Grin - Outrider mini front hub quick review

OP or russell,
Curious,
On my Mxus(and the ones I've seen), all the spokes are laced as "ïnners"(all spoke heads outside the hub flange)so the spokes don't foul the brake calipers.
Did you(or are you intending to) lace the wheel this way?
 
The Outrider flange distance/diameter is 43/117mm vs 50/120mm for the MXUS which may allow it to be laced conventionally and maybe have just enough clearance for a caliper and 160mm rotor. Mine won't be arriving for some time however since the vendor has 45 days to get it to me.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/OR01B2-36V-260rpm-Front-Motor-DC-No-Hall-Brushless-with-6-pin-Water-proof-wire-cable/1107806248.html

-R
 
Russell said:
What length did you use?

I have an Outrider on order from China, a black sensorless model, that I plan to also lace in a Mavic A119.

-R

I used the value I got from the spoke length calculator on ebikes.ca.

It's 260.5mm for a 2 cross pattern. Perfect fit.
 
motomech said:
OP or russell,
Curious,
On my Mxus(and the ones I've seen), all the spokes are laced as "ïnners"(all spoke heads outside the hub flange)so the spokes don't foul the brake calipers.
Did you(or are you intending to) lace the wheel this way?

I laced mine with using an alternating pattern. I do not have disk brakes though so clearance was not an issue.
 
A 160mm disc brake is going to give you clearance problems with most disc brake calipers unfortunately. I had to do a significant amount of digging in my parts bin to find one that worked!

A 180mm rotor or larger should be okay.
 
Great review!
I am looking really hard at this exact kit for a Townie 7D. Do you think it would be a good choice with my body weight being 210lbs?
Also, do you know the dimensions of the C3615 controller? I'm thinking about going with the 20 amp controller if they are the same physical size.

Thanks
 
I am about 190lbs and it moves me well.
If you have good-sized hills to climb, like a typical small geared hub, it will drop speed significantly on the climb. It's not a high power motor, but it is light :)
 
52piockup said:
Great review!
I am looking really hard at this exact kit for a Townie 7D. Do you think it would be a good choice with my body weight being 210lbs?
Also, do you know the dimensions of the C3615 controller? I'm thinking about going with the 20 amp controller if they are the same physical size.

Thanks

If you are planning on going up a lot of steep hills, running the motor at 48V+ and using a higher power controller 20A+, you might be pushing your luck with outputs of 1000W+

On my setup (12S Lipo / 44.4V) with the small controller (15A), I'm getting a maximum of 600-650W output which seems to be fine for the motor (so far at least).

I'm quite sure the 3615 controller is smaller than the 20A. Mine is about 4 inches long, 2.5 inches wide an 1 inch think. I think the 20A is more like 6 inches long, but it's been a while since I saw one.

If you are going to run at 36V, the 20A controller would probably be a good idea to give you more hill climbing power and acceleration while still maintaining a safe power output.

At 48V, you could still use the 20A controller and limit its max current using the cycle analyst.

The slightly smaller wheel diameter (26") of your bike will also help make things a bit easier for the motor.
 
Thanks guys
I was going to go 12s turnigy because I have some on hand for r/c use.
This is my first go at an ebike. I am actually building this for my wife which weighs considerably less than I do but I would like to be able to use it as well.
I need to find the manual for the cycle analyst to see what it's capabilities are, I was unaware it could limit current
 
I don't think you need to worry about 12S\20A on that motor, especially w/ a liteweight rider.
I ran 12S/22 Amp on a MXUS(very simular motor)for a couple of years, and I weigh #250..
 
You're talking about a smaller motor.

I get my 20mph motor hot on 36v and 19A whenever a hill comes up.
I can run 120% on flat land and get 25mph out of it, sure. But it starts gaining heat too, just not at as bad of a rate.

The MXUS motor would be better to run on 12S because it runs something like 17-18mph on 36v for starters... so the added voltage doesn't kick it's speed up too far.

If you have to run 12S, just keep the amps low. Like 17A or lower..
 
If all else fails, a hand on the motor after a ride will tell you more than i can. :)
 
Well, I guess with Amps and mini-motors, it's all about the hills. Right now, I'm running a S12S sine-wave @ 11S on a tiny Q100 CST, normally way too much power. But i't is flat here in the desert basin. And the sine-wave is very soft start.

Really, for the pickup52's S.O. riding an Ebike, maybe the LVC is more important than limiting current. One can do that with a C.A., but there might be a good option for those who don't need all the functions the C.A. provides.
I have been looking for a good fool-proof controller LVC for 12S for a long time and I think I have finally found one for a 2WD trail bike I'm building:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9-Mosfets-E-Bike-Motor-Controller-with-LED-meter-/321479310604

It's a elifebike 9-FET, 17 AMPs and a LVC of 42V. It's nice that it can be bought on Ebay, the shipping was only $9.
I plan to use this one on the frt. MXUS and it's 19A version on an original Ezee rear. Both on 12S.
Hope to test drive this afternoon.

SAM_1010.jpg

they are a little large compared to the 6_FET's I usually use.

Oops, sorry for the thread Hijack :roll:
but these should be good low-cost controller options for the Outrider.
 
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