Ebike faulty controller? Wheel jerking

E

Etoboss

10 mW
Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
32
Location
United kingdom
Hi guys, I have a Ebike conversion it’s been working fine for couple months now then suddenly got it out yesterday and the wheel just jerks doesn’t spin like it’s trying to but won’t. I checked all connections there all fine. When I unplug this see pic and then try the throttle the wheel spins backwards nicely. Plug it back in and just jerks forward. I did a vid that makes more sense but don’t no how to upload?
 

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That looks like your hall sensor plug, although I can’t see it too clearly. Does it have red, black, yellow, blue, green and white wires?

If so then pulling it out has disabled the hall sensors. And you must have a dual mode controller if the motor spins backwards when that connector is not plugged in.

Can you post a photo showing the label on your controller to confirm that it is a dual mode controller?

If that is the hall sensor plug that you have disconnected then you may have one or more blown hall sensors, so it would be a good idea to carry out a hall sensor test to confirm this.

Instructions for testing the hall sensors are in the link below.




You can run the motor in sensorless mode if it is a dual mode controller, but it will run smoother and quieter in sensored mode. You will of course need to get the motor to run forwards instead of backwards.
 
Last edited:
AGS said:
That looks like your hall sensor plug, although I can’t see it too clearly. Does it have red, black, yellow, blue, green and white wires?

If so then pulling it out has disabled the hall sensors. And you must have a dual mode controller if the motor spins backwards when that connector is not plugged in.

Can you post a photo showing the label on your controller to confirm that it is a dual mode controller?

If that is the hall sensor plug that you have disconnected then you may have one or more blown hall sensors, so it would be a good idea to carry out a hall sensor test to confirm this.

Instructions for testing the hall sensors are in the link below.


Click to expand...
Hi mate. Yes it’s a dual Controller. And yes it’s hall sensor plug I disconnecte
AGS said:
That looks like your hall sensor plug, although I can’t see it too clearly. Does it have red, black, yellow, blue, green and white wires?

If so then pulling it out has disabled the hall sensors. And you must have a dual mode controller if the motor spins backwards when that connector is not plugged in.

Can you post a photo showing the label on your controller to confirm that it is a dual mode controller?

If that is the hall sensor plug that you have disconnected then you may have one or more blown hall sensors, so it would be a good idea to carry out a hall sensor test to confirm this.

Instructions for testing the hall sensors are in the link below.




You can run the motor in sensorless mode if it is a dual mode controller, but it will run smoother and quieter in sensored mode.
Click to expand...
hi mate, yes it’s a dual controller. And that was the hall sensor plug. It’s my sons bike and he told me he was doing a lot of hill climbing yesterday on it making me think something burnt out but it was fine when he put it away was just this morning it didn’t work
 
I have just ordered a new controller as assumed it’s faulty. But seen online something about swapping the phase wires around?
 
If you swap two phases around then it should run forwards in sensorless mode. But you will need to swap the phases back again to run in sensored mode.

There could be nothing wrong with your controller. The hall sensors are inside the motor, but you will need to to the test that I linked to in my previous post to confirm this.

My guess is that he overheated the motor and blew one or more hall sensors.

It may be worth opening the motor to see if he also managed to cook the windings as well. Although they may be ok if it still works sensorless.
 
It was probably still working ok when he put the bike away, but heat soak would have kicked in when he turned it off and that could have overheated the hall sensors.
 
Ye that bet he has 😩 especially all the uphill stuff he was doing something definitely burnt out. Can hall sensors be replaced or is it a full new motor job
 
On most motors they can easily be replaced and are cheap.

Some motors can be opened easily by removing the cassette and undoing the Allen screws and others need special tools.

There are different types of hall sensors so hopefully yours will have a code on them so you can order the correct ones.

Here is an example of how to replace them, but you must test them first.


There are also plenty of YouTube videos on how to do this. Some are better than others.

Your son can still ride the bike in sensorless mode, but should cut down on heavy hill climbing to keep the motor cooler.
 
