Geared hub motor info please....

[Ykick]

Bafang BPM’s

Silver:
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2012-59-Q25J.1A2QG

Black:
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2013-9M-D4CE.9DMJF

And the SWXH:

http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2011-7X-M6KK.52SRH

Any words of wisdom regarding BPM motors?

Is the SWXH comparable to Q100/128 mini motors?

It would appear BMS Battery radically revamped shipping charges/estimates - quoted $175 to ship a BPM2. Um, no thanks.

So I looked into Elifebike which seems to be $60-$100 to USA per single unlaced motor. But the options on their shipping page seems to say “in China” does that mean delivered in China or is it a language thing?

Thanks...

 

[BikeFanatic]

Hi Ykick,

I recently got into geared motors and I have two or three of the ones you linked to. Mostly I rode C-Lyte DD and 9C DD motors up until recently.
I love the geared motors now because I feel they are much easier to pedal.

My favorite geared motor, and close to my DD 9C (2807) performance, is the BPM code ten AKA BPM (16)10 also says BPM36v500W
I saw you had a link to that motor in silver.
the code ten I have goes max speed 24.5 MPH on 12 series LIPO- Hills are no problem either, at least the small hills I have here in the city.
It does 30 MPH on 14 series. I run it on a 35 amp controller On a 26 inch wheels MTN bike.

then i have the rear motor BPM code 13 ---BPM 48V 500W 26(13)
THIS ONE top speed is 21 mph on 12 series- 26 inch wheel mountain bike

MY rear motor BPM unlaced weighed 10 pounds 7 oz with freewheel.

I also have a rear motor swx little bafang says 36 swx01-250w this light motor weighs 6 LBS ten OZ naked.
Max speed on 12 series 19 mph (must be a slow wind, bought it used from a member here, so unknown wind).
mounted on 26 inch wheel mountain bike

Lastly I have a Tongxin I got from Grin on clearance rack.
It says Outrider motor 36V 260 RPM- it weighs 5.5 lbs unlaced. front motor.
Max speed on 12 series LIPO is 19 MPH on 20 inch folder bike.
maybe that is comparable to a cute , not sure though just a guess.
Let me know if you need any other info on these motors. I bought them all used so I can not advise on the BMS battery Ebike life vendors.

 

[Ykick]

Great info BF, thanks! Under 40lb bikes that can actually be pedaled 'something to not be missed persuing this habit.

I'm learning the ropes with Q128H and Q100C motors. Shoving 800-900W on 60-67V over about 1000 mile started having some clutch issues with the Q128H. But upon easy disassembly the motor winding and gears have not been stressed although the clutch drum exhibited a little bluing from heat and the little springs that supposedly help the cylinders engage were bit deformed and chewed up creating hit or miss engagement.

Basically cleaned it up, left the springs out and put it back together with very little grease/oil. At first it 'was still chattering although eventually engaging and after only a few miles it's working quite well. I might look around for some quality stiff springs but if it keeps working like it is now there's no need for the springs.

Anyway, that was sort of the impetus of this thread because I was thinking it might be time for a different motor. Luckily, now it's not a rush project. I still wanna look into the Bafangs and I appreciate the personal experiences.

 

[motomech]

Just some quick thoughts on MIni's;
I tend to think of mini's in two sizes, the 1.9 Kg. Cute and the 2.3 Kg. MXUS, SWXH, Outrider, etc.
The Q100 is ok if you are serious about pedaling.
My MXUS is powerful enough to be fun when I want to use motor alone.
The Cute is inexpensive and usually easier to order.
The MXUS costs more, but has a better wheel.
I like to use 12S Lipo, 17 to 18 A on the Q100's, 18 to 20 A on the MXUS.
I got away from using the fancy(LCD display)controllers, as they didn't mate well with 12S(45V).
Elifebike has a couple 9-FET controllers that I like for mini's. One 17A, and the other 19A.
They have a LVC of 42V which is perfect for 12S. If I need a small 6-FET controller, I bite the bullet and use a Grin/Infineon (20A, no LVC).
The Cute comes with a cassette mount (CST model), but is not available in a mid-wind 260 rpm.
In general, the 260 wind is the best compromise.
Frt. mounting mini's is very easy, where as rear mounts can be fussy, but not overly difficult.
I think a frt. mount, mid-wind mini offers low-cost, but acceptable performance on 44V to 48V.

 

[d8veh]

I emailed BMSB about their increased shipping charges. I didn't get a reply, but I noticed now they have gone right down again, so they remain a competitive option.

Which motor to get depends on exactly what you want to achieve. They're all pretty good these days. Just when I was going to go back to a BPM, I've fallen in love with my Xiongda. The Xiongda kit is very cheap for what you get (sinewave controller and LCD3). The PAS is instant start and stop too, which makes it very convenient to use without brake switches if you have hydraulic brakes. Also, it's got to be the quietest geared hub-motor I've used now that it's run in. The motor has enough power to cruise at about 18 to 20 mph on the flat with light pedalling, but it has enough torque to get you up the steepest hills. That's something you can't do with any of the light-weight single-speed motors. Only the bigger motors like the BPM and MAC can match it in getting you up the steepest hills, but then you need a powerful battery and controller, so your weight goes up.

If hill-climbing isn't an issue, or maybe you just want light-weight high-speed, then you choose according to weight. Bafang will probably be best because they're more highly developed and have better quality controls due to the larger production volumes.

 

[Ykick]

Good "geared" stuff, thanks all...

'having a good time with the Q100C & Q128H rears and even gotta Q128 front off a forum member a while back that's come in handy across a couple bikes.

As mentioned my "base" battery pack is 16S RC Lipo for about 60-67V on Lyen 6FET 3077 sensor controllers. The Q128H sees full pack voltage turning 700c wheel limited to 900W and other than the recent clutch issue has been a great performer. Q100C 328 RPM in 20" speed's turned down to between 60-70% on 600W peak. Not many miles on that setup yet but I read all the stuff you folks post about these little guys, thank you!

I guess Lyen controllers get a bad rap for these little motors but using sensors seems to not be an issue and I have the ability to run my chosen battery pack format/voltage, adjust speed and program current limits. That's why I've stayed away from the BMS controllers and similar.

It was enlightening to open the Q128H and tear it down to the motor armature. Nothing's been hot on the electrical side, gears looked factory fresh and other than those stupid clutch springs it's back in service. Considering what I qualified inside it certainly can be turned up a few more Watts.

I love the idea of those Xiongda 2 speed motors but can Infineon controllers handle the shifting? I would guess so with the right configuration?

Forgive my rambling but thanks again for the "enlightenment" I realize it's probably repeating what many of you have already posted before but having it laid out here is very helpful for me. Much appreciated....

 

[Alan B]

The Xiongda shifts by reversing the motor, so if you have the reverse input to the controller wired it should work.

 

[docnjoj]

With the newest controllers the Xiongda 2 speeds work fine. I usually stay in high gear, even for take off on level ground. The low gear is quite slow (around 7-8 mph @36 volts) but it goes up very steep hills at low watts. I am having difficulty with clanging noise in high gear after about 600 miles, but the motor still runs fine. I will have to open it to find the problem. 48 volts is probably the max you should run with this motor.
otherDoc