E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Brute]

I believe the 200 watt limit is 200 watts output . Which I believe you can go to something like 350 watts input . Which might make it a bit more bearable using throttle with out pedalic .
Don`t quote me on these figures , hopefully someone a bit more factual will chime in .

 

[boars]

Ah so maybe it is actually legal? It's all new to me so I really have next to no idea what I'm waffling on about.



Speaking of waffling about and having no clue, is there a correct order to disconnect the cables to the rear wheel and reconnect (I assume the reverse)?

 

[Jimboyr6]

Ah so maybe it is actually legal? It's all new to me so I really have next to no idea what I'm waffling on about.



Speaking of waffling about and having no clue, is there a correct order to disconnect the cables to the rear wheel and reconnect (I assume the reverse)?

Nop just undo cables any order

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Ah so maybe it is actually legal? It's all new to me so I really have next to no idea what I'm waffling on about.



Speaking of waffling about and having no clue, is there a correct order to disconnect the cables to the rear wheel and reconnect (I assume the reverse)?

I've read about this issue a lot from Australia, but usually it's on the forum for gas bicycles. Specifically china girl style bikes. I haven't bothered to take the time to find out what the law actually says, but this is what I've read, so take it with a grain of salt.

The 200w limit was recently changed to 250w.
250w applies to both electric, and gas bikes alike
People are riding the gas bikes all over Australia, even though there isn't one on the market that's less than about 1500w
There's no such thing as a gas pedlec.

Some people claim that as long as they're not going too fast, or riding stupid the police leave them alone. Other people get hassled.
I've also seen where people in Australia with 250w eBikes that claimed to have hacked their bikes to be able run 30 mph, and they claim they're not being hassled.

What my intelligence gathering assumes is, the actual laws are so messed up, most cops don't actually know what law applies. You can get away with more than the actual letter of the law as long as you're not doing anything stupid, like running stop signs, or going too fast in the presence of a policemen.

 

[Will4692]

Hey everyone. SB #123 owner here.

I would like to start by saying that, overall, the service provided by Stealth has been far from exemplary. Whilst I appreciate this is not an official stealth forum, I'm just letting you know these frustrations are simply vented generally - not directed at anyone here.

Firstly, the bike arrives with a horrendously-dented side panel, and the rear wheel mounted the wrong way around. It also arrives with a damaged charging port, which we have to bend back into shape using leverage. It takes them over a month to send a replacement side panel, leaving me without a bike for a long time. Thankfully, they do replace the part. I then have a month or so where all sorts of niggles crop up: First, the motor conks out unexpectedly during rides. Then I discover the Torque specifications provided in the manual are completely wrong; the suggested 45 Nm for the wheel nuts is too low, resulting in loosened wheel nuts after short rides. Tightening to 48-Nm eliminates the problem. The Torque values for the front wheel and crank arms vastly exceed manufacturer recommendations; I'm only able to loosen the crank down to manufacturer values by using a huge, hollow iron pole for leverage. It's a wonder it didn't strip the thread, doing the cranks up to 60 Nm.

Various other niggles occurred. Among them, one of the phase connectors 'melted' and seized up, prompting us to buy a soldiering iron and shrink connector to repair. The solder failed on the same connector, prompting the wire to come loose.

I don't know about you guys, but when one pays over 8 grand for a bike they kind of expect more. I recently sent a detailed correspondence to the workshop team at Stealth basically stating that a new concern had developed with the bike; basically, power output is limited. The gist of it is that I've rode the bike just fine with no problems, I put it into storage for a week, took it out, charged it for good measure, and all of a sudden two things happen: 1) The motor/throttle randomly cuts out for brief intervals, typically only when under load, and 2) the power seems to max out at around 3,200W, where before it could peak going uphill at nearly 4,900W! This is a recent development; the bike has been fine until this started happening. The only time the bike performs perfectly is the first ride directly after a BMS reset. Then it runs fine. Put it on charge as normal and the very next ride starts experiencing the power limitation issues all over again.

