Fardriver controller problem

[DingusMcGee]

Has the thread poster said how many close together beeps he is getting? One?

Within the Fardriver Control Manual (get from fardriver.com) is a chart telling what failure /problem corresponds to a certain number of beeps made when there is a working controller.

 

[Albie72]

Sounds like 3

 

[Albie72]

Just checked when I put it in auto learn I get 2 beeps with one long beep all together 3

 

[Albie72]

I just read it's a learning problem how do I fix it

 

[DingusMcGee]

Albie72,

For that beep sequence 7.1.3 applies. The Self-learning phase. I have done the self-learning phase either with the powered wheel suspended or riding the ebike around. After a short time the wheel stops spinning. I do the save routine after it stops spinning— but is it necessary?

The save sequence is 2 steps — touch “save” and save in dialog box.

 

[Albie72]

My wheel wont spin at all when I do the learning

 

[DingusMcGee]

Did you Give the throttle a twist ?

Do you have a motor temperature transducer configured? If you do enter the type and if you do not have one select the appropriate choice under TempSensor: 0-NONE

Be sure to save this.

 

[Albie72]

I'll check tomorrow and yes when I twist the throttle nothing

 

[dominik h]

can you tell what wires from controller you have connected to side stand? i wired mine so that it disconnectes 12v power to main relay , because i did not know better.
thanks

I hooked " high brake" grey wire to the side stand

 

[peadar]

I hooked " high brake" grey wire to the side stand

Thanks , I got grey wire connected to brake light? for regen ?
not finished project yet. my bike is for the street,

 

[dominik h]

The sidestand is wired in paralell to the brakes switches
When my scooter is on the sidestand, the brake light is lighting and you can not accelerate.

 

[Albie72]

Well I tried everything if I'm reading it right fardriver is saying its something with the learning problem. Maybe cause I'm using a iPhone

 

[DingusMcGee]

Not exactly? You likely get some sort of shaft rotation or shaft jiggling upon throttling before you would expect to perform a self learn.

Using an iPhone? I do. The cell is maybe a year old.


But try an android? Plenty of them around.

Maybe download/replace/new/updated software for the remote’s motor interface program that resides in the Bluetooth receiver?

 

[DingusMcGee]

When I have gotten a new Fardriver controller and want to test it for proper phase and Hall connections or do self learn, there need only be 5 groups of wires connected to the controller.

1. The battery + and - power cables and a small lead to power + to the “on”/ignition wire

2. The motors 3 phase wires

3. The motors 5 Hall wires

4. The throttle 3 wires

5. The Bluetooth receiver plug into its receptor plug.

If you think some extraneous wiring signals are interfering with getting the motor to spin, then uplug the controller inputs until your have only these 5 groups remaining and then test using an android cell?

 

[Albie72]

Waiting for the new controller if it doesn't work I'll be selling for parts. They push electric and none near me knows anything about them. Back to gas

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

Here it is now

Thanks.
The parameters you set up seem correct.
All braking functions are disabled so it should have nothing to do with brake wiring.
Make sure your hall sensors are wired properly (that's the buch of thin wires coming from the motor)

I suspect the issue is that you didn't do the calibration step properly. You have to calibrate the motor and the throttle in order to get everything working.
Did you do it?
What instructions did you follow exactly in order to do so?

I know it must be extremely frustrating but don't worry, it'll be fine after this initial setup. I know it's a real pain, mostly because the instructions that comes with the controller completely suck.

 

[Albie72]

Thanks.
The parameters you set up seem correct.
All braking functions are disabled so it should have nothing to do with brake wiring.
Make sure your hall sensors are wired properly (that's the buch of thin wires coming from the motor)

I suspect the issue is that you didn't do the calibration step properly. You have to calibrate the motor and the throttle in order to get everything working.
Did you do it?
What instructions did you follow exactly in order to do so?

I know it must be extremely frustrating but don't worry, it'll be fine after this initial setup. I know it's a real pain, mostly because the instructions that comes with the controller completely suck.

It was running fine for 3 years then it just stopped working. There sending me a new controller I hope my motor didn't go bad

 

[Albie72]

So there sending me another controller but the
person I deal with said his engineer told him 150ah controller is recommended for a 10 thousand watt motor. He said it was debugged does anyone know if I have to do the learning after I hook it up

Thank you

 

[Albie72]

I tried to relearn the controller and this popped up on the bottom

 

[Albie72]

Says alarm

 

[dominik h]

Brake switch is closed as in the pictures before.

Just show your undervoltage settings. The controller is a dumb thing. When you have set undervoltage to maybe 80V it will show you an undervoltage alarm.

 

[Albie72]

My new controller is coming in so I wanted to try to fix it one more time. I hope the same thing doesn't happen when I hook up the new one

 

[Albie72]

I have no kick stand switch I also checked my brack switches and they are not stuck

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

Brake switch is closed as in the pictures before.

It should not matter since he disabled the function in the controller settings. When the function is disabled the controller doesn't take into account the input of the brake/stand signals anymore.

Just show your undervoltage settings. The controller is a dumb thing. When you have set undervoltage to maybe 80V it will show you an undervoltage alarm.

He posted them on the previous page, right now the undervoltage limit is set at 56V.

That's a bit strange, @Albie72 I suggest you check your wiring again, maybe there is a bad connection or a defective wire in your harness.
Could be that some power connector at the battery isn't secured, you try to draw current from it, but since the connection isn't proper you suddently get more resistance, leading in voltage drop, then controller restarts and beeps because the controller will do that if you switch it on while throttle is applied (it's a safety measure).

That could explain why it worked before and now it doesn't work anymore, maybe some wire got cut or is making bad contact, this can happen sometimes when crimping improperly.

So I guess I'd check the connections in the battery as well as all the part of the harness that is linked with ignition (especially the key switch that can be defective). Maybe start with the key switch as it is the easiest.

 

[Albie72]

Ok thank u I'll check