John in CR
100 TW
Has anyone tried rewinding one of these stators? It looks like there's room for a lot more copper fill to create an extremely powerful motor. Also, how many magnets are needed for a neo rotor?
Fisher and Paykel motors
- Thread starter TylerDurden
- Start date
I *really* wish I could find one of those things around here.
I'll just have to see what the cieling fan motor will do once I get it back from Karma.
I'll just have to see what the cieling fan motor will do once I get it back from Karma.
F&P
100 mW
I have not heard of anyone rewinding them but just reconfiguring them as they are in series from factory and have a high voltage low amp arrangement.
I do have a stripped down stator so i could rewire it and now I might use maybe 8 strands of small wire and wind about say 10 turns and work out the resistance from there.
There is a fair amount of copper as the top of the stator laminate is larger then the centre if that makes sense??.
There are 56 magnets needed (28nth, 28 sth).
The ferrite versions look like they have 14 magnets but these are actually 4 magnets per ferrite lump. Some older magnet rotors used crappy neos but only at about 3mm.
Remember you can buy them complete or just a stator even reconfigured in parallel for cheapish from NZ, but shipping may not make it worth it.
The link below is to Ecoinnovation in new zealand, you can buy three new complete F&P motors for $300 but shipping to the states is around $250, to australia is around $90. Maybe you could elect for slower cheaper shipping.
I will see how many stators I have around and might be able to part with one or two, but shipping still.
http://www.ecoinnovation.co.nz/c-60-kits.aspx
Matt
F&P
I do have a stripped down stator so i could rewire it and now I might use maybe 8 strands of small wire and wind about say 10 turns and work out the resistance from there.
There is a fair amount of copper as the top of the stator laminate is larger then the centre if that makes sense??.
There are 56 magnets needed (28nth, 28 sth).
The ferrite versions look like they have 14 magnets but these are actually 4 magnets per ferrite lump. Some older magnet rotors used crappy neos but only at about 3mm.
Remember you can buy them complete or just a stator even reconfigured in parallel for cheapish from NZ, but shipping may not make it worth it.
The link below is to Ecoinnovation in new zealand, you can buy three new complete F&P motors for $300 but shipping to the states is around $250, to australia is around $90. Maybe you could elect for slower cheaper shipping.
I will see how many stators I have around and might be able to part with one or two, but shipping still.
http://www.ecoinnovation.co.nz/c-60-kits.aspx
Matt
F&P
Oh, I know I could *buy* some, but I need to be able to *find* them, such as discards, before I can afford them. I've already spent far more money than I can really afford on "deals I could not pass up" in the last couple of months, and it's leaving me hungry (literally). I'm still planning on looking around at repair shops and whatnot for scrapped motors, but not expecting to be able to do that for a while yet.
In the future, assuming my economic situation improves, I would probably be able to find a local source of the motors for a reasonable price, if I don't find scrapped ones first.
EDIT (ADDED): I don't have time to work on them, anyway, right now, and anticipate it'll be months before I would, at best. I'm just really liking the way those things look for repurposing.
I've already spent far more money than I can really afford on "deals I could not pass up" in the last couple of months, and it's leaving me hungry (literally). I'm still planning on looking around at repair shops and whatnot for scrapped motors, but not expecting to be able to do that for a while yet.In the future, assuming my economic situation improves, I would probably be able to find a local source of the motors for a reasonable price, if I don't find scrapped ones first.
EDIT (ADDED): I don't have time to work on them, anyway, right now, and anticipate it'll be months before I would, at best.
I'm just really liking the way those things look for repurposing. 
AussieJester
1 TW
If you can find cheap shipping i can get these F&P motors for free Amberwolf...
KiM
KiM
F&P
100 mW
Hi Guys,
That's the way Kim,
I also had a repairer who would drop off all his F&P tubs complete with motórs in my front yard, they are literally everywhere overhere. I moved and lost contact sadly.
So as kim mentioned, I'm sure you could work out a slow cheap shipping method somehow if Kim has a good contact.
Strom: If you have a 80 series (most comman.8mm) I found that putting every coil per phase in parallel with each other works very well. This means cutting evey wire you see, dividing them into groups of say Phase1-Left-side-wire x 14, and Phase1-right-side-wire x 14, and then onto Phase 2 and so on until you end up with 6 groups. you can solder each group onto 6 rings of copper cable as i have done or the same but in only star with no easy delta option, meaning all phase 1, 2 & 3 wires of say the left wires of all coils are joined to a comman ring, as with my motor in pics and video.
