Greentime controllers

[dnmun]

you did not say in your post that it was sensorless. we thought it was sensored. but you still would need the correct order for the phase wires i would think. but i never ever used a sensorless so i don't know.

i never did understand why it was sent from china and arrived at your place but was sent back to china. usually with china post it gets stuck in china.

 

[ian.mich]

I reiterate, do not buy controllers from greentime other than the 18FET 3077/4410/4110

 

[EdwardNY]

I reiterate, do not buy controllers from greentime other than the 18FET 3077/4410/4110

If you intend to run around 18s or around 72 volts max, then the 15fet 4410 was a very good controller. I ran this controller hard off road all the time and the only time I had a problem was when trying 24s.

But you should choose the 18fet over the 15fet if you have the choice.

 

[ian.mich]

I reiterate, do not buy controllers from greentime other than the 18FET 3077/4410/4110

If you intend to run around 18s or around 72 volts max, then the 15fet 4410 was a very good controller. I ran this controller hard off road all the time and the only time I had a problem was when trying 24s.

But you should choose the 18fet over the 15fet if you have the choice.

Purely for the lack of sensorless so its never a guess, the 18fet is worth it.

 

[John in CR]

I reiterate, do not buy controllers from greentime other than the 18FET 3077/4410/4110

If you intend to run around 18s or around 72 volts max, then the 15fet 4410 was a very good controller. I ran this controller hard off road all the time and the only time I had a problem was when trying 24s.

But you should choose the 18fet over the 15fet if you have the choice.

Purely for the lack of sensorless so its never a guess, the 18fet is worth it.

Just operator error. All of mine work fine. My only issue has ever been the proper setting of LVC and its affect on regen cutoff. I like the 18's, but they have no regen. The 18's plug braking is nice and goes down to zero, just use it intermittently and not from very high speed. Sensorless on the others works, but it sucks except at very low power.

The sensorless does make figuring out wiring easier though. Connect without the halls and if it spins backward, then swap 2 phases for forward. Then find the right combo of halls of the 6 possible.

The only common problem I see is guys trying to run 24s, 100V off the charger. Failure is all but guaranteed. Methods and Lyen and those guys spend a lot on caps and stuff to make controllers tolerate voltage right at the threshold of component limits better, but it's still a mistake, because reliability suffers. Follow the advice of highly experienced in electronics guys like Jeremy Harris and BigMoose and others, and stay the hell away from 100V with electronics that have components with 100V limits. Get a faster motor is you think you must have 24s instead of 22s, and don't pay attention to those who have gotten away with running near 100V, because their success is only anecdotal evidence. Failures prove controllers are much more prone to failure operating near 100V, especially these Greentimes. Why do you think they are called 72V controllers? OTOH, when run at proper voltage and not pushed to far with aggressive shunt mods, and allowed good air flow, then I've found these Greentime controllers extremely durable.....If they were just programmable. Some of you hacker types need to get us WUXI board program software.

John

 

[whatever]

Success! My previous post on the 6fet greentime controller about which wires to connect to get 24v/36v or 48v.
I'll post the pic again below:

[img][/img]

connection 2: gives 24v lvc
connection 3: gives 36v lvc
connection 1: is not 24v or 36v, not supposed to be connected that way, but it might give a different lvc, haven't tested to see if it gives a higher lvc.
default lvc with no connections is 48v
One note: the large resistor that drops voltage to circuit board is for 48v default, should change that resistor to suit new lvc.
The unused hole in pic above might also be useful if going for higher voltages

regarding running this controller with cyclone geared motor: it works very very nicely as sensorless controller, meaning its easy to bypass cyclone internal controller,
can remove cyclone controller and just run off the three thick phase wires.
The other very nice thing about this controller is in sensorless mode it will start the motor from zero rpm. Means no issues with freewheel on cyclone motors.

Its looking like the 6fet are very good controllers. I ran a 24v 180watt cyclone motor on 48v to max rpm, no hickups in sensorless mode at high rpm.
Have to disagree with Ian Mich whose advice was not to buy these. Looks good to me!

 

[kentlim26]

I am happy that more people are using, greentime for cyclone. is a very good quick recovery from a surprise fail . i believe it will work for gng motors too. 24v, 6 or 7 lipos cells 20 amps will run bike far. i feel the green time controller is reasonable.

 

[EdwardNY]

For a 45 Amp 15 fet greentime controller, can anyone guess what the Battery amps and Phase amps are set to?

I am using a Lyen 18 fet controller at default settings which I believe are 30 amps battery and 80 amps phase. I notice that that the acceleration seems to be higher on the Lyen controller at 30 amps, but the top speed is slower by 10MPH, I can only hit about 30MPH. The greentime controller I get 40MPH.

 

[methods]

Tangential intersecting post

If there were an add-on module available for the CA that would read your phase current (instead of your battery current, using a non-contact hall effect sensor) and it was $50 would you buy it and answer your own question?

It seems like it would be nice to be able to measure both DC current and Phase current but I suspect that is only true for nerds.... i.e. most people would not be interested.

Anyhow - like I always say EVERY ebike needs a CA. With that you could answer at least half of your question. Am I the only one that has an anxiety attack riding an ebike without instrumentation? That would be like driving a car with no gas gauge, no speedometer, no tachometer, no ability to keep track of miles, no readout of MPG, etc. Seems like an obvious choice - but lots of people choose not to buy one. Is it budget?

