man, it's been a long time.
shoulder is MUCH better. shoveling snow/ice has helped with strength and i'm finally getting more range of motion. my pt therapist said it was the worst frozen shoulder he'd seen, which is hard to believe, but there it is. i don't see how it could be the worst if it was only two months but whatever. i'm on the mend.
bike's been a total PIA. ;-(
i knew it was only a matter of time but the rear studded tire finally got a flat. luckily while at home trying to pump it up. i never want to see a presta valve again.
i put the hookworms back on and they feel soooo much better than the 1.75" studs. those felt precarious. too thin. and i f'd up and pumped up the rear shock too much when i had the rear triangle apart - only way to pump it - and now the rear wheel chatters around any turn with the slightest bump. just have to avoid the ice, which there's still plenty of, but hopefully no more coming.
what else? the forks leaking oil - in a small puddle on the living room floor when i had the bike inside and upside down.
and salt everywhere. i don't even care. i'm so fed up.
thanks for the tip on heliguy. i should definitely ship my frames out there. IF i keep on running the dh comps. i'm almost ready to chuck 'em. all my half ass stuff has come apart.
the ebrake broke a while ago - but that's just as well, since my motor runs too hot now even w/o regen.
it's getting pretty annoying taking the battery off twice a day just to bring up to my desk/or inside my house to charge (and keep warm).
and the bms was acting up. i had this problem a lot last year w/ the mini-e, but i find that below freezing, the BAh setting drops from my normal 11.6Ah capacity setting to 0.00.
one super cold day, it happened over and over again, every time i hit the throttle. i tried to pull kids on the sled and that's the worst. seems to happen when pulling major current. i even rode w/ the Battery Setup screen on to watch and saw it and watched it drop suddenly to 0.00, but it was way to cold to take a video. finally i figured out i could just disable the bms to run it. kinda surprised others haven't noticed that. i thought there was something about a heated display - that somehow the display is related, not the controller, cause it was plenty warm. i actually left my battery warmer on the display for an hour and then was able to ride w/o problem.
i was using the battery warmer and charger on a timer, set to turn on at like 5AM and charge/warm right before work, but it started getting just too cold i thought.
luckily my battery has been solid. knock knock. after replacing that 4s pack, the replacement have fit in perfectly balanced w/ the other cells, so that's a relief.
naw, i keep thinking once spring rolls around i get up the road bike again, just to get the exercise and be free of the ebike hassles. but the roads around horrific, so i'm not looking forward to the ass pounding.
maybe i should rig up the other strommer. or get another frame, but then i'll have to go thru getting all the parts again... new forks, etc.
not sure if my 26" psycho rim can make it till spring. i've been keeping an eye on the weld crack and it's opening a bit.
obviously i'm avoiding curb jumps etc, and i'm wondering how it will fail. anyone know? i'm guessing it will separate, the wheel will widen, the sharp edges pop the tire and the wheel will rub the inside of the frame... at worst it'll open sideways and an edge will catch the triangle and stop suddenly and cause it to skid along. i just hope i'm holding on tight enough, but the tire skids so much more than the MC wheel. anyway..
i should probably start buying stuff but am so damn busy and just not in the mood. ah well. it's a february kind of feeling...
) and it's been running fine, no grinding. and surprisingly damn fast - can't remember the winding, maybe the hs3580? can't remember. no wonder it got so heat saturated in the snow last year pulling kids.. 
