Full susp. conversion, cur/volt controlled throttle!

greg_p

100 mW
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
38
Location
Valbonne, France
Hello all,

I'm quite new as member of ES but I am reading it since a bit - summer 2014, and commuting with it. My office was 4km through sofia antipolis (south east of france, Alpes maritime, lots of hills)...
I have a converted ebike using a Giant VT2 here:
http://www.gearreview.com/giant_vt.php
169d1206479149-giant-vt-2-nur-700-km-top-zustand-1.jpg


And here is what I made of... (photos are 1.5 yo)


It's been actually the worst bike to convert to... (without ignoring it was my first converted e bike :) ).
I have bought a 9C motor in 2806, a very Chinese 29amp controller and some controls, and he oui, a good lifepo4 60v 10ah based on 38120 cells, and the baby is 235x160x170 (mm).
The problem was: where do I put this batt?
I added a strong saddle platine with a soft bag where the baby fits. The rack is rated at 10kg, and the battery is not so far (7.5kg may be).

And some build logs-like photos:
the bar is open!


The small place inside the D.


Motor, left side:

right side


And the lumenator - yes - These guys at grin are really doing good things!


As many of you, I experienced trouble when:
-fitting the new motor wheel with disk brakes. Motor are now taking disk into account, but it wasn't the case in 2014, so I sanded the rear calliper and mounted it, and the caliper finish to sand itself on the motor :shock: :D . He's been silent since a while now. I broke a spoke tightening it, which also started to make a squizzing noise, that was stronger while braking, but still going well - if we can say.

I very fast blew up the old tires with the torque and speed of the bike in the dusty tracks to go to work, which makes me take the larger tires, stronger air tubes, and filled with air and sealant to avoid flat tires... When it's the rear one that goes flat, it's not good at all: I don't commute with my 24 wrench.

So I have been pleased although I was driving it on flat road, because almost 9kg on the very rear give very strange feel past 30km/h - especially when grip is light. The Cycle analyst showed 1.8kw max pulling strong but not too fast, I don't go over 50km/h but don't really need it in comutting times. Even at 40km/h, I was frightening the mama's that walk the small dogs in the nature near the "golf de Mougins" at 8 a.m, going out of dusty curves at that speed... Fairly "awakening" activity that deserved a rest at office.

Then a month ago, the original fork just finished to serve... It was a manitou 90-120, not more available, and seals are hard to get here in France, and I wasn't very pleased with it, especially with violent stuttering when hard braking. I discover that the damper oil was missing half level, and on the spring side, the link between the 2 springs system that makes the variable setting was loose and almost impossible to repair. So I went to change it for something newer and working.

What an error... :evil:

I am a diy-one that love to over-spending times on non-existing issue (before to create it :D).

I bought a rockshox tk30 gold, not so expensive, and sold in a 100mm configuration, I opened it to remove the spacer that prevent full travel (120mm), and finally fit it, and dissassembling the full bike for a check.

And the question when again on the table: where to place this battery for a bit of fun... I would like to go farther, quicker with this extremely good bike (as soon as you don't put a battery on it).

That is the reason I come to you.

[*]I have seen oatnet solution that consist in fitting the battery in a hard case and fixing it to the headtubes of the fork, but I don't have a dual clamp. I have a 120mm single clamp, and fitting a 200mm dualclamp would work but raise the front very high (+8cm). Fork height goes from 475mm to 568 with common dual clamp (sram boxxer, dnm usd8). Fitting on the current fork, I have a 16cm dead between the bar and the lower BB, I can't fit a pelicase 1300 - that would be a great home for the battery. Would the 200mm dual clamp fork fit on this bike, without changing too much the balance - and how it would change it, especially with a heavy battery on the head, this is going into the unknown...

