Cyclebutt said:neptronix said:It's the low end torque that kills these gears / chain and belts. I bet the standard controller isn't tuned for a proper battery to phase amp ratio. I'll share you a little trick that saved the planetary reduction gears in hub motors before we had those fancy composite gears ..
If you have a lyen/infineon controller, the default phase amp to battery ratio is something like 3:1, or 60 amp phase to 20 amp battery, for example.
This allows you to put out really fantastic low end torque from a stall, but it does produce a very large peak of torque, as you know electric motors are characteristically capable of producing.
If you dial back the phase amp to battery amp ratio to say, 2.5:1, the low end torque will be much less intense, but the mid-high torque will be just the same. Venture into 2:1 ratios and you will see in some motors - torque actually being really low from 0rpm, and gradually ramping up, much like an internal combustion engine where all your torque is made near the RPM limit of the motor.
Give it a shot guys. I bet your springs and belts will last longer if you do this. It will be less exciting, it will be harder to do a wheelie, but the kit should last a lot longer.
Okay, I'm sold. But, I don't have a Lyen/Infineon controller (These are both programmable?), just this little deal from GNG. Let's say I want to go with the a phase amp to battery ratio of around 2.25:1 to 2:1 region. Is there a resistor or circuit I can modify/add to my existing controller to change it from the (assumed for this controller?) default of 3:1? and still get full performance at the top RPMs?
Also, don't the Lyen controllers have throttle lag issues as well? Seems I saw that in another thread, one of my complaints about the stock controller/throttle/motor set-up.
spinningmagnets said:Pretty incredible, even at $263! I wonder now if there's a minimum order size? If I owned a bike-store, I'd get some of these and run a 20A sensorless controller, swap-in a spring-tensioned primary chain idler, and advertise them as a US-legal 750W kit using a 15-Ah battery pack.
Gotta love the Google translate:
"The video sample car installed 48V450W kit, 36V350W motor efforts be weaker Oh!"
chaindrives ... <- page 34christerljung said:The trickiest part of this conversion was the chaintensioner. Very hard to get it in the exact position. I had a much more fancy looking rotating spring for the tensioner(instead of the rubber band), but i just couldnt manage to get in correct position.
snellemin said:Nice and simple, but will it climb as good as the dual stage reduction?
This is different enough from the GNG 450W kit that perhaps it deserves its own thread?
This is not only a bracket. It's a completely redesigned motor You can make a brackets yourself using a hacksaw, a 34mm hole saw and a fileHaving the bracketry available for to the public for purchase is a good development.
most noise from the geared hubs does the rotor IMO (3rd, 5th and 7th harmonic due block/trapezoid commutation) . There is almost no difference if you take out the gears and let the motor run with a friction load alone, which i accidently did when converting my hub. Additionally all my hubs have resonances when spinning at certain rpm.I suspect the GNG belted primary would be quieter than a Bafang-ish planetary-geared primary
Am I reading this right? Same kit shipped to the USA in 15 days,with a tracking number, for under $200 USD? That's 1/2 price, my friend! Bookmarked for future. Anyone here tried this source before?iperov said:GNG origin: from china $156 http://www.mistertao.com/taobao-products/taobao-item-18826436986.html
Was thinking the same thing. Mid drive is here to stay, lots of good ideas here.crossbreak said:Looks like my converted hubmotor. I guess it uses a planetary reduction as well so it might actually be 2-stage. The missing freewheel on the sprocket is also a sign for that.