GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

_Tommy_ said:
file.php

Nice looking setup. If you want to keep the motor inside of the frame triangle the main thing I would change would be to lower the jackshaft closer to the BB. Assuming that you are running a primary belt drive as shown in your model it's better to have more distance between the pulleys. Part of what's wrong with the stock GNG arrangement is that the pulleys are too close together. That opens the belt angle and disengages teeth in the small driver pulley.
 
skyungjae said:
I just wanted to welcome another GNG Stink-E to the party. I helped my friend put together his GNG 1.1 on a 2003 Stinky. The process started about 6 months ago, and he ran into his share of problems.
20140111_090759.jpg

Look carefully at the fork!!! Those old Marzocchi crownes are dangerous!! I found a picture where you can see the cracks they usally have.

large_kroneunmarkiert.JPG.jpg


If you don't have cracks jet, i would recoment to carefully grind down the thin area and polisch it afterwards. That might prevent those cracks!
 
LightningRods said:
I've been working on a drawing for you and it looks like Antonio was doing the same thing. :lol:
We both seem to agree on the layout. It's best to move the jackshaft inside the frame triangle.

KonaDrive.jpg

Thank you very very much for the montage i agree aswell thats is going to be the best option :D
 
bee said:
Looks great, any chance we can get the source files for the motor & jackshaft that you modelled? Would be useful for others that want to model custom brackets.

No problem. The parts are made in NX 8, but I uploaded them as a step-file. I am no NX expert as we still use Ideas at work. I hope I exported them correctly.

I noticed when I made the plates, that the models are not 100% correct though. I think it's the angle between the M8 holes and the rest of the holes that is a little bit off. The endplate is also rotated which means the hole for the cable is in wrong position. Other than that I think the model is quite accurate.

View attachment GNG motor and jackshaft.rar

LightningRods said:
Nice looking setup. If you want to keep the motor inside of the frame triangle the main thing I would change would be to lower the jackshaft closer to the BB. Assuming that you are running a primary belt drive as shown in your model it's better to have more distance between the pulleys. Part of what's wrong with the stock GNG arrangement is that the pulleys are too close together. That opens the belt angle and disengages teeth in the small driver pulley.

Good point, but I have already made the plates. I will keep it in mind in case i get problems with belt slipping or wear. However because of the three chain tensioning screws close to the big pulley, I don't think I can move the jackshaft more than maybe 20mm closer to the BB.

From one thing to another. Do you guys now what the difference is between the GNG kit and the kit that Conhismotor.com sells? I bought this kit, but with a thumb throttle, from Conhis on Ebay for 375$ including shipping, which is a bit cheaper than original GNG. (Btw is GNG the original manufacturer of the kit?)

Atleast the controller seems to be different. I've been looking for this controller on the forum but I haven't been able to find any info at all. Anyone know the output of this controller?
https://6qll7q.dm2301.livefilestore...4eaTK32qcHWVzNM888/WP_20131109_002.jpg?psid=1

Only have picture from the inside at the moment.
 
_Tommy_ said:
From one thing to another. Do you guys now what the difference is between the GNG kit and the kit that Conhismotor.com sells?

From what I've seen the Conhismotor and GNG kits are identical, at least as far as the motor, brackets, BB crankset and main section of the kit is concerned. Good luck figuring out who makes what in China. In my attempts to track down the factory that makes these motors I've found at least four different sources. They all have similarities and are all subtly different, especially in the appearance of the external center case and right hand (non drive) case. The GNG/Conhismotor spec motor seems to have had it's center case milled 2-3 mm and has the unique and terribly made integral steel driver pulley. All of the standard spec motors I've found have a helical drive gear for a tricycle transmission.

A forum member wrote me and said that Conhismotor sells replacement motors- for about $230! That's about twice what it should be. I'm currently buying motors one at a time off of Taobao to prevent them from beating each other to death in transit. I'm close to working a deal with one of the factories that I found to ship 100 motors to Portland, Oregon. We should be looking at mid February for delivery to Portland.
 
--freeride-- said:
Look carefully at the fork!!! Those old Marzocchi crownes are dangerous!! I found a picture where you can see the cracks they usally have.

large_kroneunmarkiert.JPG.jpg


If you don't have cracks jet, i would recoment to carefully grind down the thin area and polisch it afterwards. That might prevent those cracks!

Whoa... I should take a look at that. I don't think that part of the fork was looked at when we took it to the LBS to be rebuilt.

Now that the fender is off that fork and on my bike, we should be able to get a good view.
 