[*]I have explored another solution that would consist in splitting the 20s battery into 2x10s smaller one, buying 2 bms, may be buying 4 more celles to reach 72V (and a 40 or 60amp controller :D), but I am a busy man with work and children, and it will take me some time to desolder the BMS and create another, I have very few room to work on it, and I am not sure to correctly place the obtained 2 batteries (size 240x80x170). One can fit on the high tube, but I have no place in the small D (controller fits, but not much more), and under the lower tube, there is too few clearance with the tire, pedals and front gear. I can get some times to do it, but it has to be worthy.

[*]I am exploring to fit the whole batt over the main tube. It looks bulky and doesn't look very good, but it is better that on the rack, but still I have not found a way to secure it. The tube has an oval shape and I will not find a clamp that would fit.

So yes, I come with an history and questions on how would you guys do at my place, without investing too much money in a vector (I would love to) and another great frame...

Any comment and suggestion on how to manage the battery would be great!

Edit: actually I posted this thread in the wrong place. If a admin pass by here, could you relocate it on ebike section? Thx!
 
After intense thinking, I will be testing a peli-like case fixed on top frame bar. I found one that is just under the peli 1300 but battery fit inside. It will be 17cm between my legs, so not too bad and will not bother me pedaling...
valise-hprc-2250e-noire-vide.jpg
.
I will fixed it on a rectangle section tube that attached from higher part of the top BB case and saddle tube. I will make a hole in the case and put either big washer or reinforcement inside, there will be some place in this dimension (1cm) to help. 1 big bolt may be enough for all day stuff as main effort is the weight. But in case of fall, we may need more...
 
Your case idea can be a good one. At some point, it becomes one of the few good ways to do it, if you can't split the pack. If you can split the pack, then you could carry half on a rear rack, half on a bag or box on the handlebars.

I did a handle bar carry a bit easier by swapping the bars for bmx type bars. The crossbar gave me a place to mount a metal angle to support a bag.P7050023.JPG

I was not real happy with carrying more than 8 pounds in the front bag. And your battery is heavier I think. I do like the ride with 8 pounds on the rear, and 4 pounds on the front bag.

The usual method for carrying a battery on a bike like yours is two bags or boxes, like saddlebags, on the top tube. You'd have to re engineer your battery for that. For now, the box on top is a good compromise.
 
Good idea actually. I was thinking to add some cells to go to 24s, and 4 headway cells could fit in such a way. It will definitely charges the front of the bike.
My current 20s battery is over 15 pounds, so it's better to have it centered and lowered in a second wish.
By the way, didn't you have an issue with the diameter? BMX bars are usually 1' or even less although all controls for ebike are 1.5.
 
Shims fix the diameter. I just cut some aluminum sheet that was just the right thickness. About 1mm stuff
 
Ok, good.
I think I will put the main 20s battery in the box I order and waiting to receive, and may an additional 4s 10ah in a smaller box on the front. 4s is just 8x8x13 cm, may be 2kg so I don't think it will modify the balance too much - and it would give extra power and speed.
 
If you plan on riding daily like I do, then dual suspension is a must.

Trust me, it makes a world of difference on your bike having suspension as opposed to not having it. It helps with the longevity of the bike in my opinion.
 
Suspension can definitely make a wheel last longer, and improve comfort a lot if you have lower back pain.

But for pure street use, I'm finding my back tolerates it fine if the bike is a longtail. Less wheel trouble too, when the frame can rock when it needs to, without lifting your ass.
 
Actually I'm thinking to even sell my current life battery which is far too big and buy some good HK lipo like these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74100__MultiStar_High_Capacity_6S_12000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_EU_Warehouse_.html

3 of them are actually easier to place, bigger aH, 3kg less than my gigantic lifepo4.

To show this, here is the (nude) bike and almost nude battery.







DO you know if a lifepo4 are selling well? This has roughly 50 charges....
 
