GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

christerljung said:
bzhwindtalker said:
Who knows where to get the 800w gang inrunner? Would be the perfect motor for my next build.
You mean: 800w GNG inrunner i suppose.
From what i will remember there was an aliexpress or mrTao link to motor only, a bunch of pages back. The price was low, about 35$.
Haven´t found it yet, been scanning this thread about 3 months back.
This could be the GNG-motor, sold separetaly with a fan.
http://www.mistertao.com/taobao-products/taobao-item-15940174178.html
 
christerljung said:
christerljung said:
bzhwindtalker said:
Who knows where to get the 800w gang inrunner? Would be the perfect motor for my next build.
You mean: 800w GNG inrunner i suppose.
From what i will remember there was an aliexpress or mrTao link to motor only, a bunch of pages back. The price was low, about 35$.
Haven´t found it yet, been scanning this thread about 3 months back.
This could be the GNG-motor, sold separetaly with a fan.
http://www.mistertao.com/taobao-products/taobao-item-15940174178.html

Thanks Christer, yes it does look like the same extrusion casing, I sent a message about getting some specs on the 650 and 800w units... I'm not too interested in the rear fan. I also emailed Jon at GNG about those trike motors in wider formats. I like those motors.
 
I did some calcs on different pulley sizes. This is how they fit with my longer than stock adjustable upper sheets. The 120T/20T combo fits but there's no room for flanges. I think a longer set is needed for that combination.

PulleySizeChart.jpg
 
This could be the GNG-motor, sold separetaly with a fan.
http://www.mistertao.com/taobao-products/taobao-item-15940174178.html

Interesting - comes in 2 winds - a 60V and a 48V. I would assume that the 60V would be wound slower.

You can see how they made the drive shaft into the HTD pulley with a straight cutter and a 3 axis CNC. Clever.
 
Great graphic LightningRods! a pic is truly worth a kilo-word.

One of the great things about this 3D printing, you don't have to commit to 30 pieces to get a decent per-piece price. I've known for a while that we can buy a length of raw aluminum pulley stock, chop to desired length, bore a hole for the shaft, etc, something like $300 IIRC.

Longevity is not really the main issue yet, I just want to know what power an 18T / 20mm-wide pulley can take without slipping (when properly tensioned without any idler). That issue has an effect the reaches farther than just this GNG kit, since we have found there is a shortage of selection in small diameter pulleys.

If ES decides what the hot part for primary reductions is, someone will start making them. There are several examples of parts that are affordably available now, that had to be DIY a couple years ago.
 
3D printed part is generally half as strong as the base material IN the direction of the grain. Layer adhesion is weak.
spinningmagnets said:
If ES decides what the hot part for primary reductions is, someone will start making them. There are several examples of parts that are affordably available now, that had to be DIY a couple years ago.
Stat selling a complete, refined kit! 8)
 
3D printed part is generally half as strong

I found 3d parts very weak compared to a molded part. Nylon 66 being around 12000 psi Tensile going by memory would be risky in too thin a wall. I would be surprised by 5000 PSI for it in SLA and much softer than common injection molded 66 parts. Good molded 66 nylon (30+% glass filled) should be above 25000 psi and suitable if thick enough and you could get it to stick. Still with the right prep and joining the 3d parts will hopefully hold up long enough to prove out the ratios. Parts /files can be perfected and sent out also to any shop that can turn out the perfect sizes in steel, Stainless, brass, aluminum... .
 
Loving the slip-on pulley idea, I want one when it's ready. :mrgreen:

..
 
I just tried going to the GNG website to see if they sell BB's separately, but it seems like their site is down. Well, they still have active listings on eBay. Hopefully it's just maintenance and they're not gone.
 
Working now.

http://www.downforeveryoneorjustme.com/ is good for a double check.
 
Did some archive research, looks like we are re-inventing the wheel. Lower image is Aussie-Jesters epoxy-cast pulley teeth, cheap aluminum V-belt core, belt used as a tooth mold. According to him it worked well on the large pulley, but he ended up wanting more reduction (larger pulley).

"Belt drive Sprockets on the Cheap!" 14 pages
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=26122&start=150#p520273
img29151.jpg


"Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog" 104 pages
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12810&start=90#p200130
pulley10.jpg
 
:?: does this kit require the extended left crank to clear the primary reduction?

sky: you can get the same crank & bb as parts from sickbike parts.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=m1injigkff3ejc2cgqifamevh4
 
speedmd said:
3D printed part is generally half as strong

I found 3d parts very weak compared to a molded part. Nylon 66 being around 12000 psi Tensile going by memory would be risky in too thin a wall. I would be surprised by 5000 PSI for it in SLA and much softer than common injection molded 66 parts. Good molded 66 nylon (30+% glass filled) should be above 25000 psi and suitable if thick enough and you could get it to stick. Still with the right prep and joining the 3d parts will hopefully hold up long enough to prove out the ratios. Parts /files can be perfected and sent out also to any shop that can turn out the perfect sizes in steel, Stainless, brass, aluminum... .
There are a ton of factors at play, but yeah, 3d printed parts are generally much weaker.

I've been printing tricopter bodies with various strengthening techniques so that I can rip them apart in order to find what works best. With some strategic design, and chemical treatment, I've been able to make the plastic printed parts withstand much more force, so I'm eager (but not unrealistic, the main point here is to do the R&D in cheap plastic to figure out ratios and sizes) to see how my parts hold up on the GNG kit.
 
Great that you bring this background to the topic. Most of the 3d parts I have played with are closer to wood in strength. Lots of development in the field and glad to hear more on your ways of making parts stronger. Shapeways has listed a aluminum filled material that may also be suitable but no real physicals listed.
 
WRT the 14t to 18t adaptor, I think the ideal would be to water-jet cut in two sections from 7/16" steel and then bond these, back-to-back, onto the 14t pulley. If there were any edge taper/distortion it would be book-matched. The maximum profile should be in the centre of the pulley. This should optimise belt tracking, I think....
 
Another possibility might be to water-jet cut the internal spline into existing 18t steel pulleys? You'd need to make a jig to hold and centre them accurately, though. Just a thought....
 
to be honest , at the end of the day, i think even a sprocket that will fit on the splined drive would be very popular,

most people are looking for some thing that will be as much plug-and-play as possible,
so whether its sprockets or belt, at the ends of the day. i dont think matters ,,
we have got things that we know works , but not with out having to machine the drive shaft from the motor, which is most peoples concern on modifying the GNG


i love the way this thread has gone though ,, people working together to solve this problem ,

im always willing to help test parts ,, pity i dont have the means to make them to test ,,
 
I just picked up the prototype adjustable BB sheets and I am VERY pleased with them.

BBSheets3.jpg


BBSheets4.jpg


BBSheets5.jpg


BBSheets1.jpg


BBSheets2.jpg


Everything fits perfectly and the chain adjuster is in the middle of it's travel with the stock belt and chain properly tensioned. The stock allen bolts are too short now because these brackets are two sheets of 12 ga. steel wider. I'll need to source those. Because these sheets bear the weight of the motor I retained cross plates in between the bottoms of both parts. There is zero slop between the inner slide and outer bracket. The metal brake operator nailed the bends. I was very fortunate to find this shop locally.

I'm going to approve this as ready for production. I will have a run of 20 available this week. $30 + shipping including longer allen bolts and tube spacers cut to size.
 
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