E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Cool thanks for that Rix. Allex is your motor still the latest version available from MAC of this type motor? As you say it would be interesting to see if it can be compatible with the stock controller, but if it needs changing then thats fine. I bought the bike mostly to help me get up the steep mountain roads at home, but unfortunately that is its one weakness in stock form...
 
referring to Pete de Vries's post:
so... Allex's motor is in a 24 inch wheel... Rix's P7 has a 24 inch wheel, which seems to work well - why wouldn't a mac 12T, in a 24 inch wheel, if needs be with a new controller and CA3, be the answer? What battery has the P7 got, i.e. how many amps could be drawn out?
 
PRW said:
referring to Pete de Vries's post:
so... Allex's motor is in a 24 inch wheel... Rix's P7 has a 24 inch wheel, which seems to work well - why wouldn't a mac 12T, in a 24 inch wheel, if needs be with a new controller and CA3, be the answer? What battery has the P7 got, i.e. how many amps could be drawn out?

Hi there i am hoping to run a 26" or 27.5" wheel as the Stealth P7 comes factory with 27.5" rims. If i need to i could swap down to 24" but to be honest id prefer not to go below 26" as it keeps it looking quite "push bike ish " in the local park areas etc. Ultimately it would be great if i could just fit a 12t MAC with everything else stock on say a 26" rim , but im open to do whats necessary as i still have to resort to pushing my bike up the steeper roads as even with power and pedals its still not enough oomph in stock form ! And i am getting ever closer to needing new knees so i would like to look after whats left of them lol.
 

Attachments

  • 2020-05-28 13.01.38.jpg
    2020-05-28 13.01.38.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 1,215
PRW said:
referring to Pete de Vries's post:
so... Allex's motor is in a 24 inch wheel... Rix's P7 has a 24 inch wheel, which seems to work well - why wouldn't a mac 12T, in a 24 inch wheel, if needs be with a new controller and CA3, be the answer? What battery has the P7 got, i.e. how many amps could be drawn out?

Yah, the 24MTB tires are so sweet on the P7s. My dad liked mine so much he went to a 24 wheel setup on my other, or I should say his now P7. My uncle is running a 24 rear 26 front on his Beta and loves the 24 on the rear. Hes got a Mac10 running the same controller and 12s, so top speeds are about the same as the 12T and the 13s. The P7 battery comes with a 40amp BMS, so it can handle that much. Stealth is very tight lipped about the cells in the pack, but I do know we have 18650 cells, just don't know which ones.
 
Pete de Vries said:
Cool thanks for that Rix. Allex is your motor still the latest version available from MAC of this type motor? As you say it would be interesting to see if it can be compatible with the stock controller, but if it needs changing then thats fine. I bought the bike mostly to help me get up the steep mountain roads at home, but unfortunately that is its one weakness in stock form...

Here are some pics of my P7s and Beta. The top pic is of P7 ser#000 with the stock wheel up front and a 26MTB wheel on the rear before we went to 24s front and rear. The middle bike in the top pic is of my Beta with a Mac10 24MTB rear and 26MTB front with 2.6" wide tires. Bottom pic is a close up of the Beta.
 

Attachments

  • P7 Beta.jpg
    P7 Beta.jpg
    246.7 KB · Views: 1,184
  • beta.jpg
    beta.jpg
    206.8 KB · Views: 1,184
script>
 
Rix said:
PRW said:
referring to Pete de Vries's post:
so... Allex's motor is in a 24 inch wheel... Rix's P7 has a 24 inch wheel, which seems to work well - why wouldn't a mac 12T, in a 24 inch wheel, if needs be with a new controller and CA3, be the answer? What battery has the P7 got, i.e. how many amps could be drawn out?

Yah, the 24MTB tires are so sweet on the P7s. My dad liked mine so much he went to a 24 wheel setup on my other, or I should say his now P7. My uncle is running a 24 rear 26 front on his Beta and loves the 24 on the rear. Hes got a Mac10 running the same controller and 12s, so top speeds are about the same as the 12T and the 13s. The P7 battery comes with a 40amp BMS, so it can handle that much. Stealth is very tight lipped about the cells in the pack, but I do know we have 18650 cells, just don't know which ones.

