GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

emilx said:
Hello guys.
I lost the nut that holds the sprocket on the motor shaft, but the GNG doesn't know what type it is. Can anyone of you tell me how can I find this nut?
I tried about all hardware stores, but no luck at all. It seems that this type of nut is not used in Italy..
I also happen to have a mac hub motor with a missing nut, and again, no luck finding a replacement. Are these an imperial standard? Is there any chart where I could look them up, and maybe order them off aliex?

Try a M10 nut.

Wishes
 
ebike11 said:
LightningRods said:
I have complete assemblies with Dicta freewheel and (3) 1/2" chainwheels included or you can also buy 148mm ISIS BB, ISIS crank arms and ACS freewheel separately and build up your own freewheeling BB. None of these parts are compatible with any part of the GNG BB. The GNG is all oddball junk.

I also personally guarantee that all of my BB cups are fully threaded or your money back. :lol:

Hi LR, you mentioned in that post that none of these parts are compatible with the GNG BB. However, are the parts compatible if purchased and used with your BB?

Thanks! :D

Yes they are.
Wishes
 
ebike11 said:
Hi guys, plan on pulling the trigger soon and was wondering, if the front derallieur is to be removed in order to install the mid drive, where does the shift cable that is on the deralliur go to??
Thanks!

Some people have been creative and managed to keep that front derailleur. But if you are going to use the stock gng, you do not have the option to install more than 1 chaining for the rear wheel. So that front derailleur becomes useless. Remove the cable completely.

Wishes
 
Wishes said:
ebike11 said:
Hi guys, plan on pulling the trigger soon and was wondering, if the front derallieur is to be removed in order to install the mid drive, where does the shift cable that is on the deralliur go to??
Thanks!

Some people have been creative and managed to keep that front derailleur. But if you are going to use the stock gng, you do not have the option to install more than 1 chaining for the rear wheel. So that front derailleur becomes useless. Remove the cable completely.

Wishes

Thanks for the replies!!
I see what you mean. Is it possible to keep the front derailleur and cable still on the bike in case of switching back to hub?
Would there be enough space with the gng installed?
thx again
 
ebike11 said:
Wishes said:
ebike11 said:
Hi guys, plan on pulling the trigger soon and was wondering, if the front derallieur is to be removed in order to install the mid drive, where does the shift cable that is on the deralliur go to??
Thanks!

Some people have been creative and managed to keep that front derailleur. But if you are going to use the stock gng, you do not have the option to install more than 1 chaining for the rear wheel. So that front derailleur becomes useless. Remove the cable completely.

Wishes

Thanks for the replies!!
I see what you mean. Is it possible to keep the front derailleur and cable still on the bike in case of switching back to hub?
Would there be enough space with the gng installed?
thx again

Sure you can leave it if you can secure the end of it so it doesn't get caught up in the chain.

There is enough room and ability to play with the spacing of the parts with LR's kit and have more than 1 chain ring. Many have done it by building their own setup, replacement BB, replacement freewheel ect.... But with the stock gng, I haven't seen someone who has done it and posted about it. With all the creative people on this forum, doesn't mean it hasn't been done.

Wishes
 
emilx said:
I lost the nut that holds the sprocket on the motor shaft, but the GNG doesn't know what type it is. Can anyone of you tell me how can I find this nut?

The jackshaft nut is an M10-1.5mm. The driver nut is probably an M14-1.5mm.

ebike11 said:
Hi LR, you mentioned in that post that none of these parts are compatible with the GNG BB. However, are the parts compatible if purchased and used with your BB?

By "BB" I meant the bottom bracket axle cassette, not the lower sheets that fit to the BB shell. The Cyclone ISIS BB fits both the GNG lower sheets as well as my adjustable lower sheets. I make 219 sprocket adapters for both the GNG BB cassette and the Cyclone ISIS BB cassette. No parts interchange between the GNG BB and Cyclone ISIS BB.

ebike11 said:
Hi guys, plan on pulling the trigger soon and was wondering, if the front derallieur is to be removed in order to install the mid drive, where does the shift cable that is on the deralliur go to??
Thanks!

If you have a 68mm wide BB shell you should be able to run three sprockets. One will be the driven secondary sprocket so you will have two final drive chainwheels to shift between with your front derailleur. You shouldn't have to do anything more than to adjust the derailleur stop so it doesn't try to shift onto the outside chainwheel. It seems that 148mm is the axle length for 68mm, 73mm, 83mm and 100mm ISIS BB cassettes. On the wider BB shells there is nothing to do but trial fit the chainwheels. Interference from other components like rear suspension parts on FS bikes is more of an issue.
 
like that color the problem is that our house will get all full of bumps and scratched our Chinese friends do not have any care with these enbalegem produtost after the money in the account, Send us the kit, s to be a lot of garbage .
 
