Ebikekit.com 36v sla review

auraslip

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Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
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I purchased an ebikekit.com conversion kit from user drasp in the "used section". It was $250. Despite waiting a week for him to ship it and some hiccups installing, I am now rather pleased with the deal.

Pleased is an understatement. I don't want to gush, but the first time I deactivated the European speed suppressor I had a wind in my face at 23mph grin until the batteries were dead. I am right now thinking up an excuse to go for a ride around my neighbor hood.


The kit is $380+shipping from ebikekit.com. Their kit comes with a universal tourqe arm $25, better instructions, support, warranty, and a most importantly an ebikekit t-shirt :)

I went with $100 (shipped) worth of slas from portable power systems. The ebike kit charger was $40, and the wiring harness was $15.

Total cost: $400

That's a hell of a deal!

Now the bad:

The brake levers feels, and are cheap. It is a wuxing brand that almost every kit comes with. The lever is metal, but the housing is some sort of plastic. They work like wal-mart bike brakes; that is to say I'm not trusting my life with them. My entry level avid brake levers ($20) make them look like cheap toys.

The connectors on the wires have been slipping out of the back of the connectors. Twice now the three pronged connector on the controller has managed to find a to come undone and spark. Saving 3 cents at the risk of burning out a $80 controller is unacceptable. Keep in mind that I have the version of their kit they're no longer selling, so hopefully they come with better connectors now.

I spent $40 for a charger from ebikekit.com because I assumed it was a better product then the $20 ebay chargers. When I, of no fault but my own, mis-read the wiring instructions and reversed the polarity on the charger, I learned that it didn't have reverse polarity protection. I was really bummed because I was out $40, but forum user dnum sent me another. He is a true hero :D

The wheel was out of true. I blaming this one on the seller, but I only payed $250 so I can't complain =)

The nipples on the wheels barely fit into my park tool spoke wrench. It's a pain to true them.

If it wasn't for the endorphins flowing through my pleasure center after a 30 minute bike ride, I am positive my hand would be in pain from the thumb throttle. Someone needs to come up with a better design.

The good:

The hub motor is comparable to the higher end models other companies sell. It can handle a lot more power than it's advertised 500w.

The controller is very upgradeable and overvoltable. People have reported running it at 48v with no problems. Others have done minor mods to run it at 72v! You can add (if you are comfortable with a soldering iron) many features like a usb port, a cycle analyst port, cruise control, and regen braking.

Verdict: The hub motor and controller have been shown over and over to be abusable, upgradeable, and generally bullet proof. Even with the cheap components this kit is a steal at $380.
 
I don't want to scare you away with the high prices of good batteries but if you can afford it don't buy sealed lead acid batteries. The lifepo4 batteries I wanted would double or triple my range, reduce my weight by a 1/3rd, and last 10 times as long. They were $600, so I went with the cheap option. 30lbs of SLA is challenging though. To ride at slow speeds, to mount, to carry it up the four steps to my front door.

Some quick sloppy stats:

Top no pedal speed with 36v14ah sla: 23mph
No pedal full throttle range: ~8 miles
Pedal enough to almost break a sweat and range increases: ~12 miles.
Pedal enough to almost break a sweat and use %60 throttle: ~18 miles.
(The ranges are estimates. I will do extensive testing once it stops raining. )

I don't let this get me down because I know I'm upgrading to 48v sla soon, and 60v lifepo4 in the future. I should be able to get the speed up to ~30mph, and my range around ~40 miles.

Now about my bike:

OyMKpl.jpg


90's chromoly steel specialized hardrock.
I had to file the drop outs for the hub motor to fit. I had to file the torque arms for them to screw into fender mounting screw holes.
The batteries live in a topeak mtx bag that I absolutely am in love with.
The controller is hiding under the rack. Hopefully it will be protected from the elements while zip tied between the rack and fender.
For it to fit I had to make this little ace hardware contraption:
HEIC1.jpg

It's tight!
3OjKDl.jpg


I got these new tires to handle the extra weight. They are called CST cyclops. I think a better name would be "road king" because that's what I feel like on them.

nd6xNl.jpg
 
Nice eh? I've really been happy with my ebikekit motor too. Really does perform better on a hill than a clyte 408 or an aotema.

