Epik Whistler

miro13car said:
I am not "sowing any discord"
that's only YOUR opinion.
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I would encourage anyone who has questions about Epik's products, services and origins to contact Epik directly, rather than engaging in speculation here. We have found them to be very accessible, open, friendly and approachable.
 
WASYLBRYTAN said:
GlenT said:
FYI, I found the following under the FAQ section on the Fallbrook website:

The N360 can be used on ebikes with electric front hub motors and mid mount motors of 250 watts or less. Powering the hub with more than 250 watts voids warranty coverage.
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That is quite a shocking surprise, I will ask Melody about that next time I see her.
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Confirmation from Fallbrook on the limitation of warranty on N360 hubs:

The N360 is only covered under warranty for mid mount motor systems of 250 watts or less. Thanks for the inquiry.
 
GlenT said:
The N360 is only covered under warranty for mid mount motor systems of 250 watts or less. Thanks for the inquiry.
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In any case, the only warranty that really needs to concern us is the one offered by EPIK. I'm sure they will honour their full warranty.
 
GlenT said:
Confirmation from Fallbrook on the limitation of warranty on N360 hubs:
The N360 is only covered under warranty for mid mount motor systems of 250 watts or less. Thanks for the inquiry.
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Thanks for getting this info Glen. The Nuvinci is perfect for me as I do not want to bother fiddling with gears.
As all my rides are less than 20km return, I always have the controller setting at 5, which allows me to tootle along comfortably, with pedalling, at about 35 kmh. I have not tried the bike with throttle only, (I'm guessing with a 250W motor it will be underpowered). The main purpose in my getting the bike was to get some exercise, and have a pleasurable ride at the same time. As far as I am concerned, after 150km, the Logan is rock solid. Even the seat is comfortable, though I intend to get a shock absorber post.
And I have the same confidence as Bill that Epik will more than honor their warranty.
 
wsw said:
quote]

As far as I am concerned, after 150km, the Logan is rock solid. Even the seat is comfortable, though I intend to get a shock absorber post.quote]
Getting a spring cruiser seat is cheaper. That is what I did even though the seat which came with mine was comfortable, I wanted it wider. This is a link to show you what my Whistler looks like. Out of the 3 pictures, mine is the one with fenders. I am not the rider in the picture though.
http://www.amegoev.com/electric-bicycles-amego-electric-bicycles/epik-electric-bikes/epik-whistler.html
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Regarding the N360 hub, I have rephrased my question to Fallbrook to ask if there are any "concerns" about running an N360 hub on an Epik bike. I am inclined to go ahead and order the bike that way, but I will get my wife to check with Melody on warranty issues.
 
Hi fellow Epik Whistler owners. Got her out riding today with battery fully charged, I got her running about
2 kilometers on level 3 assist mode then suddenly power went off my J-LCD display and the motor. Check
my battery status thru the pushbutton and all the led lights lit up which indicates the battery is still fully charged,
I checked my wire connectors to see any loose connections but none found. Did anyone here experienced this thing ?
I am really disappointed since I just got her a week ago. I am from Toronto by the way. Thanks.
 
sr78 said:
Hi fellow Epik Whistler owners. Got her out riding today with battery fully charged, I got her running about
2 kilometers on level 3 assist mode then suddenly power went off my J-LCD display and the motor. Check
my battery status thru the pushbutton and all the led lights lit up which indicates the battery is still fully charged,
I checked my wire connectors to see any loose connections but none found. Did anyone here experienced this thing ?
I am really disappointed since I just got her a week ago. I am from Toronto by the way. Thanks.
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Try unlocking the battery and removing it. Then pop it back in and make sure it clicks in securely. Sometimes the bullet connectors do not connect properly. Also, make sure that the switch at the base of the battery is switched on. Hope that helps. Bill
 
Wow that was a fast reply. I went out unlock the battery, take it out from the cradle and wipe the bullet
contacts re-install and switch the battery on + test J-LCD but did not work. Would the CR2032 button
battery that powers the J-LCD independently be the culprit ? Anyway thanks for the reply Bill.
 
sr78 said:
Wow that was a fast reply. I went out unlock the battery, take it out from the cradle and wipe the bullet
contacts re-install and switch the battery on + test J-LCD but did not work. Would the CR2032 button
battery that powers the J-LCD independently be the culprit ? Anyway thanks for the reply Bill.
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The CR2032 battery is probably dead but it functions off the bike battery as well so should not go blank, at least mine doesn't. Is the button at the base of the battery switched on? This causes the screen to go dead and nothing on the bike will work. This switch could conceivably get bumped and switched off while riding. Also, the battery will not charge unless this button is in the on position. This may seem like a silly question, but did you actually switch on the J-LCD after reconnecting?
 