Rewiring them completely would not really gain that much more I thought but maybe I'm wrong.
If I was going to do go that way, I would go for about .1 to .2mm x 6 to 8 strands per say wire, and maybe around 6 to 10 windings depending on how may you can fit, remembering to allow for the other 2 phases.
This would be done in series.
??? Any suggestions on my theory, as I already have a stripped down stator free of copper ready to a rewind, as an experiment.
Matt
F&P
That's the way Kim,
I also had a repairer who would drop off all his F&P tubs complete with motórs in my front yard, they are literally everywhere overhere. I moved and lost contact sadly.
So as kim mentioned, I'm sure you could work out a slow cheap shipping method somehow if Kim has a good contact.
Strom: If you have a 80 series (most comman.8mm) I found that putting every coil per phase in parallel with each other works very well. This means cutting evey wire you see, dividing them into groups of say Phase1-Left-side-wire x 14, and Phase1-right-side-wire x 14, and then onto Phase 2 and so on until you end up with 6 groups. you can solder each group onto 6 rings of copper cable as i have done or the same but in only star with no easy delta option, meaning all phase 1, 2 & 3 wires of say the left wires of all coils are joined to a comman ring, as with my motor in pics and video.
Rewiring them completely would not really gain that much more I thought but maybe I'm wrong.
If I was going to do go that way, I would go for about .1 to .2mm x 6 to 8 strands per say wire, and maybe around 6 to 10 windings depending on how may you can fit, remembering to allow for the other 2 phases.
This would be done in series.
??? Any suggestions on my theory, as I already have a stripped down stator free of copper ready to a rewind, as an experiment.
Matt
F&P
I appreciate the offer, but cheap shipping from Australia to Arizona is kind of like the square root of negative 1.AussieJester said:
(an imaginary number)I did a quick check with a few carriers using 30 pounds and 24" x 24" x 24", sending from my address to your area, and I get wildly varying rates:
DHL: $814
USPS: $175
Fedex: $641
UPS: $641
I have a feeling that the USPS quote is probably wrong, since it's so far off of the others. Can't imagine their rates would be that much less for international shipping....
Even at that "low" rate, it is not only more than I could afford, it is more than it is worth to me, at least right now.
AussieJester
1 TW
Dont stress Amber...enoob Thud and myself are working on it buddy they have asked
for the stators only so the weight will be minimal, my mate was meant too be by this arvo but
wasn't able to make it, we are heading to the Boxing Day Drag meet together to watch the Nitro Funny Cars run
so will discuss it with him then, he has told me several times all i need to do is give him the nod when i want them and he will start putting them aside, as F&P mentioned they are everywhere here, by all accounts they are crap machines (the electrics) and are 'binned' when they break in favour (cheaper) to buy new than fix...I actually went too school with the owner of the repair company my mate now works for (he was a grade below me) He actually went on to be a teacher at the school for 10 years before pulling the plug and buying the company in question
... small world it is...
Due to this time of the year though i gather progress will be a lil slower im not sure how long my mates off over christmas will let you fellas know soon as i know though...
KiM
for the stators only so the weight will be minimal, my mate was meant too be by this arvo but
wasn't able to make it, we are heading to the Boxing Day Drag meet together to watch the Nitro Funny Cars run
so will discuss it with him then, he has told me several times all i need to do is give him the nod when i want them and he will start putting them aside, as F&P mentioned they are everywhere here, by all accounts they are crap machines (the electrics) and are 'binned' when they break in favour (cheaper) to buy new than fix...I actually went too school with the owner of the repair company my mate now works for (he was a grade below me) He actually went on to be a teacher at the school for 10 years before pulling the plug and buying the company in question
... small world it is...
Due to this time of the year though i gather progress will be a lil slower im not sure how long my mates off over christmas will let you fellas know soon as i know though...