But if speed is your craving and the hills aren't much over 5%, you can't beat the aotema kit. I'm getting a solid 31 mph no pedaling with a 48v pingbattery on mine. The ebikekit on the same battery goes a solid 27 mph. About 4 mph faster for a similar price motor for the aotema. It's a great way for the economy guy to go fast.
 
Nice clean build! Think you are grinning now...wait till you get the new batteries!

Moo
 
Cool dogman. Whats the source of aotema hubs now days?

Also what do you think of my job with the torque arms? I filed them down so I could screw a bolt into fender eylets. Do you think that will be enough?
 
with it bolted to the eyelet it would have to tear the fork off the bicycle to come off. good job. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
The connectors on the wires have been slipping out of the back of the connectors. Twice now the three pronged connector on the controller has managed to find a to come undone and spark. Saving 3 cents at the risk of burning out a $80 controller is unacceptable. Keep in mind that I have the version of their kit they're no longer selling, so hopefully they come with better connectors now.
I just installed an ebike kit and I nixed all the connectors

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16129&p=241135&hilit=prima#p241135
 
That is a professional looking build!

I especially like the inclusion of the light.

I plan on replacing the connectors, but don't know what type to use. I'll probably go with xlrs for the power cables.
 
I usually solder or crimp all connections. Cheaper, faster, more reliable. the only problem is if your parts supplier voids warranty because you changed or removed the plugs.
 
Bolted to the eylet is actually what that particular design of tourqe arm is made for. You only use the rest of it if you have no eyelet.

The Aotemas can be found at High Tech Bikes, HTB Terry on ES.
 
Just thought I should do a range update.

I've been consistently getting 15-20 miles with full throttle and moderate pedaling. This is on texas prairie terrain. Nice and flat, but sometimes windy.

Cruising speed is 22mph fresh off the charger, but drops down to about 20 mph after the first mile.

I just modded the shunt to allow for more amps, and it really increased low in toque. The top speed is not affected, but I imagine battery life is.

I also activated the regen brakes which works.

It has three levels of braking based on speed. +10 mph is a quick brake. +5-10 mph moderate. +3-5 mph is very light. Below 3 mph it turns off. I find myself pedaling into red lights with the brake on trying to recharge the battery.

Sometimes I wish the braking was lighter, and sometimes I wish it worked harder. All the time I wish it was analog.



Soon another 12v battery will come in the mail, and I'm hoping for at least a 5mph speed boost and hopefully a range boost.
 
How did you enable regen brakes? I have the same controller from ebike kits.
 
Hello,

Glad you are enjoying your 9C hub kit (used even)... I noted a few bits and pieces and figured I would add my .02c

First - as everyone (including yourself) has said, ditch the SLA.. you would go farther with a 10 or 12S lipo 5AH pack (really you would)... In comparison to a 600 lifepo4 battery... lets assume you built a 20AH LiPo pack...

8 x 6S 5000 mah 20/30C Turnigy Lipo @ 50.00 each = $400.00

This pack would be capable of supplying 400A continuous and 600A for 15 seconds (the beauty of Lipo) and so going to 30 or 40A primary current isn't much at all (maximum load 2C against a 20AH pack)...

Another advantage - less weight, at .3 lbs per cell that 48 cells (I think) for a total pack weight of 14.4 lbs

You can use a hobby charger like an iCharger 106B+ and simply break your packs into 6S4p sub sections which you join into 6S8P for charging purposes and use a single Meanwell S-350-24 tuned to the proper voltage (6 * 4.16v = 24.96v)... at this voltage and configuration you will be charging a 6S 40AH pack... the meanwell would acheive a charge rate between 14A and 16.8A (depending on how you set it up)... and you can parallel 2 or 3 configured for the same voltage together to double or triple the current.

Just a single meanwell (32.99 + s&h) would charge your pack of 6S8P 40AH in about 3 hours... you could also charge the pack at 12S and 4.16v per cell with a pair of meanwell 24s set to 1/2 the voltage... then your pushing about 14A into a 20AH pack for 1.5 hr charging..

Do some research before buying a power system.... you may be plesantly surprised!


