GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[dbaker]

Stalking cherry blossoms?

 

[GCinDC]

back to the bike.

was making such good progress... but the wheel rubbed axel's frame. the spoke wrench was slipping and a nipple broke, so had to be replaced:

so apart it came:

and when i yanked the wheel off, i found a lot more GALVANIC CORROSION than i expected, even after soap and water and a rinse:

i replaced the broken nipple (not the spoke) and when i had the wheel in the stand, the wires got snagged and after freeing them, the wheel no longer rotated freely! those phase wires finally shorted! i can't believe they lasted as long as they did:

so doing axel a solid here:

and do you remember that i promised when i opened this motor, i'd show you whatever sand and grit was in there?

clean freaks will no doubt hate it, but to me this is nothing - hasn't harmed the motor so far - and i've not hesitated to go through lots of sand and dirt with it:

so lots more work to do....

but back to the fun stuff:

when i went back this morning with the bike and my waterproof gear, it must have been drained!

but i went for another sanity ride at lunchtime, and the water was back up! it must be rising with the tide!

i might have a vid here in a minute for ya...

 

[GCinDC]

here ya go:
[youtube]wu2-3XZdRXk[/youtube]

 

[full-throttle]

Couldn't get a better thumbnail. Unreal!

 

[cal3thousand]

Jesus!

 

[GCinDC]

phase wire transplant complete. so glad i have miles of different sized shrink tubing from HK...

and glad i could reuse the fabric tubing. that stuff is pretty tought. might need to enlarge slot. will see...

 

[sardini]

Very good job! , Now you need to clean and paint this baby!

 

[dbaker]

So much easier than a 9C

 

[nicobie]

Did you notice the 12 x 5 written on the stator? That means it is a 3548 (which is same as a 3580) and is the reason it runs hot.

Good thing you have a temp gauge!

 

[Allex]

How hot do you run it?

 

[GCinDC]

Did you notice the 12 x 5 written on the stator? That means it is a 3548 (which is same as a 3580) and is the reason it runs hot.

fast and hot. that explains a lot. thank you so much for pointing it out. i hadn't even noticed!

How hot do you run it?

i had miniE configured to stop drawing current above 315F i think.

 

[GCinDC]

nothing against quadcopters, but this is pretty cool: http://vimeo.com/90312869

bummed it requires 6 gopros tho!

edit: how's the frames are compiled/edited:

 

[GCinDC]

Now you need to clean and paint this baby!

no paint, boeshield T9. it cleaned up so nicely cause it had a good coat already. didn't even need a pressure washer. magnets even felt waxy still!

when it's nice and dry, i'll use some gorilla tape to pull off any iron filings that may have been attracted by the magnets.

compare that to this hs3540 that i ran through the salt for a month or two with the sidecovers on. the salt water wicked in through the wires/wireslot as the motor cooled and got trapped. so if you didn't vent your sidecovers and road in saltwater, the inside of your motor could look like this:

more of those pics here.

and here's how i've coerced the wires to fit the slot. i'll keep this on until the side cover is almost all the way on, and only then take it off.

hub motor lovin.

 

[GCinDC]

motor cleaned, protected w/ boeshield. fixed a number of spokes, the wobble.

not so nice corrosion under the washer. sprayed boeshield on inside and outside of nipple, so hopefully it will stop the corrosion.

makeshift disc spacer:

time to whip up a frame bag:

 

[Axel]

Fantastic Greg !!
what a nice bike
Thank you so much

 

[dan974]

Greg, in case it can help galva small pieces (washers) on stainless steel make natural electrolyte, can happen the other way, stainless screws with galva plates in corrosive environnement,
I don't know which materials are nipples, washers, rim, but if you wanna stop the electrolyte you must isolate galvanized steel and stainless with plastic or rubber spacer... It a classic mistake in metallic, buildings works

 

[madin88]

did you ride on the salted streets in winter?
mostly any sorts of Al do not like this and normal steel too..

 

[GCinDC]

did you ride on the salted streets in winter?

all winter. constant problem..

two worm clamps will hold the box in place. marking for the seat tube clamp:

quick slice w/ dremel above the lipos!:

and the front under the controller, prying the slot apart to make room for clamp. let's just hope the controller stays cool enough in there... if not out it comes. (or down the current)

waterproofing this time...

bag design makes access maintenance easy. fiberglass box can't open like this..

stuffing wires:

not my fence. lol. pretty clean stealthy build if i do say so.

note how the brake/shift lines travel through pack - they're too short to snake around, but w/ velcro flap door, no problem...

charging:

smoke came out of bms battery charger...

fairly light w/o all the accessories!

um, axel, you wanna go for a ride?

bring your bms batt power cord. i can't imagine it's wired differently than mine, but you never know.

 

[dbaker]

Amazing how much the metal stud with fabric cover system has evolved! Sure looks good! Do you really need 2 spoke washers? Looks like the oval one is not necessary.

 

[GCinDC]

Amazing how much the metal stud with fabric cover system has evolved! Sure looks good!

yeah, i've tried other ways but keep coming back. so easy, solid and flexible.

Do you really need 2 spoke washers? Looks like the oval one is not necessary.

lol, those were yours! do you remember?

i reached out to JRH for a new set of nipples w/ washers but he only makes them for his wheel builds now.

couple a shots from the week. the salt and cold weather took a toll on last year's new pavement..
[youtube]PgKXoNi9QlE[/youtube]

 

[dbaker]

I am surprised JRH would not support part replacement since those parts did come from him. Is this the second or third motor for that rim?

Monster potholes! My car objects just in the short ride to Bethesda and back to pick up Sam from school. Your Thud bike will like them much more than the heavy hub

 

[GCinDC]

I am surprised JRH would not support part replacement since those parts did come from him. Is this the second or third motor for that rim?

washers not from him. from you. i did get new spokes/washers from him for my h40 wheel.

but those washers were originally on your 9C/MC wheel (which is probably in the same spot in your basement, minus the wheel?)

but i sheered the sidecover threaded disc mount and reused the rim/spokes/nipples/washers on a new hs3540...

i could be wrong, but that's how i recall it..

 

[GCinDC]

saw signs of this last week and got another 7sp 11t freewheel coming soon. hope i don't have an electrical problem before it does.
[youtube]Oyuz5dMbBDA[/youtube]

 

[sardini]

Hahaha how that happened?

 

[GCinDC]

Hahaha how that happened?

old freewheel + short chain + oversized front chainring + salt in dc winter = freewheel that's a little too free :lol:

going nuts trying to set up variable regen again...

i could have sworn i used one of these halls successfully in the summer, and am trying again w/ one but no love.

testing hall sensor via ebike tester (5.21V):

lowest voltage i found was 3.95V which would probably be fine for a range...

but when connected the the throttle/regen circuit, the max voltage range was only .1V:

and that matches what i've seen when using the adaptto brake limit callibration - the needle just moves a millimeter or so.

and since andrey said i might need a hall sensor w/ a lower range (to match throttle/regen voltage i assume), it made me wonder how my hall sensors would react to higher voltage. so here it is on 9V:

and check out the range when the magnet is closer:

so, either i need to find lower voltage halls (help anyone?) or i'm going to give up on variable regen and try on/off w/ either my throttle button ( ) or a two wire ebrake sensor (reed switch?)...