E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

1abv said:
Here's what I got from Grin when I enquired about that:

We have this stand-alone model of the Cycle Analyst that you can wire into your existing system: https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/cycle-analysts/ca-sa.html
Click to expand...

After reading up on this mess it makes me question why we wouldn't be able to just buy the stand alone shunt device, and hook it up to our stock ca?

Another question I have is what's different about the Kelly controller from the stock controller that makes it require the stand alone shunt in the first place.
 
After studying up on the subject I think the reason Kelly controllers like the KLS7218S don't come whith a conputer is because you don't need one, your phone or laptop becomes the computer. On the bike you only need a simple display that shows stuff like speed, odo, volts, trip. I think something like this. If displays like this work, that would make a conversion using a Kelly controller pretty inexpensive.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255799962972354.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.2.31e26a86HShXck&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=1536a0a6-6445-495e-8f91-5c479ccdc717&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:1536a0a6-6445-495e-8f91-5c479ccdc717,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000000457941201%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21%2151.44%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1bc16589814013316732e018b%2110000000457941201%21rec

Hd05546c5fcba4355a41823874845bd361.jpg
 
KLS7218S with Bluetooth adapter. Then you don't really need no stinkin computer, you could could even use your phone as the display, and you'll get a lot more information than from a ca. Or you can take your pick from a bunch of chinese displays, or you could even have both at the same time. Everything should be less than $400.

This idea is starting to grow on me. 80 amps with field weakening. I pitty the Groms.
 
@TV
Depending on how far you want to push things, take a look at the Phaserunner/Frankenrunner controllers from Grin. I have had good success pushing over 3KW through one with only heatsinking it to the frame and because it's a FOC controller runs very efficient. The catch is the only way to get these controllers working is using a PC with USB/TTL cable and the tuning software. The good thing about that though is that Grin do a pretty decent job of making the software work and will provide support if needed.

If you're after more power this is a re-branded Sabvaton controller that isn't too expensive and can work ok. I recently sourced one for a customer, re-wired and pre-programmed it for his Bomber.
https://www.risunmotor.com/products/48v-72v-3000w-5000w-100a-ebike-sine-wave-programmable-intelligent-controller
The catch with this one is that it can be a bit hard to program. The phone app (via bluetooth) can be a bit flakey requiring a PC USB connection (provided with the controller) and crappy software that can be equally as flakey/finicky to setup and get working. That being said, between the phone apps and the PC connection, usually at least one of them will work enough to get it working how you want. I'm going to have to walk my customer through it when they get around to it...here's hoping we can get it working. :|
I also could not figure out the thermistor connection and ended up wiring the only wire it could have been, but who knows if it will recognise the existing thermistor in the Bomber's motor.

Unfortunately, since Adaptto, and now also Nucular have fallen victim of being based out of Russia, there aren't really any decent controller options that are both reasonably priced and include fully integrated programming and display. The above is about as close as I've been able to find.

Cheers
 
Thanks a lot CD, I appreciate those options. I was hoping to go Nucular, but so far it's been 4 days, and all I've heard is crickets, FJB. Even if I'm able to order one, it's unlikely I'll just sit and wait 7 or 8 months without installing something else in the meantime. I should have ordered a year ago like I thought about doing.

Right now I still have my fatty to ride, so I can take my time waiting on 1abv to blaze me a trail with a Kelly KLS7218S. It's good that I'm not in a big hurry, because he works about as fast as a blind one legged turtle. :lol:

I leaning heavily toward the Kelly, because it's 80 amp, and has field weakening for higher top speed. I've seen them in action with my riding friends that have Onyx, and they seem to work pretty good.
 
1abv, unless I'm not understanding it, which is highly possible, it looks like when you use the stand alone shunt, the controller has to use an external speed sensor, instead the halls to sense motor speed. If that's the case it's another reason I would junk the ca.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
After studying up on the subject I think the reason Kelly controllers like the KLS7218S don't come whith a conputer is because you don't need one, your phone or laptop becomes the computer. On the bike you only need a simple display that shows stuff like speed, odo, volts, trip. I think something like this. If displays like this work, that would make a conversion using a Kelly controller pretty inexpensive.

h
Hd05546c5fcba4355a41823874845bd361.jpg
Click to expand...

That is a trend I am seeing alot now. I still like the stand alone CA or whatever options are out there. Don't like using my phone as a cycle analyst.
 
1abv said:
Me and my bud chasing this wild horse in the middle of nowhere

BTW He cheats with his dirt rotten good for nothing Modded Surron.... Stupid hill climbing bike.. what your too cool to walk your bike up stupid steep hills???
Click to expand...

Yah, why deprive your self of a good workout in the middle of a ride? :?: On another note, I got your PM, thank you. :D
 
One legged turtle??? that's pretty slow I think I should feel insulted....ok so what are you trying to say???

So you are correct the CAV wont really do anything but be a display. Its separate from the controller. It needs a shunt to be able to display in the correct range..

Not sure if the display you sent shows temp.. Ill have to look. in checking out the onyx harness I don't see any shunt there so I'm guessing its not needed.

