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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Looks like a new used Bomber is coming to me tomorrow... a white 2013 model in stock configuration. I have some Bomber 888RC on my downhill bike, should I put them on the Bomber? Will they fit or is it different sizes? I know next to nothing about bikes except that they are more fun with motors ;) I beleive my 888´s are 2008.

It´s time for my girlfriend to take over my mac powered Merida.

Cheers
Alex
 
morati said:
http://vr-zone.com/articles/lightning-fast-capacitors-ready-electric-cars/63935.html
Won't be long now......
wow morati that will be the best thing on earth
 
arcticfly said:
Looks like a new used Bomber is coming to me tomorrow... a white 2013 model in stock configuration. I have some Bomber 888RC on my downhill bike, should I put them on the Bomber? Will they fit or is it different sizes? I know next to nothing about bikes except that they are more fun with motors ;) I beleive my 888´s are 2008.

It´s time for my girlfriend to take over my mac powered Merida.

Cheers
Alex

Try the bomber with the RSTs first. You may like it. Yes the 888s are better, by a margin I might add, but if your not going through woops at high speed, or you plan on mostly road riding, the RSTs will be more than adequate. Your 888s should bolt right on, unless the steering tube is cut shorter than the RST on the Bomber, than you be fuqd. No sense of making to funtioning bicycles into one when you don't have too.

Rick
 
MAFIA said:
morati said:
http://vr-zone.com/articles/lightning-fast-capacitors-ready-electric-cars/63935.html
Won't be long now......
wow morati that will be the best thing on earth
Not really, in it's current state it's far from being practically useful for just about anything on wheels, especially something like a bike. No doubt as the tech develops it'll be more useful for light EVs. I reckon it'll be 5 years before we start to see anything dramatically better or different to what we have now.
The 16 second thing sounds good on paper but in the real world you'd need power cables as fat as your arm! Even if you said it was a conservative 60 second (1 minute) charge that would be 1200 amps!
I would think it more suited to military applications - big rail guns and stuff like that.
 
Got the bomber today. Number 213. Presumebly it got a new controller a couple of months ago as the old one crapped out. He was told it was more powerful than the old one. Any truth in that? I really do not think it is as torquey as I thought it would be. Not that big a change from my Mac setup. Can I get more Amps out of the controller? Is there any settings I could change to get more out of it, or is a 5404 or 5405 the only alternative if I want to use the same battery?

Cheers
Alex
 
And one more thing. The cycle analyst is not working. It is stuck and it cannot be reset or show km/h. Is this a standard CA? Or do I have to get one from Stealth?
 
Does it have the new lifepo4 battery, how many cycles? Maybe it is old and sagging a lot at WOT (wide open throttle) that's why you feel it to be sluggish? With properly set CA you should get around 65A amps on the display. Stealth use regular CA, so you can replace it. You cannot change the controller settings without modifying it first, see Keplers post above.
 
yes it has the new battery. only done 200 km´s total. cannot see how may amps total, as the screen is stuck.

On the CA there is a black cable that goes in a loop outside of the CA. On my bike it is cut. What does this do?
 
actionobject said:
should i really cut the red wire? or is there a better way ?? THX!!!

DONT CUT ANY RED WIRES. The only wire that should be cut is a very tiny (24G) black wire that loops in and out of the CA on the underside in the frame. That removes the amp restriction on the CA and will really wake up your bike.

On the CA there is a black cable that goes in a loop outside of the CA. On my bike it is cut. What does this do?

That would be the wire to cut.

Rick
 
Rix said:
actionobject said:
should i really cut the red wire? or is there a better way ?? THX!!!

DONT CUT ANY RED WIRES. The only wire that should be cut is a very tiny (24G) black wire that loops in and out of the CA on the underside in the frame. That removes the amp restriction on the CA and will really wake up your bike.

On the CA there is a black cable that goes in a loop outside of the CA. On my bike it is cut. What does this do?

That would be the wire to cut.

Rick
I think, not all wires to cut are the same colour, i think mine was red, or was it black i dont remember. So it may be red after all.
 
Thx everyone! The red wire was cut and what a difference!!!!

Beautifully smooth and quick!! Apparently the CPU resets itself automatically once this is done.

Rad - Stoked!!!
 
Rix said:
actionobject said:
should i really cut the red wire? or is there a better way ?? THX!!!

DONT CUT ANY RED WIRES. The only wire that should be cut is a very tiny (24G) black wire that loops in and out of the CA on the underside in the frame. That removes the amp restriction on the CA and will really wake up your bike.

On the CA there is a black cable that goes in a loop outside of the CA. On my bike it is cut. What does this do?

That would be the wire to cut.

Rick

Okay Action, I was wrong, that's the first red wire I have heard of, mine was black as were everyone else's up until now apparently. Glad you got your machine uncorked. Let the fun times begin :mrgreen: .

Rick
 
Don't cut the wrong wire fellas! :p

colored_wires_bomb_cutter_3268.jpg
 
All of this talk about wire cutting is giving me a complex that I may just shit the bed. I will have nightmares that I cut the red wire from the battery to the controller now :shock: Ebike PTSD is some scary shit. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Rick
 
is there anybody who like to mount bib mousse :twisted:
what a hell of a job... but once I finish this its better than a flat far far away...
 
pic yes, but still not finished
motor with 19" x 1.85 rim
sr241 19" with bib mousse

tomorrow I will get a larger mounting lever to try again

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1385072116.965697.jpg
 
Mounting Mousse tube has never been an easy. I used a ton of tire greese and 3 levers that had 20" long handles and a wheel holder which wont work for our hub motors, even then it was a pain in the ass with a capital "A". Mousse dont ever flat, the other good thing about Mousse tubes is you can't pinch them during mounting. Trust me when I say this, you got a job a head of you mounting that. The end product will be worth it. :mrgreen:
 
Rix said:
Mounting Mousse tube has never been an easy. I used a ton of tire greese and 3 levers that had 20" long handles and a wheel holder which wont work for our hub motors, even then it was a pain in the ass with a capital "A". Mousse dont ever flat, the other good thing about Mousse tubes is you can't pinch them during mounting. Trust me when I say this, you got a job a head of you mounting that. The end product will be worth it. :mrgreen:

Heh. I bumped into a mousse manufacturer at a field day earlier this year and talked about some of the pinch flatting woes of some owners. He took one look at the rim size/tyre when we started discussing if there were any mousse options and all he could say was 'good luck fitting them if you find one'. Now I see why..
 
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