Thanks Rix for the info. Wow you have a nice collection of Stealth products !! Yes im thinking i will try for a 12t MAC in a 26" wheel, but if it still isnt quite enough then i will go down to a 24" wheel. I will leave my 9t factory MAC and 26" wheel as a complete unit as its great for the longer flatter rides, just not suited to long or steep uphill sections. One question for today, is my MAC motor able to have a cooling fluid added ? Ive read a little so far that some motor types can have ATF or ? Castor oil ? Added will help with heat transfer. Sounds like a good idea at least. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
 
David Pearce and Kepler have both experimented with oil cooling these geared hub motors with success, at the price of being messy and hard to keep the fluid inside of the hub motor. That said, its not something you will have to worry about if you are going to run a 12T with the stock controller. Because the controller is inside of the frame, it will get hot and go into thermo roll back long before you get the Mac 12 hot enough to do any damage.
 
who is using 26” x 4”
i have 177mm dropout and ive read that it is 26” with tyre and the rim is smaller, of thats the case i can get the wheel and tyre in with a few mm to spare especially sinve as it narrows the tyre should round off too. Problem is ive also read 26” comes up as 29” something with tyre!
please advise


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
[/quote] From Theo!

My 24 ah pack is about the same as the 35, but the stock 18 ah used to get pretty warm. More than either on my 18650 packs. That makes sense to me, it's the smallest capacity pack, so it works the hardest.
[/quote]

TV Apologies I'm a couple of months late here..... I've now done 5800kms as of today on my MJ1 3500MAH pack.
Mine is 22S not 20S = bike is 10% faster -spewing you didnt follow my lead :(

my average distance between charges has increased as lost my job (COVID), got another (4hrs later ) that comes with a car hence riding is not so much of a commute but for mental/physical health.

As for pack Temps 135deg F is only 57degC. I can tell you you can easily get to that, go do 20-25Miles Flat out in a 50mph zone!

As for rating at 100A for 10P..... Sorry Whilst this is the theoretical max discharge rate the cells get about a 30degC (86F) rise after said 25Mile thrashing - whilst my bike runs 65-75A or so according to the CA......thats enough as the cell heating is wasting the stored energy as heat vs useful work.

I did a 103km ride today, 45kms each way to the bottom of a F'n big hill as "training support" for a friend on a non ebike. so 13kms of said hill made up of 6.5kms round trip up down.
I had the opportunity to steal 30mins charge with my 11A charger, giving me an additional 5.5Ah whilst i had a coffee (and a sneaky beer)

When i got home avg speed is 40km/hr 30WH/km and 40AH which is about right as a little bit left and I'm only charging to 90V.

Hence 5800kms and 0% measurable loss from the pack.

VERY VERY HAPPY - so happy i again considered upgrading it to 22S12P today. Answer from the missus "CUT YOUR DRINKING FROM 8beers to 6 beers a day" this would save me about 1 cell per day and in a couple of months i will have the cash BUT i will be much fitter and not needing the extra kWh anyway.

As it turns out, as the way the pack is constructed its not as simple an exercise as adding another couple of cells down one side and i'm in the - Build the next pack as 22S 12P from the start.
 
Is the bloke that posted a couple of months back for a charger in ADELAIDE get sorted?

poor mans charger https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BST-900W-Boost-Converter-Step-up-Module-DC-DC-CNC-Adjustable-120V-15A-Charging/383573813404?hash=item594ec7e89c:g:wOcAAOSwUg5e13Qy

plug in an old laptop power supply ~18V 100W
gets about 80W out the other side with some tweaking
whilst thats only 1A into the pack, the original pack likely an overnight scenario and OK.

for $35 its an OK solution - cant feed it with 2 laptop chargers (im not sure why) as doesnt work so great.
can buy two and run the Higher voltage side in parallel or use a PC power supply at 12V and ~350W (make sure its not getting smoking hot of course)
 
Rix said:
Pete de Vries said:
Rix said:
Pete de Vries said:
Wow Rix thats a heavily modified P7 !! My bike is serial number 41. I remember when i ordered it that they said mine came with the latest upgraded battery pack. I just looked at the motor. Cant see a brand name on it but it does have a part number (M20171-0036) . Hope that helps mate. Im afraid im a real novice on the ebike scene, so would really appreciate advice on what motor etc to buy to get me up these hills ! I specialise in machining, tig welding and fabrication but ive always stayed out of the electronics game. Cheers mate.

