ELECTRIC TRANSMISSION DELTA /WYE and SERIE/PAPALLEL stator

FORGOT TO MENTION

for those who think that those speeds are a bit slow - those speeds were in a 20" wheel.

i'm hopping that the 5303 has an even number of smaller strands for the windings. that would make it easy to separate into 2 separate windings. otherwise you will either have to drop one strand out of the windings to keep things balanced OR strip out the wires and do a wind from scratch.

be interested to see how you solve the problem of getting all 12 of those wires out of the case. though i do think that Doc's 70 amp relays may fit internally. to keep things flat enough to fit inside the case maybe a custom made circuit board to do all of the wiring with the relays soldered directly to the board.

so doc any manufacturer/source data for those 70 amp relays? are they available in a pc mount?

this may still not be your holy grail though. our design goals were different and for different applications. my goal was to run a vehicle for 1hr on approximatetly 480Whr energy and run fast enough to beat everyone else trying to do the same. top speed of 50 or 60 kph is acceptable. yours is to accelerate as quickly as possible to reach the highest speed possible. i didn't need to pull the crazy big amps that you are trying to pull. i wanted to improve the acceleration to gain an edge. i also wanted to show innovation to try and impress someone enough to invest some money.

i may still try another electrathon cyclocar. the new rules allow 29lbs of LiFePO4 or 15lbs of LiPo. opens a whole world of possibilities. it just won't be a dragster. after all it has to complete a 1 hour race.

rick
 
Karma, you said 54mph in this stimulus, but the video you wrote 54Km/h just wanted to be clear where this golden got you to.
Thanks SS


EDIT- Never mind bro. I just bought a 9C. Will experiment with that. Thanks.



karma said:
ok did the test just before i got stoped at a lite. i cant stop smiling :). doc its just what your looking for if you want that speed record. i got 54mph and it was only a block :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0GHdr0bJ1s


enjoy i will try to make a better one later tonight.

sorry about the potty mouth in the vid the delta kicking in has a weird feeling.


cheers
 
Check it out guys! I bought a 9C too! And Im gonna Delta/WYE the setup. But I got this idea, and I been looking into it, Im pretty sure its a great idea, so Im sharing it with ya, and will post photos as it goes.
Heres the deal, I used to be a machinest/maintenance tech in a huge factory, had some equipment pushing 5,000 volts! Microwaves drivers. Anyway, the hookups had to be super low resistance with ultra high temp insulation. Teflon is the key! And Silver clad copper wire. Now I been looking for a couple days for some good suppliers of teflon insulated silver over copper wire, and the best deals, well they seem to be on eBay!

So, Im buying this incredibly thin high tech wire, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200406826473&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1123 This is 22-awg teflon wire, it will be used to replace all hall sensor wires, its good to 300 volts and 200c degrees. Then using this similar (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200406826460&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123 ) but 16-awg teflon 600 volts and 200c degrees, to do all 6 phase wires! The teflon insulation is much thinner that silicone, very very very low loss, low resistance wire, and extremely high temp resistance, not to mention its resistant to a large variety of chemical and enviromental stress, AND being teflon, very SLIPPERY for getting into tight spots. This 16 guage wire should well outperform 12 guage silicone wire!

A last note, I can tell ya from this work experience too, there is mag wire out there with way better insulation characteristics than whats going onto these hubs. And for us "serious enthusiests" Spending a few extra bucks to rewind with a super high temp mag wire should be an upgrade option we automatically look at when we toast a pie! Im thinking about rewinding a perfectly good pie just so its done right! Of course, gonna do it with Delta/WYE as an integral part of the design. That will be on this GM once I get my phase shifted 9C done and mounted.

TEFLON! LIVE IT! LOVE IT!
 
