E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Theodore Voltaire]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

This is a Moose Racing clamp on stand for a Honda CR80. It works very well after a little custom work on the mount.

 

[Rix]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

That would work Steve, an in line timer on the charger power cord would be fine. As far as kick stands go, TV came up with a very good and economical solution, but if money is no objects, QMS has the best kick stand there is. http://www.quigleymotorsport.com/accessories.html

 

[stevebills]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

That would work Steve, an in line timer on the charger power cord would be fine. As far as kick stands go, TV came up with a very good and economical solution, but if money is no objects, QMS has the best kick stand there is. http://www.quigleymotorsport.com/accessories.html

jesus that Quigley make some stuff and yes kick stand looks nice but not the price m8

 

[stevebills]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

My helmet vote: bell super 2R

MET Parachute looks the bis aswel

 

[stevebills]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

This is a Moose Racing clamp on stand for a Honda CR80. It works very well after a little custom work on the mount.

can you make me one pls?

thx steve

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I did a reset in the menu and it went to 100% battery life so that's sorted
and how about a timer on the charger say for 3 or 4 hours then it switches off?
and does anyone use a side stand?
whats the best looking helmet to buy?

thx
steve

This is a Moose Racing clamp on stand for a Honda CR80. It works very well after a little custom work on the mount.






can you make me one pls?

thx steve

It's really easy to make it work. All you need is a hacksaw, and the ability to drill 2 holes.

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Hi and thanks Emmett,
I will be sealing and putting some castor oil in my Bombers motor. I have a similar problem with heat after about half a battery.
I have a coupe of queries please:
1. I recall you commenting that you get a bit of oil weep past the inside of the inner bearing race on the disc side. I assume this is weeping along the phase wires. Silicone does not completely stop this? Does it leak on the sprocket side?
2. Do you find you lose oil from the small breather hole near the sprocket?
3. Regarding the Tubliss, are you saying that the raised inner tube prevents or reduces the tyre sidewall pinching?

One more question for Allex please. Would an Adapto controller provide significantly better battery life and power if it replaced the Crystalite controller on a Bomber and does it work with the CA?

Finally, to retain the Crystalite throttle and have a full length throttle I turned up a piece of nylon and snug or press fitted it into the end of the standard Crystalite half throttle with some super glue to make it full length. It is slightly over size though I am accustomed to this now and it is working fine. According to Stealth, the Magura full length throttle I had was not ideal as it was not giving me full power. I did find the bike goes a little better with the Crystalite throttle.

Thanks
Clinton

 

[Emmett]

Hi Clinton, Glad I might be able to help.

1. No cooling oil weeps out through the wiring slot. Nothing I've noticed. Silicone sealant seems to work fine there, or some sikaflex, but don't use too much sika since it bonds so strongly. Oil weeps between the inner bearing race and the axle. Then eventually past the outer seal. It's barely noticeable. Pre ride give the inside of your rear rotor a rag wipe, and maybe a spray of brake cleaner first. Then before hitting a track section requiring heavy braking, be sure to use the rear brake and heat clean the rotor and pads. On the sprocket side, it's no problem at all. You might intensionally pump 100x as much oil into your freewheel ratchet to lube it.

While your side covers are off, you should consider getting some 1x1mm groove rings machined into them to greatly increase the surface area and heat dissipation. That's what I'm going to do with my next hub. Just for the longevity of the next motor. With this oil cooled motor, I can ride it pretty hard and get the hub temp up to about 80% on the bar graph, then it seems to hold no matter what I do. Prior to my oil stator cooling, reaching that temp meant my ride was effectively over within the next 5 minutes. IE. Heat alarm and DC-1 throttle limiting. Had to also be bad for the stator life.

2. Yes some oil weeps out my 1mm breather hole. You could make it 0.5mm. It's only a pressure balancer. Not an issue. Drill it near the sprocket. I suggest you use a dremel for drilling with bits smaller than 1mm.

3. Yes the Tubliss liner greatly reduces the chance of a sidewall pinch. A rock would have to push directly into one rim edge. Keep in mind that a sidewall pinch is no big deal when there is no inner tube to get pinched inside the tire. Since the sidewall is maybe 10x tougher than any inner tube. Also if the outer tire was ruptured, you simply ride home on the outer flat. No problems, since the inner liner keeps the bead in place and rim off the ground. Just ride a bit slower to prevent overheating the tire sidewalls from over flexing.

Regarding the full width throttle, I broke my Crystalyte wide throttle in a crash. Just turned the throttle open too far and stripped the inside lugs off. So I ended up extending my stock 1/4 width throttle in much the same way that you did. It's easy to trim down the remaining fixed grip to have that little section on the end.

Regarding my trimmed bars. I started with 6mm off each end, then went to 12mm. This feels very different. With shorter bars it way better through the trees! But you do need good fork function, else the bars might get ripped out of your hands over rough fast sections. Surprising how sensitive it is.