Second - the FH205 9x7 is actually a bit slow the loaded kV (RPM per volt input) is about 7.56 RPM per volt, if you went with a rear hub the RH205, it's loaded kV is 10.10 per volt... so @ 10S LiPo fully charged you would see 42v or 424.2 RPM on that 26" specialized it would work out to a maximimum possible top end of about 32.85 mph - there is a catch, you will need to add a programming port to the infineon (simple) and up the current from 22/25A to about 32A Primary Current and 70A phase current, if you don't the maximum you will reach is about 27 or 26 mph.... The good thing about your HR is that it's steel and you can cold set the rear to make clearance for a 6sp or 7sp freewheel, your clusters smalllest is 11t and you can get an equiv freewheel and have the best of all worlds!

I run a very simliar setup on a 2003 HRPD - I too have the FH205 and even when I push the voltage into the 75v realm (18s hot and yes the stock controller will handle up to 18S hot) without bumping the current (more primary current) I never reach the potential top speed.


Hope this helps!

-Mike
 
auraslip said:
Sometimes I wish the braking was lighter, and sometimes I wish it worked harder. All the time I wish it was analog.
For a possible solution to making them analog instead of on/off, check here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17584&start=0&hilit=throttle+linear
I've yet to test this on my Fusin controller, but it might work.


Ypedal said:
with more voltage, you will go faster, but you will usually not go further. :wink:
Depends on how able you are to control yourself with the throttle usage, since a higher voltage of the same Ah has a higher Wh too. :)
 
So you have regen brakeing enabled?

Give this a shot... pull the brake lever and then twist up the throttle slowly while holding the brake lever slightly (to engage regen)... it may work as you desire in a more analog fashion.

-Mike
 
My Ebike kit is running at 48v, lead acid and has this written on a paper sticker on the hub:
FH205
36v 26t

I assume it is relatively conservative winding because it has little power above 18mph or so. It is actually a perfect match for the Prima frame geometry and components which are beach cruiser like.

I'll be installing a Lifepo4 batt next week. 48v 10 ah. I'll post some results later next week.
I have not found the thread on european speed limiter and shunt modification.
 
- mr. electric

Enabling regen is very simple. Open the controler and dab a drop of solder between BK and GRD.
I believe Knuckle's original thread is in the reference section.


- mwkeefer

I would be the first to buy a lipo pack if there was a plug and play BMS system. I know I would burn my, or one of my friends, houses down doing something wrong :eek:


Amberwolf -

That is a really good idea. I'd like to see that come to fruitation.

I don't know but the brake and throttle at the same time doesn't seem to have an effect on the braking level. Maybe my run of controllers doesn't have that feature?
 
extremegreen is selling lipos with bms and charger. I think it is $800 for 48v 10 ah w/ 2 amp charger.
I looked at one. It is one tidy brick with a charge plug (two wires) and a discharge plug.
I will check out knuckles thread on the ebikekit. I may have missed it due to name changes- I did not realize 9c was the ebikekit motor. Is the controller called fusin?
 
Thanks for the tip. I will switch to using google to search the forum.
I'm still waiting to install my lifepo4 into my ebikekit (9c) bike.
 
Fusin is the motor kit sold by world wide electric bike. So there is a "fusin" controller in that kit. It comes with a three speed switch that varies both speed and apparently tourqe. It's kinda odd, you'd think it would simply limit amps, but it doesn't. All the amps are still there, but top speed gets limited. This is quite different from the amp limit jumpers on some controllers. The fusin does have regen, you simply plug in a jumper and bingo, regen.

The ebikekit comes with an infineon controller I think. 36v 22 amp.
 


If you are gonna do this, make sure you use THICK HIGH QUALITY brackets.

Mine bent and caused the rack and controller box to press down on the fender which started to rub on the tire.


q85Qyl.jpg

This time I bought a steel strap/bar and cut and drilled it. Notice I used four on each side =)
 
no ones posted hee for a while, just wanted to ask what top speeds where you guys getting with this kit no pedalling? im only getting about 18-19 mph on full throttle using ebikekit's lifepo4 and this was reviewed using heavier SLA so somethings not right here it seems, 23mph would really do my day
 
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