Hey guys, Got almost everything on the way, the 9C motor, teflon wires, connectors, batteries, 72v 65a 18FET controller. the ONLY thing I have left to order is my switching vehicle. I really need some help! Ive been searching for days! Im gonna be running 72v 65a, and will have a 12v converter for lighting. what is the best switching option I can use to switch delta/wye on that power that dont cost more than 250 bucks total ? Either one switch that does it all for 250, two that will do it all for 125 each, ect.. Please give me some input! What is the maximun amperage I should expect per leg? Getting frustrated with the switching plan. Thanks you dudes! (and gals?) SS
 
Silver Surfer,

Great stuff man, I've been a bit preoccupied of late and am just catching up...

I looked into the PTFE (teflon) silver clad copper and if my understanding is correct.. the phase power wire (16g) youre suggesting / using is rated MIL and 600v (assuming that's AC rating)? If I understand this right, 15a @ 600v ac is what that equates to?

If all things are equal that would be good for 150A @ 60v - in theory atleast, my sub conscious is bugging me though because it seems that there is some law I'm neglecting which is why it's always best to get your power from voltage rather than current, I fear that the amount of lost power and thus heat (somewhere) will be far greater at 60v than it would be at 600v - please correct me or elaborate / specify the law I am thinking of (it's late).

If I am wrong and lower voltages don't mean lower current handling and thus lower total power:

Wouldn't the optimal solution for a direct drive hub be to have 3 phase leads of 14 or even 12 guage (ptfe) in the same silver clad copper and then internaly wire relays with the same (or less if absolutely needed) to provide the delta/wye switching. This provides largest guage to handle the extended high power (not only on inital launhc but only as torque runs out and noload is approached does the draw drop) needed to drive a direct drive hub up to speed... it also handles the higher voltages of delta mode back EMF nicely and lets be honest the teflon coating is probably the safest and lightest insulation not to to mention the best to work with (I've used it for other projects)

The idea in a geared brushless DC motor would serve the 6 phases out with (required) external switching but here 16 or 14g would be fine because the peak current draw happens very quickly (inrunner spins up to no load fast thanks to gearing so you have 1-3 seconds of high power followed by lower than normal direct drive currents for same kT (torque per amp). Here the bursts of required energy would be so quick they wouldn't even heat the wires I would think that would assist in the extension of life with the relays also (running a geared bldc hub).

I've read this all over as I begin reasearch of a newer MCU controlled but relay (or actuated mechanical contact) that I would like to build for a new project (Dahon Speed Frame - geared bldc hub / 9c dd hub - matching demo bikes) 60-70A and 15S as of now but I may lower that a bit ... my current setup is a infineon with a soldered shunt (too much solder) and 600w rated internal brushless geared hub motor which I push 5.6 hp out of and dash from 0-27 on flat ground in 3 seonds if I can keep the front end down).

The teflon wire (if lower voltge doesn't effect it's handling abilities should be good for a maximum power of 9000w or 12 hp (not too shabby) seems very promising!

I have many 9C here but I've only got the delt wye crudely working on 2 wheels and it's external switching... it's really cool but I just haven't had time until now to get on making this for my 2 main riders / demo bikes.

I think the idea of PCB mounted relays is great but I am also beginning some form of physical hardware style switching mechanism may be the better way to go as opposed to relays... Think beam with gold plug connecters on each side and put it on a sliding mechanism, anchor the NC side with a strong spring pulling it to NC position. Mechanically a cable would pply pressure from the sprung side... this would force all the connectors on the wye side to disconnect the same time the continued pressure ensure the delta contacts make positive connection but only after the wye has been split for sure, this is kinda of mechanical dead zone to ensure no shorts or shoot through events.

Actuating this would be easy... a simple hobby servo - with the "diy contactor" setup to be engaged with the servo in it's 0 position and to engage delta power is applied to the servo and it's position is set to the maximum plug depth on the opposite side of the slide... assuming 2mm thick "moving beam" and 3.5mm connectors plus enclosure (ABS plastic or aluminum but insolated and sealed) and the package shoudl be self contained within 18mm x 8mm x 5mm (if my boxing designs are right) and I have sourced a nice aluminum enclosure just a tad larger than a 6fet controller.