OK, I just figured it out. When I switched off the switch at the base of my battery and then switched it back on, my J-LCD would not switch on, just like yours. I connected the charger and plugged it in and the J-LCD switched on fine. I then disconnected the charger and everything works ok. As long as the base battery switch is left on, the lcd works. I don't know why this happens, but it works for me. But that still does not explain why the lcd just went off while you were riding, unless the main switch somehow got switched off. Bill
 
OK, I tried the drill again this time it worked. I just hope this incident is not an intermittent, it will be embarrassing riding with my diy buddies.
 
sr78 said:
OK, I tried the drill again this time it worked. I just hope this incident is not an intermittent, it will be embarrassing riding with my diy buddies.
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Just make sure the master switch at the base does not get shut off again while you ride. I don't know why it happens but it seems to be a strange quirk of this particular bike and I'm glad the solution works.
 


then there's cost of all those flat tyres.[/quote]

Just passed 9000 kilometres and am amazed to report no flat tires yet. I normally have extremely bad luck with tires so I must give the Schwalbe Marathons credit for this one. Bill
 
Second reply from Fallbrook to my followup question about the N360 hub on Epik bikes:

We certainly mean to sell hubs, I just can’t advise doing so outside of our intended applications and warranty coverage. You may have difficulty shifting, and at 350 watts see diminished life of the hub. Overall, it’s really hard to say what performance/durability issues you may encounter. We do appreciate your interest in the hub, and hope you’ll consider it for one of the supported applications.
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Thanks for following up on this with Nuvinci, Glen. I think that a higher wattage motor would work OK with the following caveat.... don't try to shift from full high into a lower ratio when there is a lot of pressure being exerted on the crank.
The first day I had the bike, I found riding up a hill extremely frustrating. From a standing start on a hill, it was impossible to shift the Nuvinci from high to a lower ratio with my full weight pushing on the pedals, and the control at 5. Once I figured out that I needed to 'ease up' on the pedals, or even better, move the indicator a little off high gear prior to starting, it was easy to go to a lower ratio.
 
In essence, like my motorcycles, I guess it would be wise to downshift prior to coming to a full stop. That's probably a good strategy with any bike.
 
GlenT said:
In essence, like my motorcycles, I guess it would be wise to downshift prior to coming to a full stop. That's probably a good strategy with any bike.
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Only if you're on a hill. I have no trouble starting off from the high gear setting on level ground by first pressing the throttle button next to the controller and then pedalling. It will be interesting to compare your experience with mine when you get your Logan. Warren
 
GlenT said:
In essence, like my motorcycles, I guess it would be wise to downshift prior to coming to a full stop. That's probably a good strategy with any bike.
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To me, this defeats the purpose of an internally shifting rear hub in the first place. If I have to downshift before stopping there is nothing wrong with using a derailleur. I liked the nuvinci when I tested the Logan but I concluded that the extra money the hub cost would be better spent upgrading the drive train components, because these wear out faster on a mid drive. Anyway, each to his own, and in either case the EPIK is one spectacular bike. Bill
 
While on thumb throttle I normally ease off the throttle upshifting or downshifting on
pedal assisted mode I just momentarily stop pedaling before shifting and works like
shifting a normal sequential gas-powered bike, just needs getting use to it.

Speaking of the thumb throttle did anyone tried full throttle + 5th level pedal assisted mode yields
speed past 45+ kmh . With this bike I am happily riding my local trails again with grin in my face.
 
sr78 said:
full throttle + 5th level pedal assisted mode yields
speed past 45+ kmh .
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With the power cutting out at 40 kph, I have never been able to pedal past 41. If you can make it do past 45 you are an incredible athlete on par with the elite world class bicycle racers. Check your numbers again. If you can really pedal past 45 when the power cuts off at 40, we need to contact an official from the Guiness Book Of World Records. Bill
 
It might be a defective or prototype controller, I'll try to get an image of it next time.
I think this bike can easily go beyond its capabilities with a new motor (450w) and battery combo,
I wonder if its possible to upgrade these in the future. :D
 
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