He already comes like this see here to link http://m.gngebike.com/site/mobile?dm_path=%2F450w%2Dbrushless%2Dmud%2Dguard&fw_sig_is_admin=0&fw_sig=c32954348b3f9164f704ad460f08928c&fw_sig_access_token=e671a3e9fccb0a3a729d747c251e8445c1baa162&fw_sig_url=http://www.gngebike.com/&fw_sig_api_key=522b0eedffc137c934fc7268582d53a1&fw_sig_time=1398288581362&fw_sig_session_key=763fa25ff3c6597c5ca69c28bf846a40bc03b542367706211f758665aa5823e9-77686808&fw_sig_permissions=none&fw_sig_site=77686808&fw_sig_locale=en-US&fw_sig_tier=1&fw_sig_potential_abuse=1&fw_sig_premium=1&fw_sig_social=1&fw_sig_permission_level=0&fb_sig_network=fw#PhotoSwipe1398292763629
 
With all of the other things that need fixing on the GNG kit, what an interesting decision to anodize the center case orange. Cheaper than paying for a decent belt or chain primary drive I guess.
 
The 8mm-chain primary kit is only $10 more than the original belted kit, plus the red/orange does look cool (anodising in China is likely to be very affordable).

The BB crankset is still likely to be the original weak unit (to be immediately replaced with the 148mm wide Cyclone set), along with the junk 12T freewheel on the secondary (to be immediately replaced by a shaft adapter and the 13T ACS-Crossfire) but at 36V, I think the chained primary kit wouldn't be horrible as a commuter.

Mr Chan has swapped the original 48V controller for a 36V unit at no extra charge in the past, so...

http://www.gngebike.com/60v650w-brushless
 
Overclocker said:
quick question

what's the LVC for the 48v controller?

what about the 36v controller?

I'm pretty sure the LVC is 39v for the 48. Dunno about the 36v.
 
LightningRods said:
Overclocker said:
quick question

what's the LVC for the 48v controller?

what about the 36v controller?

I'm pretty sure the LVC is 39v for the 48. Dunno about the 36v.


[youtube]OOmVayD9qtE[/youtube]

there's the 60V650W. LVC also 40v. strange, so the "60v" kit uses the same controller as the 48v?
 
Overclocker said:
LightningRods said:
Overclocker said:
quick question

what's the LVC for the 48v controller?

what about the 36v controller?

I'm pretty sure the LVC is 39v for the 48. Dunno about the 36v.


[youtube]OOmVayD9qtE[/youtube]

there's the 60V650W. LVC also 40v. strange, so the "60v" kit uses the same controller as the 48v?

No they are definitely 2 different controllers. The 60v controller uses 83v CAPs and the 48v uses 63v caps.

Wishes
 
Wishes said:
No they are definitely 2 different controllers. The 60v controller uses 83v CAPs and the 48v uses 63v caps.

Wishes


so aside from the capacitors the controllers are pretty much the same then?

so if the prices of the two kits are the same then the 60v controller would be the better buy, right? or am i missing something...

will be buying this kit very soon...
 
Overclocker said:
Wishes said:
No they are definitely 2 different controllers. The 60v controller uses 83v CAPs and the 48v uses 63v caps.

Wishes


so aside from the capacitors the controllers are pretty much the same then?

so if the prices of the two kits are the same then the 60v controller would be the better buy, right? or am i missing something...

will be buying this kit very soon...

I have bought both in the past, and I would suggest you get the 60v version for the simple fact that it comes with a chain instead of a belt, which is terribly unreliable and doesn't last very long. The chain version is much better. Beside using different voltages, both controllers are the same. They are both set to 22 amp stock limit.

Wishes
 
Wishes said:
Overclocker said:
Wishes said:
No they are definitely 2 different controllers. The 60v controller uses 83v CAPs and the 48v uses 63v caps.

Wishes


so aside from the capacitors the controllers are pretty much the same then?

so if the prices of the two kits are the same then the 60v controller would be the better buy, right? or am i missing something...

will be buying this kit very soon...

I have bought both in the past, and I would suggest you get the 60v version for the simple fact that it comes with a chain instead of a belt, which is terribly unreliable and doesn't last very long. The chain version is much better. Beside using different voltages, both controllers are the same. They are both set to 22 amp stock limit.

Wishes


http://www.gngebike.com/60v650w-brushless

chain reduction kit comes in 48v and 60v flavors
 
Ah they learned there lesson and removed the belt, i had not been on their site in over a year. Then it is only a question of your voltage preference. Of course you get a bit more watts with the 60v version.

Wishes
 
Wishes said:
Ah they learned there lesson and removed the belt, i had not been on their site in over a year. Then it is only a question of your voltage preference. Of course you get a bit more watts with the 60v version.

Wishes


awesome. 60v kit then. since LVC is pretty much the same then i could use 48v battery, then upgrade to 60v later on if i desire. thanks for the help
 
Overclocker said:
Wishes said:
Ah they learned there lesson and removed the belt, i had not been on their site in over a year. Then it is only a question of your voltage preference. Of course you get a bit more watts with the 60v version.

Wishes


awesome. 60v kit then. since LVC is pretty much the same then i could use 48v battery, then upgrade to 60v later on if i desire. thanks for the help

From what I remember of tests that were done on both, the LVC was not the same and the 60v controller will not turn the motor with a 48v battery. But that was almost a year ago, so my information might be dated. I know that 48v battery on my 60v stock controller does not work.

Wishes
 
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