E-Trike Project

Just keep in mind regarding the Kelly controllers: That 200A rating is the max amps for one minute (and that's a generous rating based on what folks have seen with Kellys). It's continuous rating is only 80amps. Even though this may be fine for your existing configuration, you may want to consider going with a much higher rated controller in order to have some leeway if you decide to boost your system - as a lot of folks seem to end up doing.... :wink: .
 
Good point michaelplogue...do you have any other brand suggestions other than the Kelly controllers mate?

If nobody has any better suggestions i guess the KD48300,18-60V,300A,Series will be the choice...?

Kim...
 
Oooops~ I've neglected this thread for the past couple of days.

I AM PISSED. B e c a u s e I just got home from dinner at Denny's (a USA chain of regular-eatin' restaurants) and checked this panel, and #@@%U#%

I am reader # 9,003! I wanted to get it at nine thousand even!


Anywho. My belly is full. I don't need the DB. Due to the xmas rush and long lines, I will mail it off to you, Kim, after Xmas, if you can stand the wait?
It's so small and so simple, it will get there in a week or less after mailing...post Xmas. If I mailed it today, I doubt it would get out of the USA before xmas.

Ho ho ho!

(USA slang for Santa Claus, or, in some areas of Miami, How to Hail a Whore)

:mrgreen:

That would be me. I'm vera cheap.
 
I think the Kelly should be fine as long as you don't push it's limits too much. Another alternative is the Alltrax AXE - which have higher amp ratings. It really boils down to how much you are willing to spend. I've always been of a mind that it's better to spend more now, then have to pay a lot more later down the road.

One thing you might want to consider with the hills you have there is regen braking. Should extend your range a bit.
 
I have now ordered a Kelly Controller I really should have bought one of these in the first place and saved myself all the drama not too mention $$$...

I also went to Movement Systems today, its a shop here in Perth, i picked up another
fat boy seat for the trike along with a part from a small pocket bike i think, i have utilized the clamps to hold my barz herez the picz-->

Custom_crusier_17.jpg


Works a treat, holds the bars firm no movement and IMHO lookz better than the old stylin stem, no more worries about the bars being knocked out of line either :)

Back when the new speed controller has landed...

Kim
 
recumpence said:
Kim,

What brand front hub is that again? I want a dual disc setup on another build and you are the only one I have seen with that style hub. :D

Matt


They are from ChoppersUS Matt come in the black
like i have and the chrome...

Kim
 
FrankG said:
Hey Kim,

start budgetting for a much better motor, the wiring and brushes really aren't up to too much abuse, without doing some modifications...

.
HAHA great just what i wanted to hear LOL..the motor thus far :: touch wood :: has been faultless peaking at 4000watts
and not getting close to warm even...Do u have suggestions on a better motor OR mods i can do to the Unite OR now i have bought a brushed compatible controller have you recommendations on a new motor maybe...Etek and RC motorz aside?
 
I recall looking over your motor mods when you posted your e-bike on the forum, nicely done too.

My gearing is definitely close to spot on, i think i will scout about for a smaller front sprocket for the non motor drive side, this will make
climbing walls nearly possible LoL...Only time i have had heat trouble was on the other trike, i had the gearing waaaaay out and the motor got too hot to touch on one occasion, immediately started swapping out sprockets LoL Watts Up meter recorded max 4000watts on the hill climb video and 122amps, motor wasn't hot only slightly warm...luke warm...Your heat issues would be gearing and the weight your moving i think, a motorcycle is alot heavier than bicycle i imagine. I shall have to hookz up a temp probe, I have a few left over from my last PC custom case build, then will have accurate temp measurement to report :) I am impressed with the motor thus far anywayz...and the price is fantastic ...

With regard to your idea of a a "5kw to 7kw brushed DC Perm Mag motor" why brushed? why not brushless? I had initially planed to buy the cyclone 1000wattn brushless setup until Safe put me onto TNC Scooters (thankfully) it saved me hundreds of dollars...

Cheers for the info anywayz Fank if i have an issues with the motor in future i know who to hit up for help now hehehe...
 