Here you can see my hub. The M4 bolts with fiber washers are the fill/drain holes. You cannot see the breather in that pic. I notice my scuff pad is out of position on my swing arm. My rear heel pushes on the swing arm a lot.

My rear wheel+tire is so good that I'm now again feeling to need to revalve my forks and shock. My shock needs firmer high speed comp damping again (3rd time into it). My forks I'm not sure what's wrong ... Having only one clicker for reb and camp damping bleed control makes it difficult to isolate what's going on. They are a lot better than the R1s. The R1s would have put me in hospital many times if I asked them to do what my curent forks can do. But for sure my modded DNMs can be better. I'm going to have do have some guesses.

I've got some shorter 155mm cranks coming next week. I expect shorter cranks are going to transform my bike into something much better. Not just better for ground clearance when pedalling to boost up a rough steep hill, but when standing on one leg around a tight fast corner and the outside pedal is down, it sucks when the crank end clips a fixed rock. 15mm less per leg will be great.

I suppose I should cut off that metal bracket on the swingarm under the rear sprocket. It's just dead weight, and I'm never going to fit rear chain gears to this bike, or care about resale value.

 

[Jimboyr6]

That rim looks sweet almost dont realise it not standard

 

[Allex]

Emmet, I dont know how the bearing are on the fighter but on the bomber, one of them was not sealed. I exchnged both to sealed SKF units. I think it would be less oildrip with them, they are very tight.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&hilit=SKF+6004&start=9450#p969242

One more question for Allex please. Would an Adapto controller provide significantly better battery life and power if it replaced the Crystalite controller on a Bomber and does it work with the CA?

Battery life would be the same at the equal power and less if you increase the power. It does not support CA, it comes with its own screen and you reprogram controller on the fly from it.

 

[stevebills]

what the best camera for hd recording the SONY HD ACTION CAMERA vs the hero 3 or 4?
What mudguards fit the bomber best?
I want to make a few videos in the summer
all advice welcome

thx
steve

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Hi and thanks Emmett and Allex for the prompt responses,
I may have to fit a 19 X 1.6 rim to fit the tubliss, as I currently have a 1.4 fitted, and also replace the bearings as Allex suggests. I recall one of them had only metal dust covers. I have a lathe and can groove the side covers easily.
Again thanks,
Cheers,
Clinton

 

[proper159]

Man, my Bomber was bomb proof all winter but now the key ignition won't respond to my key (i.e. won't turn). I don't think the key is worn out and my spare is 60 km away. Any ideas on how to fix this? I had the key hole covered on all of my rides and it seemed to never get wet.

 

[Allex]

Disconnect the wires going to the key and short two wires going from controller to those wires to turn the bile on.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Man, my Bomber was bomb proof all winter but now the key ignition won't respond to my key (i.e. won't turn). I don't think the key is worn out and my spare is 60 km away. Any ideas on how to fix this? I had the key hole covered on all of my rides and it seemed to never get wet.

You might try squirting some WD40 in the keyhole. A while back my ignition started getting a little rough, and I cured it that way.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

what the best camera for hd recording the SONY HD ACTION CAMERA vs the hero 3 or 4?

thx
steve

It's tough to beat a GoPro

 

[proper159]

Disconnect the wires going to the key and short two wires going from controller to those wires to turn the bile on.

Thanks, not sure what you mean exactly. I see the two wires, how should I disconnect them? Cut them? And then to hot wire I just touch them together or keep them in contact?

Thx TV, I'll try that method as well with the WD40.

Anyone have any key replacement suggestions that would fit an older Bomber?

 

[Rix]

Hi Clinton, Glad I might be able to help.

1. No cooling oil weeps out through the wiring slot. Nothing I've noticed. Silicone sealant seems to work fine there, or some sikaflex, but don't use too much sika since it bonds so strongly. Oil weeps between the inner bearing race and the axle. Then eventually past the outer seal. It's barely noticeable. Pre ride give the inside of your rear rotor a rag wipe, and maybe a spray of brake cleaner first. Then before hitting a track section requiring heavy braking, be sure to use the rear brake and heat clean the rotor and pads. On the sprocket side, it's no problem at all. You might intensionally pump 100x as much oil into your freewheel ratchet to lube it.

While your side covers are off, you should consider getting some 1x1mm groove rings machined into them to greatly increase the surface area and heat dissipation. That's what I'm going to do with my next hub. Just for the longevity of the next motor. With this oil cooled motor, I can ride it pretty hard and get the hub temp up to about 80% on the bar graph, then it seems to hold no matter what I do. Prior to my oil stator cooling, reaching that temp meant my ride was effectively over within the next 5 minutes. IE. Heat alarm and DC-1 throttle limiting. Had to also be bad for the stator life.

