GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

Somebodystopme!! said:
I just want about 500 watts of help climbing hills but I want it to be somewhat quiet.

I may be too picky but the chain drive took the joy out of the ride for me.

Your wider belt drive would definitely be the way to go depending on the size of the primary jack-shaft sprocket. (at least for my frame) but I think the BBS02 Bafang will provide what I'm looking for.

If you're just looking for a quiet 500W then the Bafang should fill the bill. Their wide helical plastic primary drive seems to be really quiet. It sounds like 750-800 watts is all the little Bafang has to give before it turns into a toaster.

I agree with you about chain primary drive. That's why I've stayed with belt drive long after all of the reasonable people had converted to #25 chain. Now that I have the pulleys sorted I'm starting work on a cast urethane and sheet ABS enclosure to keep the belt drive clean and keep clothes and body parts out.

There's no difference between the 60v motor and the 48v motor other than the controller and motor output shaft. Either one could be hooked up to a Lyen or other upgraded controller and run at 72V 40 amps or 2880 watts.
 
Just thinking out loud here. Would a cover for the chain help quiet the noise? I run a stock GNG 48v and it is nice and quiet IMO. However, I plan to make a cover for the belt side to hide & protect it. I am thinking it may quiet it down as well. When I built my new bike I thought the GNG ran quieter then when I had it on my old MTB. My new bike has the motor, controller, and battery all inside a box frame. It seems to block the sound from my ears.
 
Joe T. said:
Just thinking out loud here. Would a cover for the chain help quiet the noise? I run a stock GNG 48v and it is nice and quiet IMO. However, I plan to make a cover for the belt side to hide & protect it. I am thinking it may quiet it down as well. When I built my new bike I thought the GNG ran quieter then when I had it on my old MTB. My new bike has the motor, controller, and battery all inside a box frame. It seems to block the sound from my ears.

That's a good point. Despite the large helical gears that the Bafang has it is also completely enclosed.
 
Several respected people verified this:

...My previous bike with #35 chain sounded like an annoying vacuum cleaner mixed with an electric chainsaw...The pink Agni bike was just dead silent...

spinningmagnets:
What chain type did Luke use on the Pinkbike? He had mentioned before that it was a small motorcycle roller chain and was surprisingly quiet, but I forgot the size...

Thud:
Luke was speaking of his twin Turnigy motored specialized bicycle. I forget the actual tooth counts, but the differance in noise is directly attributable to the low-RPM Agni (4k RPM's) compared to the RC motor(9k+ RPM's)The Agni bike (& I think the current death bike) used #428 motorcycle chain. I can vouch for the "Dead silent" of the current death bike....it is eerie having so much power & the only sound you hear is tires whistling on the asphalt.
 
Lost the little key taking out the free wheel on the Jack shaft today. Anybody know the size and dimension or know we're to get a replacement?
 
boltedjolt said:
Lost the little key taking out the free wheel on the Jack shaft today. Anybody know the size and dimension or know we're to get a replacement?

It's standard 4mm square key stock. I bought several sticks of it from a local hardware supplier.
 
boltedjolt said:
Lost the little key taking out the free wheel on the Jack shaft today. Anybody know the size and dimension or know we're to get a replacement?

Also, on mine the square key has a round bevel on both ends that I used a file to round out the replacement when I lost mine.
 
Be careful using the word "done" in regard to a project like this, John. I find that once I start tweaking on something, it's never done as long as I own it. By the time the last mod is done the first work I did looks like crap to me and has to be done over.

Didn't I just get an order from you for adjustable lower sheets? :lol:

I'm thrilled to hear that the 25mm belt drive is working well for you. I was particularly interested in the "instant response" you mentioned. A properly tensioned traction belt connected to a powerful electric motor should snap your head back when you nail it. If it doesn't there is slop in the driveline or some other problem. It may just be that you don't feel like you have to baby the wimpy skinny belt any longer.

You're going to need better batteries. :D
 
really bored, buried in snow and ice, Does 50% of an extreme backbend times 2 equal 100% extreme backbend or just twice the idler drag?
 

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If you have a situation where the center to center points of the pulley are fixed and can't be moved, like on the cam belts for an engine, then an idler tensioner makes sense. If you have the option of changing the center to center distance and avoiding the idler that's a better option.

