E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
bigbore said:Hello, I joined the Bomber chassis broken club with my #301.
I'm going to repair it at a local moto/auto shop with a TIG welding machine.
I need to add a little piece of sheet metal, can you tell me which metal I should use to do this repair job?
Regards.
20220717_202611.jpg
Its going to be aircraft grade chromoly, let me see if I can get the specific numerical matrix of the material.
Rix said:bigbore said:Hello, I joined the Bomber chassis broken club with my #301.
I'm going to repair it at a local moto/auto shop with a TIG welding machine.
I need to add a little piece of sheet metal, can you tell me which metal I should use to do this repair job?
Regards.
20220717_202611.jpg
Its going to be aircraft grade chromoly, let me see if I can get the specific numerical matrix of the material.
Yes, you'r right it's AISI 4130 and I ordered one piece of sheet metal from an aircraft supplier shop on line
Rix
100 TW
Yes, apparently you reached out to Stealth about this. Use ER70S2 or ER80 wire to weld.bigbore said:Rix said:bigbore said:Hello, I joined the Bomber chassis broken club with my #301.
I'm going to repair it at a local moto/auto shop with a TIG welding machine.
I need to add a little piece of sheet metal, can you tell me which metal I should use to do this repair job?
Regards.
20220717_202611.jpg
Its going to be aircraft grade chromoly, let me see if I can get the specific numerical matrix of the material.
Yes, you'r right it's AISI 4130 and I ordered one piece of sheet metal from an aircraft supplier shop on line
Oh no, my bike died. I was riding it pretty hard last night, and all of a sudden it started running erratically. It quickly got worse, and then no power at all to the rear wheel. The ca stays on though. Luckily I was close to home at the time. After everything had time to cool down I tried it again, and it tried to run for a few seconds, but then went back to very erratic. I tried unhooking the power cables to the motor, and reconnecting them, and after that it went back to no power at all to the rear wheel, but the ca still comes on. The battery is only about half down. I think I was a over due for a failure considering all the hot summers my bike has been through. I'm guessing either I blew a capacitor, or a hall sensor went bad. Probably a capacitor though since now it doesn't even make any noise when I twist the throttle.
The timing of this failure could have been better, but I have to admit, over the last few years I've been feeling more, and more like technology was passing my bike by. I think it may be time to find out what a decade of advancement will do for my bike.
The timing of this failure could have been better, but I have to admit, over the last few years I've been feeling more, and more like technology was passing my bike by. I think it may be time to find out what a decade of advancement will do for my bike.
The controllers on our bikes are made in batches and each batch is different. The boards are different etc. the caps do not have any vibration protection. Same thing happens to me then I recapped the board. Hopefully you didn’t nuke anything else. I would attached the caps to the board w electronic grade silicone. The legs of the caps vibrate and break.
Or f it and get another controller!
Or buy this!!
https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/eboxx-ultra/
Or f it and get another controller!
Or buy this!!
https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/eboxx-ultra/
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This is the handy dandy eBike diagnostic tool I bought on Amazon ($20), So far I've only tested the controller, and based on what I think I'm supposed to see, it looks like the controller is bad. The instructions make referance to getting the 5v positive, and negitive right, but don't say the other 3 hall wires have to be hooked up in any order for testing, but I assume I hooked them up right anyway. More on that later.
Beleive it, or not, high end variable speed air conditioning units have 3 phase DC motors so I'm familiar with testing them with an ohm meter. Basically all three of the windings should have the same continuity to each other, which in this case is around 5 ohm. The important thing is they should all be about the same. There shouldn't be any continuity between the windings and the frame, or the motor shell.
Before I can use this tester to check the hall sensors in the motor I need to think of a way to attach the testor to the wires, because the plug is too small for 5 alligator clips to fit in, but I'm guessing nothing will be wrong with the motor.
[youtube]cad3WYi-y20[/youtube]
Beleive it, or not, high end variable speed air conditioning units have 3 phase DC motors so I'm familiar with testing them with an ohm meter. Basically all three of the windings should have the same continuity to each other, which in this case is around 5 ohm. The important thing is they should all be about the same. There shouldn't be any continuity between the windings and the frame, or the motor shell.
Before I can use this tester to check the hall sensors in the motor I need to think of a way to attach the testor to the wires, because the plug is too small for 5 alligator clips to fit in, but I'm guessing nothing will be wrong with the motor.
[youtube]cad3WYi-y20[/youtube]
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This is the female Hall sensor plug coming from the controller. I expected red and black to be the 5v positive and negative, but for some reason negative turned out to be Yellow. Blue, and green are common sensor colors, so black was the only one left. It seems the Yellow and black are swapped at least on my bike, but as long as the motor and controller sides of the plug are the same, I guess it doesn't matter.
Obviously I'm going to need a new controller. Reparing my near 10 year old controller doesn't have any appeal to me. I'm sure it was cutting edge back when Fred Flintstone designed it, but that was then, this is now. All the cool kids are rocking BAC, Kelly, and top of the class, Nuclear. BAC looks like it would be a lot of trouble to adapt to my bike. Kelly is the smart choice for a lot of reasons, so naturally I think I'll order a Nuc 24F and wait till January to get one. If this is going to be a bad choice someone better stop me now, because I'll probably hit the button sometime tonight.