KiM
liveforphysics
100 TW
amberwolf said:I appreciate the offer, but cheap shipping from Australia to Arizona is kind of like the square root of negative 1.AussieJester said:
I did a quick check with a few carriers using 30 pounds and 24" x 24" x 24", sending from my address to your area, and I get wildly varying rates:
DHL: $814
USPS: $175
Fedex: $641
UPS: $641
I have a feeling that the USPS quote is probably wrong, since it's so far off of the others. Can't imagine their rates would be that much less for international shipping....
Even at that "low" rate, it is not only more than I could afford, it is more than it is worth to me, at least right now.
I ship racecar gear sets and LSD's from Aussieland on a regular basis. Most boxes are about $30. It's generally about $60 in shipping through DHL.
Storm
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2007
- Messages
- 108
See there is way more room for copper, I could stick my finger in there!!
I'm not sure the multi strand vs single makes much difference, would you go larger than 1mm or smaller than .6, I guess it depends on the characteistics required, Am I right saying small wire and more turns = higher KV?
what controller would I use or how would I connect up the 6phase as you commented on above to a three phase controller?
As windmills I think they are probably better parallel but most PM motors I see are wired in series, parrallel gives less resistance(lower heat/higher current), why choose series??
Jeremy Harris
100 MW
Fewer turns = higher Kv, more turns = lower Kv
The only good reason for using multistrand wire (at the switching frequencies a motor like this will run at) is the ease of winding it, you will get more copper on by using a single strand of thick wire, but it gets hard work to wind. Anything over about 1.2mm diameter (18g) wire is hard to wind in a confined space. It may be that the size of the stator on these F&P motors makes winding a bit easier, particularly as the gaps between the stator poles look to be pretty wide.
Jeremy
liveforphysics
100 TW
Jeremy- Do you have any insight for us on what happens as the coil increases radius during winding and the wire moves further from the iron? Does a greater amount of those outer most wrapping layers flux become lost similar to the large(r) amount of end winding flux that becomes lost?
In other words, in a motor with an extreme gap between stator teeth like this example, would the best solution always be to do anything possible to get as high of copper fill percentage in the gaps, or is there a point where the additional resistance of the winding outweighs the flux gained due to the increased distance from the iron? Part of me wants to think most all of the flux in the wires there will get captured reguardless of the radius from the iron, and another part of me thinks the outside flux would have a much greater chance of being lost than used...
Help me understand my friend!
Thanks!
-Luke
PS: Merry Christmas Eve to you.
In other words, in a motor with an extreme gap between stator teeth like this example, would the best solution always be to do anything possible to get as high of copper fill percentage in the gaps, or is there a point where the additional resistance of the winding outweighs the flux gained due to the increased distance from the iron? Part of me wants to think most all of the flux in the wires there will get captured reguardless of the radius from the iron, and another part of me thinks the outside flux would have a much greater chance of being lost than used...
Help me understand my friend!
Thanks!
-Luke
PS: Merry Christmas Eve to you.
F&P
100 mW
Just waiting up for santa to come so I can go to bed, kids.
As for shipping, if ecoinnovation in NZ can ship 3 complete motors to US for $250 then the cheaper quote sounds correct.
You always end up with 6 wires on a 3 phase motor or alternator, as each phase needs to have 2 wires (start and end) and there are 3 phases = 6, but 3 are either connected to other phases for delta or 3 are all joined together for star. In the end, you end up with 3 wires as a standard 3 phase motor or alternator, and most controllers can work with this.
As they are .8mm motors and in series they are no good at voltages below 200V and amps above 5A.
This is why I go for all coils of each phase in parallel to decrease the resistance and increase the current carrying capacity.
This is as done in wind turbines also when using a standard F&P.
The reason I would go for multi strand wire is to get a decent amount of copper on the stator witout having to paralell each coil, as you would go for just series which is much easier to wind etc, especially with smaller gauge wire.
If you used the standard .8m or 1mm wire, you would only gain a bit more copper but still have to go for parallel, if you go for say 4 to 6 strands of maybe .4mm wire, it would give you much more current capacity in series.
Again, the only reason for parallel is for use for wind turbines etc charging a 24 V battery bank or using them as DC motors is that you can push much amps into them and out of them for lower voatge abtttery bank in the range of 24V to 72V.
Eg: Standard .8mm stator with neos = 300V at 200rpm at 4amps in standard series, compared to say 30V at 200rpm at 40Amps.
The wattage is the same.
