I applyed some wd40 on my ebike's freewheel, wich remove all oil and after some distance the freewheel start to lag and stops me on the road , i got it oiled up later but before that, i got some hard cutting on the road wich cause the sw900 to show me some bad reading like 600km/h ?! And i got back to normal, but after that i replaced the freewheel but to my surprise i still have the vibration the goes hard on low speed, decrease on range and speed and motor heating, after i a while i decided to inspect the issue, i found one of the hall sensor stuck allways at 5volt but i fixed it, to my surprise i still got the problem of vibration and noise and low speed (like 7km/h~10km/h slower) i dont know what to check next, i tested the resistance between phase wires and it shows 0.6 ohms which is normal? I dont know what to do ☹
Ebike DD motor vibration-heat-lost of speed problem
- Thread starter YGpro2003
- Start date
Do you mean the pedal chain freewheel?
What is "hard cutting on the road"?
Where does your system get it's speed data from? Is it a separate wheel speed sensor mounted to yoru frame or fork? Or is it a specific speed sensor built into the motor? Or is it using one of the motor hall sensors?
You'd need a special meter (such as the DE5000, or better) to test the resistance between phases, as they're just wire so it is too low for a typical meter to give a real measurement. But it doesn't tell you much anyway, as it's unlikely to have a phase-to-phase resistance problem in the motor.
But you could measure the *controller's* phase-to-phase resistance, with all power disconnected, to be sure it's FETs aren't damaged. It's unl;iklely, in this situation,though.
however, it's more likley a wrong phase/hall combo issue, and either
the controller just needs to relearn the phhase/hall combination, if it has an autolearn function or wire pair,
or
if there was any wire damage (at the axle usually) then a short between hall and phase allowed high voltage into the hall signal wires and damaged the MCU itself on the controller . No wrie damage and no overheating means that's probably not it either.
Hi, i don't what to answer but to keep it short id like to show you this video : Watch unnamed | Streamable
Also sorry for my bad english
Also sorry for my bad english
Watched the video. Sounds like a hall or phase problem.
You might want to get an ebike hall tester.
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Another workaround is to get a sensorless controller. Those are sluggish to start, but at least they can run a motor like this.
If a sensorless controller doesn't work, it's your motor windings, which might have a short. That's not easy to fix, and if this is your problem, it's better to just buy a new motor.
You might want to get an ebike hall tester.
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Another workaround is to get a sensorless controller. Those are sluggish to start, but at least they can run a motor like this.
If a sensorless controller doesn't work, it's your motor windings, which might have a short. That's not easy to fix, and if this is your problem, it's better to just buy a new motor.
yes, i was having a bad freewheel that was holding me down when i throuttle up, at one time it was stopping me so bad that i got my sw900 shows me some crazy reading like 600km/h~900km/h and then after the reading goes back to normal, I started to have these problems.
I think I found the issue. When I unwrapped my harness cable (it was warpped with hard black tape), I discovered it was in very poor condition, with the wires barely holding together. Now, two Hall signal wires are disconnected, but my bike still runs at 42 km/h (down from the original 47 km/h). How can I fix it?
1. Buy a new harness cable, though it’s hard to find.
2. Repair it myself—I tried soldering, but the spot is difficult to reach.
Any suggestions?
1. Buy a new harness cable, though it’s hard to find.
2. Repair it myself—I tried soldering, but the spot is difficult to reach.
Any suggestions?
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It's not because I ran the motor without a torque arm (I know the cable would twist around itself). The issue happened when I removed the wheel to fix my cheap disc brakes—I laid the motor down on the cable side, and the sharp edge damaged it.
I want to fix it myself, but almost everyone on YouTube just installs a new cable. I think I need to remove the damaged section, solder the wires back together, and reinstall it.
I want to fix it myself, but almost everyone on YouTube just installs a new cable. I think I need to remove the damaged section, solder the wires back together, and reinstall it.
If you have enough cable length between the controller and motor, then it would be easiest to strip of 4 or 5 inches of the cable cover, then open the motor and pull the conductors through the axle, then cut, strip the insulation enough from the conductors to resolder them in place.
I was about to do that, but I found some kind of epoxy glue inside the axle, preventing me from removing the cable. I was able to remove the glue on the outside easily, but it's still stuck inside the axle.
Hmm, the idea was to only remove enough of the cable cover, not the conductors, so the uncovered conductors could be pulled through, since fishing them through the axle can be difficult. Anyway, the epoxy killed that idea anyway.
At this point you’ll need to snip the conductors near the axle/epoxy, making sure you’ll be able to identify which conductors connect to where, when you get the cable pulled through later. You may need a dremel or drill to get the epoxy out to clear up the passage before pulling the conductors into the motor.
Also, don’t forget to put the axle nut on the cable before pulling the wires through, or you might end up doing it twice.
At this point you’ll need to snip the conductors near the axle/epoxy, making sure you’ll be able to identify which conductors connect to where, when you get the cable pulled through later. You may need a dremel or drill to get the epoxy out to clear up the passage before pulling the conductors into the motor.
Also, don’t forget to put the axle nut on the cable before pulling the wires through, or you might end up doing it twice.
Hello again. I've observed that my Hall sensors occasionally output “111” or “000” (with “0” representing 0 volts and “1” representing 5 volts). An AI informed me that the expected sequence should be:
101 → 100 → 110 → 010 → 011 → 001 (repeating).
Additionally, one of my Hall sensors isn’t fully inserted due to issues stemming from a previous faulty sensor. What could be causing this problem?
101 → 100 → 110 → 010 → 011 → 001 (repeating).
Additionally, one of my Hall sensors isn’t fully inserted due to issues stemming from a previous faulty sensor. What could be causing this problem?
