E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hi Folks,
I have had Bomber no. 289 since about June and it is a very nice machine.
Thanks to this forum I have found answers to many of the issues I have had to keep the Bomber going and more importantly improve its rideability and reliability. The biggest improvement was the 19x1.4 motorcycle rim and shinko tyre. Since lacing this rim I have snapped spokes regularly and am awaiting 8 gauge spokes to remedy this.

The problem that has prompted me to post on this forum is the rear suspension or shock.
Being reasonably familiar with suspension setup from owning various mountain bikes and dirt bikes over the years I think I have exhausted the available setup options to improve rear suspension performance.
I know I shouldn't be expecting it to perform like the KTM or DH bike though I am sure it can be better and shouldn't belt me in the butt and skip around over bumps.
I have played with preload, rebound and compression and have it adjusted the best I can however it seems to me to be too stiff. The shock came with a 750lb spring and I am after a 700lb instead as I have near no preload and it still seems too hard. I found increasing the preload made the rear worse. I modified the collet spanners that came with the bike to allow me to adjust the preload without removing the shock and have spent a lot of rides playing with the rear shock to no avail.
I am hoping someone can tell me where I can get hold of a 700lb spring for the DNM shock. Acccording to DNM they do not make a 700lb spring.

On another note, one modification others on this forum may be interested in is a rear brake/regen brake modification I made. I initially fitted a brake switch off my KTM to the rear brake to switch the regen brake on whenever I hit the rear brake. I found this was not suitable as it engaged when you did not want and cut power when I inadvertantly touched the rear brake lever. I then wired in another switch to alternate beteween the standard regen button only or both the standard button and the brake switch and this was better as I could use the brake switch when I wanted depending where I was riding. I have since put a spring on a pin that doesn't switch the regent brake on until the end of the lever freeplay and this seems to be the goods. I always have it switched over to both now as it significantly improves the rear brake perfomance and I assume marginally extends my range, though this is hard to guage.

I hope someone is able to advise where I can track down a 700lb spring. I am in Sydney, Aust.
Thanks
Clinton
 
Clinton, welcome to the thread. Funny that DNM said they didn't have a 700# Spring. I orderd a DNM shock for another Bomber owner and it came with the 700# spring. Don't know how much you weigh, but I am right around the 250=260# rider weight depending on what I am carrying in my Camel Back. THe 750# spring with compression turned two click from all of the way soft seems good. With your familiarity with KTMs PDS system, the best thing you can do is run your rebound slower than you think you should. This will help with some of the harshness after compression with your bike. But I agree with your diagnosis that a 700# spring would be your best solution. Andrew AKA Cruzxia was playing with the valving on his. Send him a PM, he also has an extensive background with dirt bikes and may have a better valving solution. I don't know how many miles/hours you have on your Bomber, At 4k Miles, my rear shock finaly broke in and now feels more plush than ever before.

Rick
 
do i suppose to feel anything when my battery brake in ? my CA says 38 charge and don't see any difference
 
I'm looking into suspension upgrades for my Fighter. I ride very rocky/rooted single tracks and scary a$$ downhills and would like best suspension I can get for around $1500.

Will these front shocks need any mods to fit my Fighter? Would I have to replace the Gator brakes?
FOX 40 R 26 203mm / 8 inch WHITE 20MM QR
Link-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2014-FOX-40-R-26-203mm-8-inch-WHITE-20MM-QR-/181206352712?pt=US_Forks&hash=item2a30bd8348


What is a good option for the rear shock?
Opinions please :arrow:
Thanks
 
MAFIA said:
do i suppose to feel anything when my battery brake in ? my CA says 38 charge and don't see any difference
Click to expand...

Mafia, I do not think you will see it. The figures are so small so it will not be noticeable. I Received my clamp meter. Will try to calibrate soon Because my CA still reads 15Ah when BMS is shutting off.
I changed the tyres today from Razorback to Maxxis Holy Roller. They looks much smaller than Razors and much lighter(but thinner of course). Kept the Razor tube, it is bigger than Maxxis tyre so it was a bit of a tight fit.
With of the Razors is 71mm and Maxxis 58mm.
 