One final bit - I've seen this schematic on the thread referring to ABC and abc but what I haven't seen (nor done yet, don't want to take the time if it's here already) - is there a simple to understand delta / wye relay schematic? by simple I mean, properly labled and in known terms like - From Controller (Phase Power Y, G, B) seperated wye bundle (y, g, b) and then the way to configue 3 SPDT and 1 3PDT or 1 DPDT or 3xSPDT relays to acheive a working hookup (you know A from controller to SPDT (Y) input line, output line Wye (Y) to Motor Y, etc... If it doesn't exist I will create it, it took me forever to grasp the concept and once I had it, well... I figured out why I never got it (the schematic, I couldn't find a proper one).

I would really like your feedback on a machined (or cast) mechanical (but actuated) delta/wye switch? Don't forget we can add throttle position sensor, wheel speed, motor speed (for geared hubs), current and calculate when the proper shift points are... providing multiple levels of service from economy to performance top speed. The

I just think that servo the current draw would be minimal and only in delta mode, the amount of torque to move the slide will be minimal and that will be a low current / torque to begin with (resisted by a spring just taught enough to disengage the wye (default) mode side when the servo is powered down.

My goal is a system which allows tuning of automatic shift point (and yes, override for those of us who are control freaks) but that anyone could build in an afternoon with available parts and did I mention how easily a contat can be tested and replaced if need bd? Body could be wood (fire hazard but hey what isnt on a LiPo eBike that does 45mph.

Have you played with regen braking at various speeds from varios modes (delta/wye) to see the effect... my limited knowlede would lead me to believe if you were doing 38mph and flipped from delta into wye the current would increase by 1.73 (assuming the inverse of the output rule of kT increasing in wye mode and decreasing in delta) - would this not (if the pack could handle it) provide for massive breaking power and regen current (for large packs)?

I am working on an internally geared hub but with a true mechanically clutched freewheel, in case you fail to see the importance... initally, lets say you live in a flat area... a fully freewheeling hub is your advantage because you an pulse and go but for thie efficiency gain (and low end toque) you loose regen (freewheel spins on while stopping) - engage the clutch and the frewheel locks - basically a geared diret drive and fully capable of regen output!

This is just my .02 and may or may not be accurate (it's 4:30am).

PS: I am looking for relays ( I will beef them up ) for use with 9C hubs (I have many) but I have 2 builds in desperate need of the proper relays... they will both be running 63v and maximum of 60A Primary Current with Infineon 9FET. If anyone has spare (bought in bulk and willing to sell / ship to Philadelphia area) I would love to buy a batch that is known to work. I am not above beefing up the relays with solder wick (love the stuff) to improve current handling... I expect a max systained between 50-60 amps continuous... any reasonable offer won't be turned down, I have some relays on order but I'd love to work with a known working combination.

Thanks for all the info guys!

-Mike
 
* double post - removed
 
most 5-pin or 5-post relays have a standadised dimension for the base and the 5-pins. they describe them a s "BOSCH" type or "Lighting/Control" relays. the automotive industry has been using them for like centuries. the 5-pins/posts are "BLADE" shaped.

the 20A/30A ones are meant for general Lighting and accessory control. this would be like add on side lights, small motor itiens like door locks etc. the 30A/40A are usually meant for larger lights like the headlights and larger motorised items like power windows. last there are 40A/50A contact relays that were added to handlle the higher current of electrical radiator fans and small airconditioner compressors. if they are described as "BOSCH" type relays all of them will plug into the same socket under the hood or dashboard of your car. all Bosch type relays use the same spacing and dimensions for the connector or socket on the base. if you do not want to use the socket then use can use regular .250"(6.35mm) female "Spade" or "Blade" type connectors. but never fear 90% of the relays you see on the web or ebay using that 5-pin/post base will be at least physically interchangeable with each other. the reason they are so cheap is because they are so plentiful. and the SPDT is the most common as it can be used to replace either a NO-SPST or a NC-SPST

