First E-Bike build - Full suspension, geared & DD motor

Actually I was thinking about that earlier-- and no I did not put any on there yet.. I have not put any torque on the freewheel yet though, So I'm sure It would be pretty easy to take off. You guys just use generic automotive grade anti-seize? I usually just spray some WD-40 on threads before I assemble.
 
shock said:
I'm pretty sure I am going to go with one of Lyens controllers. Hopefully there is some sort of standardization in the wiring color codes. The ebikekit controller for sale now is a "second gen" with different connectors than the wheel I received. I suppose that's why the wheel is in the discounted section.

So I'm off to a couple bike stores today to get a rear tire for this rim, a seat post, and hopefully a cassette.

Hopefully there is some sort of standardization in the wiring color codes? I feel lucky just to have the same wire colors when I buy the motor and controller from the same vender, connectors often don't fit together though. Often there is no standardization so you need to guess at times. Something here may help. though. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6241
 
Yep, they sell it in small one shot use. Usually at the counter. I don't think I would trust WD-40 after a year. This stuff is more like thick grease but with copper particles. It's tough enough to remove the freewheel since each time you pedal you are screwing it in tighter. I wish these companies would just convert over to cassettes, then we could have better quality and choices.

shock said:
Actually I was thinking about that earlier-- and no I did not put any on there yet.. I have not put any torque on the freewheel yet though, So I'm sure It would be pretty easy to take off. You guys just use generic automotive grade anti-seize? I usually just spray some WD-40 on threads before I assemble.
 
shock said:
Actually I was thinking about that earlier-- and no I did not put any on there yet.. I have not put any torque on the freewheel yet though, So I'm sure It would be pretty easy to take off. You guys just use generic automotive grade anti-seize? I usually just spray some WD-40 on threads before I assemble.

Lithium grease/most any automotive grease works fine as does anti-seize. You don't need much. Get some oil in your freewheel and put more in now and then if you want it to last. Thicker stuff i.e. SAE30 or 20-50 ect lasts longer and if you get enough in it can quiet things down a bit. See that your axle nuts fit flat on the dropouts when things are tightened. Mine did not so got better quality stainless nut and lock washer. Nylock/aircraft nuts werq also pay lots of attention to this area for awhile loose nuts trash your bike. It's the little details that make things run smooth and last for awhile.
 
There are some 48t Mountian bike chainwheels somewhere, google for it, that will help some with the higher speeds you will be traveling. Else you can replace your bottom bracket and crankset with the road versions to gear up as you will likely want to be able to pedal at speeds of 20+ with a slower cadence. You might want to talk to someone in the know at a bikeshop as bottom brackets and cranksets must line up with your freewheel just right for things to shift well. Have a good build.
 
Maybe I'll try finding a 48T front, to get higher ratios, Since you guys admit there are no good 11T freewheels. [in fact the DNP version is the only 11T freewheel I can find]

Even my GT cassette style 11T sounds like it "binding" when cranking hard on it, and an 11T freewheel is going to be even worse since the bearings are further away from the gear centerline. I think the 11T just has a tremendous amount of torque applied to each tooth, and it's going to wear out. Probably why one one company makes em! lol.

Here is a pic of the setup mocked up on the bike.
 

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@madrhino-

The Schlumpf HS drive is awesome! That would be pretty cool to have an additional set of planetary gears up front too.
 
Controller research completed. Ordered Lyen's 6 FET programmable edition with the programming cable and cycle analyst connections. :)
 
Another stealth bike builder, eh? Cool! I did the same thing. Check out my thread/blog if you have questions or concerns about anything. There's quite a bit of photo documentation to help. Where do you plan to put the battery?
 
shock said:
Maybe I'll try finding a 48T front, to get higher ratios, Since you guys admit there are no good 11T freewheels. [in fact the DNP version is the only 11T freewheel I can find]

Even my GT cassette style 11T sounds like it "binding" when cranking hard on it, and an 11T freewheel is going to be even worse since the bearings are further away from the gear centerline. I think the 11T just has a tremendous amount of torque applied to each tooth, and it's going to wear out. Probably why one one company makes em! lol.

Here is a pic of the setup mocked up on the bike.

Since you've got the Mega range on the back, (so have I), why not go Mega on the front too! I'm running 52-36 (any front derailleur can handle it), then you'll have a true dual purpose bike; mtb & street. :twisted:
 
shock said:
Maybe I'll try finding a 48T front, to get higher ratios, Since you guys admit there are no good 11T freewheels. [in fact the DNP version is the only 11T freewheel I can find]

Even my GT cassette style 11T sounds like it "binding" when cranking hard on it, and an 11T freewheel is going to be even worse since the bearings are further away from the gear centerline. I think the 11T just has a tremendous amount of torque applied to each tooth, and it's going to wear out. Probably why one one company makes em! lol.


