GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

Secret1511 said:
bee said:
How do you take apart the GNG motor? I want to upgrade my phase wires.
Click to expand...

Me 2!!! Can someone tell us how ? like a tuturial?
Click to expand...

What is stock wire gauge and what power/ampoerage they can tolerate?
Would be nice to know at what power there is benefit/point to upgrade them.
people with 3000W GNG setups - are you running stock wires?

Peak power after shunt mod is 1250-1350W (28-29A). Is there any point to upgrade phase wires at this power level (probably not)?
How muck voltage sag can be decreased with upgrade? At my setup, sag is less than 2V, probably only 1.5V

Right now I use stock wires but wiring from LiPos to controller (to put 2 Lipos in series and inline 30A fuse) I made using 12AWG wire and parallel harnesses (to parallel 2 Lipos) are made by 14AWG turnigy silicon wires. So 12S2P configuration using four Zippy 5000mAh 30C 6S Lipos.

Meelis
 
meelis11 said:
How muck voltage sag can be decreased with upgrade?
Click to expand...
Nothing significant - unless you run them around the bike a few times before connecting them to the controller.... :) If you could pack more copper into the windings by using a larger gauge there, it would be a different matter.
 
I used 6 gauge supply wire. I had a few pieces left over from a audio project. No sence starting out with wimpy wire leaving the battery. :twisted:
Funning looking compared to what is going into the stock controller. :p

1700 watts is what mine is putting out based on the speed it achives going by the calculator with 12s lipo. Phase wire looked way too light to me. :? Was playing with the idea of swaping them out for some heavier wire. They do get warm but no heat to speak of. Certainly worth doing if we are loosing some 5% of our voltage there. I will upgrade them when I get my 40 AMP controller. :)

For diassembly we should add a link at the start of the thread. This has been covered several times in the various GNG threads. No tricks. Just pull out the screws and it pops apart with a few taps of a plastic mallet.
 
speedmd said:
I used 6 gauge supply wire. I had a few pieces left over from a audio project. No sence starting out with wimpy wire leaving the battery. :twisted:
Funning looking compared to what is going into the stock controller. :p

1700 watts is what mine is putting out based on the speed it achives going by the calculator with 12s lipo. Phase wire looked way too light to me. :? Was playing with the idea of swaping them out for some heavier wire. They do get warm but no heat to speak of. Certainly worth doing if we are loosing some 5% of our voltage there. I will upgrade them when I get my 40 AMP controller. :)

For diassembly we should add a link at the start of the thread. This has been covered several times in the various GNG threads. No tricks. Just pull out the screws and it pops apart with a few taps of a plastic mallet.
Click to expand...

I run like 3200 watt and they do get hot.
I have no hills here in the netherlands so the problem is not that big.
I certainly like to have more power, but the phase wires will be a problem
 
Secret1511 said:
speedmd said:
I used 6 gauge supply wire. I had a few pieces left over from a audio project. No sence starting out with wimpy wire leaving the battery. :twisted:
Funning looking compared to what is going into the stock controller. :p

1700 watts is what mine is putting out based on the speed it achives going by the calculator with 12s lipo. Phase wire looked way too light to me. :? Was playing with the idea of swaping them out for some heavier wire. They do get warm but no heat to speak of. Certainly worth doing if we are loosing some 5% of our voltage there. I will upgrade them when I get my 40 AMP controller. :)

For diassembly we should add a link at the start of the thread. This has been covered several times in the various GNG threads. No tricks. Just pull out the screws and it pops apart with a few taps of a plastic mallet.
Click to expand...

I run like 3200 watt and they do get hot.
I have no hills here in the netherlands so the problem is not that big.
I certainly like to have more power, but the phase wires will be a problem
Click to expand...

I just figured, that I only measured volage sag from battery to wattmeter. And there i have 12 gauge wire. At first I had smaller gauge (dont know rating, was unmarked) and then sag was 0.5V more than now (before 1.8V, now 1.3V). That is from battery to wattmeter before controller.I should somehow measure voltage near motor so it includes phase wire.
 