We did a better job soldiering the loose connector than Stealth did so we do not believe a loose connector to be the culprit. Also, we do not believe the battery to be at fault as it's stored within recommended temperatures, well-looked after, and unplugged + conditionally charged if unused for long periods. I believe I have narrowed down the CA as the culprit, because disabling it returns full power to the bike as normal. For whatever reason, the CA has started throttling the bike's performance. NOTE: the CA settings have remained unchanged since the day Stealth set them up in the factory.

Anyhoo, to get back to the point, I sent this very detailed email to stealth explaining all this about the power cutting out, and what measures I've taken. I even went as far as to tell them what settings the bike came with on the CA. I then told them I'd tried using the CA settings an Endless-Sphere user provided and the problem went away. I finally asked the guy at Stealth if he could provide a list of CA V3 specifications/stealth factory settings; surely they must read these off a big sheet or something at the workshop when setting up new bikes?

All I got is a tiny little reply saying I should return the CA to Stealth's factory settings, and disconnect it if the problem persists. It's as if every time I contact Stealth, 90% of my points are overlooked and I get nothing so much as an apology. By this stage I can scarcely remember the factory settings, because I was foolish enough to not write them down!

Forum user "Remf" provided a list of CA V2.3 settings in an earlier thread, but I'm using a CA V3 so I had different menus to dig around to locate the settings.
(https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=4550)

As far as memory serves me, this is what I changed to remove the problem with the cutting-out motor:

Left Watts limit to 4900. (Stealth default)
Changed Amps limit from 65 to 60. (In Remf's replies, he states that stealth factory-tune their bikes to 60A, yet mine was factory set at 65A.)
Changed PSGain from 1.00 to 0.08. (Again, the value on the left is how the bike came from Stealth)
Changed IntSGain from 50 to 200.
Changed Throttle Output from 0.49-3.99V to: 0.49-4.98V. Changed fault limit to 4.99V.
Changed Vshutdown from 11 to 10.

Under the new settings full power is restored to the bike. Power cut off can still be experienced but only rarely and at full throttle; typically going uphill. This is most likely the Crystalyte Controller cut-off limit. Anyway, the gist of this is that I'm merely a beginner when it comes to the electrical aspects of the bike. Half of these settings mean nothing to me. The only reason I even tweaked them in the first place is because I assumed that if Remf says they are "Stealth defaults for Bomber CA V2.3" then surely they're safe for Bomber CA V3.0?

So to cut to the chase, does anyone here have one of the newer Bombers running CA V3, and is able to look through their setup menu and tell me what defaults their bike has? . A typed out list of defaults, whilst asking a lot of you guys, would be really handy. I'm reluctant to just do what Joe@Stealth says because putting the settings back to how I had them not only brings the stupid power cutoff problem back, but since the bike's been so problematic from the first, I'm not entirely confident it was set up correctly to begin with.

If anyone has any ideas what might be causing the problem please don't hesitate to let me know. Thank you all for reading this big wall of text and have a lovely Christmas!

 

[Allex]

The power cutouts are related to your CA. If the bike consumes 65amps and 4950w
Setting your CA to 64A and 4900W will give you cut outs as a result.
Just set your CA to 70 and 6000w or whatever until cut outs are gone. You can set it to what ever you like - 100amps and 10000w even, so it does not really matter what you set it to as long it is over the controller limit. It all goes down to controller limitation anyway wich is about 65amps and 4900w if the shunt in CA is set correctly.

 

[Will4692]

Thanks Allex, though by your reply it would seem the bike was, from the factory, set up wrong. Stealth provided my bike with the limits I described, until I changed them.

What about the throttle output? Does setting the max to 4.98V effectively override any limitations anyway? Do you think the previous power limitations at 3-3.2kW were due to the throttle output limit?

