E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

You can gain 5mm if you reorganize the positive wire(main power) going from one halve to another.
Another ~3 mm if you remove all protection. There is actually not much protection just a thin layer of "plastic" around the pouch packs and then the blue heatshrink on top of it.

Bare pack is roughly 154mm by 108mm
 

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Wow, it will just fit in at at 108. very tempting. The battery hatch is smaller than the battery compartment. i could rewrap the battery and stick foam to the sides of the compartment.

Thanks Allex!
 
Rix said:
I know you have had these forks apart a few times, and there is only so much that can be done with them because of their design, but I had no issues with stiction from the stanchions or anything, until I blew fluid out the bottom (R) leg and things went to shit in a hurry. Conversely, the RSTs on my old bomber acted like there was super glue in the seals and stuck so bad that they felt like they compressed in stages through the stroke.
Rix, One theory which would explain your experience, is that your older RST fork contained low friction damper seals, but they blew out. And perhaps many blew out for other owner's of the R1. So in more recent RST R1 forks they installed a much tougher seal, but unfortunately also a very sticky seal. So bad, that the fork doesn't really work. In mine, I'll try use the fork for something, so I'll remove the sticky seal soon, and see if it can be replaced. It's easy to remove it.
 
We're now into the best riding season in Dallas. 80s in the daytime, 70s in the evening. This time passes so quickly into the oven of summer.
 
Allex said:
Why, why did people settle in the cold lands in times of the begining?
Because back then the earth was flat and the warm weather was over the edge of the cliff :p
Our English ancestors thought they were cleaning up the country by sending all of their petty criminals to Australia but in actual fact they ended up doing us a huge favour. Thanks King George III :mrgreen:
 
Crap, I did a bad thing. When I installed my headlight last year I didn't properly secure the wire going into the back of the headlight shell. Moving the handle bars back and forth caused one of the wires to break where is connects to the LEDs. In the back of the headlight is a resistor that I didn't pay much attention to also. Plus I paralleled the LED taillight off the same dc/dc converter running the headlight, and also my 2 switch illumination lights, that are 6v. the illumination lights have extra resistors to run on 12v.

So I was leaving a friends house after dark, and as I headed out the driveway I noticed my headlight was going intermittent. I made it home, but that's when everything went bad. After looking behind the headlight I noticed the broken wire. I decided to cut the wire to the headlight, because after repairing it I'm planning to put a plug on it to make removing it easier. Not realizing the resistor might have anything to do with the dc/dc convertor, I turned on the lights. That was a big mistake. The taillight was fried before I ever even saw it, but I did have time to look down at my illumination lights as smoke started pouring out of them.

All my LED lights are fried. Not the CA though, only the lights I installed. Apparently when I cut the headlight off, removing the big resistor out of the circuit it caused the dc/dc converter to fry, and passed 72v through to the LEDs when I tried it. Nothing apparently shorted out, and it didn't blow the 1/2 amp fuse in the CA.

I replaced my switches even though I think only the illumination lights failed, not the switches themselves. I've decided not to wire the illumination lights this time, because they don't really do anything, and it's just one more thing to fail. I ordered a couple new taillights, a new headlight. The headlight is what I'm waiting for now.
 
Emmett said:
Rix said:
I know you have had these forks apart a few times, and there is only so much that can be done with them because of their design, but I had no issues with stiction from the stanchions or anything, until I blew fluid out the bottom (R) leg and things went to shit in a hurry. Conversely, the RSTs on my old bomber acted like there was super glue in the seals and stuck so bad that they felt like they compressed in stages through the stroke.
Rix, One theory which would explain your experience, is that your older RST fork contained low friction damper seals, but they blew out. And perhaps many blew out for other owner's of the R1. So in more recent RST R1 forks they installed a much tougher seal, but unfortunately also a very sticky seal. So bad, that the fork doesn't really work. In mine, I'll try use the fork for something, so I'll remove the sticky seal soon, and see if it can be replaced. It's easy to remove it.

Could be, I am told that SKF makes some Teflon impregnated seals for forks, I would like to rebuild the RST and use those seals, if they would fit.
 
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

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2015_04_02_23_18_03.jpg
 
bigbore said:
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

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Hahaha! Sucka!
 
You can make the side plates in carbon you're self for around 60usd. But yeah.. it should have been carbon not fake, form the factory.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/200-x250-x0-2mm-Carbon-Fiber-plate-panel-sheet-3K-plain-weave-with-carbon/928866398.html
 
bigbore said:
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

2015_04_03_00_01_41.jpg


2015_04_02_23_18_03.jpg

Tell me more about this pas system ?
 
Quick question about the stealth. I just bought a new 2014 Stealth bomber from a dealer in my hometown. After my first ride Ive came to the conclusion that if I use the throttle for the majority of the ride, I will only average 38 Kms/ 23.75 miles per charge. This is terrible in my opinion and doesn't give me the flexibility I thought I had. Will this get better with time ? Could this be due to the fact that it has been sitting around on the shop floor for a year doing nothing ? I was thinking at worst id average 60KMS per charge throttle only. During this first rip my average speed was only about 40kph
 
ryan1685 said:
Quick question about the stealth. I just bought a new 2014 Stealth bomber from a dealer in my hometown. After my first ride Ive came to the conclusion that if I use the throttle for the majority of the ride, I will only average 38 Kms/ 23.75 miles per charge. This is terrible in my opinion and doesn't give me the flexibility I thought I had. Will this get better with time ? Could this be due to the fact that it has been sitting around on the shop floor for a year doing nothing ? I was thinking at worst id average 60KMS per charge throttle only. During this first rip my average speed was only about 40kph

That sounds pretty good to me.
 