-methods

 

[hjns]

If there were an add-on module available for the CA that would read your phase current (instead of your battery current, using a non-contact hall effect sensor) and it was $50 would you buy it and answer your own question?

It seems like it would be nice to be able to measure both DC current and Phase current but I suspect that is only true for nerds.... i.e. most people would not be interested.
-methods

Hi Methods,

I would buy it, regardless of the controller. Build one for me - the true nerd that I am - and I will post the results. I may even buy a Greentime controller just to blow it up at 20S 150A.

 

[crossbreak]

I'd like to use regen on my 15Fet controller, sadly it has no brake-input can someone plz take a picture where i must wire it and post it? best would be a pic with all connectors and desciption

BTW, I sell housings for the 24 Fet that is only 175x90x45mm, that's even smaller than an 18Fet, just PM me it's quite cost effective

I would buy it, regardless of the controller. Build one for me - the true nerd that I am - and I will post the results. I may even buy a Greentime controller just to blow it up at 20S 150A.

I try to build something like this, it will be included in my LCD-bluetooth-ebike-odo-tacho, which combines both CA and Speedict in one unit, but will be open source. ATM
it can only limit battery current and max speed, but I will proceed.

BTW I ordered one 24 Fet with 1:1.3 battery to phase current limit, just to see if Leo really can do this. I'll have it on my test bench soo I hope so I can see what ratio it actually does. Leo always insisted to me that he can not setup battery to phase current ratio, I talked and talked to him till he said that he does special setup for me

 

[johnjcbs]

Does anyone know the maximum eRPM on the Greentime controllers?

 

[crossbreak]

max e-rpm is 40.000, Greentime controllers do not loose sync at 40.000e-rpm if no-load e-rpm is not way too high, they just dont accelerate further. If no load RPM is much too high like 75.000 e-rpm, the greentime controller will shut down (at ~50.000e-rpm if it overshoots) the turnigy 80-100 KV130 is the only RC outrunner that worked for me with 12s lipo and stock winding, it has about 6800rpm no-load at 12s lipo fully charged. It stops accelerating at 5700 on a greentime, which is still well usable IMO.

 

[crossbreak]

24Fet in a smaller housing. It's 90x50x175mm now

Comparison with 6-Fet, 12Fet and 15Fet, and of course with the old housing

 

[John in CR]

The thick AL and big cooling fins make their housings rock. I have some of their 36 fet housing and I've never gotten one even warm. Every other controller I've used get uncomfortably warm/hot with my higher Kv lower inductance hubbies.

We just need someone to hack us a program and these controllers will rule the roost compared to the XieChang/Infineon controllers.

 

[crossbreak]

The thick AL and big cooling fins make their housings...

HEAVY! And completely senseless. I like my new housing, still doent get hot at 90amps But I agree, we at least need a schematic and I want variable regen!

I wonder if the 36Fet suits the cromotor?

 

[johnjcbs]

max e-rpm is 40.000, Greentime controllers do not loose sync at 40.000e-rpm if no-load e-rpm is not way too high, they just dont accelerate further. If no load RPM is much too high like 75.000 e-rpm, the greentime controller will shut down (at ~50.000e-rpm if it overshoots) the turnigy 80-100 KV130 is the only RC outrunner that worked for me with 12s lipo and stock winding, it has about 6800rpm no-load at 12s lipo fully charged. It stops accelerating at 5700 on a greentime, which is still well usable IMO.

Do all the versions use the same microprocessor?

 

[eugen]

so far i can see yes all use the same chip

 

[eugen]

The thick AL and big cooling fins make their housings...

HEAVY! And completely senseless. I like my new housing, still doent get hot at 90amps But I agree, we at least need a schematic and I want variable regen!

I wonder if the 36Fet suits the cromotor?

i was drive cro motor on 12 fets as well as on 18 fets and 24 fets so why not on 36 :lol:

 

[eugen]

found programming software

now small problem
if is anyone who can recompile program change language (English of course) and compile program again??
and here cannot upload it is too big (about 35Mb)
http://www.xcmmcu.com/salea.asp
but if is someone interested can send by email

 

[crossbreak]

awesome, that's what we've waited for so long.. how did you find that???

 

[eugen]

hours on internet
now hope someone can translate this

 

[crossbreak]

hope so too. BTW, 28MB of th 35 MB are used by "DotNetFrameWork2_0" so this wouldnt be necessarily uploaded.

I tried the "downloader"- what ever it does, it tells somethings going wrong. Maybe we can just use google translate, there are not so many buttons to press for programming a controller... phase/bat current limit, block time, LVC, HVC and Regen level is all we want to have control of in the end.

OK, we have the software... had to install WinXP to get it running.... now

where shall I connect my FTDI serial USB converter?? Can't find any solder spots for it in the "documentation"

 

[eugen]

hm
i install that on windows 7 and its working. Dont try to connect nothing because not understand hieroglyphs.
on cpu pin39 should be TXD and pin 38 RXD Dont know if should be some other signal for enable disable flashing

print screen of program

 

[zombiess]

I just tried to Hex Edit it to see if the text can be changed like I have done on the Xie Chang software (took me days to translate everything in the one version I modded for the EB2xx controllers), looks like it's not going to work. It will have to be decompiled in some manner to change the text... bummer. Hopefully someone will get this software figured out.