built my battery. They are huge and are good to 200 amps…….I run mine higher! https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti
I have 8 gauge battery cables because they were out at my supplier of 6 gauge.
8 gauge is ok up to 225 amps and 6 gauge up to 275 in bursts…..not continuous! If I hold full throttle (17 kw) for more than 7 seconds I’m at 65 mph or higher.
I’ll help with anything I can.
Tom
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Cozen89 said:
Normally open, but why not just get the rechargeable taillight I linked? No wiring required, and it works great as a brake light.
litespeed said:
Tom
Thanks for your help! Those anti sparks are perfect for my application. How do you determine the capacity of the fuse?
Is it based off the gauge of the wire? or the output of the battery? or controller?
Thanks!
BTW on another note I use a timer on my charger and I've noticed that if I plug the bike in there is a small pop. But If I turn the timer on then off then plug in the charger to the bike no pop... interesting...
That small pop is from electricity arcing between the contacts on the relay inside of the timer. More than likely what will ultimately happen is the contacts will weld themselves together during one of those pops. At that point the timer will be unable to open the contacts to stop the flow of electricity. Or worst case it eats away at the contacts causing a poor connection, a rise in resistance, heat, and potentially bad news during extended use.
So as long as I turn it on and off before attaching it then it should be fine because there is no pop correct?
Oh yes and the pop was coming from the point where the charger plug touches the charge port of the bike.
The timer is several feet away from that.. Not sure if that matters
Oh yes and the pop was coming from the point where the charger plug touches the charge port of the bike.
The timer is several feet away from that.. Not sure if that matters
litespeed
100 kW
When you said, “Fuse” I assume you meant breaker? Back when I bought my MaxE it was the recommended size…….I just been using it with the Nuc 24f and all is still good.
I actually have no idea on how to size a DC motor beaker. I searched years back and never found any logical answers. I have found various “theories” but the fact that my y3 amp has held up to 200 amps for 5 or 6 years and to 300 amps for 6 months defies logic. This makes me think I’m either lucky or clueless, and of those two, the latter is a given.
https://www.allumiax.com/breaker-size-calculator
According to that calculator, I should be running a 325 amp breaker?!?! WTF?
Tom
I actually have no idea on how to size a DC motor beaker. I searched years back and never found any logical answers. I have found various “theories” but the fact that my y3 amp has held up to 200 amps for 5 or 6 years and to 300 amps for 6 months defies logic. This makes me think I’m either lucky or clueless, and of those two, the latter is a given.
https://www.allumiax.com/breaker-size-calculator
According to that calculator, I should be running a 325 amp breaker?!?! WTF?
Tom
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I think this talk about circuit breakers is about using an A/C breaker for D/C?
It's not recommended to do that, but we don't let no stinking sissy recommendation stop us.
Basically the size breaker you would use in an A/C circuit, will be half that size for the same current in a D/C circuit.
The reason A/C breakers aren't recommended for D/C has to do with concerns about arcing when the contacts separate which could cause the contacts to weld together. That just says to me that if the breaker ever trips, you should consider it wasted, and replace it with a new breaker. Breakers don't cost much anyway.
It's not recommended to do that, but we don't let no stinking sissy recommendation stop us.
Basically the size breaker you would use in an A/C circuit, will be half that size for the same current in a D/C circuit.
The reason A/C breakers aren't recommended for D/C has to do with concerns about arcing when the contacts separate which could cause the contacts to weld together. That just says to me that if the breaker ever trips, you should consider it wasted, and replace it with a new breaker. Breakers don't cost much anyway.
litespeed
100 kW
I’m using a D/C breaker and I would assume 99% of the guys running them are also.
Here is a big one…… https://www.altestore.com/store/enclosures-electrical-safety/overcurrent-devices-fuses-breakers/panel-mount-circuit-breakers/midnite-solar-250amp-125vdc-panel-mount-breaker-p9924/
Tom
Here is a big one…… https://www.altestore.com/store/enclosures-electrical-safety/overcurrent-devices-fuses-breakers/panel-mount-circuit-breakers/midnite-solar-250amp-125vdc-panel-mount-breaker-p9924/
Tom
That calc is pretty interesting. I suppose I would have to do the math on what the max battery output would be and not on the phase side. I've run into a similar situation where no one is able to tell me what size breaker to use and what its based off of. like cable size, battery output... time of day.... what I had for lunch that day...
Made it up this monster.....then took a nice long motor cool down break..
Made it up this monster.....then took a nice long motor cool down break..
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:That calc is pretty interesting. I suppose I would have to do the math on what the max battery output would be and not on the phase side. I've run into a similar situation where no one is able to tell me what size breaker to use and what its based off of. like cable size, battery output... time of day.... what I had for lunch that day...
Made it up this monster.....then took a nice long motor cool down break..
Yeah that does look like a monster. I think I'm stupid enough to make it down, but I'm not sure about going up.
Tats
1 kW
Getting my durolux setup on the p-7r for pavement - here are some shockwiz readings of the journey so far. Just dropped again this time to 46psi some 35+ psi less than the suntour manual says. Bike keeps getting better and better.
So for a while now I've been calculating power per mile used off-road on my unit.
To be conservative I generally use 72 watt hours per mile. (about 1 amp per mile). The actual is a little closer to 66 watt hours per mile or I get about 1.08 miles per amp. And when I'm closer to or over 1 amp per mile for a while (about a mile or so) I have to throttle back because I'm getting close to 120 degrees. Anytime i'm do pavement riding (generally between trails) The usage goes wayyyy down and the temps stay around 90-95 degrees.
Also the longer the temps stay hotter the longer it takes to cool down. Usually when I get to the mid 90's it takes a lot longer to come down a degree then when its at 110 or so. In the 90's it goes down by points of a degree..
How about you fellas?
To be conservative I generally use 72 watt hours per mile. (about 1 amp per mile). The actual is a little closer to 66 watt hours per mile or I get about 1.08 miles per amp. And when I'm closer to or over 1 amp per mile for a while (about a mile or so) I have to throttle back because I'm getting close to 120 degrees. Anytime i'm do pavement riding (generally between trails) The usage goes wayyyy down and the temps stay around 90-95 degrees.
Also the longer the temps stay hotter the longer it takes to cool down. Usually when I get to the mid 90's it takes a lot longer to come down a degree then when its at 110 or so. In the 90's it goes down by points of a degree..
How about you fellas?