300V x 4A = 1200Watts
30V x 40A = 1200Watts, and useable with a 48V to 72V battery bank.
Shipping a complete stripped down motor with a semi cut down shaft at 300mm, would only be about 1 cubic ft if that helps.
Re: Question regarding copper away from laminate area. I feel that F&P would have done a lot of research on this and maybe as you mentioned if you add more copper it might just get wasted anyway??
F&P
Matt
As for shipping, if ecoinnovation in NZ can ship 3 complete motors to US for $250 then the cheaper quote sounds correct.
You always end up with 6 wires on a 3 phase motor or alternator, as each phase needs to have 2 wires (start and end) and there are 3 phases = 6, but 3 are either connected to other phases for delta or 3 are all joined together for star. In the end, you end up with 3 wires as a standard 3 phase motor or alternator, and most controllers can work with this.
As they are .8mm motors and in series they are no good at voltages below 200V and amps above 5A.
This is why I go for all coils of each phase in parallel to decrease the resistance and increase the current carrying capacity.
This is as done in wind turbines also when using a standard F&P.
The reason I would go for multi strand wire is to get a decent amount of copper on the stator witout having to paralell each coil, as you would go for just series which is much easier to wind etc, especially with smaller gauge wire.
If you used the standard .8m or 1mm wire, you would only gain a bit more copper but still have to go for parallel, if you go for say 4 to 6 strands of maybe .4mm wire, it would give you much more current capacity in series.
Again, the only reason for parallel is for use for wind turbines etc charging a 24 V battery bank or using them as DC motors is that you can push much amps into them and out of them for lower voatge abtttery bank in the range of 24V to 72V.
Eg: Standard .8mm stator with neos = 300V at 200rpm at 4amps in standard series, compared to say 30V at 200rpm at 40Amps.
The wattage is the same.
300V x 4A = 1200Watts
30V x 40A = 1200Watts, and useable with a 48V to 72V battery bank.
Shipping a complete stripped down motor with a semi cut down shaft at 300mm, would only be about 1 cubic ft if that helps.
Re: Question regarding copper away from laminate area. I feel that F&P would have done a lot of research on this and maybe as you mentioned if you add more copper it might just get wasted anyway??
F&P
Matt
bigmoose
1 MW
The EcoInnovation site said:
" The motors from Whirlpool also go on the Maytag brand of machines and are identical to the F&P Smart Drive parts 60dc series made in the USA by F&P for Whirlpool.
Would this imply that these F&P motors are lurking in Maytag and Whirlpool washers in the USA? I also find this layout interesting to perhaps play with. Would be interesting to find a surplus US source...
Blessed Christmas-eve day to all! It's sure nice having my two college girls home for Christmas...
" The motors from Whirlpool also go on the Maytag brand of machines and are identical to the F&P Smart Drive parts 60dc series made in the USA by F&P for Whirlpool.
Would this imply that these F&P motors are lurking in Maytag and Whirlpool washers in the USA? I also find this layout interesting to perhaps play with. Would be interesting to find a surplus US source...
Blessed Christmas-eve day to all! It's sure nice having my two college girls home for Christmas...
Jeremy Harris
100 MW
Nice to know that this motor is used on other brand name machines; we have Whirlpool machines here, I shall have to dig around and see if they also use these motors.
Luke,
I don't know for sure, as magnetics is not something I'm that clued up on, but I'd guess that the further away from the core a turn is, the less effective it will be at producing concentrated flux in the core. My belief is that the effective annular gap between a turn and the core, caused by the other turns underneath it, will tend to have a higher permeability than the iron of the core, so the flux density contribution from the outermost turns would be less than that from the innermost turns. Whether this has an appreciable impact on the motor performance I don't know, it may be that it's lost in the noise of all the other variables that affect performance. I don't think that the radial position of a turn has any significant effect, although I may be wrong.
If you want the highest possible flux density from that core, then the answer must be to fill the slots with as much copper as possible. Looking at the pictures, it looks like you could get a lot more wire on that motor. One idea worth considering might be to see if there's a way to wind these stators with flat strip, rather than wire. That way it'd be possible to get a lot better fill factor, and it'd concentrate the turns right down next to the iron of the stator, where they'd be most effective.