Making this topic alive a little... :D

I never received the case I ordered, I think the deliverer wasn't a good man. I am to open a ticket.
And finally I changed my mind. Actually I found this from thule:
http://www.thule.com/fr-fr/fr/products/sport-and-travel-bags/bike-bags-and-racks/racks/thule-pack-n-pedal-tour-rack-_-pp_100016

364233_sized_750x800.jpg


and this:

441659_sized_750x800.jpg


I will be easily able to locate the battery on the from fork. It will be a part of unsprung load, which isn't ideal but I think better that in the far rear.

Then I get interested into getting a boost. Firstly I thought to add lifepo4 headway cells, but no provider has them in europe, and bmsbattery... how to say ... I preffer to give a chance on 4s big lipo battery.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65272__Multistar_High_Capacity_4S_10000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_EU_Warehouse_.html
In serie with my battery, same capacity (but discharge different).
I will locate it in a frame bag beside from the controller, with a custom Y serial cable (PP45 and XT90). I will get a battery with min 73V (life 2.5V/cell and lipo 3.3/cell), typical 78.8 (life 3.2/c and lipo 3.7/c) max 89.8V (life 3.65 and lipo 4.2). I'm not far from the 100V. I studied the 6S but I would be forced to reduce loading voltage - which isn't that bad, and will never count on regen braking.
I am close to receive the 12fet 4110 em3ev controller and will progress on this. If anyone has a hint on configuring this controller for just less than 100V, I'm open. I played a bit with software but it looks like LVC doesn't raise over 66.5V. This is good for 4s added lipo, not 6s.
 
Uh, in my opinion, going 40 mph with that much weight on the front is going to be real fun.

I'm pretty comfy with 8 pounds up there, no more. That big hunk of headways needs to be split in half, then put each half in a pannier, preferably a cargo bikes panniers.
 
Yes but I am not too confident in splitting the battery in 2, I have 2 BMS to buy and cable... And the battery is to sell today, I would be pleased to take 3x6s lipos instead; less bulky, lighter and can be put into small frame bags.
It's just a solution which I can live with today. If this is really too challenging to drive (more than 9kg in the far rear saddle rack?), I will look for something else.
I am especially thinking to emergency braking, where the battery will help raising the rear and reduce braking power.
 
I received em3ev 12fet 4110 based infineon controller yesterday. Very nice quality, big cables!
After mail exchange with Paul and em3ev team, it's more reasonnable to use only 4s lipo in addition to the pack, and we are already in the very high applicable voltage. Regen voltage is 90V which isn't bad at all.




I Installed the twisted throttle and see that actually it will not fit with rear dérailleur :(. I will try to run with read dérailleur mounted reverse on the right handle to see if it ok, keeping the front derailleur connected loose, not usable. I may try to buy a gripshift that I may put on the left handle (so 2 dérailleur command on the left). I could keep "all electric" and fix the derailleur, but in case of empty battery, I will not be able to move... It's a bike after all.

I connected all cable, do a dry run with the rear wheel in the air, all seems to work flawlessly, even the regen is tested also it's almost stopping the wheel.

I openned the cycle analyst (2.23) and disconnected the additional speed sensor (it was a DPS), and connected the yellow wire from the 6pins CA cable so as to use the hall sensor. It needs the setting to be changed from 1 to 23 pairs in the advanced setting menu.

Next steps,
- I will received the front carrier today or tomorrow and try to place the battery well.
- order the 4s lipo and some fixtures
- need dry runs to check controller settings
- I looked into CA user manuel and see that using it to override throttle and use it as current throttle. I am interested, but it needs to connect throttle to CA from inside (feasible) and disconnect throttle cable to the controller.
 
Build log continue...

The front carrier is received, very good quality and quite strong. Here is mounted with appropriate bag and the battery inside:
28341420160317095301.jpg


Here you can see the bike with it:
41351320160317095234.jpg


Handling with no speed, we can clearly feel an inertie turning the bar on the front, and as the fork has an angle with vertical and the weight is not on the axe and it tends to accentuate the turning force, but not so much. Need to see while rolling, if it could potentially make it unstable. I'm not a fan of no-hand biking but it could be useful in some rare conditions.