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I have a mystery technical question. Yesterday i took the bike at a workshop to install a marzocchi fork. Before that the bike was working just fine. When i got it back , what i noticed was that its top speed has dropped by 20kph short. My bike usually goes up to 85-90 kph on the road(my wheel radius could be wrong), and 105kph with the wheel of the ground. Now it goes up to 70kph only. When i have full throtle on , acceleration is fine, only till it reaches 70. Thats when one feels that there is no more power available. Before that the bike was giving me the impression , under full throttle of being in a constant struggle to keep accelerating on and on. The bike had been fully charged during this. What could be wrong ?

When i went to pick up the bike from the shop , work had not been fininshed and i saw what he was doing. The bike was in an upside working position (seat post workshop stand) which i found a little strange for a bike that heavy. Another thing was , that this guy told me that he pulled the cables comming out of the frame and placed a ziptie to make them more tidy. I cant imagine what the problem is. Generally this workshop i consider good and careful.
 
I would start and check all CA settings maybe he changed them, like max speed or something.
Also your speed of 90 on flat is a bit high, measure the wheel and double check your wheel diameter in CA
 
MAFIA said:
do i suppose to feel anything when my battery brake in ? my CA says 38 charge and don't see any difference
Click to expand...


Given that ambient temps being the same, you should notice slightly less voltage sag and tad bit more distance before you start bouncing off the LVC after the battery is broken in. For me, when my battery was really new, if I blipped the throttle wide open from standstill to 5mph, my voltage would drop to about 72 on a full charge breifly. After about 30 cycles, my battery voltage only dropped to 73.8-74 volts. it wouldn't get below 72 until about 700 watts was consumed. Now after about 300 cycles, I am droping down into the 73 range on a full charge. Bike doesn't feel any faster than before.

I have a mystery technical question. Yesterday i took the bike at a workshop to install a marzocchi fork. Before that the bike was working just fine. When i got it back , what i noticed was that its top speed has dropped by 20kph short. My bike usually goes up to 85-90 kph on the road(my wheel radius could be wrong), and 105kph with the wheel of the ground. Now it goes up to 70kph only. When i have full throtle on , acceleration is fine, only till it reaches 70. Thats when one feels that there is no more power available. Before that the bike was giving me the impression , under full throttle of being in a constant struggle to keep accelerating on and on. The bike had been fully charged during this. What could be wrong ?
Click to expand...

Under your Menu settings on your ca, check the KPH setting. Should read 99KPH. Being that you are 70Kph with you on it and wheel off the ground, sounds like this may be the culprit.

Rick
 
Thanks Rick , ca is ok. I have opened the side covers and wiggled a little with the wires, tested again and it worked fine with the wheel of the ground. Then i took it for a ride on the road and again the same thing. Another thing i have noticed is that for brief moments while wot, it performed fully on and off for a second or half a second. Another thing is that regen button didnt work at some point. Is it black magic?




Rix said:
MAFIA said:
do i suppose to feel anything when my battery brake in ? my CA says 38 charge and don't see any difference
Click to expand...


Given that ambient temps being the same, you should notice slightly less voltage sag and tad bit more distance before you start bouncing off the LVC after the battery is broken in. For me, when my battery was really new, if I blipped the throttle wide open from standstill to 5mph, my voltage would drop to about 72 on a full charge breifly. After about 30 cycles, my battery voltage only dropped to 73.8-74 volts. it wouldn't get below 72 until about 700 watts was consumed. Now after about 300 cycles, I am droping down into the 73 range on a full charge. Bike doesn't feel any faster than before.

I have a mystery technical question. Yesterday i took the bike at a workshop to install a marzocchi fork. Before that the bike was working just fine. When i got it back , what i noticed was that its top speed has dropped by 20kph short. My bike usually goes up to 85-90 kph on the road(my wheel radius could be wrong), and 105kph with the wheel of the ground. Now it goes up to 70kph only. When i have full throtle on , acceleration is fine, only till it reaches 70. Thats when one feels that there is no more power available. Before that the bike was giving me the impression , under full throttle of being in a constant struggle to keep accelerating on and on. The bike had been fully charged during this. What could be wrong ?
Click to expand...

