E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

1abv said:
stevebills said:
I think i will look for a Sony secondhand and test it out maybe do a review
and what about mudguards for the bomber do they make them or do u have to hack them?

thx
steve


Topeak defender xc1 for the front and lizard skins for wrapping the rear shock. Works great and the defender is really adjustable.


any rear guards that fit or is ths a problem?

thx
steve
 
Sadly those does not do a lot of protection especially rear ones. Custom made are the best ones best looking IMO and best protection, look at what TV has done. Or look at quigleys.
http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6427/43441103.14/0_8a8a1_ce4c1b70_orig.jpg.jpg
 
Sony Action Cam blows away a gopro. Since it can be side mounted for best view and least trouble, it has external audio pickup, GPS, and most important is the image stabilization.
 
Allex said:
Sadly those does not do a lot of protection especially rear ones. Custom made are the best ones best looking IMO and best protection, look at what TV has done. Or look at quigleys.
http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6427/43441103.14/0_8a8a1_ce4c1b70_orig.jpg.jpg

the TV one is so ugly I am going to look at Quigley instead

THX
STEVE
 
Emmett said:
Sony Action Cam blows away a gopro. Since it can be side mounted for best view and least trouble, it has external audio pickup, GPS, and most important is the image stabilization.


THANKS THEN SONY IT IS FROM NOW
 
These may help steve
Iv tryed many mudguards,but this one seems to do the trick looks ok and is adjustable
It may need sum fine tuning for off road use,
Also have the cheap plastic marsh guards which are good have one on front aswell
 

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That's a great looking rear guard Jimboyr6, pity it would interfere with the valve on my dropper seat post. :cry:

The Quigley ones are expensive as hell, look great... but currently not in stock and could be a while before they are again. I was looking to order a set in a week or two but doesn't look like that will be happening. :?

Looking for some decent alternatives myself at the moment... even if temporary.
Might have to go with the lizard skins but that will only keep my suspension clean, not me too heh.
 
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Some pics from todays ride…..
 
hello and how do i get the fastest excelleraion from a bomber at the moment i have started in 9th gear and peedle with throttle on full
and is the a better way or any tips how to get it faster than 45mph apart for lose 5 stone?

thx
steve
 
Allex said:
Emmet, I dont know how the bearing are on the fighter but on the bomber, one of them was not sealed. I exchnged both to sealed SKF units. I think it would be less oildrip with them, they are very tight.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&hilit=SKF+6004&start=9450#p969242
Hi Allex, Stock Fighter H40xx bearings are the ones with metal "dust" seals. Not the oil seals. Mine are now the oil sealed bearings. Just AUD8 each for some good Japanese bearings. Agree totally ... much less oil leakage with the proper oil sealed bearings. A tiny bit of oil still makes it's way between the inner bearing race and the axle. As I wrote previously, not enough to worry about.

CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi and thanks Emmett and Allex for the prompt responses,
I may have to fit a 19 X 1.6 rim to fit the tubliss, as I currently have a 1.4 fitted, and also replace the bearings as Allex suggests. I recall one of them had only metal dust covers. I have a lathe and can groove the side covers easily.
Clinton, If you already have a 19x1.4 laced up, then I'd use it first. With a 19x2.5 or 19x3.0 UHD tube. Might be fine. Take a tube puncture repair kit on the trail, with a pair of light weight tyre levers. The VRM tyre is pretty easy to peel off. I've not tried but I expect it'd be reasonably easy to pull one bead off without undoing the axle. Of course be sure to push the bead into the rim middle groove on the opposite side. Then you could pull the tube out and patch it quick and easy. If you are a rim lacing guru and have a 1.6 rim, then go for it. With a 1.6, the 19" Tubliss works well after you trim down the rim lock and rubber stem block as I described previously. If I had a Bomber, I'd go a 1.6 with Tubliss and the bigger SR241 19x2.75 tyre. Just a bit more tyre would be worth the weight gain.
 
Steve
The last 5 mph can b done just needs right conditions
maybe u weight more, or ur battery needs a couple of cycles to break in
Tyre pressures etc
Flat road
These all make a difference
If im on road i tend to use 7-9
Feed the throttle in and build up to top speed
Hard to explain but its not like a petrol throttle
But in sure u know that,it gets better the more u ride it
 
Yesterday I got 84km/h (52mph) on a dead flat and I weigh 108kg (238lb) and I had to slow down because I got to the end of the road. So 50mph+ is very possible on a Bomber... (*B52)
 
Also, I see the "Quigley Motorsport Gen 2.1 Kickstand" is now available..........FOR $500!!!! WTF!!!!