I put 7000w through my GNG briefly and melted the phase wire connectors together so I'd like to upgrade the wires to 12ga and limit the motor to just under 5000w (28s/~40-42a)

I've seen a few opened up GNG motors on here so someone knows the trick! Can I take pry off either side of the motor with some screwdrivers, or do I need to use a gear puller to slowly push out the spindle side?
 
Either cover is a mild press/ slip fit onto the shaft/ bearings and center case. No need to remove rotor as the shaft slips out from it also. Just a bit of tapping with the plastic mallet and it will loosen up and come apart easy.

12 gauge is good for 41 amps in chassis apps. Only a bit over 9 amps for power transmission. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
I would go up to 10 at your power levels.
 
If anyone is about to buy a new GNG, if you send it to me, I will tear it apart, take pics of everything showing how to perform all common upgrades, measure every part to post data, and I will upgrade the phase wires and install an LM35 temp sensor, then mail it to you (inside continental US should be about $25 shipping or less, I'll pay that). Here's two that I have done:

"Bafang/BPM geared-hub specs, teardown, and pics"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51237

"MAC geared hub specs, teardown, and pics"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51310
 
Close to the stator coils, wherever there's room. This pic is a BPM, and the white foam is only there temporarily to push the sensor against the bottom of the stator while the gray epoxy dries.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51237#p766256
file.php


Here's the GNG stator in the pic below. I'd make an opening on that yellow stiff insulation stuff on the side to expose the steel laminations just on the outer side of the coils, and epoxy it there. The BPM above is an outrunner, and the GNG is an inrunner. The GNG rotor is in the center, and the "base" of the stator is the outer edge of the motor.

GNGtempSensor.png
 
bee said:
This is the part I broke:

Aggfmm3m.jpg
Click to expand...

Ouch. There is an end bearing for the spindle on the back side of that case. It must have gotten too cocked to one side?
 
I got mine open without issues but it took some time... On Christer's motor, heating the bearing area with a heat gun helped a lot. I doubled the phases wires on mine just for good mesure at 70A peak! but the best way to get the most out of this motor is high voltage low amps. 100v 40A is more efficient than 50v 70A on this motor.
 
I found a more information on the width of the stator:
350W：22mm
500W：25mm
650W：30mm
800W：40mm
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16500006624
 
Okay, you asked for a GNG motor disassembly tutorial- here it is. It's not perfect, but if you've never taken one of these motors apart this should be of some help to you. It's not that hard once you know what you are dealing with inside of the cases. Thanks again to Krister who travelled this path first and gave me the courage to do the same.

http://youtu.be/WFbMbHrMTIc
 
LightningRods said:
Okay, you asked for a GNG motor disassembly tutorial- here it is. It's not perfect, but if you've never taken one of these motors apart this should be of some help to you. It's not that hard once you know what you are dealing with inside of the cases. Thanks again to Krister who travelled this path first and gave me the courage to do the same.

http://youtu.be/WFbMbHrMTIc
Click to expand...

Nice!!! Thanks man. :D
 
LightningRods said:
Okay, you asked for a GNG motor disassembly tutorial- here it is. It's not perfect, but if you've never taken one of these motors apart this should be of some help to you. It's not that hard once you know what you are dealing with inside of the cases. Thanks again to Krister who travelled this path first and gave me the courage to do the same.

http://youtu.be/WFbMbHrMTIc
Click to expand...
thanks m8 thats great ,, especially showing how to get the bk cover off,

just a thought ,, would there be any problems if the rear cover had (say) a 10mm hole drilled in the centre so that a pully extracter could push the shaft out before unbolting the covers to remove them ,, im thinking that this way it may take away the risk of cracking or breaking the back cover ??
then on reasembly the hole could be covered ..
 
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