And surely those cutouts would only occur when the CA records a current beyond those limits? My cut outs (under the factory settings) were not happening anywhere near 4.9kW. as I say, the bike was scarcely exceeding 3.2kW and the cut-outs happened even when the CA displayed a pull of 2kW or less. In general the cut-outs are not happening under load, they can happen at any time even while cruising at mid-load.

These cut outs were happening at a middle-level of draw, and occasionally happened once the bike's already up to speed and momentum has been built; so the CA could read as low as 1 kW and the throttle would still randomly cut out for brief intervals. What's bizarre is these cut-outs introduced far MORE drag to the motor than, say, letting go of the throttle, but LESS drag than regen, but the point remains that these cut outs could kill off a couple miles per hour in less than half a second, which on flat ground is not normal on my extremely low RR tyres.

Another strange note is that the CA limits don't seem to do anything, so it must surely be the controller doing the power cut-offs. For instance with a 4,600W limit and 60A limit If I took the bike full throttle up a 10% grade from a standstill, my CA display still shows a draw of 70A and almost 5kW for a good five or six seconds. Surely if the CA was doing the limiting, it would have cut power before such excession of the limits?

If anyone has a later Bomber with CA v3.0 or higher and is able to tell me how theirs came set up from Stealth that would be awesome, if not to copy then at the very least as a point of reference. I'm still concerned my bike was set up by some rookie at the factory, some guy who did it all wrong. after all it's been trouble since I got it.

 

[Allex]

Older bikes could have 60Amps. The new ones had 65A as a limit.
If you set throttle limit to high this may impact on your performance - you will not get the full throttle.
Try to ride without CA and see how it performs. If it is all good, then it is your CA settings.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Thanks Allex, though by your reply it would seem the bike was, from the factory, set up wrong. Stealth provided my bike with the limits I described, until I changed them.

What about the throttle output? Does setting the max to 4.98V effectively override any limitations anyway? Do you think the previous power limitations at 3-3.2kW were due to the throttle output limit?

And surely those cutouts would only occur when the CA records a current beyond those limits? My cut outs (under the factory settings) were not happening anywhere near 4.9kW. as I say, the bike was scarcely exceeding 3.2kW and the cut-outs happened even when the CA displayed a pull of 2kW or less. In general the cut-outs are not happening under load, they can happen at any time even while cruising at mid-load.

These cut outs were happening at a middle-level of draw, and occasionally happened once the bike's already up to speed and momentum has been built; so the CA could read as low as 1 kW and the throttle would still randomly cut out for brief intervals. What's bizarre is these cut-outs introduced far MORE drag to the motor than, say, letting go of the throttle, but LESS drag than regen, but the point remains that these cut outs could kill off a couple miles per hour in less than half a second, which on flat ground is not normal on my extremely low RR tyres.

Another strange note is that the CA limits don't seem to do anything, so it must surely be the controller doing the power cut-offs. For instance with a 4,600W limit and 60A limit If I took the bike full throttle up a 10% grade from a standstill, my CA display still shows a draw of 70A and almost 5kW for a good five or six seconds. Surely if the CA was doing the limiting, it would have cut power before such excession of the limits?

If anyone has a later Bomber with CA v3.0 or higher and is able to tell me how theirs came set up from Stealth that would be awesome, if not to copy then at the very least as a point of reference. I'm still concerned my bike was set up by some rookie at the factory, some guy who did it all wrong. after all it's been trouble since I got it.

Will469, pm me your email, and I send you the unofficial CA3 user guide.

Your Bomber is a few years old isn't it? Since you've been having all these problems since day one, where have you been all this time?

One thing you didn't mention is the sensor cable. I think a short there can cause problems such as you're being plagued with. The only electrical trouble I've experienced with my bike was after getting that connector wet. It started doing all kinds of weird stuff till it dried out.

 

[Will4692]

Thank you. I have PM'ed you.

The sensor cable (you mean the XLR connector with the 6-pins right?) has indeed been problematic. I had a few early conk-outs due to water damage, but those problems didn't plague me again for years and manifisted in the bike completely failing. Fortunately it conked out in the car park just outside my workplace. I do not believe it is responsible this time around. I have stuck to fair-weather riding where possible, produced extra insulation for the connector, and the recent issues appeared during a dry spell. A BMS reset surely wouldn't restore functionality to normal for a single charge, if the connector were knackered.