For any kind of normal use a 25mm wide GT belt drive should be plenty for this motor. If I wanted to further increase the grip I might have a couple of ball bearing idlers just bringing the belt angle in a bit to engage still more driver pulley teeth. You will lose some power to drag but if we're talking insane amounts of power that won't matter. For a typical 1kW-2kW setup the GT belt drive without idlers should be plenty stout.

I nutted up and wired the money for 100 small block motors yesterday. I have a trickle of motors coming in off of TaoBao now (NOT through Mister Tao!) and should have the 100 motors within 30 days. I'll be working with my machinist this weekend to build the production jigs for the jackshafts. That's all that's left. I'm also going to contact Lyen and try to work out plug and play controller options that will let people unlock all of the potential in these amazing little motors.

25mm GT drives and all parts except for the jackshaft are shipping now.
 
hi lightningrod

i would be interested in some photos of all the parts, wih are allready finished, is that possible?

do you actually still plan or build a chain reduction type or stick with the 25 mm belt

gernot
 
notger said:
hi lightningrod

i would be interested in some photos of all the parts, wih are allready finished, is that possible?

do you actually still plan or build a chain reduction type or stick with the 25 mm belt

gernot

Here is a nice shot that skyungjae sent me of his bike with my upper and lower sheets and 25mm belt drive installed. I keep meaning to do some product shots of everything assembled but I've just been too busy. My web site is also way out of date. Sorry, I need three of me.

25mmBeltDrive.jpg


Thanks for sending me the photos John. I hope I'm not stealing your thunder by posting one.

I was thinking about a chain primary as a backup in case the belt didn't perform as well as hoped. At this point the belt is looking pretty great so I'm not focused on a chain drive right now. Jackshaft, primary enclosure, and the complete kit is at the top of my list this month.
 
LightningRods said:
Thanks for sending me the photos John. I hope I'm not stealing your thunder by posting one.

It's all good. 8)

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46164&p=856631#p856631

I may have mentioned it before, but one of the great things about your set up is the reduction in noise. The primary side is even quieter, but without the lower sheets I was getting a little bit of chain noise from the slack in the secondary chain. That wasn't even that bad, because it still sounded less like an e-bike w/ the upper sheets. It's rather helpful on the multi-use trails I'm always on. There are quite a few horses and dog walkers I'm passing by.
 
I had three goals when I set out to design the upgrades for the primary drive on the GNG: (1) Stop premature belt wear and breaking (2) Stop belt skipping and power loss and (3) Make the primary drive as stealthy and quiet as possible. I'm really happy to report that it seems that I've achieved all three of those goals.

I spent the weekend working on the scratch built jackshaft and have everything worked out except for the lock rings. The drawings for those go into the laser shop tomorrow. Everything is looking great! We should be only days away from finished scratch built kits. Production on my 100 motors has started at the factory.
 
Hi,

first time poster looong time reader
I am going for my first build and am trying to decide on my components

Live in hilly region, would like to use GNG for dual purpose, hilly commute and have some fun on trails (nothing hard core)

As concerning commute, what Wh/Km (Wh/mi) can I expect being easy on throttle going 20mph on flat

What is better for efficiency : 48V at 15A vs 72V at 10A (or for trails: 48V at 30A vs 72V at 20A)

For battery am thinking of Lifepo4 Headways (have fear from Lipo) but not decided yet on voltage and Ah
Please comment
Thnx, Alen
 
LightningRods said:
I had three goals when I set out to design the upgrades for the primary drive on the GNG: (1) Stop premature belt wear and breaking (2) Stop belt skipping and power loss and (3) Make the primary drive as stealthy and quiet as possible. I'm really happy to report that it seems that I've achieved all three of those goals.

I spent the weekend working on the scratch built jackshaft and have everything worked out except for the lock rings. The drawings for those go into the laser shop tomorrow. Everything is looking great! We should be only days away from finished scratch built kits. Production on my 100 motors has started at the factory.

Still waiting... :p
 
If someone is searching for a big block GNG style motor, this seems to be a good solution (just received and mesured)
http://e-bike-diffusion.com/index.php?module=produit&prd_id=509&url_retour=http%253A%252F%252Fe-bike-diffusion.com%253A80%252Findex.php%253Fmodule%253Dcategorie%2526code_cat%253D24%2526page_start_num%253D1

Has 50mm long x 80mm diameter rotor, small lams (quite rusted on mine...) big phases to boot and 120mm inner case diameter
1899895_10152248703114617_2130819906_n.jpg


150€ shipped via air mail is not bad at all!
 
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