Coming from the off road motorcycle world where front forks have upper and lower triple trees all of these lower tree only bicycle forks look wrong to me. The twisting load on the single bottom tree is pretty intense. I'd rather have the extra weight of a longer fork tube and an upper crown that clamps the tube.

BOIF-1.jpg
 
LightningRods said:
Coming from the off road motorcycle world where front forks have upper and lower triple trees all of these lower tree only bicycle forks look wrong to me. The twisting load on the single bottom tree is pretty intense. I'd rather have the extra weight of a longer fork tube and an upper crown that clamps the tube.

BOIF-1.jpg

I hear you. I actually ordered some Enduro seals for the dual crown on my Stink-E. However, if my friend's fork turns out to be cracked, I may just sell him mine and find a used Boxxer somewhere.

How's the progress on them sealed jackshafts? :D
 
skyungjae said:
How's the progress on them sealed jackshafts? :D

I'm taking my machinist out for beers tonight with the hidden agenda of flogging him to make jackshafts and motor spindles. :D
 
Hello, everyone!

Long time listener, first time caller. Ah, where to begin... First of all, I just want to thank all of you on E-S, and this forum in particular, for the interest, creativity, feedback and perseverance with this GNG kit and in the promotion of electric motor-ed things in general. It has tipped the scales in favor of me deciding to build my own electric bike. I have journeyed through all 123 (current) pages of this thread and it's been long but incredibly informative.

Some quick context: I live in Seattle. Everywhere you go there are hills. Many of the 10-20% grade variety. I got into biking for commuting back in April of 2012 and haven't taken the bus to work since. It's been a lot of fun, and a lot of work because I live near the top of one of those hills. Anyway, the bike that got me into it all is off to another happy owner. I am now on my sixth bike--all of which have been some version of restoring, restoring and upgrading, or building from the ground up. All this to say that I have enjoyed learning from 'zero' how to build and maintain my bikes. I like cars a lot and do DIY maintenance, but not at my place because I street park. But I can get my fix doing bike stuff!

So to the bike and its relevance to this GNG kit: Street only, 700C wheels (700x35 tires @ 704mm OD), mid-drive, and low to the ground. I want the top speed to be in city traffic range (25 mph, 30 mph max) and the range to be around or better than 10 miles. Ah spec'd at 10Ah just to start. The idea is a fun zip around the city/commute bike that delivers moped-legal levels of power and speed, but is bicycle-sized and can go up hills without burning up and then just rolled into one's apartment and turned off--no heat, no leaks, no burns, no oil, no mess. * Looks fun/cool, feels fun, goes quickly, isn't a hassle * Hub motors were on the consideration, but this city isn't friendly to them. I won't be pedaling because I don't plan on that being a part of the build--no BB stress, but will have to fully figure out the legal nature of this vehicle because of that. I have aesthetic/exterior design ideas along with this bike to complete this concept as well, but it first needs to exist.

Having arrived at this critical mass of information and CAD pre-development (Rhino), I humbly ask a few questions at this juncture:

1) The GNG is rated at 67kV at 48V unloaded. I believe I read the Volts-under-load amount many pages back, but can't find it. Bike+me=250-260 lb range. What have people seen at the 48V nominal/controller level when they've run it there? I suppose this is like crank hp and wheel hp in cars--what is the power loss? 44V effectively? 40V effectively? Do I make any sense? I ask in relation to top speed. I ran calculations based on the linked tables (page 1) and am a touch higher in MPH overall. I'm happy to gear down via front chainring sizes but want to "tune" it correctly or as close as possible the motor-output-under-load with my desired cruising/top speeds.

2) Do we have a power curve graph of the GNG? I've scoured and have come up empty...

3) I'm looking at different battery sources. Seems like the recently-mentioned conhismotor site has some decent prices on packs (among other sites). My bike frame design, which is completely custom (an "all new" design, what was I thinking??), allows for two NiMh D-cell packs as that was an early consideration. Who online has been a trustworthy source for you? [if the answer is to the effect of a friendly "go fish," I will go fish :) ]

Thank you so much for your help! I hope to soon begin a build thread with pictures--all I have is two wheels, a fork, handlebars, and a headset. I am interested in your bracket kits, Mr. Lightning Rods; if not more on the chain/belt upgrade side of things (and hello from another Art Center College of Design alum!). Either way, I will be looking to buy this kit (or at least the motor) in some form. I know I've bitten off a very big chunk of steak with this idea in my head (and sketched on paper), but am chewing it slowly but diligently. Much I've learned already both here and my dad (a EE with an eye on electric motors and efficiency desire/interest for many things), and MUCH to learn still. :D

Cheers!
 