In response to the other question, The bike was shipped to me at the start of 2014. It's now one year old. I have not been here before because I have managed to fix the other problems by myself. Whilst I was invited to register here as a bike owner back in January, I never got around to doing so; I confess I find the average discussion here a bit too technical for my understanding. I don't even know how to wire a plug, so registering on a site where people are wiring up their own bicycles and motors was an intimidating prospect at best!

As I haven't been able to get a solid answer from Stealth nor been able to dig anything else up online to help me, I figured I'd take this opportunity to register and ask around; who knew might be able to offer a hand?

Cheers for the help. I'll see if I can't get a photo of the bike up tomorrow!

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

In response to the other question, The bike was shipped to me at the start of 2014. It's now one year old. I have not been here before because I have managed to fix the other problems by myself. Whilst I was invited to register here as a bike owner back in January, I never got around to doing so; I confess I find the average discussion here a bit too technical for my understanding. I don't even know how to wire a plug, so registering on a site where people are wiring up their own bicycles and motors was an intimidating prospect at best!

As I haven't been able to get a solid answer from Stealth nor been able to dig anything else up online to help me, I figured I'd take this opportunity to register and ask around; who knew might be able to offer a hand?

Cheers for the help. I'll see if I can't get a photo of the bike up tomorrow!

Will, I'm curious where you bought your bike from. Probably not the factory I guess, judging by your build number. Just guessing, I would expect SB# 123 to be an early 2010 model. My bike was shipped from the factory in November, 2013, and it's number 412.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Will, since this is such an ongoing problem I think you'd be well advised to start a thread about your bike on the factory forum.

 

[cut cat]

Hey everyone. SB #123 owner here.

1) The motor/throttle randomly cuts out for brief intervals, typically only when under load, and 2) the power seems to max out at around 3,200W, where before it could peak going uphill at nearly 4,900W! This is a recent development; the bike has been fine until this started happening. The only time the bike performs perfectly is the first ride directly after a BMS reset.

Then it runs fine. Put it on charge as normal and the very next ride starts experiencing the power limitation issues all over again.

Will, had the same problem and found it to be the jst connector for the throttle. I took out the battery, foam mat and tape holding the loom down. Dis connected and reconnected the connector then re assembled. Good as gold.

I dont think your settings would be your issue.

 

[Rix]

Hey everyone. SB #123 owner here.

I would like to start by saying that, overall, the service provided by Stealth has been far from exemplary. Whilst I appreciate this is not an official stealth forum, I'm just letting you know these frustrations are simply vented generally - not directed at anyone here.

Firstly, the bike arrives with a horrendously-dented side panel, and the rear wheel mounted the wrong way around. It also arrives with a damaged charging port, which we have to bend back into shape using leverage. It takes them over a month to send a replacement side panel, leaving me without a bike for a long time. Thankfully, they do replace the part. I then have a month or so where all sorts of niggles crop up: First, the motor conks out unexpectedly during rides. Then I discover the Torque specifications provided in the manual are completely wrong; the suggested 45 Nm for the wheel nuts is too low, resulting in loosened wheel nuts after short rides. Tightening to 48-Nm eliminates the problem. The Torque values for the front wheel and crank arms vastly exceed manufacturer recommendations; I'm only able to loosen the crank down to manufacturer values by using a huge, hollow iron pole for leverage. It's a wonder it didn't strip the thread, doing the cranks up to 60 Nm.
Changed Vshutdown from 11 to 10.


If anyone has any ideas what might be causing the problem please don't hesitate to let me know. Thank you all for reading this big wall of text and have a lovely Christmas!