I have to P7, the first P7 has a serial number of 000, and the P7 I have in the picture is 096. Anyway, lets see what you go, can you take a picture of your hubmotor on your bike and post it, I can tell by looking at it if you have a MAC or Bafang.

Hey Rix thanks for the assistance. Hopefully my pics attach ok. My first go on here. I am thinking its a MAC motor going by quick internet search. Do you know the specs of the factory motor vs a 12 turn MAC motor ? I am hoping all going well that i can buy a 12 turn MAC and lace it into the spare 27.5" rim i have and it will work with the factory controller etc ? Would you also know the plug on the motor side that i will need to purchase so that it will plug into the Stealth plug on the swingarm. Oh and i guess do i purchase a motor direct from MAC in china ? I am in Australia but so far i haven't found an Australian seller of these. Apologies for the basic questions . Ive always been into motorbikes and quadbikes. This ebike thing is all very new to me ( and great fun to ride)

You have the Mac motor. The Stealth Spec'd Mac motor is a 9T wind. I don't know if you can buy a 12T set up to directly plug into the stock controller, you may have to set that up your self. That said, you wont notice much of an increase in acceleration if you use Stealth's stock controller, they have it programmed to not start off quick, but to add power gradually, thats why your bike is faster at accelerating above 5-10 km/H than it is from dead stop. Getting a 12T in a 27.5 rim is no problem though.

You can buy a complete MAC motor from Paul at www.em3-ev.com simply undo the side plate, pull the motor assy out the side and drop the 12T into the wheel you have, sorted -they say they are matched etc etc but i've swapped a few being too lazy to repair all the wiring after a stack and much cheaper than freighting a whole wheel assy.
get a 12 FET controller to push 40A to it and you have a ripper bike. If thats not enough, unfortunately there are some $$ to spend. My bomber got a birthday UFO5565 from stealth at $1400 or so for use with my bike as I'm getting the original motor relaced into a 19" moto rim so i can use some motorcycle rubber.

I'm sure there are shit loads of options with MIXUS, QS motors etc. Ultimately if you want to go FAST and have heaps of off the line stonk there is no getting past it, its a bloody expensive exercise which is why CD got ~$10K for his fighter - he'd probably bought the bike twice by the time he sold it.

I met a guy who pulled a set of FOX forks off his brand new downhill bike to use the next model FOX up at about $2.5K!
sure sure i get it but.... the bike was sparkling dont think he'd ever actually ridden it!
 
script>


Just did a fresh rebuild on my Marzochhi 888 with the Avalanche Downhill Racing internals in them... Good god are these forks good.. Better than any other MTB/Downhill forks I've ridden so far. Avalanche custom set them up to my specs and riding style..
Square edge??? whats that?? no chatter, no harshness, ability to hit jumps no prob...and the front is very predictable... I can put it where ever I want.....Super comfy very plush.... The rissie racing clamps def help as well to get more weight over the front fo sho..

It crazy going from the stock DNM forks BLAH...... to the stock zocchis. ok better.....To the avalanche set up which are on another planet.. They ride better than my friggin modded Dol Soggio KTM WP forks!....WTF????
The Avalanche Kit is all custom milled metal parts and not cheap ass plastic "we are saving weight" bullshit sotck MTB fork internals..

OK so going toe to toe with my tuned CRF/Showa well maybe not but damn they are really good...If I can get the rear to get close to this I will be very happy....
In the rear I modded the DNM shock, trying a few different weight springs I used canon racecraft to make them for me... ( I have recently read that FOX springs will fit.. may have to confirm this..) and also revalved the shims to a 3 stage and adjusted the nitrogen level which made the shock much better than stock but still not nearly where I want it to be.

Im thinking im going to get Avalanche to build me a shock for the rear and get rid of that DNM....

Im rambling....
 
Back
Top