Before you go down the battery replacement path, take the time learn how to ride the bike economically. I am sure you could extend the range and still average 40kph. That being said, to average 40kph, you tend to spend a lot of time above 50 kph. A range of around 40km riding at that speed sounds about right to me.
 
Jimboyr6 said:
bigbore said:
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

Tell me more about this pas system ?


Yes, please tell us more. 8)
 
ryan1685 said:
Quick question about the stealth. I just bought a new 2014 Stealth bomber from a dealer in my hometown. After my first ride Ive came to the conclusion that if I use the throttle for the majority of the ride, I will only average 38 Kms/ 23.75 miles per charge. This is terrible in my opinion and doesn't give me the flexibility I thought I had. Will this get better with time ? Could this be due to the fact that it has been sitting around on the shop floor for a year doing nothing ? I was thinking at worst id average 60KMS per charge throttle only. During this first rip my average speed was only about 40kph

Adding to what Kepler said, when I had my bomber, and I pedal assisted and kept speeds between 15 and 20mph, or 24-30km/h, I could easily get OVER 50miles or 80 kms out of it. This was on flat paved roads and bike paths. Of course if I just rode around WOT with speeds above 40mph or about 65 kph, I could kill the battery in 17 miles or about 28kms. Its possible if your new 2014 has been sitting around and not being used at all, that your battery could have lost some of its capacity from lack of use. But more likely you need to get some charge cycles under your belt, these batteries seem to work better, have less voltage sag, and store more energy after about 25 charge/discharge cycles.
 
bigbore said:
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

2015_04_03_00_01_41.jpg


2015_04_02_23_18_03.jpg


Wait till you try and take em off.. your gonna love that... the sticker is applied to the aluminum center plate then glued to the surround. You can't off the sticker unless you remove the center plate from the surround. nice..
 
ryan1685 said:
Quick question about the stealth. I just bought a new 2014 Stealth bomber from a dealer in my hometown. After my first ride Ive came to the conclusion that if I use the throttle for the majority of the ride, I will only average 38 Kms/ 23.75 miles per charge. This is terrible in my opinion and doesn't give me the flexibility I thought I had. Will this get better with time ? Could this be due to the fact that it has been sitting around on the shop floor for a year doing nothing ? I was thinking at worst id average 60KMS per charge throttle only. During this first rip my average speed was only about 40kph

Depends on how you ride. ride it like a dirtbike lost of elevation changes expect 1 mile per amp. Ride it like a bicycle w assist and on fire roads 40+ miles, on flat pavement I've gone 55 miles w a little left.
 
The least distance I have had off a 100% charge is just under 30km's.. And that was going an average of 65km/h.. The most distance I have had was almost 80km's, and that was with pedalling at about 25km/h.

Another question, what sort of clearance do you guy's have inbetween the crank arms and the swing arm? I only have 1mm or 2 on both sides? Is that too close???
 
bigbore said:
I have the Bomber from one week and it is still in pieces as delivered because I have been designing a kickstand and have been installing a PAS system on the right side of the V-Boxx.
For the moment everything is fine except the fake carbon fiber stickers that I have on the side panels, with the price this e-bike costs I thought they were real carbon fiber. If you buy a Ferrari you get real carbon parts :eek:

2015_04_03_00_01_41.jpg


2015_04_02_23_18_03.jpg

He came dropped a bom and now bigbore has disappeared u cant just come on here,say u doing a pas system etc
And not fill us in with all the tech :cry:
 
00Tj said:
The least distance I have had off a 100% charge is just under 30km's.. And that was going an average of 65km/h.. The most distance I have had was almost 80km's, and that was with pedalling at about 25km/h.

Another question, what sort of clearance do you guy's have inbetween the crank arms and the swing arm? I only have 1mm or 2 on both sides? Is that too close???

Yep, its a tight fit. Like a Ferrari.
 
00Tj said:
Another question, what sort of clearance do you guy's have inbetween the crank arms and the swing arm? I only have 1mm or 2 on both sides? Is that too close???

I have over 6mm on the left, and about 8mm on the right.

Make sure your swing arm is centered. There's enough room on the swing arm bearings that you could be off a little to one side or the other.
 
ryan1685 said:
Quick question about the stealth. I just bought a new 2014 Stealth bomber from a dealer in my hometown. After my first ride Ive came to the conclusion that if I use the throttle for the majority of the ride, I will only average 38 Kms/ 23.75 miles per charge. This is terrible in my opinion and doesn't give me the flexibility I thought I had. Will this get better with time ? Could this be due to the fact that it has been sitting around on the shop floor for a year doing nothing ? I was thinking at worst id average 60KMS per charge throttle only. During this first rip my average speed was only about 40kph


Since your bike is new you're probably not used to riding it efficiently yet. It's easy to waste a lot of power on takeoff, and your throttle hand is probably clumsy. If it's still cold where you are, that makes a big difference too.

Basically when conditions are good on flat ground you should easily get 20 miles running 45 plus mph. 30 mph should get you 30 miles, and 15 to 20 mph should get you 50 miles. 15 mph or less you can get 65 miles plus.

Hills suck a lot of extra power, and headwinds take a big toll too.
 
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