sketchism
100 W
you shouldn't need to pad it at all they should pull tight around your hub
do you have a photo?
do you have a photo?
Ebike Hub Motor overheating cooling solution - HUBSINK OFFICIAL THREAD
- Thread starter sketchism
- Start date
sn0wchyld
100 kW
hey sketch, is this you on ebay, or at least one of your resellers?
https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/customcarbide?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
just rather give my money to the actual creator rather than some copycat.
also would be interested in a 'shorter' version of the hubsinks with shorter fins. understandably would reduce the effectiveness but would be good to have an option for a more subtle look.
https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/customcarbide?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
just rather give my money to the actual creator rather than some copycat.
also would be interested in a 'shorter' version of the hubsinks with shorter fins. understandably would reduce the effectiveness but would be good to have an option for a more subtle look.
sketchism
100 W
Hey mate yep that's my tooling company i have them up there as well as http://www.hubsink.com - ebay does take a bigger fee but it seems sometimes people find it there before the website
the only way to do that would be to go around with a coping saw and trim them down, i have done it once before to fit them in a custom build its achievable in an afternoon
the only way to do that would be to go around with a coping saw and trim them down, i have done it once before to fit them in a custom build its achievable in an afternoon
sn0wchyld said:
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
just thought id post this for anyone who is super dedicated to keping their hub cool 
i carefully buffed the paint of my qs 205 before adding the hubsinks. i noticed when i did so that the qs paint was actually really thick! after i removed the paint i polished it with fine sandpaper, going down through the grades until i could see my face.
i then did the same thing to the undersides of the hubsinks, removing the aluminium oxide anodising, till i had mirror aluminium surface.
of course,i have nothing to compare it to but im sure it makes a huge difference.
the sinks have worked a treat! i love watching the temps dropping by the second when i ease off the throttle or stop. before i installed them, it was like 30 times slower to cool off.
i carefully buffed the paint of my qs 205 before adding the hubsinks. i noticed when i did so that the qs paint was actually really thick! after i removed the paint i polished it with fine sandpaper, going down through the grades until i could see my face.
i then did the same thing to the undersides of the hubsinks, removing the aluminium oxide anodising, till i had mirror aluminium surface.
of course,i have nothing to compare it to but im sure it makes a huge difference.
the sinks have worked a treat! i love watching the temps dropping by the second when i ease off the throttle or stop. before i installed them, it was like 30 times slower to cool off.
Attachments
SlowCo
1 MW
ridethelightning said:just thought id post this for anyone who is super dedicated to keping their hub cool
Is there ferrofluid in your hub motor?
FWIW, unless you use an antioxidizing compound (some type of heatsink compound, for instance) on those surfaces, they're going to reoxidize fairly quickly. (also, the surfaces are almost never completely flat to each other, so the airgaps between them won't conduct heat nearly as well as the heatsink compounds will--even the basic plain old titanium oxide white paste is better than air.ridethelightning said:
).
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
SlowCo said:ridethelightning said:just thought id post this for anyone who is super dedicated to keping their hub cool
Is there ferrofluid in your hub motor?
yes, ~10ml
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
I used white or grey heat sink compound in a syringe.amberwolf said:FWIW, unless you use an antioxidizing compound (some type of heatsink compound, for instance) on those surfaces, they're going to reoxidize fairly quickly. (also, the surfaces are almost never completely flat to each other, so the airgaps between them won't conduct heat nearly as well as the heatsink compounds will--even the basic plain old titanium oxide white paste is better than air.ridethelightning said:
i spread it thin and evenly,(made sure no grit in it :wink: ) clamped the sinks on and watched any excess slowly oose out the sides.
then i wiped off the excess and gave it a touch up spray with black,carefully around the edges, where the shiny steel was showing slightly. i avoided getting any paint on the sinks themselves much.
sketchism
100 W
haha absolutely awesome, i did similar but not as thorough to mine, and it was crazy how thick that paint was, almost a fill mm or more i would say, they really lay it on there!
if you are chasing ultimate thermal coupling this would certainly give you one less thing between the hub and the sink!
if you are chasing ultimate thermal coupling this would certainly give you one less thing between the hub and the sink!
ridethelightning said:just thought id post this for anyone who is super dedicated to keping their hub cool
i carefully buffed the paint of my qs 205 before adding the hubsinks.
the sinks have worked a treat! i love watching the temps dropping by the second when i ease off the throttle or stop. before i installed them, it was like 30 times slower to cool off.
