E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Allex
100 MW
morati whats up? New fighter?
Villain
10 W
The Bomber family has multiplied.
How many Stealth bikes can you get in the one shot? (Excluding factory or dealer photos.)
How many Stealth bikes can you get in the one shot? (Excluding factory or dealer photos.)
Allex
100 MW
Looks like Orange bomber have a seat for a Kiddo and is powered by a Sabvoton? How does it feel?
What controller does the black one have? Does not look stock.
What controller does the black one have? Does not look stock.
Villain
10 W
Allex said:
Yes, the orange one has a Sabvoton controller. Only just installed, it's running very stock amps from the standard battery, so performance is similar to the others. Throttle control is excellent, much more linear. The motor noise is greatly reduced if not eliminated (i.e cannot be heard over the tyres). Flux weakening gives a slightly higher top speed at 87km/h but total battery amps is set to 60, you would need to set it higher than that to raise the speed any more.
Both black ones have standard controllers. The one on the left has a smaller controller than the others. This bike is about 9 months old. I guess they changed to a smaller controller. Not good in my opinion because it runs the same amps as the others and seems to get a bit hotter.
Hyena
10 GW
Wow 5 bombers, what a capitalist! 
Are they all yours ?
You're really missing out on the fun only running that sabby on 60A!
I swapped out one for a guy recently running the 5404 and even on 100A the front wheel frequently lifts on him.
As you said though even at any power lever the smoothness and quietness is great.
As for the controllers, yes Crystalyte changed to a slimmer case around a year or so back. They'd previously used a wider case than necessary (ie as used on all other standard 18 fet infineons) which as you noted DID have better heat dissipation.
Nice snow photo Alex!
Are they all yours ?
You're really missing out on the fun only running that sabby on 60A!
I swapped out one for a guy recently running the 5404 and even on 100A the front wheel frequently lifts on him.
As you said though even at any power lever the smoothness and quietness is great.
As for the controllers, yes Crystalyte changed to a slimmer case around a year or so back. They'd previously used a wider case than necessary (ie as used on all other standard 18 fet infineons) which as you noted DID have better heat dissipation.
Nice snow photo Alex!
morati
10 kW
Allex, yes I sold my Bomber last month and now considering options for next year.....For sure the Fighter is on my list as a possible replacement.
Villain
10 W
Hyena said:Wow 5 bombers, what a capitalist!
Are they all yours ?
You're really missing out on the fun only running that sabby on 60A!
I swapped out one for a guy recently running the 5404 and even on 100A the front wheel frequently lifts on him.
No, they are not all mine.
Was your Sabvoton install on a stealth? What do you think the maximum safe amps would be to take from the standard Bomber battery? Anyone else have experience with this? Allex?
I tried it with the Fighter when I changed controllers. The BMS seems to limit max amps to around 70-80. My battery had about 250 cycles when I tried it, so it could have been the age limiting it as well. Drawing more amps from the stock pack also drastically reduces capacity...especially once you have a high number of cycles.Villain said:
I'm now using my stock Fighter battery daily on my recumbent commuter.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57751#p899059
Now with over 450 cycles, it can still manage 16+AH if I keep the continuous amps draw low at around 15-20 and peak is only ever around 50A.
If I use it on my Fighter at 65+Amps it will start tripping the BMS at around 13AH.
The stock batteries are not state of the art by any means. They are just very safe, and can handle lots of abuse.
If you really want to see some performance swapping out for a new battery should be top of the priority list.
Cheers
Allex
100 MW
For all I know the stock controller pushes the stock cells at 3.7C. So these cells cells should a least manage 5C
They are two 9Ah i parallel so it would be 90A at 5C discharge. The BMS did not trip on me at 100 when I tried it with my replacement cells.
Keep in mind that you will have more cycles if you keep draining the battery slowly. You will probably (wild guess)have 2000 cycles at 10A and 800 at 60A and 500 at 90. But thats just life, you cannot have the cake and eat it. But who buys a Sports car just to drive it around slowly? Not me...
They are two 9Ah i parallel so it would be 90A at 5C discharge. The BMS did not trip on me at 100 when I tried it with my replacement cells.