Etoboss said:
Ye that bet he has 😩 especially all the uphill stuff he was doing something definitely burnt out. Can hall sensors be replaced or is it a full new motor job
Click to expand...
When running sensorless, sometime you need to start the motor spinning in the right direction before applying power. Leave the hall sensor plug disconnected, and try the bike on flat ground, pushing off first before applying power. If it works, he can at least ride it until you replace the halls.
 
Thanks for info. Going to have a play about with it tomz just spent £70 on new controller as well :(

Where u guys buy your parts from in uk
 
I buy most of my stuff directly from China, but get some from Ebike Solutions and Torquetech if I’m in a hurry and don’t want to wait two to three weeks for speedpak economy.

I happened to buy some hall sensors from e-bike solutions recently. I bought a pack of 8 bipolar sensors, but one of them turned out to be a unipolar that must have got mixed up in the batch.

ebikesolution.co.uk

Ebike Solution

Welcome to Ebike Solution, your number one source of ebike accessories spare & parts. We're dedicated to provide the very best of our products and services.
ebikesolution.co.uk ebikesolution.co.uk

thelayerlaboratory.co.uk

TorqueTech

The Layer Laboratory : A dynamic additive manufacturing enterprise. Providing practical solutions to real problems with unique & innovative products. UK stock. Free UK Delivery. Fast dispatch. Great service. Unbeatable support.
thelayerlaboratory.co.uk thelayerlaboratory.co.uk

They are both reasonably priced and good quality, but they have to put a mark up on the products, so they can’t compete with prices direct from Chinese suppliers.
 
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Thanks mate. Ebike solutions is who I have been using.

Just another question. My son only just told me this! after like 30mins riding he said it would suddenly just drop all its power like rolling speed so he has to turn battery off for 5mins then turn back on to get going again. Then does this on and off for the rest of the day. Even though his battery life would be 60%

It’s been like this since it was new! His battery is a lg 52v 20amp.
 
There are other reasons for the motor to cut out other than overheating.

The battery voltage could be sagging below the low voltage cut off of the controller.

So switching off and waiting for a few minutes will let the battery voltage recover and all is fine until it sags again.

He only has a 20 amp battery, so if the controller is asking for more current then the battery can deliver the voltage will sag quickly.

Do you know the specifications for the controller?
 
Last edited:
AGS said:
There are other reasons for the motor to cut out other than overheating.

The battery voltage could be sagging below the low voltage cut off of the controller.

So switching off and waiting for a few minutes will let the battery voltage recover and all is fine until it sags again.

He only has a 20 amp battery, so if the controller is asking for more current then the battery can deliver the voltage will sag quickly.

Do you know the specifications for the controller?
Click to expand...
Oh! It’s a 45amp controller mate. But only 20amp battery 😩 bet that’s the problem ?
 
Or you need a 40 amp battery for a 40 amp controller and that will be cutting it fine.

You may have the option of turning down the maximum current of the controller by configuring the display.

He won’t be pleased with that because it will reduce his acceleration.
 
Bloody hell lol. All these kids have the same conversions will check what amp controllers on there’s. Or may just buy a 40amp battery problem solved then
 
52 volts x 45 amps = 2300 watts

That is a lot of power. It absolutely sucks current out of the battery and will get the battery and motor hot very quickly.

The battery won’t be happy trying to deliver twice as much current than it is capable of.

Ideally you should have a battery with 30% higher maximum current rating than you use as a safety margin for battery life. But it would be unrealistic to fit a 60 amp battery on an ordinary bike. It will be huge, heavy and expensive.
 
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I just messaged the guy who I bought the complete kit off and all his 52v 2000w kits come with the same 45amp controller. And none have had the sagging problem as he had no complaints. My head is burnt lol
 
Just checked his mates and he has 40amp and works fine. Looked online all these 2000w kits come with either a 40 or 45amp controller so I don’t think it’s that. Makes me think battery is faulty from new or controller faulty from new
 
Did your your battery come with the kit or did you buy it seperately?

It is unlikely to be a faulty controller if it runs the motor ok in unsensored mode. They tend to either work or don’t. And when they don’t work it’s usually dueto blown up mosfets. And that is usually caused by a motor fault.
 
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