Jeremy
Merry Christmas to everyone, even those in time zones where it's already close to Christmas Day
liveforphysics said:Jeremy- Do you have any insight for us on what happens as the coil increases radius during winding and the wire moves further from the iron? Does a greater amount of those outer most wrapping layers flux become lost similar to the large(r) amount of end winding flux that becomes lost?
In other words, in a motor with an extreme gap between stator teeth like this example, would the best solution always be to do anything possible to get as high of copper fill percentage in the gaps, or is there a point where the additional resistance of the winding outweighs the flux gained due to the increased distance from the iron? Part of me wants to think most all of the flux in the wires there will get captured reguardless of the radius from the iron, and another part of me thinks the outside flux would have a much greater chance of being lost than used...
Help me understand my friend!
Thanks!
-Luke
PS: Merry Christmas Eve to you.
Luke,
I don't know for sure, as magnetics is not something I'm that clued up on, but I'd guess that the further away from the core a turn is, the less effective it will be at producing concentrated flux in the core. My belief is that the effective annular gap between a turn and the core, caused by the other turns underneath it, will tend to have a higher permeability than the iron of the core, so the flux density contribution from the outermost turns would be less than that from the innermost turns. Whether this has an appreciable impact on the motor performance I don't know, it may be that it's lost in the noise of all the other variables that affect performance. I don't think that the radial position of a turn has any significant effect, although I may be wrong.
If you want the highest possible flux density from that core, then the answer must be to fill the slots with as much copper as possible. Looking at the pictures, it looks like you could get a lot more wire on that motor. One idea worth considering might be to see if there's a way to wind these stators with flat strip, rather than wire. That way it'd be possible to get a lot better fill factor, and it'd concentrate the turns right down next to the iron of the stator, where they'd be most effective.
Jeremy
Merry Christmas to everyone, even those in time zones where it's already close to Christmas Day
enoob
1 kW
amberwolf said:
that does look a bit high . could it be they were quoting you for a pre xmas delivery? i hope so . i never got around to sending you a msg amberwolf. mp on its way i think we may be able to find a way to get one at your door.
liveforphysics said:
Ive got a ton of book marks to sift through to find it but when reading up on windings somewhere or other i came across a paper that talked about "mushrooming" the winding at the end of the stator pole ie: adding more winding at the end closest to the air gap. they talked about how this helped focus the flux at that end.
bigmoose said:
well now im getting my tools out . i have a 2 year old whirlpool washer sitting 7 feet from me as i type this.
i wonder if the wife would make the connection that my bike has a motor and the clothes washer no worky F&p would you know the weight of the stator alone ? and can the shaft be easily removed for shipping ?
i burned up the phone lines yesterday before calling thud to make sure i wasn't ordering ice cubes from my igloo, to no avail. found a few local outlets that carry f&p but everytime i talked about parts i was given an Australian # to call , nice lady but she was flabbergasted that i was in canada looking for washing machine parts from OZ . lol
come the new year when all the techs are sober , back at work and ready to take a call ill hound some of the local repair outfits. not saying im opting out of getting the ones from down under but if this lives up to half its promise ill be going through these like cookies through santa on xmas night.
@enoob; nah, I picked ship date much later than the holidaze just in case it would make a difference, on the ones that had that option. I also chose the size and weight I did to overestimate at least a little, as I would probably want to have the whole rotor/shaft to work with (I'm not so great at making round things that are actually round and centered, even with the lathe).
@bigmoose: Nice to know there *are* washers around here with that kind of motor. So far I must've looked under at least dozens of washers in many places and not seen anything other than induction motors in one flavor or another (though some interesting transmissions that might yield a gearbox!). Someday I might run into the right one, though.
@those wishing to rewind with thicker wire: Those end tabs are plastic, right? Well....since they're not part of the iron of the stator, you can remove them, even if temporarily. Make your windings on a form outside of the motor, so that you can wrap as easily and neatly as you want into a slight cone-shape for max copper in whatever wire size you're after. Then slip it off the form and onto the stator pole, gluing it down if necessary. Repeat for every pole, and voila! Really cool and neat winding you can't do on most motors due to the stator construction!
BTW, I think that if I were to use one of those motors as a direct-drive wheel motor, I'd end up making it a hub motor and setup a customized rim as the rotor. Build a couple of end plates to bolt to the rim for bearings and whatnot, with big center holes on the bearings to allow the wiring thru so I can keep a large solid axle.
