E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

cut cat said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Has anyone put a Holems MMP rim to the test of hard riding and confirmed they don't easily crack or bend? I'd gladly live with the compromised nipple spoke angle in ProWheel rims, if their product has the best toughness for a light alum rim.
 
Rix said:
[quoteQMS » Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:47 pm
Hi guys, here's a few pics of an earlier model Bomber we fully serviced and fitted new brakes, new MRP Groove 200 shocks, Highrise bars, and a heavy duty MC rear rim and tyre. After the shock upgrade and new rear wheel this one is just about the best Bomber I've ever ridden (and I've ridden a bunch of them). Over jumps and your general urban terrain the landing characteristics are "outstanding". She just lands dead! "Very tight unit".
]

Yah Quigly, that Bomber looks sweet. And as you found out, that moto rear tire changes the confidence factor immensely. Your customer will no doubt love it.[/quote]

Hey Rix, TV, Ezza & cut cat, It would be good if this rim & tyre setup was available from the factory at least as an option it would save a lot of smashed rims. Rix the client should be stoked as he plays quite hard in the dirt 99% of the time and the bike looked like it had been dragged behind a truck for a few kms before we sorted it out. Cut cat, the stress on the nipples is not completely lateral as you noted however is still less than the standard factory rim.
 
cut cat Yah Quigly said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Valid point Cut Cat, but, I have been running the Prowheel racing rims on various Ebikes for over 2 years now, and even though the spoke angle isn't optimum, its more than strong enough. Gary (owner of Prowheel Racing components) and I have discussed this in great detail over the phone several times. Gary knows his rims and spokes better than anyone else, he said as long as we are not jumping 60ft triples with 50 hp machines, these rims will hold up just fine with the slightly misaligned angles. His words.

At Emmett, Holmes acquired his Hubmotor specific rims through Gary. I don't know the whole process but Gary's spoke hole machine can't punch at the angle we need for large hub motors. Gary can have his rims custom punched for 230+mm hub motors, but he needs to do in batches of 100 or more. Anyway because of the source for Holmes hobbies rims, I would not be concerned at all about their strength.
 
Having been in the air conditioning contracting, and service business for the last 30 years I've learned the value of using Dielectric paste on high current connections.

From day one I applied it to my battery connections, and the connections between the rear wheel and frame, and I've had good luck so far. What it's supposed to do is prevent oxidation on the terminals, and repel moisture. I slob the stuff on, but not quite up to the arm pits.
 
My beach cruiser bars are still hanging in there. I don't love them, but I don't hate them either. I think they just don't quite match the other things I've done to my bike.

I haven't ordered new bars yet because what Rix said about those red bars has been bugging me. My first impression says red bars wouldn't look good, but I can't help thinking about it now. So today I slapped some red duct tape to them so I could get some idea what red bars might look like on my bike. I have to admit, there is a certain attraction.

 
Tv, I know we all have different tastes, but I am telling you, red bars on your machine will scream total customization and look great.
 
1abv said:
Emmett said:
1abv said:
So what are you guys wearing for shoes and knee protection???

I use Gform for everything but my chest/spine vest. Elbow, knee (I wear the combo shin guard during the winter) and hip/theigh short. They are super thin and have a chemical reaction when you fall so they harden on impact then release. I have fallen twice really hard on my elbow and hip and once on my left knee. You don't feel a thing!
 
Rix said:
Tv, I know we all have different tastes, but I am telling you, red bars on your machine will scream total customization and look great.

We're going to find out soon. I just ordered red bars a little while ago, but not from the Amazon link I posted before.
This bicycle parts store is one of the most kick ass stores around, and they were $5 less than Amazon.
Woohoo 3" rise here I come.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51573&category=484
 
Rix said:
Emmett, Holmes acquired his Hubmotor specific rims through Gary. I don't know the whole process but Gary's spoke hole machine can't punch at the angle we need for large hub motors. Gary can have his rims custom punched for 230+mm hub motors, but he needs to do in batches of 100 or more. Anyway because of the source for Holmes hobbies rims, I would not be concerned at all about their strength.

Hey Rix, you wrote acquired, which suggests in the past. Since you also wrote "I would not be concerned" I assume you meant acquires, and the agreement is in progress and open.