I think you should start a Rickshaw service. . . Call it "green'e cab".

My next bike will be a trike as a tribute to your fine machine. . . But dont worry, I will make it suck so that yours appears just that much better :lol:

btw, I have not been keeping up but I did notice a post about a Kelly controller.
I have spent a lot of time researching them.
Let me know if you have any questions that were left unanswered.

-methods
 
Just make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the hub motor up in your trike Methods no need for torque arms :p :p :p

Serious note...Kelly controller i have already bought it is on route, is jumping from "sorting center to sorting center" in China as we speak LoL... I ended up going with the KDS48200E,200A,18V-56V model seeing this is the 3rd speed controller i went a little overboard on the amp rating i guess, last speed controller was meant to be 100amp job and it shit itself :-S

I had a question about connecting it, the 3 metal tabs, the two outer for positive and negative input and the middle tab is connected to motor, now i only assume this would be the positive lead to the motor, do i simply take a negative from the negative input tab to motor?

You also now realize Methods i'll have to dream up some inherently dangerous YET still a tempting 'challenge' for when you getz a trike built hehee...

Kim

EDIT: Was surprised when i checked the tracking on controller, it has now landed in Melbourne and cleared customs :-| I'll have it Monday or Tuesday i should think ;) Ill be MOBIIIILE again woootz....
 
AussieJester said:
I had a question about connecting it, the 3 metal tabs, the two outer for positive and negative input and the middle tab is connected to motor, now i only assume this would be the positive lead to the motor, do i simply take a negative from the negative input tab to motor?

..

Usually the motor positive connects to the battery positive. The negative motor lead would go to the tab.
 
Page 9 confirms what Fechter said

http://www.kellycontroller.com/mot/KellyKDSUserManual.pdf

-methods
 
Cheers fellas, was ass about to what i assumed it would be :-S I will actually have to put the Positive from controller to the negative of the motor and the motor wire from controller to the positive wire of the motor as i require my motor to be running backwards due to its orientatioin on the trike, unless there is a lil " button" on these Kelly controllers that reverses everything loL

I just have to wait patiently for the courier driver to deliver the 'consignment' now :)
 
The KBL brushless models have a reverse button but I don't know how that is going to help you :mrgreen:

Maybe if you are real sneaky you can trick those pesky valance electrons into behaving. :idea:

Does the motor have a fan built into it?

-methods
 
If I come to Australia you going to let me ride that thing?

-methods
 
methods said:
If I come to Australia you going to let me ride that thing?

-methods

Absolutely! :: hunts around for info on how to install switch that half's voltage:: hehehe
 
Half voltage is fine so long as you triple the current.

-methods
 
methods said:
Half voltage is fine so long as you triple the current.

-methods


Bring as many batteries u can fit in your bag and we can hookz them up and takez vid ;-P You would have a place to crash anywayz mate be a cheap trip to OZ ;)
 
Heard you guys got big spiders over there. . .
That true?

btw: I did not think it was possible but I blew up my Kelly Controller.
We will see now about that acclaimed customer service :wink:
Project Mayhem is on hold.

-methods
 
methods said:
Heard you guys got big spiders over there. . .
That true?

Naaaaagh no big spiders here mate, just lil ones...can be
pretty nasty if you get bit by one though hehee... Its the snakes you have to worry about on land Methods, and the sharks and crocs in the water (had a shark take a fella yesterday at Perth beach) stay out of the bush and out of the water and you will be safe as houses Tiz why we spend alot of time in the pub down here in OZ its the safest place LoL :p

methods said:
btw: I did not think it was possible but I blew up my Kelly Controller.
We will see now about that acclaimed customer service :wink:
Project Mayhem is on hold.

-methods

Which model was it you had, i remember seeing it on the build it looked expensive..
 