Under your Menu settings on your ca, check the KPH setting. Should read 99KPH. Being that you are 70Kph with you on it and wheel off the ground, sounds like this may be the culprit.

Rick
Click to expand...
 
selling my #40 updated black Bomber...I would like 10K for all or best offer

Bomber #40 but all updated with regen, new style rear shock and fOX 40.
two 2013 new style batteries, plug and ride with both batteries for longer trips up to 145 miles, 2nd battery on rear rack. Unplug and your back to the internal stock setup. Two CA's, 2nd large type on bars.
Bike has 2 ply Hookworms on it.
Cost of bike, extra parts and upgrades in USD

I don't see how I could ship all the goods so pick up would be best
Bike is located in USA, new york city

700 miles on battery one.
200 miles on battery two.
Bike was street driven and never off road or put down.


Bike 10,000
Fox 40 forks 1,400
extra battery 2,200
2nd rear wheel and motor
from Stealth 1,299
extra controler 600?
3 chargers, 400?
one new in the box
Stock RSI crap forks free
hydraulic lift 150
set of new dirt tires
razorbacks 100
Extra set of new 2 ply
Hookworm,prolly worth dbl:)120
6 sets of pads 150
extra 15T freewheel
with removal tool 60
stock 16T
with removal tool 50
hall tester free
500 lb Trailer hitch 100
Large CA 100
3 extra throttles
thumb, 1/2 and full 50
Honda kickstand 100
New style rear shock 0
Old style rear shock free
Nice bike seat 50
------------
$16,929
 
Athans, yah there is something wonky going on. I wonder if the shop inadvertantly did something when they tidied up your wiring? I was banking on the CA setting because the 70KPH reference and yet feeling like full power until you hit 70KPH. Now with the other symptoms you described, I really don't know what it could be. I am only marginally smart with electrics. I cant really do much electrical repair, just replace things. If I was you, I would contact Stealth and provide a very good and specific detailed description of whats going on with your machine. They will get on it. Just be patient because John K may not be available for the next few weeks because of the interbike show in Las Vegas going on this month. This is the only time of the year that he isn't available. But he has techs at the factory who are and they can get you sorted out.

Rick
 
I would check the thin hall wires, it is a small plug down by the crank, they may have loosened a joint when they played with the wiring. The plug is sort of spring loaded in 2 halves and you can unscrew the back to check the connections. They can be sensitive to moisture but they may have changed the design. Look up dlogics posts as I swapped to his type of plug from RS and it cured this for me.
 
These look like they're solid & not too far away:

http://www.jozztek.com/shop/13-throttles

Actually these might be the same but at lower cost:

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttlessinglespeed.html

&

http://ebikes.ca/store/store_controllers.php
 
i want to build a spare rear weel any reason why not or any advice please i need sizes of spokes,motor,wheel ring , free wheel etc actually all parts loool
 
MAFIA said:
i want to build a spare rear weel any reason why not or any advice please i need sizes of spokes,motor,wheel ring , free wheel etc actually all parts loool
Click to expand...

Your best bet would see if you can order another hub wheel build from Stealth as a replacement. I could advise you on spoke lenghts for 17 and 19X1.4 MC rims, but I cant on the stock rim being that I don't know what the ERD is for their rim. At a guess, 136mm would be your spoke length.

Rick
 
Rix said:
MAFIA said:
i want to build a spare rear weel any reason why not or any advice please i need sizes of spokes,motor,wheel ring , free wheel etc actually all parts loool
Click to expand...

Your best bet would see if you can order another hub wheel build from Stealth as a replacement. I could advise you on spoke lenghts for 17 and 19X1.4 MC rims, but I cant on the stock rim being that I don't know what the ERD is for their rim. At a guess, 136mm would be your spoke length.

Rick
Click to expand...


I'm looking into the same. A replacement Fighter wheel is $999+shipping from Australia. They won't be ready to ship for 2 weeks.
 
MAFIA said:
i want to build a spare rear weel any reason why not or any advice please i need sizes of spokes,motor,wheel ring , free wheel etc actually all parts loool
Click to expand...
I was actually looking for spare motor from Stealth to lace up on a different rim.
As far as I found out, Stealth will only sell complete laced up motor in their stock rim for USD $1250.
 
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