But just to be sure, are you implying that Holmes bought a limited number of ProWheel rims, and I could buy one say next month and it might not be a rebranded ProWheel part? I just checking, since soft or brittle rims would be a substantial waste of my time and money after I get it laced up.

Here is one which is 4lbs http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-17x1.6-Rear-Ebike-Rim.html

This one is 3lbs 1oz. http://www.motobikewheels.com/product/holmes-mmp-17x1-6-ebike-hubmotor-rim-copy/
 
This thread is like having 40 people in one room talking about 6 different subjects at the same time. It really would make a lot of sense if this massive thread has a freeze put on it to prevent more posts. Then a new forum is created.

No need to complicate it. There doesn't need to be 15 different predefined sub topics/threads. Users create topics when they feel like it.

Just one Stealth forum located in Board Index -> Electric Bicycles -> Brand Specific -> Stealth

This thread can be linked to also appear as a thread in this new forum. This thread could one final post with a link. That's it. Done. A few minutes work for a moderator.

Just like any other interest forum site. For example http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/20-exotics/

Right now there could be a thread started by TV which he names "How does my bike look?". abv1 could start a thread named "Bomber setup for mini MX". Allex would have created one named something like "Alternate charger options". Anything of interest to Stealth brand bikes.
 
Allex said:
So take it up with the moderator
Maybe Kingfish
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=52635
I'm too new here to initiate the change. I feel I can make a suggestion to you guys, but that's it.

Looking at the existing forums, a better idea would be for the moderator to create

Board Index -> Electric Bicycles -> Brand Specific -> XXXX

Where XXXX is created for Stealth, Phasor, Raptor, etc.

Then the Electric Bicycles forum category sees just one new entry for "Brand Specific".
See http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=21
 
cut cat said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Further to what QMS said:
Looking at 3 different Bomber wheels, from an old model to a fairly new one, it looks to me that the original wheels have greater misaligned spokes and nipples than a Bomber motor on a Pro Wheel. See for yourself:
Bomber 1.jpg
Bomber 2.jpg
Bomber 3.jpg


Thanks to Rix for his work in testing out lots of rims and tires and coming up with the great combo of a Pro Wheel Generation 3 and the Shinko 241.
If you suffer from pinch flats or broken rims on your Bomber this is an upgrade you will not regret.
 
Villain said:
cut cat said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Further to what QMS said:
Looking at 3 different Bomber wheels, from an old model to a fairly new one, it looks to me that the original wheels have greater misaligned spokes and nipples than a Bomber motor on a Pro Wheel. See for yourself:

Thanks to Rix for his work in testing out lots of rims and tires and coming up with the great combo of a Pro Wheel Generation 3 and the Shinko 241.
If you suffer from pinch flats or broken rims on your Bomber this is an upgrade you will not regret.

It would be nice to see a off the
shelf rim built to suit Our bikes. Im hoping MMP might be the answer?

There has been hardcore atempts get this right see dlogic's video and thread. He does mention that has a 19 inch lace up perfectly and so do SM Pro Platinum.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...&sid=b653f775453f4c263ce5392d2d4296e0#p821808

Point taken on the relevence of poor angles Rix QMS and Villain but when a 10k bike has worse spoke alignment than a kid needing bracess not only it makes the rim look cheap but it is a week spot for rim stress.

Otherwise QMS, the bike looks hot.
 
Emmett said:
Rix said:
Emmett, Holmes acquired his Hubmotor specific rims through Gary. I don't know the whole process but Gary's spoke hole machine can't punch at the angle we need for large hub motors. Gary can have his rims custom punched for 230+mm hub motors, but he needs to do in batches of 100 or more. Anyway because of the source for Holmes hobbies rims, I would not be concerned at all about their strength.

Hey Rix, you wrote acquired, which suggests in the past. Since you also wrote "I would not be concerned" I assume you meant acquires, and the agreement is in progress and open.

But just to be sure, are you implying that Holmes bought a limited number of ProWheel rims, and I could buy one say next month and it might not be a rebranded ProWheel part? I just checking, since soft or brittle rims would be a substantial waste of my time and money after I get it laced up.

