Ender 3 v2, upgrade or not?

With the shorter spring I was able to print my tpu discguard:

dpJ4uk1.jpg


It turned out to be too soft to offer much protection though.
But at least it got printed ;)
 
With the shorter spring I was able to print my tpu discguard:

dpJ4uk1.jpg


It turned out to be too soft to offer much protection though.
But at least it got printed ;)
Which you did you use? The are some variations that print much further. But anyway, at least it got done!
 
May I ask what the work is, what field? I'm curious.

I don't think there's anything inherently wrong or bad with Bambu. And I don't think the Ender printers are the best; they're not at all. But for a lot of uses, and for my uses, they're more than good enough. The most important detail is that every part on an Ender 3 is generic, cheap, and easy to replace. For my uses, that's most important.
The ender and others like it print well when they are working, but for many users it is frequently in a state of disrepair or malfunction to some extent.

At some point you may get tired of fiddling with the printer and want to focus on the printed items... thats where im at.
 
Which you did you use? The are some variations that print much further. But anyway, at least it got done!
Im not sure what you mean "print much further" ?
Anyway, the filament I used was "addnorth easy flex" and it is supposed to be 95A shore hardness.

For some reason the notifications when there is a reply in this thread dosent work for me 🤔
 
Im not sure what you mean "print much further" ?
Anyway, the filament I used was "addnorth easy flex" and it is supposed to be 95A shore hardness.

For some reason the notifications when there is a reply in this thread dosent work for me 🤔
That was a typo, mean "print much harder." But hey, if it doesn't work, then it doesn't work, 95A usually works. Maybe you can adjust the model to have thicker walls?
 
For reference, I was able to successfuly print TPU on Ender 3 Pro without changing to direct drive. I changed the hotend to all-metal, and I have metal dual-gear extruder upgrade, as well as upgraded teflon tube to much higher quality Capricorn.

I wouldn't try TPU on a heatbreak where the PTFE touches the nozzle directly. Putting a direct-drive extruder on top of such a setup doesn't solve this particular issue at higher temps.
 
With the shorter spring I was able to print my tpu discguard:

dpJ4uk1.jpg


It turned out to be too soft to offer much protection though.
But at least it got printed ;)
I've been back testing materials and I think you should look into some special Nylons or PCs. I've tested probably over a hundred 3D printing materials at this point and impact performance is a key metric for me. There are 3 materials that stand out while having enough stiffness for a part like this.

Lexan - Got to get the good stuff from Sabic although other high quality PC may work, generic PC just is crap. Warps bad, needs chamber, have to print at like 300-320C to get good layer bonding but once you get that it's impact performance in all axis is just stupid for how stiff it is.

065 trimmer line - Yes string trimmer line, it's just the wackyest, most flexable, run in through a wood chipper and it gives zero frocks nylon you can get. It's also a nightmare to print, beds that work great with other nylons just kinda barely work with it, decently high temps to get good layer bonding and it warps like nothing thing else you can imagine. But flat parts with lots of bed surface those issues aren't so bad. It's pretty flexible but much stiffer than 98A TPU, maybe half way between ABS/PETG and TPU stiffness wise. Also it's cheap as shit but no color options. Layer bonding even at higher temps is also not quite as good as the other two here.

PA-TPU blends - All the magic of Nylon combined with all the magic of TPU. Prints at reasonable temps, doesn't warp too bad, maybe slightly less than pure nylon, bed adhesion is pretty good on garolite, actually better than nylon by a little. Stiffness similar to the trimmer line so it's flexable but much harder than TPU. Layer bonding is amazing, like unmatched besides TPU. Impact perforamnce is like nothing else, beats the above two, like better numbers than most common 3D print materials with test samples that are half as thick. Some horizontal samples just stop the IZOD test hammer dead. Also very limited availability this is the only current MFG I've found and it's only limited availability since taulman was closed. I honestly don't understand why everybody doesn't make this stuff, I think all these companies are too obsecsessed with absolute strength with exotic nylons filled with carbon fiber that have garbage layer bonding and crap impact performance. If I want a strong 2D part I'll laser cut or CNC mill it, what's the point of strong materials if they don't have the layer bonding to be strong in all directions.

I do have some other exoitc filaments that should perform well but haven't got a chance to test them yet.
 
Back
Top