what does differ between them is the internal wiring of the contacts like which pin is the normally closed and which is the normally open. on some the location of these is physically reversed. these pins are identified by numbers on the base. pins #85 and #86 are the relay coil. pin #30 is the common contact. #87a is the NORMALLY CLOSED contact and #87 would be the NORMALLY OPEN contact. most relays have the #87a contact in the center of the relay. on some (less common) relays the #87 and the #87a are reversed location with the #87.

with the advent of remote starters and remote ignition systems, relays that could handle larger current were needed. this is where the 70A relays come in. the still use the same 5-pin base but the blades for the contacts need to be larger to handle the bigger current. thes use larger .312" (7.92mm) wide blades for the contacts while keeping the .250" contacts for the coil. the spacing and location are the same as the smaller relays. this is deliberate. in an emergency you could plug in a smaller relay to get your vehicle going. most places don't stock the 70A variety.

now this was fine back in the old days when only a few things in a car/truck were controlled by a relay. haveing a largeish cube shape relay was fine. most cars only had a couple of them. but with the advent of modern electronic controls for absolutetly everything those old fashion relays are too big. so now days many vehicles are beginig to use smaller purpose built relays to fit into tight spaces. standardization has gone out the window.

the problem with fitting the relays inside the case of the 9C is the height of the relays from the blades to the top of the cover. add the additonal height of the wiring and you could have trouble fitting it in between the side covers of the 9C motor. this is why i used flag type or 90 degree connectors on the wires.

9c-1.jpg
9c-3.jpg

these are 40A/50A relays they fit necely between the covers. the 70A ones are generally much taller and would not fit between the covers. if i was trying to get a higher current rating i would likely fit another set of identical relays wired in parallel to handle the higher current. the round openings in the stator just need to be opened up a bit with a dremel to fit the relays. the relays can be glued in place using an epoxy/flox mix.

the other problem is the smallish size hole in the axle to fit those phase wires through. it could be a real struggle to fit 3 X #12AWG teflon phase wires + 5 X #24AWG hall wires + 1 X 24AWG Relay Coil wire through it. may be more reasonable for 14AWG phase wire and keep it short. it is still a heck of an improvement over the stock 18AWG wire they use.

my quick and dirty estimation for a DIY weekend hot rod project would be 3X 40A/50A relay mounted internally and 14AWG teflon wire harness. the "Gonzo" version of the kit would be 6 relays.

rick
 
one more thing about these relays. they are rated with 2 different current ratings. the ones i used are 40/50A. that means 40A on the NORMALLY CLOSED Contact and 50A on the NORMALLY OPEN contact. contacts arc and spark more on opening than on closing. so they are rated lower for opening than closing. the contacts are identical. read this to mean that if the contact is closed it can safely switch 40A on opening. if it is open it can switch 50A on closing.

if only one rating is given it is usually the lower of the 2 ratings or the rating for opening the contacts. unscrupulous ebay retailers may quote the higher number instead though.

there is also a carry current rating. it is higher than the switching rating of the contact. my relays are rated for 75A carry. these carry ratings also change with temperature. they are usually rated at 85C. the carry current could be almost double that at 25C and less than half that at 105C. you need to check the spec sheet for exact details. note that this is for the continous carry current and not for the make or break current. most relays can carry core current than they can switch but since this carry current varies with temperature, it is safer to assume that the carry and switch current are the same.

for the total wackos out there, this could be the reason to have the relays external to the motor. as the temp inside the case rises the current rating of the relays decreases.

rick
 
Yeah, going with the thicker wire would be far better! Silver over copper in teflon is still the best choice. Bht the ONLY way your gonna do that is with the relays INSIDE the hub. Im really havent seen where a relay that can take 72-100v at 65+ amps can do that, AND fit inside the hub!