Otherwise I'd set it up as a mid-drive running the bike drivetrain like my powerchair motor is now.
@bigmoose: Nice to know there *are* washers around here with that kind of motor. So far I must've looked under at least dozens of washers in many places and not seen anything other than induction motors in one flavor or another (though some interesting transmissions that might yield a gearbox!). Someday I might run into the right one, though.
@those wishing to rewind with thicker wire: Those end tabs are plastic, right? Well....since they're not part of the iron of the stator, you can remove them, even if temporarily. Make your windings on a form outside of the motor, so that you can wrap as easily and neatly as you want into a slight cone-shape for max copper in whatever wire size you're after. Then slip it off the form and onto the stator pole, gluing it down if necessary. Repeat for every pole, and voila! Really cool and neat winding you can't do on most motors due to the stator construction!
BTW, I think that if I were to use one of those motors as a direct-drive wheel motor, I'd end up making it a hub motor and setup a customized rim as the rotor. Build a couple of end plates to bolt to the rim for bearings and whatnot, with big center holes on the bearings to allow the wiring thru so I can keep a large solid axle.
Otherwise I'd set it up as a mid-drive running the bike drivetrain like my powerchair motor is now.
John in CR
100 TW
These are brushless motors, so what is going wrong with them in such abundance?
My attraction is that to me it definitely looks like more than double the copper will fit on those stators. Lots of copper and big diameter sure sounds good to me.
Merry Christmas everyone!
John
My attraction is that to me it definitely looks like more than double the copper will fit on those stators. Lots of copper and big diameter sure sounds good to me.
Merry Christmas everyone!
John
F&P
100 mW
Hi All,
just a few notes.
The stators are about 5.3kg.
The shaft is easily removed or cut down.
The complete motor in the picture below weighs about 8kg with some excess plastic housing (this is the quick method of getting them out of the tubs, a hammer) I then machine the bearing housing down to about the allumiun bearing housing which fits nicely into a section of 70mm x 70mm x 2.5mm steel square tube. I then fill all the gaps with f-glass resin, and use about 4 large short roofing screws with pre-drilled holes to hold it in place. It has never moved.
The entire motor as I mentioned can be pulled apart and the longest thing is the shaft which could be cut down to only protrude out about 2".
That is how I rewire car and truck alts for wind turbines, and takes only about 2hrs. But it is a bit harder with the F&P stator as the top of the stator laminate area is a fair bit larger the inner. The spare stator i have that has the copper removed but is at another place and will get some pics as soon as i get back. But i guess the inner laminate area is about half of that of the top area that you see in the pics. This also means that there is more copper than you guys can probably see in the pics.
PEFORMANCE: The only thing I guarantee is what you have seen in the pics and videos as for performance, and i feel it could be running even better with the 12fet Infineon which I have measured accuratly to be putting out 48Amps at 48V after soldering the shunt a bit. Motor and controller do get a bit hot now after some low speed full thottle runs in the front yard but not as bad once i get some speed up. It is after all hauling a decent load at 90KG for the complete car and me about 70kg. 4 x 18Ah Lead acid batts are the biggest killer in weight, but money.
John in CR wrote:
These are brushless motors, so what is going wrong with them in such abundance?
They made bad motor controllers, an often blew in brown outs.
I have also thought about using flat wire and might even try it now after some suggestions.
Q: As I have reconfigured in parallel to get the Amps up, could i just use heavy flat wire with less turns and leave in series or would you use say equivelent .8mm round cable and simlar turns and then connect all in parallel??
Also: I meausred about .4 Ohm with this motor and the first was only .1 Ohm, but kept on blowing controllers when i was using the 6 fets versions. I have not tried the .1 Ohm motor yet on the modified infineon 12fet controller.
QQ: What is a X5 roughly, I know they vary.
F&P
Matt
just a few notes.
The stators are about 5.3kg.
The shaft is easily removed or cut down.
The complete motor in the picture below weighs about 8kg with some excess plastic housing (this is the quick method of getting them out of the tubs, a hammer) I then machine the bearing housing down to about the allumiun bearing housing which fits nicely into a section of 70mm x 70mm x 2.5mm steel square tube. I then fill all the gaps with f-glass resin, and use about 4 large short roofing screws with pre-drilled holes to hold it in place. It has never moved.