Courier dropped off my new speed controller today, VERY impressed with delivery time VERY impressed with the packaging job VERY impressed with the new throttle (came with matching opposite grip this wasnt mentioned that i saw on the website anywayz) Not so impressed that it doesn't all just plug in like the cheap rubbish from TNC Scooter LoL..Now i will have to take pics of all the connectors and wires and wait for Methods or Fletcher (or some other electrical guru) to wake up and tellz me how to connect it LoL.. Looking at the lil schematic Methods posted i think i'll manage to sought the throttle out no probs, the other connector though, do i reeeeeally need it? The controller will work with just the power /motor and throttle hooked up wont it? I neglected to buy the lead to plug it into the pc they were asking quadruple what i can buy one for off Ebay, i don't actually NEED to plugz him in to setz him up do i? it will work without playing around with it wont it?

Shall finish watching Top Gear then head out and see if i can get it sorted :-S

Kim
 
Took a pic of the new controller, its a lot smaller than i thought it would be

KELLY_CONTROLLER.jpg


I haven't attempted connecting anything, had a read through the
destruction's Methods linked.

This would be the layout of pins on the connectors

connectors.JPG


Im a little confused as to which wires go where, until now the scooter gear was
all 'plug and play' So... being the Kelly controller expert Mr. Methods hehe...how
I hook the throttle up correctly buddy...(anyonez welcome to chipz in if they can)

Junction 2 Is for the throttle hookup that im up with,

We have TPS (Blue) which they say is a 0.5v input...

Switch Input (white): Close to GND to activate. Default as throttle switch.

and finally...Throttle 5V power source(orange):0-5V throttle power input.

I have a red black and blue wire from the controller :-|

Can someone shed some light on the connecting please fellas...OH...do i need to
hook up a key switch on the other Junction in order for the controller to work?

Appreciate any help ...

Kim
 
AussieJester said:
and finally...Throttle 5V power source(orange):0-5V throttle power input.

I have a red black and blue wire from the controller :-|

Kim

Sure, this will be a snap.

First off lets talk about J1:

Attach your main battery ground to J1-3 with a hard connection to your battery negative
Connect the positive of your battery to one of the main contactor lines
Connect the positive of your battery through a small switch or key switch to the positive contactor coil
Attach the other side of the main contactor to J1-1 PWR
Attach the other side of the main contactor coil to J1-4 COIL DRIVER

Theory of operation: When you turn the key or press the switch power will go from the battery, through the switch, and through the coil of the contactor. This will pull the contactor closed which will connect the main battery power through the contactor to the controller. You now have power.

If you dont have a contactor then forget J1-4.

Attach the battery negative as above
Attach the battery positive through a HIGH POWER switch to J1-1.
By high power I mean a GIANT switch. . . .

Remember that this kelly is not like an xlyte. They leave it up to you to manage the power switching.
48V will not arch that much so you can get away with a switch. 100V on the other hand. . .

Forget J1-6 LED

That addresses all the possible connections to J1


Ok, now to J2:

There are two throttle inputs: One is a switch and one is variable
The switch is used for things like a fork lift when you want to make sure the driver is standing on a plate before power is applied.
You will tie pin 4 straight to ground.
This will be activating the throttle switch
Alternately you can turn it off in software if you have the cable.

Tie J2-6 Ground to J2-4 Switch to activate throttle system
Leave tied, hardwire.

The other throttle input is the variable input, pin 2, TPS.
On your throttle you will have RED, BLACK, BLUE

Tie RED to the J2-1 5V power
Tie BLACK to J2-3 Ground
Tie BLUE to J2-2 TPS Input


Theory of Operation: The 5V signal will travel from J2-1 through the throttle potentiometer and back into the controller at J2-3. This potentiometer creates a voltage divider between 5V and ground which will give you a 0V to 5V signal. This signal comes out of the blue wire and into J2-2 as the variable input.

When the controller is powered it will check to make sure that Throttle Switch J2-4 is tied to ground. You hard wired that so it will be.


Ok.

Do you need me to draw up some schematics or is the prose clear enough?
I am going to shovel some shit today and check back in on this thread tonight
It would be no problem to draw it up, let me know.

Also let me know if your particular system differs from what I have described.

P.S. I have not read the instructions, I only made an educated guess from the pinout.

-methods
 
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