So to cut to the chase, does anyone here have one of the newer Bombers running CA V3, and is able to look through their setup menu and tell me what defaults their bike has? . A typed out list of defaults, whilst asking a lot of you guys, would be really handy. I'm reluctant to just do what Joe@Stealth says because putting the settings back to how I had them not only brings the stupid power cutoff problem back, but since the bike's been so problematic from the first, I'm not entirely confident it was set up correctly to begin with.

Will4692, welcome to the thread. Stealth Bomber #123 huh. Your bike is not new and if you just recently purchased it, whoever you got it from, it wasn't Stealth. I have Bomber #143, ordered in March 2012. Your CA V3 question. The Bombers and Fighters have been running with the DC1 for 9 months or so now. Bomber #123 had CA V2.25, thats the version my Bomber has. If you are the original owner, the only way you purchased your Bomber from Stealth would have been if you ordered back in December 2011 or January 2012. And if thats the case, why wait 3 years to address issues such as how your bike arrived in the shipping crate? With the exception of your frame and swingarm, everything on your machine is way out of warranty by at least 2 years. Your power is cutting because most likely your battery volts have got to be sagging way below LVC with that old of a battery. Probably dropping your DC amps via CA down to 50 will help. Even at 60, you will burst higher amp discharge before the CA reads and cuts power. The Axles nuts come loose with regen without the pinch torque block. I had the same problem you described. This is my solution. If you tighten the left side (Disk brake side) axle nut first, then the right side, and don't use regen braking, your axle will never come loose. For a fee, you can order a pinch torque block which was equiped on the 2013 and newer models. But what I am really curious about is how you came into ownership of Bomber 123? And if you bought the Bomber second hand, the warranty on the frame isn't transferable so Stealth wouldn't be obligated to do anything for you. But don't let that discourage you. There are some really bright people on this thread, and the Stealth Forum and that can help you keep your machine running.

 

[Gromith]

Hi,

@Will4692
Same problem here. During fullthrottle it feels like a short peak of highpower before the CA limits the power. (CA limit 65A)
Low Voltage limit was set to 70V. Changed to 0V, Problem solved. I think its the battery. Time to change (2nd time)

@all
I have a bomber from 2010 (#059) an need a new cycleanalyst. Can i upgrade to the new CA?

I wish you all a Merry Christmas!

Gromith

 

[Will4692]

Yeah, I made a massive mistake, it's 423, not 123. Sorry about that.

I eliminated the problem down to the CA's speed limiting programme. I don't know why, but that's definitely the cause. The documentation provided by Theo was very helpful and clarified the CA functions beyond that of the 'official' documentation... It seems to be working fine for now, so i'll keep using the bike and let's hope the problems stay away for now!

Have a great christmas.

PS: The best upgrade you can make to your Bomber is Saints Brakes

 

[Rix]

Hi,

@Will4692
Same problem here. During fullthrottle it feels like a short peak of highpower before the CA limits the power. (CA limit 65A)
Low Voltage limit was set to 70V. Changed to 0V, Problem solved. I think its the battery. Time to change (2nd time)

@all
I have a bomber from 2010 (#059) an need a new cycleanalyst. Can i upgrade to the new CA?

I wish you all a Merry Christmas!

Gromith

You can upgrade to a CA V3, but it won't fit inside the frame like your current one does. you will need to run it on bar mount or something like that. I caution you having your CA LVC set @ 0, you could easily trip your battery BMS into shut down. Not a big deal to reset, but a process none the less if you are out and about riding. When the batteries start getting old, and mucho voltag sag is a good indicator, I think its better limiting your DC amps and loosing a little bit of accleration instead of setting the LVC at 0 and risking BMS shutdown. Bomber 59, man thats old school. And on your second battery, you are definately riding it a lot. How many miles/kms do you have on that beast. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.

 

[Rix]

Yeah, I made a massive mistake, it's 423, not 123. Sorry about that.

I eliminated the problem down to the CA's speed limiting programme. I don't know why, but that's definitely the cause. The documentation provided by Theo was very helpful and clarified the CA functions beyond that of the 'official' documentation... It seems to be working fine for now, so i'll keep using the bike and let's hope the problems stay away for now!

