[EU]Looking for a reliable conversion kit

Austin has mostly gentle slopes, with plenty of exceptions. There's slightly more total vertical relief here than in Seattle for instance. I'm recently relocated to the old part of town that was reserved for black folks, because it was hilly and marshy in spots, which were disadvantages in horse-drawn days.

Here's a cross town section that goes pretty much from bottom to top:

I missed that. That could be the steepest street. Looks like it hits almost 20%.

cat mtn 2.jpgcat mtn.jpg
 
I've done 40000km in just 3.5 years with constant stop and go city riding with speeds going up to 55kmph. No way I'm ever getting 11 years out of pads even if they were sprinkled with angel dust. I've tried sintered pads, but they also lasted only maybe 700km.

I might try your "EBC Gold HH+", but I'm scared to waste money on expensive pads as they never seem to last very long.
I knew those pads (and companion steel rotors) from when I rode an 1100cc Suzuki motorcycle. To be fair, I used the bicycle pads in Seattle for only a year or two before returning to Austin where it's not so steep. Also I only ever had them on a pedal bike, not an e-bike (but I weighed 350-400 lbs during that time). Other than EBC, the only fully metallic pads I've used have been stock Avid and generic replacements (Jagwire, Clarks, etc.) So there may be similar or better pads around that I'm not aware of.

They're not wildly expensive-- like $17-18 online, $14 from this vendor:

The main issue I have is hardly anybody carries them in stock at an LBS.
 
I knew those pads (and companion steel rotors) from when I rode an 1100cc Suzuki motorcycle. To be fair, I used the bicycle pads in Seattle for only a year or two before returning to Austin where it's not so steep. Also I only ever had them on a pedal bike, not an e-bike (but I weighed 350-400 lbs during that time). Other than EBC, the only fully metallic pads I've used have been stock Avid and generic replacements (Jagwire, Clarks, etc.) So there may be similar or better pads around that I'm not aware of.

They're not wildly expensive-- like $17-18 online, $14 from this vendor:

The main issue I have is hardly anybody carries them in stock at an LBS.
Thanks, I'm gonna look around what I can find here in Europe.
It's obviously also my riding style, when I am touring fully packed I get thousands of km out of my pads. It's that fast paced stop and go city riding that eats pads. I'm also considering upgrading my Shimano Deore m615 calipers for maybe a 4 piston.
 
I would only like to point out that your setups look more like motorbikes rather than legal EAPCs. No wonder you go through brake pads like hot knife through butter. I just changed pads in my bike after 10 years of service and I did it because I wanted rather than I had to.
 



Keep it simple, keep it effective.
The guy in the video has not really understood the reasons himself, I'm afraid. Like when he talks about mid motors, and mentions they have a clutch or freewheeling mechanism built in. He neglects the freewheel in the rear wheel. Smooth talker though.

Slightly off topic: is there any reason not to electrify the clutch(es), so that you can coast without motor drag (or without using electricity to spin the motor along while coasting), and then couple the motor to the wheel when you actuate the brake lever? The new planetary hub brake discussed in another thread here is maybe more elegant, but also limits the purely mechanical braking torque (essentially putting the regen brake and the non-electric brake in series). A clutch with an electric locking mechanism would not have this problem.
 
Last edited:
Why won't you install hydraulic brakes?
The regeneration with the smaller motor is less than I would like, but I'm moving to the All-Axle for other reasons (mostly to not use gears) and past experience shows me that should be adequate.

The trike came with mechanical brakes and they are quite adequate by themselves - I have no reason to replace them.
 
Ya, sort of like the 250W rated Brose I mentioned, 250W “rating”, 800W peak.

I was stumped for a while about the motor rating, and I tried riding so that I always used less than 250W indicated power with the GMAC I started with.

Then I learned what the rating meant - it's a generic capacity measure usually defined as "if the motor uses more than this power continuously it will overheat". A 3kw rated motor will run all day at 250W without overheating, but a 250W rated motor will run for a few seconds at 3kw before something melts.

It's a rough measure to limit potential power.

Wheel power is torque times speed. Damage is due to power dissipated as heat. These are two different aspects being measured even though the measurement unit (watts) is the same.

My current 250W motor (Shengyi SX2) will indicate 800+W going up my local 12% grade and it will begin heating up. At that power/heat level it will be damaged after a while. But I can push 250W through it all day without overheating,

So that number is what it can handle heat-wise without damage, which is a very rough measure of it's overall capacity. It does not mean it will only put that much power onto the road.
 
Back
Top