The entire motor as I mentioned can be pulled apart and the longest thing is the shaft which could be cut down to only protrude out about 2".
That is how I rewire car and truck alts for wind turbines, and takes only about 2hrs. But it is a bit harder with the F&P stator as the top of the stator laminate area is a fair bit larger the inner. The spare stator i have that has the copper removed but is at another place and will get some pics as soon as i get back. But i guess the inner laminate area is about half of that of the top area that you see in the pics. This also means that there is more copper than you guys can probably see in the pics.
PEFORMANCE: The only thing I guarantee is what you have seen in the pics and videos as for performance, and i feel it could be running even better with the 12fet Infineon which I have measured accuratly to be putting out 48Amps at 48V after soldering the shunt a bit. Motor and controller do get a bit hot now after some low speed full thottle runs in the front yard but not as bad once i get some speed up. It is after all hauling a decent load at 90KG for the complete car and me about 70kg. 4 x 18Ah Lead acid batts are the biggest killer in weight, but money.
John in CR wrote:
These are brushless motors, so what is going wrong with them in such abundance?
They made bad motor controllers, an often blew in brown outs.
I have also thought about using flat wire and might even try it now after some suggestions.
Q: As I have reconfigured in parallel to get the Amps up, could i just use heavy flat wire with less turns and leave in series or would you use say equivelent .8mm round cable and simlar turns and then connect all in parallel??
Also: I meausred about .4 Ohm with this motor and the first was only .1 Ohm, but kept on blowing controllers when i was using the 6 fets versions. I have not tried the .1 Ohm motor yet on the modified infineon 12fet controller.
QQ: What is a X5 roughly, I know they vary.
F&P
Matt
I'd definitely want to keep the shaft, myself, since it could become the axle for a hubmotor version.F&P said:
Just have to build a custom wheel something like this:
with the F&P in the middle of it.
Ah. Well, so much for that idea.
I wonder if the controller boards are also worth salvaging? I would be interested in seeing a few--I bet they have a lot of parts I could salvage for other controllers.
AussieJester
1 TW
Guyz...As promised i will be speaking with my mate (actually have..2 times today) he will be around this afternoon at 5ish this arvo and we are heading off to Mototplex for the evening of Nitro Funny Car action so will have an answer for you later this evening or first thing Sunday morning on the immediate availability of the F&P motors...
KiM
KiM
enoob
1 kW
yabba dabba doo.
This thread is great. kim i thank you and your friend for your efforts and look forward to having fun with these. i feel like adding that fun is the operative word here. no pressure bro . im in this for the story and the possibility's , dont let it turn into work or stress about it. hobby bro hobby.
now im gonnna log out and surf a little more as a few drinky's with the fam and the rum on my right are gonna start talking soon .
noob out
This thread is great. kim i thank you and your friend for your efforts and look forward to having fun with these. i feel like adding that fun is the operative word here. no pressure bro . im in this for the story and the possibility's , dont let it turn into work or stress about it. hobby bro hobby.
now im gonnna log out and surf a little more as a few drinky's with the fam and the rum on my right are gonna start talking soon .
noob out
AussieJester
1 TW
No worries enoob ... i have about 1.5 hours to wait and mate will be here, hes taking his missus to see Avtar at the cinema (yes i offered to rip him a copy so he could watch it at home with her and we could leave earlier but she wouldnt buy it LOL) OOPZ its 3pm Beer O'Clock!!!! Grabzin me some olives cheese and Italian sausage and having a brew now get meself primed for the event, piss there is frightfully expensive and theres no BYO at all allowed...
KiM
EDIT: OK gents, had a chat to my mate last night hes off work for the next two weeks when hes back he will check the yard for whats there in the way of F&P machines any there he will drop up too me too pull the motors from. He couldnt be sure what was in the yard at present so will have to sit tight for a couple of weeks boyz..
KiM
EDIT: OK gents, had a chat to my mate last night hes off work for the next two weeks when hes back he will check the yard for whats there in the way of F&P machines any there he will drop up too me too pull the motors from. He couldnt be sure what was in the yard at present so will have to sit tight for a couple of weeks boyz..
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