LightningRods said:
Coming from the off road motorcycle world where front forks have upper and lower triple trees all of these lower tree only bicycle forks look wrong to me. The twisting load on the single bottom tree is pretty intense. I'd rather have the extra weight of a longer fork tube and an upper crown that clamps the tube. ]

What you do not want is a bike frame that is indented and dicked up from being bashed by the upper fork tube. Bicycles do not have steering stops.

You can make the same case in principle for the crowns of non-suspension bicycle forks, but those have been proven for longer than we've had mechanical engineering. What works, works.
 
The conventional bicycle front fork will almost certainly be fine for anything I want to do. With some of these e-bikes pushing 100 lbs and people riding them like motocross bikes I think we're getting into a grey zone where the single triple clamp may not cut it. Having your front fork fold under you off of a big jump or at speed would suck in the extreme.
 
hi

i just posted my modified gng kit in a german/austrian forum and put alot of photos in.
unless i'm too lazy to translate it right now i just give you the link.

Photos tell more than (english) words
http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/sh...rter-gng-ketten-mittelmotor-amp-gruber-assist

if you want you can post some feedback, ideas and inputs on the german forum too.

But to make you curious i tell you some specialities about my bike:

-I made a hollowtech II freewheel
-I can demount the kit with just 3 screws in some seconds
-i laied all the cable inside of the handlebar and mounted some hidden switches their
-there is a second lightweight motor built in the bike, you might know it
-I'm An Austrian

greets

gernot
radl2.JPGdemontieren3.JPGantrieb1.JPG
 
Hi Spinningmagnets

Looks like there are two dowel pins through the thin bb axle. I guess if this is the case I would caution before adding it to the STRONG list without some life testing. Certainly not something you would do jumps with safely even without the left arm hanging way off the proper axle mounting spot and not having the right side axle supported in the original spot by the external cup bearings. Should be ok pedaling seated with reasonable motor power added.
 
Looks like your left crank arm is ready to fall off.

Whow, I was also shocked when i saw that, but it's depending on the angle you look at it, in real it does not look that bad,(alo on the other photos) it's about 3mm less support than from a original mount.
And there are about 2mm more to get on the right side, when i take it apart next time.
You have to know there is this hidden austrian vivax gruber-assist support motor in the saddletube, driving the crankaxle and taking the crank apart is always connected with taking out the motor and adjusting the disatances of the gear wheels.

But i totally agree I would not call that STRONG I just had 3 hollowtech cranks at home and wante to give them a try.
The material of the tube is some crazy alloying, i was not able to drill ahole with my best drills, still i think it takes alot of the static-power to drill 4 holes in a tube.

But:
to my suprise it's working now since two years, about 700km and some quite crazy trial jumps and crashes.
I still think it's way stronger than the original gng wich is sticking out way to far from its axle bearing point,

A STRONG freewheel crank would be this one
Boosty_Echo_ISIS_4bf7eb6cdf658.jpg

made by some swiss freaks, but very expensive, my crank has some design ideas from them
http://www.boosty.ch/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Boosty_Echo_ISIS_4bf7eb6cdf658.jpg

As long as i want to use the gruber motor in my bike I probably have to deal with hollowtech cranks
vivax_assist_2014_web.jpg


I see some possibilities to make a custom axle for similar cranks than the boosty-guys use but i can not make these endconnesction like octalink, isis,..... and i do not know a good quality crank with a square-hole connection.
 
This is a good design. I just want to make the point for people considering making something similar that belt drives benefit more from longer center to center distances than chains do. If you use an engineering application or a belt drive design program you'll see that there is a minimum recommended distance. The stock GNG drive does not meet this distance requirement.
 
LightningRods said:
This is a good design. I just want to make the point for people considering making something similar that belt drives benefit more from longer center to center distances than chains do. If you use an engineering application or a belt drive design program you'll see that there is a minimum recommended distance. The stock GNG drive does not meet this distance requirement.

Is that to ensure the pitch allows for maximum teeth engagement belt-to-pully?

i.e. less center-to-center distance increases the angle of belt-to-pully, reducing the #teeth engaged? Farther away reduces that angle on your drive cog?
 
Rollodo said:
If this is possible, it will put my faith back into the GNG kit again, from the stealthiness standpoint.
This is absolutely possible. In my opinion the biggest problem is the rear shock which takes up quite much of the space inside the frame triangle. Would be much easier to install this way on a hard tail bike. It is hard to get at stealthy look with this kit wherever you put it. If you want a stealthy mid drive kit I think it's better to go with the cyclone kit, which has planetary gears instead of the jackshaft. However I have read that Cyclones are quite noisy. That's why I chose GNG.
 
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