Here is one which is 4lbs http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-17x1.6-Rear-Ebike-Rim.html

This one is 3lbs 1oz. http://www.motobikewheels.com/product/holmes-mmp-17x1-6-ebike-hubmotor-rim-copy/

That's what I meant to say, acquired, past tense of acquire, as Holmes currently has them in, but originally acquired them through Prowheel Racing. The reason I say acquired vs purchased or bought was because I don't know the actual circumstance. What I mean by that is, did Holmes by the rims directly from Prowheel, custom sized at 1.6 wide and custom punched angles for hub motors, or did Holmes get the stock base rims through Prowheel's supplier custom punched? The only thing I know is what Gary said, which was Prowheel was involved acquisition of those rims. I normally wouldn't divulge stuff that I am only partially aware of, but I did this time because I wanted to iterate any strength concerns that folks may have about Holmes Hobbies rims, and that I know they are good ones because of where they were sourced. I am sure they are not "rebranded rims", per se. For me to get 17, or 19 x1.6 wide rims from Gary, I would have to order quantity so he could get them. Prowheel racing doesn't offer 17, or 19 MC rims in 1.6 widths, just in 1.4 wide, or the bigger 1.85 and 2.15 widths, the 1.6" width rims are specific for HH. I think the weight references are including the shipping weight, box/package, bubble wrap and rim, stuff like that. I am betting the actual rim weighs in between 2 and 3 pounds tops. That's where my 17x1.4, 18x1.4, and 19x1.4 all weigh on the bathroom scale. Hope this clarifies things.
 
Emmett said:
This thread is like having 40 people in one room talking about 6 different subjects at the same time. It really would make a lot of sense if this massive thread has a freeze put on it to prevent more posts. Then a new forum is created.

No need to complicate it. There doesn't need to be 15 different predefined sub topics/threads. Users create topics when they feel like it.

Just one Stealth forum located in Board Index -> Electric Bicycles -> Brand Specific -> Stealth

This thread can be linked to also appear as a thread in this new forum. This thread could one final post with a link. That's it. Done. A few minutes work for a moderator.

Just like any other interest forum site. For example http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/20-exotics/

Right now there could be a thread started by TV which he names "How does my bike look?". abv1 could start a thread named "Bomber setup for mini MX". Allex would have created one named something like "Alternate charger options". Anything of interest to Stealth brand bikes.

Be patient with this. I am told that there is a new Stealth specific forum in the works by Stealth, and I will be one of the moderators. Not sure of the time frame, as soon as I know, you all will know. :mrgreen:

///Edit///

Just got the word from John K at Stealth about the forum. I cut and pasted his comment below in bold. I volunteered to be one of the moderators, Stealth is looking to select 3 from ES so maybe I will be one. I am assuming we can locate the forum through the Stealth website. I will post a link when its up and going.

Can you let them know that we'll have our test forum up and running by the end of the week. Tell them to give it a go, and give us a few weeks to tweak and modify the platform, and if they don't like it, then they're welcome to build their own. But this will be pretty cool, and categorize things the way that they need them so topics can be easily accessed and referenced for each bike.

Moderators will be 3 that we choose from the ES thread, and we will only step in when it's absolutely necessary. Otherwise we'll stay away from it and let the guys do their thing. No more scrolling through 400 pages of talk
 
Villain said:
cut cat said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Further to what QMS said:
Looking at 3 different Bomber wheels, from an old model to a fairly new one, it looks to me that the original wheels have greater misaligned spokes and nipples than a Bomber motor on a Pro Wheel. See for yourself:
[

Thanks to Rix for his work in testing out lots of rims and tires and coming up with the great combo of a Pro Wheel Generation 3 and the Shinko 241.
If you suffer from pinch flats or broken rims on your Bomber this is an upgrade you will not regret.

Thanks for the compliment, btw, I am still testing tires, its not in my blood to stop. Right now I am running an IRC TR1 and will be trying out the VRM021 in the future, I have already ran the VRM021 on the front, just not the rear. But it looks promising. Even though the IRC TR1 is great, nothing I have tried yet still works as good as the 2.75-19 SR241 over all. The 3.00-17 SR241 is slight better when climbing due to smaller od, and better when descending only the steepest nastiest rock stuff that rideable. But the SR241 2.75-19 is king for doing everything well.
 