I'm using a Surron 100ah breaker and not using the kelly contactor setup because....Its fing huge. and annoying.

Kelly rates the controllers off of the motor or phase sides of things so the controller I bought is 72v 200amps phase. You may want to go more powerful if your doing street stuff.

I put xt 150s on the Kelly I will prob need a jumper or extend the phase wires long enough to connect to the existing motor side phase wires. The wires coming off the kelly are a really annoying length. I would like to get the controller up higher on the frame. In order to do that I would have to either build a bash plate to cover the wires or drill some holes and route them under the battery.

The stock kelly connectors look like they are off of a 1982 chevy suburban. Too big for our bike.

I already upped the size of the phase wires coming off the motor which helped out a lot. The stock ones were falling apart. and if you are going to run more power then I would recommend it.

The Kelly requires a specific thermistor which is not the one in our motor so you will have to swap that out. You can get that through Kelly

I chose the kelly because I was in line for a Nuke and have been waiting for years to the sounds of crickets..... (apparently I'm not the only turtle) and the sabvaton is fing huge. You can get it to fit but you have cut off the tabs and figure out a way to mount it. Ive seen a few bikes with that setup.

Recently I've been adjusting the watt output down quite a bit of the bike because I've been doing some longer distance rides off road. The kelly has an eco switch that can do this. But the CAV you can adjust pretty quickly to any setting.

Now can I go get back to bed??????... Turtles need Hibernation man!....
 
That's interesting info 1abv. You answered a lot of the questions I've been wondering about. Right now I'm forced to stretch my brain doing a crash course on eBike technology. My head is already starting to hurt. It just seems like this is way harder then it ought to be.

I'm starting to think if I'm going to use a Kelly controller it makes more sense to buy a QS205, and the QS display that goes with it, and replace the whole shebang at the same time.
 
If I were you Theodore Voltaire I would pre order a Nuc. 24F and wait a year or what is necessary to buy it and in the meantime I would mount a Kelly.
When you get the chance to get your hands on it, you will be well rewarded for the wait.

At 1abv :
If I'm not mistaken, you have the Marzocchi 888 fork.
I would like to try the hard spring "6.5 # 5141960"
https://www.desertcart.id/products/36088454-marzocchi-suspension-380-cr-c-2-r-2-fork-spring-steel-888-heavy-6-5-5141960-p

But I can't find it anywhere.
 
Rix said:
bigbore said:
Rix said:
bigbore said:
Hello, I joined the Bomber chassis broken club with my #301. :twisted:
I'm going to repair it at a local moto/auto shop with a TIG welding machine.
I need to add a little piece of sheet metal, can you tell me which metal I should use to do this repair job?
Regards.

20220717_202611.jpg
Click to expand...

Its going to be aircraft grade chromoly, let me see if I can get the specific numerical matrix of the material.
Click to expand...

Yes, you'r right it's AISI 4130 and I ordered one piece of sheet metal from an aircraft supplier shop on line
Click to expand...
Yes, apparently you reached out to Stealth about this. Use ER70S2 or ER80 wire to weld.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did and they told me the same but but I had the chance to do the TIG welding by a professional welder and the 312 rod was used where needed.

20220727_193903.jpg

20220727_194808.jpg

Now I understand what I will have to ask Santa this year ...... a TIG welder :D
 
bigbore said:
If I were you Theodore Voltaire I would pre order a Nuc. 24F and wait a year or what is necessary to buy it and in the meantime I would mount a Kelly.
When you get the chance to get your hands on it, you will be well rewarded for the wait.
Click to expand...

This is basically what I've done. I made a preorder to Nucular, but I'm thinking it's going to be a very long time, if ever, before I get one, FJB. No matter how this turns out, I'll buy one if I get the chance, FJB.

It looks like Kelly will be the best option, but us turtles have to think about the pros and cons, slow but steady for the win, don't you know. So far I've read through the Kelly user manual about 3 times trying to figure out if I can make it work. Maybe I shouldn't be so worried about the problems, because it sounds like they're pretty common. CD seems to have found ways to deal with them, so I guess it becomes a process you just deal with. I'll make a desision by Monday.
 
I'm thinking what this means is you can set the controller setting to 0, it will work with no temperature sensor. That would solve one problem when using the stock motor.

temp sensor.JPG
 
1abv said:
Uhhhhh your too deep in the rabbit hole man..Catch30F8.jpg

Try this one.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the one I thought was the right one.

One more question as I turtle me way out of this rabbit hole. How many pole pairs does the 5403 motor have?
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
1abv said:
Uhhhhh your too deep in the rabbit hole man..Catch30F8.jpg

Try this one.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the one I thought was the right one.

One more question as I turtle me way out of this rabbit hole. How many pole pairs does the 5403 motor have?
Click to expand...

Good old Rix to the rescue, one of the few answers I've been able to find using the search feature.

pole pairs 5403.JPG
 
Y'all forgot my post a few yers back huh?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=17725#p1628961

This is how you connect your CA to Kelly.
If you dont get a NUC prepare to have a hell soldering all this up and then configure in a buggy Bluetooth software or computer
muhahaha
 
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