I think Stealth "aftermarketeer's" think just because you spent $XXXXX.XX on a bike you'll pay 5 time's retail for thing's... Like the quigley mud guard's..

Or am I wrong and that stand is worth $500???......
 
00Tj said:
Yesterday I got 84km/h (52mph) on a dead flat and I weigh 108kg (238lb) and I had to slow down because I got to the end of the road. So 50mph+ is very possible on a Bomber... (*B52)

I have nob blies on mine so maybe it will be faster with smooth road tires

thx
steve
 
stevebills said:
hello and how do i get the fastest excelleraion from a bomber at the moment i have started in 9th gear and peedle with throttle on full
and is the a better way or any tips how to get it faster than 45mph apart for lose 5 stone?

thx
steve

Wind direction, and ambient temperature makes a big difference. My bikes gets 50 mph pretty easy as long as it's not against the wind.
 
00Tj said:
Also, I see the "Quigley Motorsport Gen 2.1 Kickstand" is now available..........FOR $500!!!! WTF!!!!

I think Stealth "aftermarketeer's" think just because you spent $XXXXX.XX on a bike you'll pay 5 time's retail for thing's... Like the quigley mud guard's..

Or am I wrong and that stand is worth $500???......

quigley in Spanish means I am having your pants down

I think the price is up there because of small manufacturing batches, and a lot of the process is hand made. A while back, I was trying to make my own ebike frame. I bet I have put 100+ hours into it, plus a grand in materials, and I still didn't get a working prototype. Anyway the price is probably high because of the time consumed to construct and manufacture the stand. Either way, Quigly isn't forcing us to buy his stand. If some of us thinks its way over priced, my advise is don't buy it. No need to bad mouth anyone over it.
 
Well considering it's the only stand made for the bomber what other choice is there?

And Steve.. That speed was with the 3.0 nobblies... I only just put on my new Crazy Bob's tonight.. First ride with them tomorrow!!
 
My Moose racing stand works great, and only cost $115. It's not as sexy looking as that $500 stand, but after about a week you get used to it, and it's actually looks pretty good on the bike.

I could also argue that it's a better stand overall, because it more robust, and it's in a better location.

 
I finally got off my ass and changed one tire. I'll do the other one tomorrow. These Hook Worms sure are little. It's pretty hard for me to believe they'll be able to out corner the thick Bricks from looking at them. Just the sheer amount of rubber the Thick Bricks lay down on the road says there's probably no way to beat them. I probably won't care though. I'm only changing them for cosmetic reasons anyway. I think acceleration will improve a little from the gearing reduction.

The Kenda Downhill tubes I bought are super thick. Easily the thickest tubes I've ever used. I've been whacking rubber off an old truck inner tube in my shop that's not nearly as thick these. I also reused my Mr Tuffy tube liners, so hopefully I'll be as flat resistant as before, knock on wood. I haven't had a flat in over 4000 miles now.

I may have to do a little work on my fenders now because they're going to be standing up so high off the tires.

Eventually I'll post some pics.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I finally got off my ass and changed one tire. I'll do the other one tomorrow. These Hook Worms sure are little. It's pretty hard for me to believe they'll be able to out corner the thick Bricks from looking at them. Just the sheer amount of rubber the Thick Bricks lay down on the road says there's probably no way to beat them. I probably won't care though. I'm only changing them for cosmetic reasons anyway. I think acceleration will improve a little from the gearing reduction.

The Kenda Downhill tubes I bought are super thick. Easily the thickest tubes I've ever used. I've been whacking rubber off an old truck inner tube in my shop that's not nearly as thick these. I also reused my Mr Tuffy tube liners, so hopefully I'll be as flat resistant as before, knock on wood. I haven't had a flat in over 4000 miles now.

I may have to do a little work on my fenders now because they're going to be standing up so high off the tires.

Eventually I'll post some pics.

The 3" Thick Bricks actual width on stock rims is 2.75" or call it 70mm
The 2.5" Hook Worms on stock rims is 2.44" or call it 62mm.

The difference in circumference is even greater. I measure it tomorrow.
 
remf said:
[youtube]0ZFq-09gzTw[/youtube]

BRAINS !!!

THIS IS THE BEST SHORT STEALTH ebike FILM EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very hot chick, riding a bomber in zombie land apocalypse, AWESOME!.
 
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