999zip999
100 TW
Is there puff in testing ? Results.
whereswally606
100 kW
I really like the brake boss position alas not possible on my full suspension rear triangle but I love how tucked out of the way that is. what frame is this. Sorry for the OT.
pwd
10 kW
I want to move my Hubsink set over to a new motor. Is it necessary to remove the thermal grease from the hubsinks before attaching to the new motor? I have also ordered a few tubes of this to re-apply if necessary.
Thanks!
Thanks!
osa57
10 mW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2013
- Messages
- 24
Hi,
I have a Falco hub motor, with internal width between flanges of 13mm (see picture)
Would this be enough to install the HubSink?
Thanks!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1azY5SJ-YN4XkUpxtfP8uZTTktL1Kzrqa/view?usp=sharing
I have a Falco hub motor, with internal width between flanges of 13mm (see picture)
Would this be enough to install the HubSink?
Thanks!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1azY5SJ-YN4XkUpxtfP8uZTTktL1Kzrqa/view?usp=sharing
silence
10 W
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48753&start=1302hias9 said:
sn0wchyld
100 kW
hias9 said:Thanks. They also mention that 2 15mm rings would be more efficient than a single 30mm ring.
On all pictures with dual rings, the fins were lined up in a straight line.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to line them up like this or would that be worse?
By this point I think you'd be splitting hairs as to which is best - however I suspect staggered would be slightly better - slightly more surface area, and should create slightly more turbulent air. But i think you'd struggle to tell the difference even in laboratory conditions, and you'd probably get greater variance just by applying too much/too little thermal paste...
sn0wchyld
100 kW
hias9 said:
Same story, ( you'll see no notable difference) but im less sure of it.... the paint is wafer thin, so even if it was a good insulator (its probably not) it wouldn't be thick enough to have a big impact. Given its probably an ok thermal conductor, then the difference wouldn't' be worth the trouble IMHO, particularly put next to getting rust on your motor, and potential (but unlikely even if riding through salty water) galvanic corrosion issues.
rockstar195
100 W
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Messages
- 166
Has anybody have luck running the hub sinks ONLY, with NO FF or Statorade?
sn0wchyld
100 kW
rockstar195 said:
difference will be marginal at best - the biggest issue is the air gap between the heat source (stator windings) and the 'cool' motor casing. You can easily get your windings/stator over 150C while your outer casing is still barely above ambient, as air is a pretty good insulator. Ebikes.ca did some pretty comprehensive testing, and the ranking of effectiveness goes:
Statoraid + hubsinks
Statoraid
and a long way behind
Hubsinks
unmodified hub.
Basically there's no point in improving the heat dissipation of a heat sink (the outer shell with our without hubsinks) that isn't thermally coupled to the source of heat (your stator). That coupling is the job of the statoraid, or other alternatives people have tried by filling motors with oil etc.
sketchism
100 W
Ive had a few enquiries for one-off versions of the hubsinks for non standard motors and now i have my CNC back up and running ill do a small-run of billet Hubsinks
the main enquiry i have is for the QS273, but i have been given 4 or 5 different curcumfrences of the magnet ring, i would be hesitant to send them out without testing them on a motor first
if anyone with a QS 273 is interested in a BETA set of hubsinks for it, measure the magnet ring as accurately as possible (with a few different methods to avoid a tehnique error perhaps) and let me know and i'll design and CNC a few sets up for testing
the main enquiry i have is for the QS273, but i have been given 4 or 5 different curcumfrences of the magnet ring, i would be hesitant to send them out without testing them on a motor first
if anyone with a QS 273 is interested in a BETA set of hubsinks for it, measure the magnet ring as accurately as possible (with a few different methods to avoid a tehnique error perhaps) and let me know and i'll design and CNC a few sets up for testing
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