As for a mechanical DIY, That may well be what the high voltage efforts will have to do. I was brainstorming it last night and came up with pennies for the contactors. I was thinking of putting a hand operated switch on the right side of bike, have to take hand off of throttle to operate. Six wires out the hub. builing my own mechanical in the hub could be good. Im thinking though that using a servo is over kill on the technology, and mag. coil to operate the mech. switch inside the hub would only need two thin wires, instead of the four in a servo. Not to mention servo control is a little more complex than coil activation, and that could be big. I dont want to put anything IN the hub unless I feel confident I wont have to get at it any time soon!

The details of a DIY switch are still on my drawing board. One of the really important parts of building a DIY switch is some of the components need to be non conductive, and heat resistant, easy to fabricate, and easily accessable. Hhhhmmmmmm. Teflon, plastics, glass, what to use?






mwkeefer said:
Silver Surfer,

Great stuff man, I've been a bit preoccupied of late and am just catching up...

I looked into the PTFE (teflon) silver clad copper and if my understanding is correct.. the phase power wire (16g) youre suggesting / using is rated MIL and 600v (assuming that's AC rating)? If I understand this right, 15a @ 600v ac is what that equates to?

If all things are equal that would be good for 150A @ 60v - in theory atleast, my sub conscious is bugging me though because it seems that there is some law I'm neglecting which is why it's always best to get your power from voltage rather than current, I fear that the amount of lost power and thus heat (somewhere) will be far greater at 60v than it would be at 600v - please correct me or elaborate / specify the law I am thinking of (it's late).

If I am wrong and lower voltages don't mean lower current handling and thus lower total power:

Wouldn't the optimal solution for a direct drive hub be to have 3 phase leads of 14 or even 12 guage (ptfe) in the same silver clad copper and then internaly wire relays with the same (or less if absolutely needed) to provide the delta/wye switching. This provides largest guage to handle the extended high power (not only on inital launhc but only as torque runs out and noload is approached does the draw drop) needed to drive a direct drive hub up to speed... it also handles the higher voltages of delta mode back EMF nicely and lets be honest the teflon coating is probably the safest and lightest insulation not to to mention the best to work with (I've used it for other projects)

The idea in a geared brushless DC motor would serve the 6 phases out with (required) external switching but here 16 or 14g would be fine because the peak current draw happens very quickly (inrunner spins up to no load fast thanks to gearing so you have 1-3 seconds of high power followed by lower than normal direct drive currents for same kT (torque per amp). Here the bursts of required energy would be so quick they wouldn't even heat the wires I would think that would assist in the extension of life with the relays also (running a geared bldc hub).

I've read this all over as I begin reasearch of a newer MCU controlled but relay (or actuated mechanical contact) that I would like to build for a new project (Dahon Speed Frame - geared bldc hub / 9c dd hub - matching demo bikes) 60-70A and 15S as of now but I may lower that a bit ... my current setup is a infineon with a soldered shunt (too much solder) and 600w rated internal brushless geared hub motor which I push 5.6 hp out of and dash from 0-27 on flat ground in 3 seonds if I can keep the front end down).

The teflon wire (if lower voltge doesn't effect it's handling abilities should be good for a maximum power of 9000w or 12 hp (not too shabby) seems very promising!

I have many 9C here but I've only got the delt wye crudely working on 2 wheels and it's external switching... it's really cool but I just haven't had time until now to get on making this for my 2 main riders / demo bikes.

I think the idea of PCB mounted relays is great but I am also beginning some form of physical hardware style switching mechanism may be the better way to go as opposed to relays... Think beam with gold plug connecters on each side and put it on a sliding mechanism, anchor the NC side with a strong spring pulling it to NC position. Mechanically a cable would pply pressure from the sprung side... this would force all the connectors on the wye side to disconnect the same time the continued pressure ensure the delta contacts make positive connection but only after the wye has been split for sure, this is kinda of mechanical dead zone to ensure no shorts or shoot through events.