Keep in mind that you will have more cycles if you keep draining the battery slowly. You will probably (wild guess)have 2000 cycles at 10A and 800 at 60A and 500 at 90. But thats just life, you cannot have the cake and eat it. But who buys a Sports car just to drive it around slowly? Not me...
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Allex said:
That's good to know Allex. After one year, and almost 5000 miles, my battery still seems in pretty good shape. Recently I saw 17.5 ah, and it still had more. Because of riding conditions where I live, I have to take it easy on my battery out of necessity, so it sounds like I'll be able to expect a decent lifespan out of it.
The rational for buying a Bomber isn't just for going fast though. Riding a Bomber at slower speeds not only extends it's life, but you get a lot more range out of a charge too. That's important when you need to ride far, and still be able to make it back home under power. When I ride to some kind of event around town, all my riding buddies bring their eBikes on a car carrier to the event. I'm always the only one that actually rides his bike to the event, rides the event, and then rides home after the event.
splitfire
1 W
Does anyone of you guys running a 100v 24s lipo on their stock crystalyte 72v 50ah MK2 controller? Can a stock Cycle Analyst handle a 100v?. My MK2 bomber is currently running @ 21s lipo 88v goes 80kmh / 50mph and i want to speed up a bit more by just adding lipo packs Is that possible?
Allex
100 MW
CA does not care how many volts you are running, you can have 150V or higher.
You need to open up the controller and see what your caps are rated at, if 100V than you should be ok with 24s.
I see you have the welded seat post, so you have one of the first mk2, later they came with bolted seat post and after that with a slightly changed swingarm and different welding technique(TIG/MIG?)
You need to open up the controller and see what your caps are rated at, if 100V than you should be ok with 24s.
I see you have the welded seat post, so you have one of the first mk2, later they came with bolted seat post and after that with a slightly changed swingarm and different welding technique(TIG/MIG?)
splitfire
1 W
Thanks Allex ....im just not too sure if my CA can read 3digits 100v. I have 18 fet irfb 4110. Dont know if that can handle a 100v. All my big Caps are rated 100v 1000uf. I noticed that my speedometer doesnt read 100kmh...but I dont really care abput that as long as its capable of 100v
Allex
100 MW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5yOnIhn5wY
But don't be surprised if you manage to pop controller. 100v is at the limits of the mosfets and caps.
At 88V you should se about 90km/h. So either you push to low amps(to go 90km/h you need 5000-6000watts of energy) or your battery sags badly.
So if your controller push 50A and your battery under load have...say 82volts(sags down 6 volts) that would only be 4100watts (50x82=4100) at this point you will never se more than 80km/h
So to get more you need more amps(flash the controller) or higher voltage.
But don't be surprised if you manage to pop controller. 100v is at the limits of the mosfets and caps.
At 88V you should se about 90km/h. So either you push to low amps(to go 90km/h you need 5000-6000watts of energy) or your battery sags badly.
So if your controller push 50A and your battery under load have...say 82volts(sags down 6 volts) that would only be 4100watts (50x82=4100) at this point you will never se more than 80km/h
So to get more you need more amps(flash the controller) or higher voltage.
splitfire
1 W
Allex you really are right....I was riding my bomber full charge it goes 80kmh then when I hit 82v it goes 70 to 75kmh. I am only using a 15000mah packs...I might need to add another 5000mah to make 20000mah as I still have enough room to fit it in....I think ill stay with my 88v set up just to be safe.
Allex
100 MW
What you need to do is check you battery sag. Adding extra pack in parallel will stress the batteries less and they will not bog down as much as before. Also check your Amps/wattage. It could be easier to tune your controller to deliver more power rather then going to higher voltage. Set the amps to 65A or more. BUt if you have the stock controller it may not be possible.
splitfire
1 W
So the stock controller is not adjustable?
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
splitfire said:
I think the stock controller is rated at 65 amp, but the factory sets the CA at 60 amp.
On a different note I got the 550 lb spring on and it makes quite a difference. Finally the bike is balanced and I can start using the clickers. For any of you lighter riders I would totally suggest this. Along with the 3 phase revalve it really changed the handling and make it neutral and balanced. Cannon Racecraft was the company I used. Very reasonable pricing turnaround was around 2 weeks. Now that they have a template it will prob be shorter.