2. Yes some oil weeps out my 1mm breather hole. You could make it 0.5mm. It's only a pressure balancer. Not an issue. Drill it near the sprocket. I suggest you use a dremel for drilling with bits smaller than 1mm.

3. Yes the Tubliss liner greatly reduces the chance of a sidewall pinch. A rock would have to push directly into one rim edge. Keep in mind that a sidewall pinch is no big deal when there is no inner tube to get pinched inside the tire. Since the sidewall is maybe 10x tougher than any inner tube. Also if the outer tire was ruptured, you simply ride home on the outer flat. No problems, since the inner liner keeps the bead in place and rim off the ground. Just ride a bit slower to prevent overheating the tire sidewalls from over flexing.

Regarding the full width throttle, I broke my Crystalyte wide throttle in a crash. Just turned the throttle open too far and stripped the inside lugs off. So I ended up extending my stock 1/4 width throttle in much the same way that you did. It's easy to trim down the remaining fixed grip to have that little section on the end.

Regarding my trimmed bars. I started with 6mm off each end, then went to 12mm. This feels very different. With shorter bars it way better through the trees! But you do need good fork function, else the bars might get ripped out of your hands over rough fast sections. Surprising how sensitive it is.

Here you can see my hub. The M4 bolts with fiber washers are the fill/drain holes. You cannot see the breather in that pic. I notice my scuff pad is out of position on my swing arm. My rear heel pushes on the swing arm a lot.

My rear wheel+tire is so good that I'm now again feeling to need to revalve my forks and shock. My shock needs firmer high speed comp damping again (3rd time into it). My forks I'm not sure what's wrong ... Having only one clicker for reb and camp damping bleed control makes it difficult to isolate what's going on. They are a lot better than the R1s. The R1s would have put me in hospital many times if I asked them to do what my curent forks can do. But for sure my modded DNMs can be better. I'm going to have do have some guesses.

I've got some shorter 155mm cranks coming next week. I expect shorter cranks are going to transform my bike into something much better. Not just better for ground clearance when pedalling to boost up a rough steep hill, but when standing on one leg around a tight fast corner and the outside pedal is down, it sucks when the crank end clips a fixed rock. 15mm less per leg will be great.

I suppose I should cut off that metal bracket on the swingarm under the rear sprocket. It's just dead weight, and I'm never going to fit rear chain gears to this bike, or care about resale value.

[_zpslxeaybrl.jpg[/img]

Damn Emmett, nice write up. Glad the oil cooling is working out so well. In my last vid, I hit thermo rollback while climbing, I am going to give oil cooling a try on my next motor. Have you intentionally tried to get your motor to over heat since oil cooling? I know if you stalled the wheel and held the throttle wide open, it would over heat for sure, but just riding and climbing hard, doesn't sound like you would be able too. Blew my right fork seal out on the last video, now my front suspension feels exactly like a childs pogo stick. Contacted Jerry at Hippie Tech Suspension, hes going to take a look at them for me and see what he can do. I really like the R One so going to see what can be done before I mount another fork on. You will love those shorter crank arms. I found some 127mm long crank arms, that would really help with standing handling :lol: not sure how much hill climbing assist I would get though. Probably not going to try that short, don't have the bucks to waste on it.

 

[Allex]

Proper no cutting, they should have andersson connectors thats what the key switch do, connect those wires together.

 

[stevebills]

more help and whats the best mudguards for a bomber and do they all fit?

thx
steve

 

[00Tj]

The one thing that made me get a Sony Camera over a gopro was the fact the sony has GPS! On my video's you can have maps, speed etc.. Can't do that with a gopro.

 

[stevebills]

I think i will look for a Sony secondhand and test it out maybe do a review
and what about mudguards for the bomber do they make them or do u have to hack them?

thx
steve

 

[1abv]

I think i will look for a Sony secondhand and test it out maybe do a review
and what about mudguards for the bomber do they make them or do u have to hack them?

thx
steve

Topeak defender xc1 for the front and lizard skins for wrapping the rear shock. Works great and the defender is really adjustable.

 

[proper159]

Proper no cutting, they should have andersson connectors thats what the key switch do, connect those wires together.

Thanks, was able to fix it by spraying Electric Cleaner in the key hole and then graphene on the outside to lubricate the tumbler. Then I tapped my key and it broke the jam which was probably dirt and salt.

 

[proper159]

The one thing that made me get a Sony Camera over a gopro was the fact the sony has GPS! On my video's you can have maps, speed etc.. Can't do that with a gopro.

Yep, I was thinking hard about the Sony cam, especiallly with the wrist remote viewer. I wanted to do this with the Contour camera and a Recon Instruments goggles where I could see behind me streamed to the viewfinder in the googles. The Sony cam wrist remote viewer would attach nicely on my handlebars so I could get a glimpse behind me in real time (not too much lag) in combination to my side mirror.