I fabricated these two crude adapters that allow me to connect the eBike diagnostic tool to either the male or female side of a hall sensor plug. The tool worked perfectly, and indecated the motor windings, and hall sensors are good.
Sooo, it looks like I blew the controller. I have to confess there might have been a little booze involved. It was around 9 pm and about 100 degrees outside when my son and I left our favorite imbibing house, the Beer Hole. A couple of 16 oz glasses of 10.0 really gets your motor going. 
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:
Looks like those could double as streamers. Make them streamers when not being used to diagnose problems,
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:Sooo, it looks like I blew the controller. I have to confess there might have been a little booze involved. It was around 9 pm and about 100 degrees outside when my son and I left our favorite imbibing house, the Beer Hole. A couple of 16 oz glasses of 10.0 really gets your motor going.
Now thats what I call a good time. If we lived closer, we would be great friends.
Rix said:Theodore Voltaire said:Sooo, it looks like I blew the controller. I have to confess there might have been a little booze involved. It was around 9 pm and about 100 degrees outside when my son and I left our favorite imbibing house, the Beer Hole. A couple of 16 oz glasses of 10.0 really gets your motor going.
Now thats what I call a good time. If we lived closer, we would be great friends.
I have no doubt about that.
Rix
100 TW
ycxtdxy said:
Depends on the motor and how wide the case is. Anything short of a H55 QS205 series motor, should fit a 7 speed freewheel on it. That said, some motors now come with the cassette tower installed, so you may be able to fit a 10speed cassette with that much space. The other consideration is the 4" wide rim, you may have to get a free wheel extender to run a 7 speed freewheel due to tire chain line clearance issues.
Computer??!!! That’s way too far in the future for me!
Actually I’m not sure yet. I’m getting the wiring to get it moving I know there is CA that will work but haven’t really looked into others. Maybe what onyx uses? Let me know if you find anything
Me and my bud chasing this wild horse in the middle of nowhere
BTW He cheats with his dirt rotten good for nothing Modded Surron.... Stupid hill climbing bike.. what your too cool to walk your bike up stupid steep hills???
Actually I’m not sure yet. I’m getting the wiring to get it moving I know there is CA that will work but haven’t really looked into others. Maybe what onyx uses? Let me know if you find anything
Me and my bud chasing this wild horse in the middle of nowhere
BTW He cheats with his dirt rotten good for nothing Modded Surron.... Stupid hill climbing bike.. what your too cool to walk your bike up stupid steep hills???
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ycxtdxy said:
The freewheel can't go past the end of you axle where the axle touches the dropout. Usually the motor manufacturer will say what size freewheel will fit. The most common sizes for eBike motors are single speed, and 7 speed. I was able to fit a 3 speed on one of my bikes that was made for single speed.
For a 7 speed freewheel to fit, you'll need a little more than 1 3/4" from the base of the threads on the motor to where the axle contacts the dropout
1abv said:
Damn'it man, I was counting on you to show me.
This seems like the biggest obstacle to using a Kelly controller. Kelly doesn't offer a display, or even recommend anything. Alex said a there's a problem getting a ca to work with a Kelly. I'm guessing that since you can program a Kelly with your phone, it doesn't need a fancy computer like a ca, and maybe a verity of more simple displays will work with it, but it would be nice if they frickin gave us a clue. I think this is like the one Onyx uses
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832789728395.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.100009.1.374c8c624HZiQu&gps-id=pcDetailLeftTopSell&scm=1007.13482.271138.0&scm_id=1007.13482.271138.0&scm-url=1007.13482.271138.0&pvid=8fe7e623-5587-432b-87d9-c4d195198a14&_t=gps-id
cDetailLeftTopSell,scm-url:1007.13482.271138.0,pvid:8fe7e623-5587-432b-87d9-c4d195198a14,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266647155542%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223482%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21%2165.0%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1b016589317154152199e7aaa%2166647155542%21recHere's what I got from Grin when I enquired about that:
We have this stand-alone model of the Cycle Analyst that you can wire into your existing system: https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/cycle-analysts/ca-sa.html
I would talk to Kelly (Fany is great and very responsive) to find out which controller you should get based on your battery pack then get in touch w grin about which CA to use. Don't base it off of what they recommended to me. It may be different. Fany may also be able to help out w display... If I find anything out ill let you know.
If you want to use the other onyx display then maybe find out from the onyx crew how they hooked it up. I've watched a few vids but you may have better connections with that world.
We have this stand-alone model of the Cycle Analyst that you can wire into your existing system: https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/cycle-analysts/ca-sa.html
I would talk to Kelly (Fany is great and very responsive) to find out which controller you should get based on your battery pack then get in touch w grin about which CA to use. Don't base it off of what they recommended to me. It may be different. Fany may also be able to help out w display... If I find anything out ill let you know.
If you want to use the other onyx display then maybe find out from the onyx crew how they hooked it up. I've watched a few vids but you may have better connections with that world.
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