Have a great christmas.

PS: The best upgrade you can make to your Bomber is Saints Brakes

Glad to hear that Will, for a second, I thought you got scammed by someone who sold you a hammered Bomber and played it off as new. Anyway with the issues you are having, As Theodor Voltaire suggested, I would like you to go to this forum and create a user name and post your problems there as well. http://www.stealthelectricbikes.com/forums/ what ever solutions and answers you get to resolve your issues will be much easier for everyone else to find for future references then searching through 400+ pages. BTW, I don't know if its just a verbiage thing, but when you say "CA" are you referring to the DC1 Computer? ///Edit/// Will, can you snap a pic of your CA/DC1 and post it? Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Yeah, I made a massive mistake, it's 423, not 123. Sorry about that.

I eliminated the problem down to the CA's speed limiting programme. I don't know why, but that's definitely the cause. The documentation provided by Theo was very helpful and clarified the CA functions beyond that of the 'official' documentation... It seems to be working fine for now, so i'll keep using the bike and let's hope the problems stay away for now!

Have a great christmas.

PS: The best upgrade you can make to your Bomber is Saints Brakes

Glad to hear that Will, for a second, I thought you got scammed by someone who sold you a hammered Bomber and played it off as new. Anyway with the issues you are having, As Theodor Voltaire suggested, I would like you to go to this forum and create a user name and post your problems there as well. http://www.stealthelectricbikes.com/forums/ what ever solutions and answers you get to resolve your issues will be much easier for everyone else to find for future references then searching through 400+ pages. BTW, I don't know if its just a verbiage thing, but when you say "CA" are you referring to the DC1 Computer?

Yes, I was just posting the same thing, but Rix beat me to it. We'll all gotten into the habit of posting our questions and problems in this thread, because we're all Stealth owners here, and this is the best we had. This thread has a friendly atmosphere, so it's not intimidating to show your (my) ignorance. There's no reason to ever stop posting in this thread, but you'll be doing a lot more good for all Stealth owners if you post your questions in the factory forum.

 

[Gromith]

You can upgrade to a CA V3, but it won't fit inside the frame like your current one does. you will need to run it on bar mount or something like that. I caution you having your CA LVC set @ 0, you could easily trip your battery BMS into shut down. Not a big deal to reset, but a process none the less if you are out and about riding. When the batteries start getting old, and mucho voltag sag is a good indicator, I think its better limiting your DC amps and loosing a little bit of accleration instead of setting the LVC at 0 and risking BMS shutdown. Bomber 59, man thats old school. And on your second battery, you are definately riding it a lot. How many miles/kms do you have on that beast. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.

Hi Rix,

about 2800 km. Most of them on very hard terrain. The first battery had 70 cycles. (only 350Wh at the end, replaced under obligingness, thanks to John!) The second battery has only 13 cycles and it's from March 2012. (now about 1231.6Wh)

Wanna buy a new bomber, but first I need to get rid of the old! Impossible to sell if you wanna be a serious seller...

 

[Rix]

You can upgrade to a CA V3, but it won't fit inside the frame like your current one does. you will need to run it on bar mount or something like that. I caution you having your CA LVC set @ 0, you could easily trip your battery BMS into shut down. Not a big deal to reset, but a process none the less if you are out and about riding. When the batteries start getting old, and mucho voltag sag is a good indicator, I think its better limiting your DC amps and loosing a little bit of accleration instead of setting the LVC at 0 and risking BMS shutdown. Bomber 59, man thats old school. And on your second battery, you are definately riding it a lot. How many miles/kms do you have on that beast. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.

Hi Rix,

about 2800 km. Most of them on very hard terrain. The first battery had 70 cycles. (only 350Wh at the end, replaced under obligingness, thanks to John!) The second battery has only 13 cycles and it's from March 2012. (now about 1231.6Wh)

Wanna buy a new bomber, but first I need to get rid of the old! Impossible to sell if you wanna be a serious seller...