More notes on the VRM 21. out here in LA we rarely get rain so when it does come it takes a while to soak in to the clay. After a few days the ground is slick. The VRM and the duro on the front slide out a lot. The VRM actually spins on acceleration in those conditions! In the dry conditions the tire hooks up works great. Either way the tire is very predictable. Im going to try dropping the PSI down to 20 and see how it goes. Currently im running 25 f and r.
And finally the Magura MT series and fixing the tragically long lever travel before engagement. This is a known problem with the Maguras. The pistons stick and duing bleeding the pistons retract which makes the lever travel longer before engagement.
here is a few links which illustrate the problem. Not sure who he is but he owns a bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/65/MT8/
here is the new bleed procedure:
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=5053&st=0
I adjusted this bleed procedure.
1 After fully bleeding the brakes I inserted and closed the top bleed screw while pushing on the plunger for the bottom syringe so no air would be introduced into the system.
2 The transport tool is a touch to thick. You can sand it down allowing the pistons to be a bit closer to each other.
3 Push more fluid into the system via the bottom syringe. This step reduces the lever travel. Make sure there is no pad drag on the rotor. If so loosen the top screw and spread open the pistons a bit. Make sure to not introduce any air into the system.
4 lift the caliper over the height of the lever, remove the syringe and put in the screw.
This will greatly reduce lever travel. Still not 1 finger but better.
More notes on the VRM 21. out here in LA we rarely get rain so when it does come it takes a while to soak in to the clay. After a few days the ground is slick. The VRM and the duro on the front slide out a lot. The VRM actually spins on acceleration in those conditions! In the dry conditions the tire hooks up works great. Either way the tire is very predictable. Im going to try dropping the PSI down to 20 and see how it goes. Currently im running 25 f and r.
And finally the Magura MT series and fixing the tragically long lever travel before engagement. This is a known problem with the Maguras. The pistons stick and duing bleeding the pistons retract which makes the lever travel longer before engagement.
here is a few links which illustrate the problem. Not sure who he is but he owns a bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/65/MT8/
here is the new bleed procedure:
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=5053&st=0
I adjusted this bleed procedure.
1 After fully bleeding the brakes I inserted and closed the top bleed screw while pushing on the plunger for the bottom syringe so no air would be introduced into the system.
2 The transport tool is a touch to thick. You can sand it down allowing the pistons to be a bit closer to each other.
3 Push more fluid into the system via the bottom syringe. This step reduces the lever travel. Make sure there is no pad drag on the rotor. If so loosen the top screw and spread open the pistons a bit. Make sure to not introduce any air into the system.
4 lift the caliper over the height of the lever, remove the syringe and put in the screw.
This will greatly reduce lever travel. Still not 1 finger but better.
boars
100 W
Speaking of shocks... what's the go with all the air shocks these days? Is that the way things will just go? I was looking at alternate mountain bike shocks and most of the new ones I found were all air? 
Mountain bike shocks even up to the task? Someone said the stealth bike was a pitbike shock?
Kind of want a more compact design as I'm worried my seat post (Fox 2013 DOSS) will hit the top of my shock.
The damned thing has a valve that sticks out the bottom and worries me no end.
Mountain bike shocks even up to the task? Someone said the stealth bike was a pitbike shock?
Kind of want a more compact design as I'm worried my seat post (Fox 2013 DOSS) will hit the top of my shock.
The damned thing has a valve that sticks out the bottom and worries me no end.
Allex
100 MW
Theodore Voltaire said:
My old controller is labeled 50A, CA was set to 65 this is because you don't get exactly 50 from the controller, usually a bit more.
Not sure if you can flash the stock controller. To even try this you have to solder on the programming connector. Second alternative would be the shunt mod, you basically fool the controller when you beef up the shunt with some solder. This makes it spit out more amps. Rix can talk more about it.
Athaneco
1 kW
ezza said:
Has anyone noticed the way the bikes have been locked on that pillar. ? Top security.
reminds me of this
Allex
100 MW
Shit, no good to leave 20k this way.
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