Actuating this would be easy... a simple hobby servo - with the "diy contactor" setup to be engaged with the servo in it's 0 position and to engage delta power is applied to the servo and it's position is set to the maximum plug depth on the opposite side of the slide... assuming 2mm thick "moving beam" and 3.5mm connectors plus enclosure (ABS plastic or aluminum but insolated and sealed) and the package shoudl be self contained within 18mm x 8mm x 5mm (if my boxing designs are right) and I have sourced a nice aluminum enclosure just a tad larger than a 6fet controller.

One final bit - I've seen this schematic on the thread referring to ABC and abc but what I haven't seen (nor done yet, don't want to take the time if it's here already) - is there a simple to understand delta / wye relay schematic? by simple I mean, properly labled and in known terms like - From Controller (Phase Power Y, G, B) seperated wye bundle (y, g, b) and then the way to configue 3 SPDT and 1 3PDT or 1 DPDT or 3xSPDT relays to acheive a working hookup (you know A from controller to SPDT (Y) input line, output line Wye (Y) to Motor Y, etc... If it doesn't exist I will create it, it took me forever to grasp the concept and once I had it, well... I figured out why I never got it (the schematic, I couldn't find a proper one).

I would really like your feedback on a machined (or cast) mechanical (but actuated) delta/wye switch? Don't forget we can add throttle position sensor, wheel speed, motor speed (for geared hubs), current and calculate when the proper shift points are... providing multiple levels of service from economy to performance top speed. The

I just think that servo the current draw would be minimal and only in delta mode, the amount of torque to move the slide will be minimal and that will be a low current / torque to begin with (resisted by a spring just taught enough to disengage the wye (default) mode side when the servo is powered down.

My goal is a system which allows tuning of automatic shift point (and yes, override for those of us who are control freaks) but that anyone could build in an afternoon with available parts and did I mention how easily a contat can be tested and replaced if need bd? Body could be wood (fire hazard but hey what isnt on a LiPo eBike that does 45mph.

Have you played with regen braking at various speeds from varios modes (delta/wye) to see the effect... my limited knowlede would lead me to believe if you were doing 38mph and flipped from delta into wye the current would increase by 1.73 (assuming the inverse of the output rule of kT increasing in wye mode and decreasing in delta) - would this not (if the pack could handle it) provide for massive breaking power and regen current (for large packs)?

I am working on an internally geared hub but with a true mechanically clutched freewheel, in case you fail to see the importance... initally, lets say you live in a flat area... a fully freewheeling hub is your advantage because you an pulse and go but for thie efficiency gain (and low end toque) you loose regen (freewheel spins on while stopping) - engage the clutch and the frewheel locks - basically a geared diret drive and fully capable of regen output!

This is just my .02 and may or may not be accurate (it's 4:30am).

PS: I am looking for relays ( I will beef them up ) for use with 9C hubs (I have many) but I have 2 builds in desperate need of the proper relays... they will both be running 63v and maximum of 60A Primary Current with Infineon 9FET. If anyone has spare (bought in bulk and willing to sell / ship to Philadelphia area) I would love to buy a batch that is known to work. I am not above beefing up the relays with solder wick (love the stuff) to improve current handling... I expect a max systained between 50-60 amps continuous... any reasonable offer won't be turned down, I have some relays on order but I'd love to work with a known working combination.

Thanks for all the info guys!