Here is a pic of the setup mocked up on the bike.


Snagged one of the older Shimano Mega range freewheels off of e-bay it's an 11-34T. These are built better than the things they make now. Oil it up every 1500-2k miles and have had no problems in over 5K of use with the already second hand unit. Many of the new units come with little or no oil in them to start with as well as being a bit sloppy with tolerances. This does not help them last for sure. I really doubt most people even think about oiling their freewheels although it should be part of a regular maintenance routine. Oh, and I changed out the front BB and chain wheel so have 11 rear and 53t front good for pedaling at over 30MPH. Chain is centered one gear out from center as I never use the 34 tooth sprocket it's just there for looks. It's often the little things that matter.

Giantholesinreartriangler.jpg
 
I'm going to try and find one of those ebay shimanos. Thanks for the information guys.

In the meantime I installed the derailer and rear disk brake caliper. I got the brakes working good, but I'm going to take it up to the bike store to find the correct seatpost, and have my bike mechanic re0cable the derailer.
 
So I've made some more progress!

My lyen 6 fet controller arrived on black friday! Now to do some research on hook up, and throttles.

and I did some serious battery hunting and ending up putting together a 48v - 8 amp hour lipo setup for $105! Which includes one extra pack (just in case, good to have a spare)

I purchased 7 of these:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2650mah-6s1p-222-20c.html

for $15 each (a steal compared to other options I've looked at)

and plan on running 6 packs for testing, 2 series banks of 3 parallel packs.
 
After testing the throttle I have from ebike kit, isolated from the controller, it shows on the signal wire 0.8v at rest and 4.85v at wide open. This seems to be acceptable according to Lyen.

Also I have the LVC cutoff programmed to 44v for the LiPo bank. Does that sound about right to you guys?

I've also decided that I will be soldering many of the controller to hub connections for a good reliable connection. I just don't like the plastic connectors AT ALL.
 
Nice find on the batteries. I just picked up 9 packs, one spare for a 10ahr setup. LVC looks good for 3.66v per cell. Looks like you will be up and running soon.
 
I was actually thinking about doing an 8 pack bank myself, making it just over 10mah, but I don't think it will fit into the frame triangle how I want. Probably should pickup a few more at this rock bottom black friday price. Guess I'll see when they arrive, but this should be good to get me up and running for now. I like the blue lipo because the pack wrap is clear, allowing quick inspection of individual cells.

Did you order the same packs kfong? That will be cool if you did because we can compare builds, as I am still researching how I want to wire these up for easy charging / balancing.
 
Yep, ordered the same packs. For $15, that seems cheap. I did state in the order that I wanted it only if it was in stock and I didn't want a partial order. I have not heard back from them so it might have gone through. If not, I can wait till spring for other deals. I would of preferred 5000 or even 8000mA packs. I had some custom pcb boards made for my next build. I had extra boards made. I will be posting the new design when they arrive, it was meant to work well with the 14i Hyperion chargers. I wanted a setup that I could balance charge without taking it off the bike. It had to be safe since all the packs will be enclosed in a shell. Not sure if they will all fit, but I have several options I can try.

If you have not picked up a charger. I recommend the Hyperion 14i. It will do up to 14S packs. Really well designed and reliable. Larry's RC by Lakeside mall is a place to get one fast. Same price as on the net. For the power supply, get a server supply off of ebay. Super easy to mod and you can get one with 700w output for under $20.
 
I currently have a 6 cell LiPo charger, but I'll be in the market for a 12+ cell soon. Thanks for the info kfong, I usually visit Larry's about once a month.

Batteries are supposed to be here Friday!

Have not been able to do anything on the bike over the past few day, due to work and deciding to remodel my first floor bath with a 10 day deadline!

-Joe
 
I just got my 9 packs from the site you mentioned. I should of bought only 8. Apparently they check every pack before shipping, since every one of them were opened to get access to the leads. They all measure 23volts. I will cycle test them and see how they perform. I'v been busy with bike builds, since the weather has been too crappy for riding. I was out last weekend, but had to spray down the bike due to all the mud collected.
 
Had a chance to unpack and test all mine too, all read exactly 23 volts. I'm a fan of the blue lipo!

If you don't end up usinf your 9th pack, sell it to me than we'll both have 8 :)
 
I'll probably do that once I get them all tested. Working on a custom throttle, but it's taken me all day to design. The first attempt was too long.
 
Sweet build! 8)

Love that frame, gonna be perfect for you.

I'm a little concerned that you're using just a 6 FET controller, but as long as you stay with-in it's limits it will be fine, hopefully not too many steep hills there. :)
 
I went back and forth about the controller, but the 6 FET really is the best match for the hub I am running. I'm limiting current to 22a so everything should work in harmony.
 
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