About The HH wheel. I just purchased a spoke rim combo from HH. I have not had a chance to install. Originally I talked to Gary at prowheel. He recommended HH over his. I agree with Rick I highly doubt that he would turn away business if the product was inferior. Be aware when you do order w HH you have to be very specific. There are many spoke options to choose from and they do not know length/type for our motors.
 
If a Bomber only went 20 mph I'd probably keep these bars, after getting them powder coated red. I'm like'n the red. They're really comfortable pedaling around on bike trails at ultra low speeds, like 10 mph, but at high speed it's a different story.

 
Off to the side of this bike trail there's a really steep grassy hill down to that little creek. I had to fight the temptation to go sailing down, and back up it.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Off to the side of this bike trail there's a really steep grassy hill down to that little creek. I had to fight the temptation to go sailing down, and back up it.

Next time, don't fight it, ride it. :mrgreen:
 
Rix said:
Villain said:
cut cat said:
IMO, those pro wheels rims are not ideal as the spokes are bending at the nipples because the rim hole angles are desingned fit a smaller hub. Holems MMP rims offer a front and rear version which i assume would have diffrent angles to suit a hubs such as a crystalyte or cromotor or classic front MTB hubs.

Further to what QMS said:
Looking at 3 different Bomber wheels, from an old model to a fairly new one, it looks to me that the original wheels have greater misaligned spokes and nipples than a Bomber motor on a Pro Wheel. See for yourself:
[

Thanks to Rix for his work in testing out lots of rims and tires and coming up with the great combo of a Pro Wheel Generation 3 and the Shinko 241.
If you suffer from pinch flats or broken rims on your Bomber this is an upgrade you will not regret.

Thanks for the compliment, btw, I am still testing tires, its not in my blood to stop. Right now I am running an IRC TR1 and will be trying out the VRM021 in the future, I have already ran the VRM021 on the front, just not the rear. But it looks promising. Even though the IRC TR1 is great, nothing I have tried yet still works as good as the 2.75-19 SR241 over all. The 3.00-17 SR241 is slight better when climbing due to smaller od, and better when descending only the steepest nastiest rock stuff that rideable. But the SR241 2.75-19 is king for doing everything well.
Honestly, the wheel you built for Morati that I now have on my Bomber is tough as nails. Put a 1000 km on it already and no sign of wear even though I regen a lot. I'm still getting used to the 5404 but will be lacing my stock motor on a 19 inch excel.

I'll say it again, I have no idea how anyone rides a stock rear rim without tons of flats and cracked rims. I think I had 19 flats and 3 cracked rims (cracked my third and broke the spokes 2 weeks ago).
 
Proper, I didn't actually build the wheel. I got the spokes and 5404 for Morati, he had the rim already and saved me a fortune on shipping since the dimensions were much smaller without the rim laced up. I am glad you like it as much as you do. Makes me happy that my recommendations are going in positive directions for others. Its easy for me to say, " I ran the MC wheel with XYZ and its great, but its another thing when others are coming to the same conclusions with their own personal findings as I have. Sort of validates my comments about my findings.
 
Proper.. strange I've never had any issues with the stock rim/ tire and all I do is offroad...a decent amount of rocky stuff as well. Maybe you just got an unlucky one. I've changed the rear tube which had HD moto tube, Slime, MR Tuffy which a previous owner put in. I picked up a nail in the tire. I replaced it with another HD tube but did not put the slim or Mr tuffy back in. I don't buy the slime and MR tuffy will do much but add weight and complication. I have only ever had one flat ever with an HD tube on any of my motos, my own fault,I was running 6 psi as a test. I normally run 9-10 psi front, 8-9psi rear and ride really rocky terrain at low and high speed. With a bicycle tire and an HD tube at 25 psi I have no worries about a flat. The only reason im going moto is if I run over another nail I want to be able to ride the bike back to my truck which I've done on my moto. I can't do that with a bicycle tire.

by the way on my bathroom scale the HH 19x1.6 rim weight = 3lbs.
once I swap it I will weigh the stock rim. Rick I know you have done this but im sure our scales are not calibrated exactly the same.

On another note I think im going to cut down the grips to make them shorter which will push the brake levers out closer to the ends of the bars. Im finding that im not taking advantage of the full width of the bars.
 
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