I also finished the current-control conversion of the accelerator and cycle analyst:
41630120160317095323.jpg


21786720160317095345.jpg


And the em3ev controller received and check. I placed it this morning with all the cables.
22823420160317095314.jpg


I'm waiting another front frame double bag that will be placed on the front high tube attached to the front BB, it will cover all the cables and will look less "unfinished".
I still need to drive a bit with it.

I also tried to configure the CA 2.3 in current mode. Actually I have done a basic configuration, but it's needs to fine tune parameters for intAgain, intSgain, and voltage parameters, and it has to be done while driving, because as it's not speed limitating, a very reduced current is able to drive the motor as max speed, thus we can't really see if it's good. Anyway basic parameters are not done for a 2kw bike...
 
Greg_P

In one of your pictures , I see the seatpost mounted , rear pannier rack,

It is too high up on your seat post.

Put it down as far as it will go , while compressing your rear suspension as far as you can, ( until it bottom outs )
If you find that it will hit your disc brake caliper, then spread it out so that when the suspension is compressed that the inside of the rack will go to the outside of the disc brake caliper.

Keep in mind that seat post mounted racks can only carry a small amount of weight.
 
Thanks for the tip, I just kept the seat post and rack mounted as single piece and didn't set it correctly for blind mount. I will surely fix it.
I have been running a 8kg battery on this rack for 8 monthes now and it's still in one piece, but I admit that the weight distribution was awful, it's why I am working on put in forward.

Yesterday evening, I tried a bag on the front carrier with water bottle inside to mimic a battery weight on it, on the side of the carrier. We can barely feel a feedback on the bar, just some more inertia... So this time I decided to split the battery in 2 10s (at least) and put each of them on a side bag of the carrier.

This morning, some more CA2 parameter testing and setting, plus a commute travel (4 km through steep hills) to check the full setup, 35amp limited.
- even difficult to set up, ampere mode accelerator is great, you feel each of them and the regulated output is good. I need more reactivity on roundabout stops but overall feeling is good.
- regen braking is great. It is set at 90v and over 30km/h is gives a really strong brake force, I saw 10 to 12amp, it is cool. Now the controller is set up to regen passed 25km/h and stop it at 20, that is not good. I prefer to trigger it manually - I have a button.
 
Current controlled throttle is really great. Not only you can more easily measure "with your wrist" how much power you put into the rear wheel, but also you can safely use the full potential of your battery.
I have a CA 2.3 with current control modification. My battery is a lifepo4 20s, bottom line is 50V min, 64V typical, 73V max. Yesterday I thought I had a cumulative 9.5Ah with last 2Ah with some regen, but it was still usable and I didn't really realized I had drained this much energy, as I could still pump up 5 to 10 amp. the CA was set to 10 amp max, which result is really 8.5A with the regulation. With this, there is no "rush" happening like we actually see on infineon controller, but the CA regulates it normally. I can set it a 50Amp and it will let my pump 45 at the beginning, which is great, but not suitable when the battery is low.
This is really good, because when battery is really low on electrons, when you ask for power, the voltage drops very rapidly and you can have BMS cut to protect battery, which was arriving when my battery was at 8Ah drained. With this setup, the CA:
-smoothly limits throttle when you arrive close to max amps
-smoothly limits throttle when you arrive close (2V) from low voltage max.
--> this way you can still have a good power assistance at low battery.
Yesterday I put 9.8Ah back in the battery before BMS kicks in, this is great.

What is also great is the "overdrive" 115 and 120% on the em3EV controller. Also Paul/Joseph advised me not to use it, I can still use it with current limited by the CA, and can still go over the 47km/h max... I went between 53 ans 55 :D.

I would advise every one to go with a current AND voltage controlled setup. This is the best way to take full benefit of your battery without destructive behaviour, like the one that leads to BMS cut. You can do it with some rework with a CAV2.3, for sure it's easier with CAV3. I would miss a knob to have the current setting easily available, but how it is today is good a satisfying.
 
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