-Mike
 
Bro, how many volts do you run through that system, and how long have you had it runnin? Are those the automotive relays as in made for 12v?
rkosiorek said:
one more thing about these relays. they are rated with 2 different current ratings. the ones i used are 40/50A. that means 40A on the NORMALLY CLOSED Contact and 50A on the NORMALLY OPEN contact. contacts arc and spark more on opening than on closing. so they are rated lower for opening than closing. the contacts are identical. read this to mean that if the contact is closed it can safely switch 40A on opening. if it is open it can switch 50A on closing.

if only one rating is given it is usually the lower of the 2 ratings or the rating for opening the contacts. unscrupulous ebay retailers may quote the higher number instead though.

there is also a carry current rating. it is higher than the switching rating of the contact. my relays are rated for 75A carry. these carry ratings also change with temperature. they are usually rated at 85C. the carry current could be almost double that at 25C and less than half that at 105C. you need to check the spec sheet for exact details. note that this is for the continous carry current and not for the make or break current. most relays can carry core current than they can switch but since this carry current varies with temperature, it is safer to assume that the carry and switch current are the same.

for the total wackos out there, this could be the reason to have the relays external to the motor. as the temp inside the case rises the current rating of the relays decreases.

rick
 
SilverSurfer said:
Bro, how many volts do you run through that system, and how long have you had it runnin? Are those the automotive relays as in made for 12v?

ages it seems. 2 years at the least. the relays are 12V coil marine grade 40/50A relays i bought from some on-line supplier. DelCity i think. the 90 degree Flag connectors are regular parts from Tyco/Amp and i got them at Digikey.

the standard lighting relay contacts are rated for 28/32V. that is because the same relay except for the coil is used for 12V cars and 24V trucks. only the coils are changed. the 12V coils is usually 100feet of #28AWG wire and the 24V is about 150ft of #36AWG. most 12V relays will reliably pull in at about 8V (just to make sure cars will start in sub zero temperatures with SLA batteries sagging down below 9V while cranking) and 24V ones at around 16V. the coils a"re hooke in series and i use am LM317 regulator wired as a constant current source to provide a 100mA drive to the coils. the coils can take a bit of overvoltage as well. if you limit the current you can pretty much set the activation voltage you desire.

wheel normally runs using a 48V LifeBat LifePO4 10Ah pack and a Crystalyte V1 50A controller. though i have run it with 72V LiFePO4 batteries. that one is in a 20" wheel and is what ebikes.ca calls a 2807 motor.

recently i did a pair of 10 turn low speed motors the same way mounted in 26" wheels. i have not had much experience with these yet.

the idea is not new. i was not the first to do it either. recently it just seems to have gained in popularity.

rick
 
Sizing the Relay:
I really don’t want to mod the metal of the hub if I can avoid it, and going the 50A+ route sure had me convinced that I might need to do that. But after seeing what Tostino did to his relays, I began to measure my 9C 2806 hub (in my best Elmer Fudd voice) verwy carefuwy :wink:

9C-2806-Hub.png

EDIT: Annotated image.

The lowest clearance of the hub cover is where the bearing is mounted within the axel housing, however the ribbing is what we need to worry about. By deduction I calculated the distance between the "spoke" and the supporting ribs on the cover to allow for a 25mm maximum headspace.

If you purchase a relay in the NTE R51-series (50A/70A range) it will fit inside the hub just barely. Removing the dust cover would likely buy back 3 or more millimeters. I suspect that the holes may need to be opened up to accommodate the terminals though the relay spec drawings are incomplete in this regard. Note however that the "spoke" is not level or even flat; mine has at least a 1.5mm warp from one side to the other and that's probably due to the riveting.

Personally I am now looking at the NTE R52-5D40-12 because it is rated at 40A even, it’s only 20mm high (and already without shell), it switches pretty fast at 10ms, and the max switching voltage is 75VDC. I plan on running 15s LiPo; works for me. Then again, the wild side of me clandestinely desires the NTE R51-5D40-12… I guess it depends on who is in charge when I make the purchase: Dr. Jekyll or Mr. Hyde :twisted:

10 AWG Silver-plated Teflon (PTFE) wire should be here next week.
~KF
 
Ok then! Im convinced, rkosiorek, thanks for the advice! Im gonna use the marine grade style relays inside the hub. Im gonna do six of the spdt's. Parallel sets. I already have wire on the way! but its 16g teflon. I was gonna get six out of the hub. I was just about to write my supplier if I could exchange, then realized, two 16g's per leg!!! easier to run in the axle too! LOL Yup, the time flux continuum is about to get warped on my block! LOL
 
Wow Silver, I just noticed you are in St Pete! Damn, I know there were a couple people in my area, but very cool that your so close!