I figured you for a hardcore offroad type, by your avatar pic. The March 2012 battery you have should be the one in current use. One thing about the Li Ion chemistry is it starts degrading after 3 years regardless of whether it has 13 cylces or 300 charge cycles. And if it doesn't get used much, could degrade even faster. During the winter months, I get my bike out even for just a couple of miles and run it just to charge it. This is better than just letting it sit idle for a few months. My Bomber which dad has now, is still using the original battery April2012, is starting to sag to LVC hot of the charge. But, its still going strong and I think we will get another season out of it. LVC is set at 70 volts and Amps set at 55. The reason I think its working so well for pops is he rides all year around. Just some food for thought if you get a new battery.

 

[Gromith]

Thank you for your valuable tips! It's annoying to buy a new battery. Are the CA and the battery still "state of the art" or can you recommend something else?

 

[Allex]

State of the art heh? You should see my build then, no bragging but it is quite powerful with the latest techs inside(battery/controller/display/charging)

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650

 

[Rix]

Thank you for your valuable tips! It's annoying to buy a new battery. Are the CA and the battery still "state of the art" or can you recommend something else?

Short answer, no. The CA is still the most widely used on board ebike instrument monitoring panel out there, but its dated. Stealth has recognized that its inferior which is why the DC1 was developed. Also, as Alex said, check out his build. Sinwave controllers are the future for ebikes. Alex and several others are running the adaptor Max E with phenomenal results. Jay, aka Hyena of Hyena Electric bikes has transitioned from Infineons to the Sabvotan with some kind of program mods, and his bikes are fast as shit. If was you, when the time the comes to get a new battery, I would really consider Alex's options if you want a MaxE and Hyena's if you want a Sabvoton. I know from personal experience that Hyena can build you a plug-n-ride complete setup that will kick some butt. Looks like Alex can do the same thing. Just what an aging bomber needs

 

[1abv]

Ho Ho Ho...
Post Christmas update...

Santa got me a set of Rissie Racing flat triples for my Marzocchi 888's..WEE HEW!!
I haven't put them on yet but they should raise the forks by at least 1" the stock clamps have a bend in them. These are a nice piece of kit. Much like the stock clamps the bottoms are hollowed out. They weigh next to nothing...

Back when I had my R1's on the bomber I raised the forks as far as I could and this helped turn in, front end feel and front end push. Changed the way the bike felt and made it wayy more nimble, predictable and added grip.

And now the VEE RUBBER VRM021 / holmes hobbies Moto rim / IRC regular tube ...

Went for a quick for a quick 1st ride today.. Impressions.. I have around 30 psi. in it. I put that much in to see of rolling resistance was going to be an issue.. Its not. This tire rolls better than the Duros. I could have easily dropped that down at least 10 psi if not more. I was running my duros at 25 psi. The grip for the most part is pretty much the same. The only big difference is the rear end can slide on command easily. Much easier than the Duros. Makes kicking the tail around and flat tracking so much fun.. I barely noticed any hit in power at all from the weight. Just a hair but its no big deal.

Now for the cons...
I do notice the gyro effect in initial turn in. It's very slight but its there.
The added weight is really noticeable in jumping. Im back to the rear end wanting to kick up all over creation. I have not received my new spring for my shock yet which should improve this. The front suspension and the rear suspension are so out of time with each other it's ridiculous . The clickers on the shock are backed out which makes the bike rideable. If I go in on clickers its like riding a friggin hard tail.....Once I get the spring I will update.

Overall... The Moto rim/ tire combo is worth it.

Finally the MT4 brakes... I bought the bike with them already on. They offer great braking power and really nice progressive feel But....and this is a big BUT.... There is way too much lever travel (yes they are bled correctly) :lol: ... I usually cover the brakes with 2 fingers and 2 on the bars but I can't do this because the levers hit my fingers. Especially noticeable when the pads wear down. So... I will be looking for new brakes sometime in the future.