EV sonic 7 kit car

Had the car out on the drive way tonight to check lights out they are better than I thought they would be being so low and you are sitting right behind them.

I need to fill the side panels with something to stop the drumming noise coming thru its like a speaker box.

Any ideas????

Cheers :D
 
Glued-on stiffening ribs would help.

You could also fully or partly fill those areas with foaming filler, like sprayfoam insulation--it'd be pretty light.

But you need to do that with the panels not on the vehicle, and with forming panels around the back of the area so they don't "leak" foam into the rest fo teh vehicle or get stuck to it. ;)
 
Thanks Amber wolf

I wish there was a spray foam that didn't follow gravity I could just squirt it in the inside of the panels.

I was thinking about body deadner paint but access is tight.


I took the car out our dirt road about 2 mile each way the road has just been graded, WOW WOW :mrgreen: It is soooo cool you plant your foot and it goes from 40Kph to 100Kph on the speedo but you aren't moving its just chewing up dirt :D

Very happy not many jobs left to do before second trip to engineer.

Cheers
 

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What about something like dynamat, a sound deadening rubber sheet with an adhesive backing. That would absorb some vibration.

I like the glued on ribs idea too. Ribs would probably help reduce vibration in the first place, with the mat too, you would probably reduce quite a bit of the noise-producing vibration.

SHiFT
 
thanks for the suggestions guys

I cooked my charger so am waiting for it to come back. I'm keen to just buy 10 solar panels that would give me 155 volts at 17amps for $4100 or buy 20 and get 34 amps for $8,200 thats free and should charge in about 3-4 hours just hard to find a solar controller, EV Works have plug straight to there pack and just manually un-plug at around 159 volts on pack. Any thoughts on this????

wired battery monitor direct to pack via a fuse seams to have synced OK.

Got the VDO speed sensor mounted to Diff coupling and set up, not too hard just went on EV West site and worked out rpm at 60 kph with my wheels and Diff ratio to get total rpm for 1 km my sensor picks up the 4 bolts on Diff coupling so just multiplied rpm x 4 to tell speedo total pulses for 1 km. :D

Had the car on the dirt road a few times crazy drift until the Diff LSD kicks in :mrgreen:

Cheers Kiwi
 
kiwiev said:
thanks for the suggestions guys

I cooked my charger so am waiting for it to come back. I'm keen to just buy 10 solar panels that would give me 155 volts at 17amps for $4100 or buy 20 and get 34 amps for $8,200 thats free and should charge in about 3-4 hours just hard to find a solar controller, EV Works have plug straight to there pack and just manually un-plug at around 159 volts on pack. Any thoughts on this????

Cheers Kiwi

You could try an over voltage relay common in industrial control. Relatively cheap and readily available. Good insurance if you forget to un plug.

http://www.ia.omron.com/products/family/3381/specification.html
 
that looks the goods cheers man

Have another project in mind a bit more practical I was thinking a Ford Ranger 4 x4 with the same motor controllers but 2 battery banks at 100Ah x 144v with the ability to sit in the ute tray. Have one on charge when I'm just doing small trips to Jindabyne, its 13Km away and 2 banks when I go to Cooma 50Km away.
I could just engine crane them off and on feely quick. What do you think?

cheers Kiwi
 
What's a CRX? Mate.

I sent the charger back and EV Works are replacing it with another model only 13 amps but waterproof this will be nicer to my inverter as before I had to which what else was on in the house.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Oh a Honda

I sort of need a 4 x 4 it's snowing here ATM and we have 3 km of dirt road, sort of thinking what EV West had a ford ranger it's on there you tube channel very impressive.

If I could sell the Sonic I would love to do a Porsche 928 or 914 with 2 of my motors back to back that would give 330hp and nearly 400ftlb of torque.

Cheers Conrad
 
i preferred driving the CRX in the snow over a 4x4 since it has much better traction and is so light it doesn't slide out of control.

i would take mine all the way up the 4x4 roads to the hiking trails in the rockies. rocks were the biggest problem but usually i could drive around the ones that were over about 6" high.
 
It'd be great to be building these things all the time. People finish these things and sell them because they need money for the next one.

If I can only have one. . . . http://www.arielmotor.co.uk/nomad/introduction/
 
my old girlfriend drove her CRX in alaska for 2 years when she was stationed up there. 4 studded snow tires, battery and pan warmers but it drove through both winters up there.
 
i think the older ones are the lightest. i have 2 still in my collection. one is 1984 hf and it weighs about 1700lbs, 550 kilo.

the later years beginning in 1988 the body gained weight but it is still a small vehicle.

the other good point is the way the front suspension is on torsion arms that have an adjusting nut underneath which allows you to jack the car up higher if you have to drive in deep snow or big rocks.

the back has a large pan for the spare tire which most people cut out larger and remove the gas tank in front of the pan to make the battery compartment even larger. i always thought i would convert one of my CRXs but i think it is just easier to buy a used EV than convert.

but we have much cheaper used EV prices here than you guys too. climbing your long hill up to your place in deep snow would be taxing on any electric motor though. she has a steep, 1st gear hill up to her house also and it takes power to pull it, and of course there is the washboard too.

but the power needed would be even more if it was a ford ranger with big tires and the 2 kilo weight to haul, before the battery pack weight even. just my way of thinking. i always go light. keep the 4x4 on diesel if you can. imo
 
The Honda sounds light :D

Could you post some photos of engine bay and rear boot with measurements.

Also measure from gearbox to side of engine bay to see how long a motor I could fit. I'm thinking a HPEV A.c.-50

Cheers Kiwi btw what's your name?
 
Nice clean install, I love the new siamese HPEVS kits. I have an AC-20 kit for my motorcycle project, still waiting to decide what cells I'm going to use on it. In the motor lock up vid it sounded like a scraping noise (brake?) and/or vibration from misalignment going on - I know direct coupling motors has been problematic for people in the past, trying to get the runout down to zero is a &%#@ depending on your mounting arrangement. Do you have an easy way now with the new diff all set up to minimize the runout and prolong coupling life?

For your next project, if you want to split the difference between a 2wd Honda and the 4x4 Ranger, I'd suggest a 70-80's Subie Brumby. Gets you the 4WD in a fairly light unibody package, and comes with the bed for when you need to make the ute runs as well. Plus, I just love old soobies!
 
Thanks kd8

The video noise mostly Diff I never checked the oil it had been shipped to me dry :oops:

The coupling is a nylon spider between 2 finger adapters I need a photo but it allows 280 ftlb and 1.5 mm of mis-alignment
It works really well.

Charger should turn up this week.

Diesel is $1.48 a litre :x here have looked at the suby Ute hard to find a good one.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Yahoo charger turned up today. 8)

Nice and compacted 15amps at 160volt big cooling sink no need for a fan multi mount and waterproof.

May actual mount this on in the car :D
 
Well I mounted charger in the car behind the seat will take photos and post.

Works well 15amps has a tie lead to activate charger ie thru BMS loop I just hooked it to my driver charge switch.

Also wired 15amp weatherproof inlet plug and 15amp power lead with plug for weatherproof inlet plug.

Cheers Kiwi
 
making inside side panels today out of aluminum sheet have coated inside with body deaden-er.

see charger photos below.

cheers Kiwi
 

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