I live up in New Port Richey, but work in Tampa. Very cool.
 
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tostino said:
Wow Silver, I just noticed you are in St Pete! Damn, I know there were a couple people in my area, but very cool that your so close!

I live up in New Port Richey, but work in Tampa. Very cool.

Home of the mighty Pinellas Trail! Gotta love it! SS
 
Where do you guys get the silver-plated teflon-coated wire from? Sorry if this is a FAQ
 
Guys, I have been thinking about a method for mechanical swiching from Delta / Wye.

An observation from my own testing... I find that I want the optimal shift point so wide open throttle accelleration goes through a smooth transition from Wye to Delta to wye based upon wheel speed.

I've come up with dozen or more electromechanical methods for acheiving this (including a crude but 160A contact capable Delta Wye mechanical actuator - distributed into 3 actuators and SPDT CO contact beams.

These are all great but will require manual shifting or some form of automatic electical shifting...

Finally I had a thought about my old go carts and such and the centrifigual clutches they used... This got me thinking, if we were to weight and position 3 SPDP switches calibrated for the same trigger velocity (RPM) we would have the perfect automatic (electromechanical - old school). These could be made to install within many hubs as they don't been to be super large - the part I don't know and don't want to become a guru about is calculating the mass and tension/spring rate resistance to make these engage at precice points (ie: 336RPM, switch over from Delta to Wye takes place within the hub).

This may be crackpot but I would think a centrifigually triggered mechanical delta/wye switching could be the most robust and easiest to fabricate of all... I suppose solid shaft with proper spring tension forcing wye until internal downforce ont hat spring causes it to give and connect the delt circuit.

Feed back or failure stories welcome and invited...

-Mike

I also retouch on some of the linear (micro) actuators capable of a few mm of throw and requirng current only to switch (pulse current, not continuous)... a simple Y connection to a single input and a pair of output gold connectors would do this well too.

My concern with relays if I haven't mentioned it earlier is the thermal breakdown temps of the magnets in the relays... loose these and your in a world of hurt.

Please any feedback would be greatly welcome...

PS: I am working on taking some of the reportedly working relays and having mounting inserts designd for the Stator cutouts and perhaps replacement magnets of a much higher temp capacity to hopefully prevent issues with thermal breakdown. I am also going to attempt to hand wind some relays for this purpose specifically - built to do the job correctly
 
Hey Great new.. I found some SPDT 80A car relay at one of our local electronic surplus store!

Brand new... 8$ each

Very similar size of the common Bosh relay!! ( also have 28mm side)

I also found them on ebay!! :http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...4fffbd46a&rvr_id=&ua=WXI7&itemid=400099080285


These have large copper terminal so there is no doubt that they can do the 100V 100A AC of our 3 phase system!

Here is one i have:
 

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Doctorbass said:
Hey Great new.. I found some SPDT 80A car relay at one of our local electronic surplus store!

Brand new... 8$ each

Very similar size of the common Bosh relay!! ( also have 28mm side)

I also found them on ebay!! :http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...4fffbd46a&rvr_id=&ua=WXI7&itemid=400099080285


These have large copper terminal so there is no doubt that they can do the 100V 100A AC of our 3 phase system!

Here is one i have:


i bought 6 of these for 60$ shipped to my house !!

new star/delta 1000w golden motor in the works!

-steveo
 
Great!..

Golden motor can have enough romm for 6 of those?

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
Great!..

Golden motor can have enough romm for 6 of those?

Doc

Good point... I will find out soon .. or else it will be external relays :p

-steveo
 
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